Axle bolts loosening

[Ranga]

Rear left bolts keep loosening, not a lot, but enough to cause a minor oil leak. Loctite 243 the answer?

Sent from the dodgy keyboard on my phone via Tapatalk

[p38arover]

Is this the same hub that had the broken bolts, Ryan?

Wasn't there a problem with removing the broken bits because the bolts were Loctited in?

[steveG]

Had the same issue on mine recently after re-using an old gasket.
Pull the drive flange off, clean out the holes to make sure there isn't any old sealant etc in them, then refit with silicon on the flange and a tiny bit on the threads.

Shouldn't need to loctite them IMO.

Steve

[rick130]

Yes, Loctite is the answer.

Make sure the threaded hole and bolt threads are extremely clean, oil free and dry before re-installing.

Also check that there's no wheel bearing play (and nip it up if there is) as that can cause this to occur IMO.

[edit] Drive flange bolts are 65Nm-48lb/ft

[cewilson]

If you are talking about the drive flange bolts, then definitely loctite them. They have a bad habit of working loose, or snapping inside of the hub. I believe that this is exasperated by loose bearing adjustment, exuberated driving or larger tyres.


Cheers
Chris

[JDNSW]

Yes, in my experience loosening drive flange bolts are almost always a symptom of excessive bearing free play.

John

[wagoo]

Ranga, Does your vehicle have Maxidrive driveflanges? Regardless,if the bolts still loosen or break after following the above suggestions, suspect a bent axle housing or stub axle.It would also be interesting to spin the halfshafts between centres and check runout at the splines.Shafts tend to bend with heat treatment, and if straightening isn't done meticulously the inner and outer splines may not be exactly parralell which can lead to premature wear and/ or extra strain on the flange bolts.
I did however cure a persistant bolt loosening problem on a friends series 3 by replacing the bolts with studs and nuts.
Bill.

[rick130]

[snip]
I did however cure a persistant bolt loosening problem on a friends series 3 by replacing the bolts with studs and nuts.
Bill.

Funny you should mention that Bill.

One of my old Jeeps had a D60 rear end with studs and nuts and IIRC it had little tapered collets as washers under the nuts in the drive flange. (I think. It was twenty years ago :angel:)

[Tank]

Funny you should mention that Bill.

One of my old Jeeps had a D60 rear end with studs and nuts and IIRC it had little tapered collets as washers under the nuts in the drive flange. (I think. It was twenty years ago :angel:)
Toyotas have the same setup, PIA to remove the cones, sometimes, Regards Frank.

[Blknight.aus]

all points covered

remove flange, tighten the bearings correctly
clean all the bolt threads clean the hub threaded holes (a short piece of wire hammered flat then bent 90 degrees will get you out of trouble as will a .22/5.56 chamber brush.)
apply loctite 243
torque to 65Nm (off the top of my head- CHECK THIS)

[LowRanger]

Use a thread chaser(not a tap) to clean the threads,and if you want to be really sure that they don't come undone prematurely,you could drill small holes through the bolt heads and run lock wire through all the bolts:eek:

[rick130]

Use a thread chaser(not a tap) to clean the threads,and if you want to be really sure that they don't come undone prematurely,you could drill small holes through the bolt heads and run lock wire through all the bolts:eek:

You really need a jig for that (and they are available or can be made) as it's an absolute b!#& to do in high tensile bolts :(

Forgot to mention earlier that some have drilled and tapped to a larger bolt size too.

[wagoo]

Toyotas have the same setup, PIA to remove the cones, sometimes, Regards Frank.

Quite a few heavier truck axles use tapared collets on the studs. The usual method of removing the axle after loosening the nuts is to belt the end of the axle with a big hammer, that in most cases shocks the collets out of the tapered seats in the axle flange.
Bill.

[uninformed]

You really need a jig for that (and they are available or can be made) as it's an absolute b!#& to do in high tensile bolts :(

Forgot to mention earlier that some have drilled and tapped to a larger bolt size too.

would a cobolt drill bit do the trick?

[rick130]

would a cobolt drill bit do the trick?

Pretty sure they are what I used to use and it's still a pain.

[Blknight.aus]

dont forget to inspect the stub and both sides of the axle.

if the stub is bent the same forces are exerted as a loose wheelbearing except you get a little witness marking around the diff side flange.

[The Cone of Silence]

I also had experience with this over the weekend. Left rear.

Noticed oil on the outside of the wheel (none on the inside) and the nuts were all loose. Tightened them up and got the vehicle home although the hub was far warmer than the rest of the wheel, which were fine.

How do I go about tightening the bearings? This isn't something I've done before.

Bobby

[JDNSW]

I also had experience with this over the weekend. Left rear.

Noticed oil on the outside of the wheel (none on the inside) and the nuts were all loose. Tightened them up and got the vehicle home although the hub was far warmer than the rest of the wheel, which were fine.

How do I go about tightening the bearings? This isn't something I've done before.

Bobby

If the hub is getting hot, either the brake is dragging or the wheel bearing is failing (brake could be dragging because of the loose bearing). Remove the flange + half axle and have a look - if it is an oil lubricated bearing - assumed because you are gettting an oil leak you should see everything nice and oily. Jack up the wheel (chock the fronts, handbrake is ineffective with a back wheel lifted) and try rocking the wheel. Anything more than barely perceptible movement at the outside of the tyre is too much. Spin the wheel. Any roughness means new bearings.

To adjust the bearing you need - manual (see Rave CD in "shop" above), hub nut spanner, new lock washer, flange gasket. Book says you need a dial gauge, but this is not necessary, just makes it easier.

John

[The Cone of Silence]

Thanks John

Bearing is sadly beyond saving. Water and dirt has found its way in there has ruined it, which does explain why it was so hot when I got home on Sunday. :(

I'm not sure what caused the problem in the first place but from now on, every couple of months I'm going to check the nuts.

Pretty sure my Doctor advised me to do the same now I'm in my late 30s ;)

Bobby

[austastar]

Hi,
I bought my D130 new in Melb and had to have a roadworthy in Tas to get it registered.
Up on the hoist the inspector found the FR wheel bearings loose, they hadn't been tightened properly, yet the other three wheels were ok.
cheers

[Bushie]

Recently had the same problem on mine rear LH drive flange came loose. HD flanges have been on for 6 years but ARB Lockers fitted 10-12000k ago. Loosened off after a bit of rougher offroad (using the locker) and then a freeway run.
Anyway bearings were a little loose (nothing severe) so tightened, cleaned and a little loctite - will see how they go from here on.
Had done some long and severe corrugations since the flanges were last off.


Martyn