Michelin 4X4 O/R - 7.5 16C 116/114N

[Natt]

Hi all. Anyone running these tyres, feed back on these will be taken in, Im still running the defender (05) std rims, how big of a tyre can one go on std rims, i have been looking at 225/85 or even 235/85 i want to keep it legal for the insurance side of things, thank you all and all the best in 2012

Natt

[rick130]

235/85 is a direct metric swap for a 7.50/16 (a little wider) and these days you will probably have a far wider choice of tyres available, although the cockies and pig chasers I know like the old style bias 7.50's on their farm rigs.
Look on the tyre chart, the 235/85 is listed.

BTW, which 'standard' rim ? steel or aluminium ?

Never heard of a 225/85-16.

[goingbush]

Think you will find 235/85r16 are the tyres you need. they are just a 1/2" or so wider that 750-16 and the same diameter.

On my 04 Def I run BFG AT 235/85R16 on my standard 5.5Jx16 rims, run them tubeless no problems at all, or tubed - whatever suits you.

Think you will find both 235/85 and 750-16 are listed on the tyre placard on the vehicle

[lochie]

G'day natt.If you google Michelin they have a chart which includes rim sizes,and inside the vehicle is a placard referring to tyre size and tyre pressures its normally right hand rear door jamb.I realise some have gone outside these recommendations with no problems.However,road authorities and insurance companies are less than enthused and may act against your interests.HAPPY NEW YEAR and safe travelling 2012.Lochie

[Natt]

Thanks for your replys, Ok so if i go say to a yokohama tyre 235/85/16 do i need to run a tube?

Rick, the standard rims are i think the wolf steel ones
Priced the Michelin from 2 stores, $ 430 and $ 470 each :eek: and found a set on e bay $ 240 each plus the transport......some one is killing the pig

[KarlB]

Thanks for your replys, Ok so if i go say to a yokohama tyre 235/85/16 do i need to run a tube?

Rick, the standard rims are i think the wolf steel ones
Priced the Michelin from 2 stores, $ 430 and $ 470 each :eek: and found a set on e bay $ 240 each plus the transport......some one is killing the pig

The best way to compare tyre prices is cost per km rather than cost per tyre. The last Michelin tyres I had (on my Discovery) went 120,000 km before needing replacement.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

[juddy]

Thanks for your replys, Ok so if i go say to a yokohama tyre 235/85/16 do i need to run a tube?

Rick, the standard rims are i think the wolf steel ones
Priced the Michelin from 2 stores, $ 430 and $ 470 each :eek: and found a set on e bay $ 240 each plus the transport......some one is killing the pig

Killing the Pig indeed, I can get these Tyres for $300, and thats with my supplier making his cut...Its Wrong so Wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!

[rick130]

The best way to compare tyre prices is cost per km rather than cost per tyre. The last Michelin tyres I had (on my Discovery) went 120,000 km before needing replacement.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

XZL's won't go that far, they wear as quickly as any other muddy and I replaced mine quickly due to a mismatched set, but I know of a 130 in the Territory that chipped and ripped their XZL's pretty quickly too and doesn't really understand why people seem to covet them..



Nat, whether you need tubes or not depends on your rims.

I'm guessing it's a 130 if it has the 6.5" 'holey' HD rims ?
It will have stamped on the rim either 'tubed' or 'tubelss' and that, if you want to stick within the letter of the law, determines whether you can go tubeless or not.

Personally I see no advantage in running tubes as they are harder to repair out bush (tubeless plugs are so easy to use) and a tubed tyre runs a lot hotter on the highway.
Back when i ran tubes I was regularly welding tubes to tyres from fast highway running.
They were a PITA IMO. :angel:

[Natt]

Thank you all

Rick, Yes it the std rims off a 130, the holey rims, it does say tubed stamped on the rim, I might make a call this week to my ins and see what they have to say about running a tube or not

Cheers
Natt

[Bearman]

Thank you all

Rick, Yes it the std rims off a 130, the holey rims, it does say tubed stamped on the rim, I might make a call this week to my ins and see what they have to say about running a tube or not

Cheers
Natt

Pretty sure they will tell you you have to use a tube if they are tubed rims. A lot of us here including me have run tubeless tyres on these same rims for years without mishap. Most insurance assessors wouldn't know the difference between a tubed and tubeless rim and even if they did they would have to prove that this caused or contributed to an incident or whatever. Tubes are a PITA and will deflate as quickly as a tubeless tyre. The Michelin XZL in 7.50.16 profile sits beautifully on the 6.5in 130 rim.

[Col.Coleman]

Getting a tyre fitter to actually fit them wll be the hard bit. It is their resposibility to ensure the tyres are fitted correctly for road use, and they are liable if they are not.

You would have to take them in as loose rims, and state you are not using them for road use, or fit them yourself.

CC

[rick130]

Getting a tyre fitter to actually fit them wll be the hard bit. It is their resposibility to ensure the tyres are fitted correctly for road use, and they are liable if they are not.

You would have to take them in as loose rims, and state you are not using them for road use, or fit them yourself.

CC

It was a professional tyre fitter/retailer that suggested to me to run tubeless on the tubed rims after rolling a front tyre off the rim at 100km/h with tubes.

As he said at the time, I wouldn't have had the catastrophic deflation running tubeless (screw through the tyre) and I was welding tubes to tyres anyway.
He reckoned the bead is so wide on the 6.5" rim it'd be hard to push off anyway, and so it's been in practice.

Every set of tyres I've had since (four sets) have been mounted tubeless, and the fitters don't mind.

[bcj]

Natt
my 110's xzl's got 45k on em reckon I'll get to 55k on this set of 4 with 80% on road. Have been surpisingly good on road (wet & dry) & great off-road ( grass / mud/ hills) But I have noticed gravel road's do chop them up a bit- specially at higher speeds ( funny my dirt bike has same problem with it's aggresive tyre's on gravel :p)
Have noticed small amount of splitting between some blocks as k's past 35k which I think is due to high on-road use
IMHO perfect tyre for off-road (unformed/ paddock) use, pricey but I will be replacing with same as am unable to find a better replacement, not ideal for high k's on gravel but

Brett
110 300tdi

[Michael2]

I inquired about Michellin tyres in 7.50R16 or 235/85 16 about 4-5 months ago.

All that was available in Australia were the LTX AT2's in 235/85. Most tyres have 2 ply steel sidewalls, but these have 3 ply, and the Michellins are known for longer wear. The Maxxis tyres I had were still good (@ 50% wear), but I was about to do a long trip, including some extended off road (Tanami) with the whole family in the car, and wanted to reduce the risk of punctures.

I got the tyres fitted for $300ea.

Thy've done 16,000km so far and have been quit, grippy, and flexible (ie air down well).

Michael

[rick130]

I inquired about Michellin tyres in 7.50R16 or 235/85 16 about 4-5 months ago.

All that was available in Australia were the LTX AT2's in 235/85. Most tyres have 2 ply steel sidewalls, but these have 3 ply, and the Michellins are known for longer wear. The Maxxis tyres I had were still good (@ 50% wear), but I was about to do a long trip, including some extended off road (Tanami) with the whole family in the car, and wanted to reduce the risk of punctures.

I got the tyres fitted for $300ea.

Thy've done 16,000km so far and have been quit, grippy, and flexible (ie air down well).

Michael

The 7.50 XZL only have polyester belts in the sidewall, juts like any other LT tyre, albeit only BFG and some Cooper, Maxxis and Toyo also have three plies there.

The big military 255/100's have steel belts in the sidewalls though ;)

[inside]

I have XZLs. On a Defender they are fine, I reach the cornering and braking limits of the rest of the vehicle before any deficiencies of the tyres come into play.

Only issue I've had is on rock the will cut when you spin wheels, all depends on your use I guess.

[justinc]

Don't mount tyres on tubed rims without tubes, there is NO safety bead so in the case of a deflation, the tyre will come off the bead, the rim will dig into the road and worse case serious accident, even at relatively low speeds. I have used tubeless wolf rims to avoid this aver being possible.

JC

[rick130]

Don't mount tyres on tubed rims without tubes, there is NO safety bead so in the case of a deflation, the tyre will come off the bead, the rim will dig into the road and worse case serious accident, even at relatively low speeds. I have used tubeless wolf rims to avoid this aver being possible.

JC

But Justin, if you puncture a tube the tyre just rolls off the rim anyway as there's nothing to hold it on ;)

Been there, done that at 100km/h through a corner.....

[edit] although I shouldn't have made the statement I did above as it sounds as if I advocate running tubeless on tubed rims and I don't, and if anyone is in doubt, they shouldn't either. [/end disclaimer]