Camera purchase advice requested

[Mick_Marsh]

My little Fuji happy snap $99 K-mart special is failing. I need to replace it. I found it difficult to use anyway. I always had trouble with the autofocus.
I thought, with the sales on at the moment, it might be a good time to buy one.
I'm after a Nikon DSLR. I want one that will take photos of the bug eating my olive trees and that Landrover sitting in the far end of the paddock. I don't mind if I have to change lenses to do it.
Any recommendations and why?

Oh, and I want the ability to focus manually.

[Land Rover Widow]

Do you have a budget?

I have the D90 but I am not sure it's still available

[superquag]

I think his budget is in excess of $99....:p

Understand your feelings, I've chucked a FUJI mini-SLR-ish looking thing...same reasons.

Being facetious, I'd suggest a raid on Cash Convertors, pick up an old-fashioned FILM SLR with additional lenses to suit your needs... use slide film...scan the results into your desktop, - and you're back with everyone else in the digital enviroment.

Much slower, but you really do think & plan before each button-push !!!:eek:

[Sleepy]

What's your budget Mick?

I spent about 2 grand on my D90 and very happy with it.
There are a lot of cameras in between that take good shots though. I bought (sorry Santa brought) one of these for my daughter.

Nikon Coolpix L120 14MP Digital Still Camera (Black) | Digital Cameras, Digital Still Cameras : JB HI-FI (http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/digital-cameras/digital-compact/nikon-coolpix-l120-14mp-digital-still-camera-black/649068)

Takes a very respectable photo too. 21x optical will get the other end of the paddock and macro option will get your bugs.:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

I think his budget is in excess of $99....:p

Understand your feelings, I've chucked a FUJI mini-SLR-ish looking thing...same reasons.

Being facetious, I'd suggest a raid on Cash Convertors, pick up an old-fashioned FILM SLR with additional lenses to suit your needs... use slide film...scan the results into your desktop, - and you're back with everyone else in the digital enviroment.

Much slower, but you really do think & plan before each button-push !!!:eek:
I know what you mean. I have a Bronica ETRS medium format. It takes beautiful photographs. Fairly easy to use as well. There is one thing I am trying to work out how to use on it, the time exposure using a shutter release cable. The shutter doesn't close when I release the cable.
I also have a couple of Yashica FX-D's which are 35mm SLR's. I hahe a motor drive and several lenses for them. I don't use them much anymore as I love the Bronica.

This new camera will be for instant gratification. I can take photo's of Landrovers, Mercs and other interesting vehicles or things from a distance or really close up and share them with you lot that night.

[Mick_Marsh]

What's your budget Mick?

I spent about 2 grand on my D90 and very happy with it.
There are a lot of cameras in between that take good shots though. I bought (sorry Santa brought) one of these for my daughter.

Nikon Coolpix L120 14MP Digital Still Camera (Black) | Digital Cameras, Digital Still Cameras : JB HI-FI (http://www.jbhifionline.com.au/digital-cameras/digital-compact/nikon-coolpix-l120-14mp-digital-still-camera-black/649068)

Takes a very repectable photo too. 21x optical will get the other end of the paddock and macro option will get your bugs.:angel:
Budget! Budget?
When you collect old Mercs and 101's, that word very quickly becomes meaningless.

$2k sounds ok. I'm after quality hence I'm looking at Nikon.
I'm also looking at having perhaps two or three lenses. I remember using a 500mm mirror lens on a Nikon F3 (not mine) many years ago and being suitably impressed.

[Land Rover Widow]

2k...hmm ok then maybe this
Nikon D5100 16.2mp DSLR 'twin"VR"Kit" - Digital Cameras - JB Hi-Fi - Smashing Prices! (http://www.jbhifi.com.au/photo/digital-cameras/nikon/d5100-16-2mp-dslr-twin-vr-kit-sku-68720/)

and a 50mm 1.4d which here you can get at a camera store for about $450...a 1.4G is closer to $900, a 50mm 1.8 is about $200 I think?

Depends on if you want kit lenses or are happy to just get a body and one maybe two lenses? The other options would be the D7000 or a D3100 I guess.

[Mick_Marsh]

2k...hmm ok then maybe this
Nikon D5100 16.2mp DSLR 'twin"VR"Kit" - Digital Cameras - JB Hi-Fi - Smashing Prices! (http://www.jbhifi.com.au/photo/digital-cameras/nikon/d5100-16-2mp-dslr-twin-vr-kit-sku-68720/)

and a 50mm 1.4d which here you can get at a camera store for about $450...a 1.4G is closer to $900, a 50mm 1.8 is about $200 I think?

Depends on if you want kit lenses or are happy to just get a body and one maybe two lenses? The other options would be the D7000 or a D3100 I guess.
Thanks Sarah,
VR (vibration reduction) sounds like a good feature to have. Anyone know if it works?
18-55mm and 55-300mm sounds good.
I think I'll be popping off to JB tomorrow. Use that $30 gift card I got for christmas.

[lewy]

no next to zilch about camera's,but if i did i think these are cheap for canon.
http://www.kogan.com.au/shop/nikon-d5100-kit-single-lens-vr-18-55mm/

[Sleepy]

This is what I got. Went for the 18 - 200 lens.

Nikon D90 + 18-200mm VR | Nikon Digital SLR Cameras | Ted's Camera Stores - Ted's Cameras (http://www.teds.com.au/nikon-d90-18-200mm-vr-ii-zoom-kit)

(Ted's aren't cheap, so you'll get it for less if you shop around)

Yes the VR seems to work. (Either that or I am super steady;))

Of course the Nikon/Canon argument may well appear. It's a bit like Holden/Ford argument. Just depends what you like.

The D90 is due to be replaced, (or perhaps already has?) but still a great camera and lots of after market bits available.

[dmdigital]

Mick for $2k in Nikon I'd seriously look at the D7000. It is basically the replacement of the D90 but in terms of ability is presently a bit above the current D300s but just lacks a few higher end features and frame rates. IQ is fantastic as is the dynamic range. If you want to spend moore and get even higher end, I'd wait for the D800 and D4 to be released.

The other one to consider is the Nikon 1 V1. Again very excellent IQ and a auto-focus system that is currently second to none. As you are starting out with Nikon the CX lens mount on the Nikon 1 would be less of an issue.

[p38arover]

Happy snaps? A DSLR-like Fuji Finepix with 10:1 zoom. In some applications, my FinePix S500 takes better shots than my Pentax DSLRs.

Here's an example:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/camera-corner/41990d1325056576-camera-purchase-advice-requested-cb750_right_engine_w.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/camera-corner/41989d1325056548-camera-purchase-advice-requested-cb750keyw.jpg

I wonder if the FX-D lenses will fit any recent DSLR bodies. Does yours have the Carl Zeiss lenses?

[Mick_Marsh]

Canon vs Nikon, no argument there. As per my first post, I'm buying a Nikon, no if's, no but's. Canon are good. A friend has a good Canon camera. I'm buying a Nikon.
I want it now. I'm on holiday and would like to take photographs of a Centurion I passed.
Bear in mind this will be for a bit better than happy snaps. I'll still be using the Bronica.

Yes, the FX-D's have Carl Zeiss lenses.
The Fuji camera I have wouldn't take photo's like those.

[superquag]

...... There is one thing I am trying to work out how to use on it, the time exposure using a shutter release cable. The shutter doesn't close when I release the cable.

Thats because you've got to get intimate with the lens-barrel...:eek:

Here's a link that explains it all. -

http://www.cameramanuals.org/prof_pdf/bronica_etrc-1.pdf

Yours is an electronic shutter, fixed to work at 1/500 sec if the battery is dead or not there, and the T or "Time" is still a toggle-function of sorts. - Like on my Graflex... press to fire, press again to close.
Yes, I've got one of those...:D

Cheers,

James.

[Chucaro]

I am long time user of Nikon cameras, film and digital.
My last 2 bodies are D200 and now the awesome D300s.
I would suggest to you the following kit.

Low light and portraits: Nikon 50mm f 1/4
Landscaping: Tokina 14-24 f/4
General purpose: the fantastic value for money Nikon 70-300VR
All the fotos in my page are taken with these lens.
Add to that a good quality tripod like the Manfrotto CF models and you are set.
Stay away from kit lens, the are not good.
Another great body is the Nikon D700 which is full frame.

[incisor]

i love my tokina 11-16 f/2.8, is great for landscape and for taking pics of vehicles, esp interiors and engine bays ...

and a tamron 90mm for the macro pics of bugs and vehicle bits..

the 18-105 kit lens may not be a professional lens but it is quite a capable lens sitting on a nikon d90 or better, esp for an amateur user. it is also a good general purpose lens.

Nikon D90 Kit AF-S 18-105mm VR Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=1793)

Tokina AT-X 116 Pro DX 11-16mm f2.8 Lenses (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=2276)

Tamron SP AF90mm F/2.8 Di Macro 1:1 Lenses (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=390)

samples of pics

Tokina 11-16 (http://www.flickr.com/groups/638028@N25/)

Nikon D90 (http://www.flickr.com/groups/nikond90club/)

Tamron 90mm lens (http://www.flickr.com/groups/tamron_90mm_macro/)

Nikon D90 with 18-105 kit lens (http://www.flickr.com/groups/d9018105vr/)

[Mick_Marsh]

Well guys, this is what went down.
I went to JB Colonades. They didn't have any of the D5100 two lens kits but told us JB Marion had four in stock, so we went there. JB Marion did suggest I buy the D7000 with a 18-105mm lens but I did want 300mm plus.

After stating "I would like to purchase A Nikon D5100", the JB Marion sales rep said:
JB "We haven't had those in stock for months, there are none available."
me "You have them available on line."
JB "Well, buy one from us on line."
me "Why would I buy from you guys on line when I can get one half price from another company on line?"
JB "You can come into a store and buy one from us then."
me "You have none in stock."

I remember buying audio stuff from JB himself when the only store was in Centre Way, East Keilor long before they were franchised. If they didn't have what you wanted, they made sure you left with something better for a good price.

Continuing my JB experience, JB let me walk out the door and into the Teds Camera store next door. Not a good marketing decision. Teds had the D7000 for $100 less than JB (makes JB's "Lowest Prices" motto nothing but spin). Also, in all my previous dealings with Teds, they have not been the cheapest, and I wouldn't think that has changed.

I'm going to mention the Teds sales rep here because she was such a pleasure to deal with and she deserves a pay rise.
I asked Laura "I'd like a Nikon D5100 with two lenses."
Laura: "We don't have a D5100 but we can do the D7000 as a two lens deal."
me: "How much?"
Laura: "$1999.90"
me: (thinks: "that's only $200 more than the single lens D7000 from JB") "I'll have one of those then please."
Laura then explained a few things about DSLR ownership (which went in one ear and out the other) and made sure I had a few filters and other accessories. It's good to see a sales person who not only wanted to make sure the customer was happy but also make sure the customer didn't leave without buying something.

So, I now have a Nikon D7000 with a 18-105mm f1/3.5-5.6 lens and a 55-300mm f1/4.5-5.6 lens and I am as pleased as Punch.

Thank you all for all you advice.

[Mick_Marsh]

Thats because you've got to get intimate with the lens-barrel...:eek:

Here's a link that explains it all. -

http://www.cameramanuals.org/prof_pdf/bronica_etrc-1.pdf

Yours is an electronic shutter, fixed to work at 1/500 sec if the battery is dead or not there, and the T or "Time" is still a toggle-function of sorts. - Like on my Graflex... press to fire, press again to close.
Yes, I've got one of those...:D

Cheers,

James.
I have a manual. Can't find the "press to fire and press to close" bit in it. I'll give it a go. I love doing timed exposures at night.
Thanks for the tip James.

[Sleepy]

Don't forget.....:rulez:

It didn't happen without pictures!
(Good luck getting a photo of your camera! :lol2:)

[dmdigital]

I think you will be very pleased with the D7000. I'd be getting the 70-300 over the 55-300 kit lens, but there's always another day for bother toy :) As I said earlier this camera really is in some ways superior to the D300s which is itself a fantastic camera.

Enjoy and welcome to the Nikon club :BigThumb:

[superquag]

I have a manual. Can't find the "press to fire and press to close" bit in it. I'll give it a go. I love doing timed exposures at night.
Thanks for the tip James.

I've sent you up the garden path...

You need to operate it from the LENS, near the front. - A little lever that has a set-screw in it (to prevent inadverdant use) which 'exposes' a T or A .

Basically, undo the screw to free the lever, Cock the shutter, move lever so as to expose the "T".

Open shutter with the shutter release (as normal) - will stay open......

To close the shutter, slide the lever across to its normal ( shows "A" ) position.

The above taken from that link I posted. Section 6 Page 14. :-))

Many years ago I owned a Bronica S2A.. Fantastic beast, not so great for daylight flash-synch... 1/40 sec. :eek: Mirror and shutter blinds etc were so heavy that you could really feel it jump in your hands.

Sounds like you've got Nice Toy... :p - I'd be inclined to drop a note to the JB management, telling them how happy you are with the service.....:twisted:

James

[Mick_Marsh]

Don't forget.....:rulez:

It didn't happen without pictures!
(Good luck getting a photo of your camera! :lol2:)
There ya go Sleeps.
Taken with the old camera.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42050&stc=1&d=1325150426

[Mick_Marsh]

I've sent you up the garden path...

You need to operate it from the LENS, near the front. - A little lever that has a set-screw in it (to prevent inadverdant use) which 'exposes' a T or A .

Basically, undo the screw to free the lever, Cock the shutter, move lever so as to expose the "T".

Open shutter with the shutter release (as normal) - will stay open......

To close the shutter, slide the lever across to its normal ( shows "A" ) position.

The above taken from that link I posted. Section 6 Page 14. :-))

Many years ago I owned a Bronica S2A.. Fantastic beast, not so great for daylight flash-synch... 1/40 sec. :eek: Mirror and shutter blinds etc were so heavy that you could really feel it jump in your hands.

Yep. That's what I've been doing. I still don't like touching the camera though when I'm taking a photo.


Sounds like you've got Nice Toy... :p - I'd be inclined to drop a note to the JB management, telling them how happy you are with the service.....:twisted:
No point. They're not interested. A couple of years ago They had eeepc's advertised for $316. I waltzed in to JB Highpoint West.
me: "I'll pay $300 for one of those PC's because that's how much they are elsewhere."
JB: "They're $316"
me: "I'll go and buy one elsewhere then."
JB: "We're the cheapest."
So I walked back to the car passing Teds Camera store.
me: "How much for the eeepc?"
Teds: "$298"
me: "I'll have it."
I then continued to the car and drove home.
Follow up email remains unanswered.

As I said before, when JB owned it, they would deal rather than let you out the door without a sale.
Don't get me wrong. I still shop at JB. Before christmas I spent over $300 on DVD's. They have a great range of DVD's and CD's including some interesting ones.

[Chucaro]

Mick, that foto is a typical example why a good tripod is needed :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Mick, that foto is a typical example why a good tripod is needed :D
Already got a tripod. Manfrotto. Had it for years. Bought it in the early to mid eighties. It is well travelled.
Sometimes it's not convenient to carry a tripod.

[300+]

I went with the D7000 with the 18-105 as well. I'm glad I did as the extra length over my other choice of a 17-55 or so is well worth it. The lens is pretty sharp too. You should be happy with it.

I can't believe how low noise it is. I wanted to take some high noise pictures of decayed signs and had to go to 25,600 to get the effect I wanted.

I was at the zoo the other day and needed to use ISO 2000 to get a high shutter speed and I can't see the noise unless I look really closely. Spectacular!


Cheers, Steve

[d2dave]

Stay away from kit lens, the are not good.


Have been following this thread as I am contemplating a DSLR my self.
I have two questions.
What is meant by kit lens and what does VR stand for?

Dave.

[Mick_Marsh]

Have been following this thread as I am contemplating a DSLR my self.
I have two questions.
What is meant by kit lens and what does VR stand for?

Dave.
The kit lens is the lens that is sold with the camera as part of the kit. The default supplied lens.
VR is Vibration Reduction.

[300+]

Kit lens is one which comes with the camera in a single box. They are sold as a single lens kit where you get one lens and a twin lens kit where you get two. Luckily I've never seen a twin lens kit where you get two lenses the same...

Kit lenses can be low end, but can also be quite good. For example, the Nikon D7000 is available with three different kit lenses which cost (lens only) $200, $550 and $900 respectively.

Whilst some people make disparaging comments about kit lenses, they can be very good. Particularly if you get the $900 lens.

VR is vibration reduction in Nikon speak or image stabilisation (IS) in Canon speak. It allows you to handhold the camera at slower shutter speeds than would otherwise be possible. It isn't perfect, but I use it quite a lot.

Cheers, Steve

[slug_burner]

Kit lens is one sold as a kit with a camera. Usually a kit lens is a low end lens that would not sell on it's own and is more or less thrown in with the camera as they are of little cost $100-$200 should cover these lenses.

VR is the acronym for the "Vibration Reduction" system that is used by Nikon. Canon uses a term "Image Stabilisation" with the acronym IS. Basically a system that allows for you to hand hold the camera/lens to take photos at one or two f stops worth of shutter speed lower than would normally be recommended. Usually a rule of thumb is used that you should use a shutter speed of one on the focal length of the lens in use i.e., for 300 mm lens you would use 1/300 sec shutter speed which may not be a speed available depending on the camera so you would use 1/500 on the conservative side or 1/250. With a 300 mm VR lens you could possibly use a 1/60 or 1/125 shetter speed. This would apply for a stationary subject and would overcome camera shake, if you have a fast moving subject that you want to freeze on your photo you will have to select a shutter speed suited to the speed the subject moves across the film plane in order to freeze regardless of VR or IR assistance.

I'll hand over to the professionals for more detail.

[Chucaro]

The quality of the kit lens is very poor and 90% of the people that starting photography soon will get a better lens.
A Nikon D7000 body cost $ 1189 and you can get 2 very good lens for $ 850 more so for about $ 2040 you finish with a much better set up than the kit lens that cost $ 1600 from the same supplier.

[Grumpy]

When I bought my D80 it came with 2 lens kit. I told the gent in Cameraland that didn't I did't want the cheap lenses . We came to a deal where a 18-200mm vr zoom replaced the two cheaper lenses. Later I bought the 70-300vr.For me the 18-200 is just right for my macro. It is not 1 to 1 however it suits me.
Unfortunately the time is approaching to think about a lighter camera.
At this stage i'm in a quandry as to which one. I want the length ,width and macro. May throw up my hands and say 'too hard'.:(

Tony :wheelchair:

[Mick_Marsh]

I've been playing with the new toy today. So many knobs and buttons. Apatuere priority. Shutter speed priority. I think I'll leave everything on auto.
Here is a photo I took with the old Fuji when it was working.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

And now with the new camera
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

They are completely different cameras. I think I'll enjoy this this new camera as much as I enjoy the Bronica (but for different reasons). I think I'll try a bit of timed night exposures with this one (I used to love doing these with the Yashicas).

[300+]

I've been playing with the new toy today. So many knobs and buttons. Apatuere priority. Shutter speed priority. I think I'll leave everything on auto.
Here is a photo I took with the old Fuji when it was working.


I usually leave it in program mode (P) and use the program shift feature (thumb wheel) to get the shutter/aperture I want.

It is an easy way of getting almost the same thing and it works in most situations. There are a few cases when Aperture priority, etc. will be mode appropriate, but much of my hand held shooting is now in P mode.

Cheers, Steve

[Chucaro]

Even if I use manual mode only in my cameras I would suggest to you to use aperture priority for landscaping and SS priority for wild life specially birds.
When you are using SS priority to get sharp images try to select a speed of 1/250 and adjust the ISO to get the correct exposure.
Also try to take the shots in nef format so you will have more information to correct any parameter in the image and also you will not loose information like it is lost in jpg.
It is very rewarding undertanding the camera and soon you will start use the manual mode.
When prepare image for the web convert the images to srgb because the monitors can not see the color palette of RGB.
Also if you like to have some feedback try to live the exif in the image or provide the information.
Image of 150 to 250 kb size are big enough to appreciate and give feed back.
Cheers

[DT-P38]

PLEASE IGNORE POST.... best I start reading last post before I put in a reply!


Hey Mick,

We have never had an unhappy moment from our Cannon DSLR ....

HooRoo, Dave

[Mick_Marsh]

Landscape? Wildlife? Birds? Are these types of cars?

I like taking photo's of cars. No surprises there I guess.
This photo was taken with the old Fuji when it worked.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42115&stc=1&d=1325314007

[NCF 110]

Buy a Nikon D2X , with less than 50,000 clicks for around a grand , you will not be disapointed .

[dmdigital]

Even if I use manual mode only in my cameras I would suggest to you to use aperture priority for landscaping and SS priority for wild life specially birds.
When you are using SS priority to get sharp images try to select a speed of 1/250 and adjust the ISO to get the correct exposure.
Also try to take the shots in nef format so you will have more information to correct any parameter in the image and also you will not loose information like it is lost in jpg.
It is very rewarding undertanding the camera and soon you will start use the manual mode.
When prepare image for the web convert the images to srgb because the monitors can not see the color palette of RGB.
Also if you like to have some feedback try to live the exif in the image or provide the information.
Image of 150 to 250 kb size are big enough to appreciate and give feed back.
Cheers
Just to add to Arthur's post. Get to know your camera's ISO limitations and factor in shooting manual with AutoISO set to a maximum of what is best with the D7000. I find I shoot manual+AutoISO on both D3s and X100 more often than A or S.

For example when shooting sports or wildlife I'll set the D3s to desired aperture and shutter speed and let the ISO go between 200 and 8000 as I know this results in little if no degradation in colour if the light is OK I'll even push it to 10000 and if I need to 12800. The D7000 hasn't got as good an ISO as the D3s but it currently is the second best in the Nikon lineup.

Also play around with Dynamic Range and White balance bracketing. This only works in JPEG mode but is worth understanding as it will also highlight the camera's abilities for what you can get out of RAW images.

[Mick_Marsh]

The D7000 has two SD card slots. It can be configured to save a photograph as RAW on one card and JPG on the other. I think this is what I'll do.
After reading the manual further, I've realised this camera is capable of way more than I expected. As I may have mentioned earlier, I think I'll get back into night time exposures which I really loved doing. I didn't think a digital could do timed exposures, but reading the manual, apparently this one can.

[Chucaro]

Mick, have a look this page: Nikon | Imaging Products | Digitutor | D7000 (http://www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d7000/)
And this page as well:

Guide to Nikon D7000 Movie Mode - YouTube

[superquag]

I've been playing with the new toy today. So many knobs and buttons. Apatuere priority. Shutter speed priority. I think I'll leave everything on auto.
Here is a photo I took with the old Fuji when it was working.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42109&stc=1&d=1325297110

And now with the new camera
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42110&stc=1&d=1325298499

They are completely different cameras. I think I'll enjoy this this new camera as much as I enjoy the Bronica (but for different reasons). I think I'll try a bit of timed night exposures with this one (I used to love doing these with the Yashicas).

THAT was one very sad Happy-Snappy ! - You've chosen well:D

Yashicas ?- 'NOT' Electro 35's by any chance? - We've got a pair of them, pity about the hassle of batteries....

It does'nt matter about having to touch the lens-barrel at the end of a TIME exposure, as the fraction-of-a-second camera shake is only a tiny % of the total time. Put your hand in front of the lens as you move the T lever to 'close'.;)

Auto ISO ? - Is'nt TECHNOLOGY wonderful ? - Just imagine being able to wish for - and receive - differant film speeds for every pic???

We had it back in the Olden Days, and it was called Push/pull-Processing. - Bit of a nuisance as the whole roll of film got the same treatment...


One of the advantages of the 5x4 GRAFLEX over the new-fangled 35mm cameras.....:p:p:p - :eek:

Rip Van James

[dmdigital]

The D7000 has two SD card slots. It can be configured to save a photograph as RAW on one card and JPG on the other. I think this is what I'll do.
After reading the manual further, I've realised this camera is capable of way more than I expected. As I may have mentioned earlier, I think I'll get back into night time exposures which I really loved doing. I didn't think a digital could do timed exposures, but reading the manual, apparently this one can.
I usually shoot the two CF cards in the D3s as RAW & JPEG/Video. Depending on what you are doing though it is handy to also have the overflow setting to give you two cards if you find yourself in a position where you can't change cards over.

The RAW & JPEG doesn't allow for the DR and WB bracketing, you have to shoot JPEG only for this to work as it's something that can be achieved post process on a RAW image. But I find it handy to have the JPEG images to quickly review if I need to.

Also set the RAW to 14 bit lossless compression as this saves on file size and doesn't loose vital information as the name implies. The compressed format does loose data and 14 bit is a significant step up from 12 bit.

This is a rather straight forward article to explain it better: Raw Conversion made easy by Thom Hogan (http://www.bythom.com/qadraw.htm)

[300+]

I usually shoot the two CF cards in the D3s as RAW & JPEG/Video. Depending on what you are doing though it is handy to also have the overflow setting to give you two cards if you find yourself in a position where you can't change cards over.

The RAW & JPEG doesn't allow for the DR and WB bracketing, you have to shoot JPEG only for this to work as it's something that can be achieved post process on a RAW image. But I find it handy to have the JPEG images to quickly review if I need to.


The D7000 can use DR with RAW only as well (not sure if you are saying it doesn't...). By DR I mean it copies the raw file onto both cards at the same time.

If you install the Nikon software you can view raw files in explorer, just like they were jpegs. If you do this there is no need to ever shoot raw+jpeg. Raws are just as flexible for me.

My workflow is simple - I view everything in lightroom (so format is irrelevant) and I have set up two user exports. One is jpeg1K and the other is jpeg3k. So I right click on any image and the option is there to export at 1024 pixels or 3000 pixels in a lightly compressed jpeg.

Given that the jpegs from the camera are typically too large to email to people I would always be scaling them down. So the fact that I shoot raw adds no extra processing at all to me.

The only time I shoot jpeg is when I need the extra buffer size. The one feature where the D7000 is weak is the buffer size/speed when shooting multiple images in succession. The 6fps continuous doesn't help here either... Generally I shoot multiple images at Cl which I have set to 4 per sec.

Cheers, Steve

[Mick_Marsh]

Yashicas ?- 'NOT' Electro 35's by any chance?
FX-D's as stated earlier in this thread. In the mid to late 80's I used to wander around Melbourne at night taking photo's of whatever I thought interesting.

It does'nt matter about having to touch the lens-barrel at the end of a TIME exposure, as the fraction-of-a-second camera shake is only a tiny % of the total time. Put your hand in front of the lens as you move the T lever to 'close'.;)
Still uncomfortable about it though.

[dmdigital]

The D7000 can use DR with RAW only as well (not sure if you are saying it doesn't...). By DR I mean it copies the raw file onto both cards at the same time.

If you install the Nikon software you can view raw files in explorer, just like they were jpegs. If you do this there is no need to ever shoot raw+jpeg. Raws are just as flexible for me.

My workflow is simple - I view everything in lightroom (so format is irrelevant) and I have set up two user exports. One is jpeg1K and the other is jpeg3k. So I right click on any image and the option is there to export at 1024 pixels or 3000 pixels in a lightly compressed jpeg.

Given that the jpegs from the camera are typically too large to email to people I would always be scaling them down. So the fact that I shoot raw adds no extra processing at all to me.

The only time I shoot jpeg is when I need the extra buffer size. The one feature where the D7000 is weak is the buffer size/speed when shooting multiple images in succession. The 6fps continuous doesn't help here either... Generally I shoot multiple images at Cl which I have set to 4 per sec.

Cheers, Steve

By DR I mean Dynamic Range Bracketing. You can also shoot RAW + smaller size JPEG.

As for small buffer size ... 9fps or 11fps and a larger buffer is no better than 6fps and a smaller buffer :( You always need more memory no matter what the device. I do the same if I really want high frame rate. I mostly shoot CL or when bracketing I go to CH as the shutter stops when the bracketing is done.

[superquag]

.......
Still uncomfortable about it though.

Put your Wizard (subscriber) HAT over the lens as you close it....

Be Brave !

[Mick_Marsh]

I'm a Wizard!! How did I get to be that.
Oh, I see now. Volumes of useless posts typed in darkened rooms.
Had more of a play this morning. This is where I spent last night.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42152&stc=1&d=1325418937

That is taken with the 300mm at 300mm. I would really like to get something like

AF-S NIKKOR
500mm f/4G ED VR

Powerful, lightweight super telephoto, ideal for nature and sports features Nikon’s VR II image stabilization and Nikon Nano Crystal Coat for exceptional performance.

Another pic at 300mm
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=42153&stc=1&d=1325419702

I'd show you the photo's of the cars I took but they're of Mercs. Did catch a glimpse of a gunbuggy I think.

[blitz]

yep good choice - between the D7000 and the D300s you are comparing grapes with grapes I bought the D300s but would have been just as happy with the D7000 if it had come out when I bought the camera.

I think a great one lense does all is the nikon 18 - 200mm VRII.

I'm now saving my pennies for the nikon 70-200mm f2.8 VRII and the tonkina 11-16mm f2.8

will put up with my old nikon film lenses until then, then save again for one inbetween and manfrotto tripod (already have a mono pod and love it) and a SB900 flash and a cordless remote and a and a and a etc. Around about the time I have all the goodies the D800 / D4 will be out and I will dream about them.

much like I do with landys as a new one comes out :D
my only real comment is when you buy new lenses buy the very best you can and do a heap of research as even the not so good ones are expensive and the really good one bloody expensive but if you get it and it isn't right for you then you hae wasted considerable $$$

[CU55TM Disco]

Hi Folks,

Hope U dont mind that I hijack this thread but I also have been toying with the idea of going DSLR for about the last 4 years, since my mate bought a (Canon) 400D to take on holidays. From what I can see, with my very limited knowledge, DSLR's are representing very good bang-4-buck at the moment (550D Twin Kit for under $1000!) but im still not convinced thats what I need.

Currently im rocking a WAAAAY old Fuji S5500
http://4.s.img-dpreview.com/files/news/1277982099/fujis5500zspecsview.jpg?v=1316 which is still in very good nick and performing flawlessly, but its getting outdated, its pretty limited, and I feel it deserves an update.

The universall-ness of a DSLR appeals to me, but the, having to lug around 20 lens's, doesnt. I like to shoot cars, and family mainly, and maybe toy around with some maco stuff for *****s and giggles, nothing long range, but as said, with a DSLR there is the option to lash out on a tele lens if I feel the need.

I figure if I can keep it to a similar size/compactness of my current camera, I iill be more willing to use it. I had been looking at Cannons, only because thats what Im familiar with, and they seem to feel nice to use/weighted well compared to the Nikons I have played with.

I had a browse t JBs the other day and was looking at the 550D Twin KIt which seems pretty good for under 1000, then I noticed the 600d has the flip flop screen which seems like a neat feature, even this is pretty good buying with the 18-55 IS and 55-250 IS lens's.
Also on the shelf they had the 600D with an 18-200 lens (around $1600), looks cool as its quite a fatty but it it as good as having the 2 smaller lens's?
$1600 is kinda sretching my budget a little, but if its going to be the best for the $$$ then that can be accomodated.
I figure down the track ill probly invest in a fixed 50mm as ive been told they are good to have, and something like a 10-20 or something nice and wide.

Unless there is something that can be suggested in the Point/Shoot range that will do what I want I figure im going to have to go DSLR, the question is, what do I put my $$$ into?!?

[Mick_Marsh]

Phat-Customs
I liked my old Fuji camera even though the photo's it took weren't great quality and it died. It was a cheap camera, ok.
I love the Nikon D7000. I know people who have Canon DSLR's and are very happy with them. I only wanted a Nikon because I used to borrow a friends F3 many years ago and loved it.

Shop around for price. In purchasing my camera and a HDD blue ray recorder I found JB to be one of the most expensive, poorest service and no longer willing to negotiate on price.

[33chinacars]

If you can afford to stay away from twin lenses kits, Do. There build down to a price , better off with 18-200 good alround lenses. Try to find Nikon /Canon in your budget with 18-200. You can get other lenses when monies allow, 10-20, macro etc. Even check ebay. I bought Nikon D300, 18-200, 10-20, Flash. Grip, ++++ from separate sellers on ebay for $5200 ( RRP $7600 ++) All in 10+ condition, may have been lucky but I'm happy. So look around. Both the Nikon & Canon 18-200 are pretty good lenses. You can get better but they will cost heaps more. I bought Nikon as I already have Nikon Film SLR camera's, but went for a Canon compact as it suited me better. If updating compact would go for Canon SX30 or SX40.

Gary

[CU55TM Disco]

I had a bit of a google, and a dig on ebay and found a Tamron 18-270mm lens Kitted up with a 600D. A few reviews seem to suggest that this is a pretty schmick lens, has anyone any opinions?

[300+]

There are cheaper places to shop:
Canon EOS 600D kit with 18-200mm IS Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=3571)

Canon EOS 600D Twin kit with 18-55 IS II and 55-250mm IS Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=3575)

The latter is under the $1000 GST threshold as well.

This is an unofficial import, but has a warranty.

Cheers, Steve

[33chinacars]

From some test reports I've seen Tamron 18-270 is not as good as Canon or Nikon 18-200. Was going to replace my 18-200 with Tamron but decided against it even tho extra length would have been good. Maybe in the next generation it will be better

Gary

[Chucaro]

I had a bit of a google, and a dig on ebay and found a Tamron 18-270mm lens Kitted up with a 600D. A few reviews seem to suggest that this is a pretty schmick lens, has anyone any opinions?

If you like high quality photos the Tamaron will not delivery it and will be good only to snap shots.
Read a report HERE (http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/412-tamron_18270_3563vc_canon'start=2), this site provide one of the lens best reports.

[CU55TM Disco]

There are cheaper places to shop:
Canon EOS 600D kit with 18-200mm IS Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=3571)

Canon EOS 600D Twin kit with 18-55 IS II and 55-250mm IS Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=3575)

The latter is under the $1000 GST threshold as well.

This is an unofficial import, but has a warranty.

Cheers, Steve

Those prices are pretty sweet! When u say "unofficial import" but still has wrty, I assume cannon Aust won't cover that wrty, it must go back to country of origin?

That 600d with the 18 -200 lens, i feel is probly what I'm after I think. Or is there another avenue I should be looking at?

Thanks for the replies so far,

Robert.

[seano87]

Originally Posted by 300+ (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=1614479)
There are cheaper places to shop:

Canon EOS 600D kit with 18-200mm IS Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=3571)



Canon EOS 600D Twin kit with 18-55 IS II and 55-250mm IS Lens Digital SLR Cameras (http://www.dwidigitalcameras.com.au/store/product.asp?idProduct=3575)



The latter is under the $1000 GST threshold as well.



This is an unofficial import, but has a warranty.



Cheers, Steve



Those prices are pretty sweet! When u say "unofficial import" but still has wrty, I assume cannon Aust won't cover that wrty, it must go back to country of origin?



That 600d with the 18 -200 lens, i feel is probly what I'm after I think. Or is there another avenue I should be looking at?



Thanks for the replies so far,



Robert.

I'm lead to believe Canon Aust will cover grey imports. Nikon won't. I bought a Nikon knowing this and figured even if I had to pay a repair it was still cheaper, or I buy a new body / lens / whatever was the problem and still be ahead.

There is a company becetex or something similar that is Aus based, and as such buy from them and is a purchase from an Australian company and warranty is thus honoured.

[300+]

Those prices are pretty sweet! When u say "unofficial import" but still has wrty, I assume cannon Aust won't cover that wrty, it must go back to country of origin?

That 600d with the 18 -200 lens, i feel is probly what I'm after I think. Or is there another avenue I should be looking at?

Thanks for the replies so far,

Robert.

DWI is an Aus company, so worst case is you have the normal consumer rights.

If you can spare the cash there is always the 60D with the 18-200...

Don't forget shipping costs & possibly GST.

Cheers, Steve

[CU55TM Disco]

There is only a couple hundred dollars difference to go up to the 60d but I'm not sure I'll even use the 600 to its full potential. That $$$ could be put towards another lens, plus I want to keep the whole thing as compact as possible. Hence looking at the 18-200 lens.

[Harold Clark]

Thanks Sarah,
VR (vibration reduction) sounds like a good feature to have. Anyone know if it works?
18-55mm and 55-300mm sounds good.
I think I'll be popping off to JB tomorrow. Use that $30 gift card I got for christmas.


I also have a Nikon D90 and it's the best camera I've had

[Nungarra]

I would like to get one for the other half as she had her old Olympus and Pentax film cameras stolen. Had a sigma and pentax lense missed and wonder how compatable they might be with a new SLR?

I guess a budget of $1k or less.

Pic's of landscapes and close ups of small fauna interest her.

Cheers.

Just looking for some knowledge with which to be armed when going out to buy.

Thanks

[Bushie]

A modern Pentax dSLR will still take all pentax K series mounts, even M42 with an adaptor although there may be some loss of functionality depending on lens.


Martyn

[Mick_Marsh]

I would like to get one for the other half as she had her old Olympus and Pentax film cameras stolen. Had a sigma and pentax lense missed and wonder how compatable they might be with a new SLR?

I guess a budget of $1k or less.

Pic's of landscapes and close ups of small fauna interest her.

Cheers.

Just looking for some knowledge with which to be armed when going out to buy.

Thanks
The sensor on a Nikon D7000 is 17mm. Remember the film is 35mm. This has an effect on the parameters of the lens. Bear that in mind.
I can't remember if that makes a 200mm film lens 400mm or 100mm on my camera.

[33chinacars]

In simple terms has a factor 1:1.5 so your 200mm lense becomes 300mm.

[Nungarra]

I wanted a light slr so I settled on a Compact - Olympus Pen E-P2

Olympus Pen E-P2 Kit | Olympus Digital Cameras | Ted's Camera Stores - Ted's Cameras (http://www.teds.com.au/olympus-pen-e-p2)

I kitted up with 14 - 42mm, 40 - 150mm zoom and 77 -300mm zoom lenses.
2 X 8gb cards = over 2000 shots
2 X Batteries = anround 700 shots
3 X U/V filters
1 X Polarising filter
1 X Car battery charger
And a few other bits and pieces

New and well under $3k

Might be an optioCheers