Hot shower

[mools]

Hi,

after a few weeks away camping I almost forgot how good a nice warm shower was. So now I'm thinking of getting shower capability built in to my '06 Td5 defender - but I have no real clue how to do it.

I see two options 1) do it myself or 2) some type of manufactured aftermarket add on.

So my questions are;

i) Does anyone currently run either custom or aftermarket system? How are they set up (Pics?) tank location, capacity, type of pump used. Merits (or otherwise) from experience would be good info. The type of cost involved would be very helpful.

But more specifically....

ii) Having removed the EGR I now have some very useful looking pipes available that would allow a closed loop heat exchange with the cooling system. Anyone done this? If so how did you configure it? And would / does it lower the engine temp too much and cause other problems (e.g. over fuel?). Again and pics, merits (or otherwise) from experience would be good info.

Would massively appreciate anyones input on this, or if I've missed some useful threads elsewhere (I did look) direction to them if possible.

Cheers and a happy new year to all.

Ian.

[Blknight.aus]

yep, the EGR once cleaned out makes for a nice convection feed water heater.

[mools]

That's what I'm thinking Dave but it's how to do it (neat and solid). I've ratted the idea around on a few disparate threads in the past but have yet to find anyone who has done it or details of how best to do it - thats the purpose of this thred to try and get some details, compare with an aftermarket solution and see which avenue to go down. As you have mentioned previously tank under the front wing would make sense.

So if you have and details / experience to share.....

[Blknight.aus]

with the EGR cooler still mounted to the block (so the OEM coolant hoses can be used) and the EGR blanking kit in place

make up a second set of EGR blanking plates, tap them to take a 1/2 inch barb. fit them to the EGR cooler. From the bottom of a tank fitted under the guard remove the OEM washer tank) run a 1/2 inch hose along the existing cooling system hoses and take it up to the location that the EGR valving (or pypass) is in and then connect it to the low side 1/2 inch barb.

From the other side of the EGR cooler attach more 1/2 inch hose and head it back towards the original EGR exhaust supply but duck it out behind the water pump and back into the middle of the water tank (you need to avoid running this hose lower than the high side of the EGR or it may develop an air lock and not allow convection flow).

the water outlet is a simple pipe fitting that connects to the top of the tank and the inlet plumbs to the bottom.

Done.

[alittlebitconcerned]

Dave, you are a freak; and I mean that in the nicest possible way. Brilliant.

How efficient would this be? From cold start would you have to wait longer for it to work than say for a gline exchange for example?
And would you get a continual flow of hot water? or would the smaller surface area of the EGR 'exchange' not keep up with heating water as well as something like the gline.


Probably stupid questions as I really don't know what I'm talking about, but in my head this is how it might go.

[Blknight.aus]

I got as far as dummy running the required hoses and mocking up positions on big red before Circumstance required she be sold.

Im also looking at making a small MEN oil burning heater with an EGR cooler in the flue and using the cooling system side as the heat exchanger.

Ive also looked at fitting the EGR cooler adjacent to the dump pipe and plumbing it in and doing the same.

[mools]

Dave your a legend - brilliant! Almost sounds too easy. Have you (or anyone else) actually ever done it? If so we all know the rules about pictures...

Now then, anyone any thoughts on a suitable submersible pump to use for a shower? I'm thinking though that water will be pretty warm (around 80 deg C)

Or....

I have an ARB compressor on board perhaps pressurise the system to lift the water to a header on the roof rack (that'd should only take about 150 kPa) with shower attachment fitted to that ?

Or....

Maybe I just put a tap on the tank and use it as a hot water source and use a tub with some holes in it hung up in a tree (the cave man approach).

I still wonder if adding an extra 20 or so liters fluid capacity, albeit on an inefficient cooling circuit, will play with the engine a bit though. Longer time to warm up and therefore fuelling higher for longer.

[Graeme]

The coolant hose diameter for the EGR cooler is quite small so might not produce much heat, as well as having coolant flow designed to cool rather than heat. Redirecting the pipe that runs along the left side of the head (on the D2 TD5 at least) to the cabin heater through a heat exchanger before returning to the cabin heater was going to be my choice as it always has flow of the hottest coolant, providing the heat exchanger doesn't restrict flow to such an extent that the cabin heater no longer works well enough.

[slug_burner]

If you not going to plumb something into the vehicle you can get a showerhead and pump and heat the water on the fire or use a black plasticied bag to capture the solar rays. All bit should be available from youor local camping shop. I have used the pump and showerhead and once you get up into the northern parts the water doesn't have to be that hot. You can stand in a tub of water drop the pump intot he tub and have a long shower although with recycled water. I draw the line at using someone elses water:p

Down Under Camping*::*SHOWERS*::*12 Volt & Solar Shower Setup*::*Coleman-23L PVC Camp Shower [807A706T] (http://www.downundercamping.com.au/product.php?productid=17498&cat=257&page=1)

Down Under Camping*::*SHOWERS*::*12 Volt & Solar Shower Setup*::*Primus-12V Camp Shower Set [] (http://www.downundercamping.com.au/product.php?productid=18166&cat=257&page=1)

[cjc_td5]

Mools,
If you are going to use one of the submersible pump shower units as your shower anyway, to use the engine to heat the water only seems like a lot of work.

For our bush showers, we heat a saucepan (or billy) of water to fairly hot and pour it into a bucket. Then fill the bucket to full with cold water, which will bring the water temperature down to about the correct temperature. If we are careful, we can get two showers from one bucket of water.

Unless you are heating your water at the end of your daily running when the engine is still hot, I would imagine that you would have to run your engine for several minutes to get it hot enough to use as a heat exchanger? Surely it would be more efficient to use some gas from the stove or a campfire for the same purpose?

That said, I have been guilty many times of tackling a project just for the challenge! Experiment away! :D

Cheers,
Chris

[Blknight.aus]

the idea of the EGR system is not that its instant, Its there after a days drive. Plug in the drain hose at the top and feed in about the same amount of water as the internal tank holds and theres your hot water and the system is reset to warm up the next day.

for my shower I just use a boat bilge pump in a bucket. Prior to having the shower (usually while Im cooking) I either put the bucket of water near the fire or dump 2-3 kettles full of hot water into it prior to filling it up.

a 3m length of hose and 5m worth of wire and it either plugs into the ciggy socket or into a ciggy socket on a set of battery clamps that plugs onto my portable lighting battery.

usually If Im planing on showering off of the vehicle I'll just jack-knife the vehicle and the trailer then run a tarp from the passangers door to the trailer.


for extra poops and giggles the shower in a bucket along with a small peg basket doubles up as a washing machine, put the pump under the upside down basket so that theres somewhere for dirt and stuff to accumulate and to stop the cloths from blocking the pump, fill with water, soap and just redirect the shower head to the top of the bucket.

Done.

[dullbird]

Or get a coleman unit...then you can have the shower away from the car if you wish.

[mfc]

a canvas shower bucket will give me a ten minute jobie ... only drawback is finding a tree , on the upside there cheep,small ,almost indistuctable and light

[Blknight.aus]

about a 3m pole poked through the pintle and stuck into the ground near the diff will give you about 10cms of clearance to a military issue shower bucket if you are the regulation 1.8m tall. (2 long cam-poles works well)

the same thing can usually be achieved by wedging the pole through the bull bar, if you have under side recovery points you can do the same thing by passing the pole through a shackle attached to the recovery point BUT usually this requires a very long pole to be effective, Tying it back helps heaps and allows you to use a shorter pole, goto to the spare (if youve done it on the rear of a disco) door hinge (if you did it to a deefer) the bonnet latch ( if you did it at the front open the bonnet, pass the rope round the latch close the bonnet) then tie it to the pole.


if you dont have a bull bar or recovery points you can open up one of the front doors and wedge it in the angle between the window, door frame and seat box/frame you only need a 2m pole for that one.

your best friend for stringing one up a tree is a pully on a long rope and a heavy duty peg.


sling the rope with the pully on the end of it over a tree branch out past a fork that will stop the rope from sliding towards the trunk.
get the pully down to ground level
thread the free end of the rope through the pully.
tie the free end of the rope to the peg in the ground
tie a figure 8 on the bite somewhere between 3 and 5m past the pully
pull the side of the rope that has the pully tied to it up untill the pully is about 1m over head height and secure the rope to the tree or the peg
untie the end of the rope from the peg and tie your shower bucket to it using a long looped bowline that keeps the bucket about 50 CM off the ground (makes it easy to fill from a jerry/bucket for a normal height adult)
now tie a figure 8 on the bite (several if you need to adjust the height) to loop onto the peg to lift the filled shower bucket.


The main advantage of this is that it stops the rope from ringbarking into the tree if you're there for a prolonged stop and the pully with the knots in the running end of the rope makes it easy to pull up if your hands are wet.

To get it down.


Untie the bowline
Untie the knot thats holding the pully up
Using the 2:1 advantage of the pully pull the pully down to ground level Undo all the knots in the rope (leave the pully on the rope)
start to coil up the rope from the pully pulling the exess rope over the treebranch (standing away from the trunk so the rope wants to walk out along the branch will stop it from snagging in the crook of the fork)
retrieve the peg and put it all back in the shower bucket.

[mfc]

"if you dont have a bull bar or recovery points you can open up one of the front doors and wedge it in the angle between the window, door frame and seat box/frame you only need a 2m pole for that one. "
ill have to try this tomorow.... trees here are generaly abundant but a 2 meter pole in the back would be real handy on the wa trip...

[Blknight.aus]

Not sure if your in a disco or a deefer but the 1.5M extendable poles are just the thing... heres an extra tip, buy 2 if you you find yourself needing more than the 2.7m of pole they provide by removing the bottom half from one pole, taking the rubber foot off of the other you can then slide the top half of the first pole over the bottom half of the second pole and hit about 4.2m.

the 1.5m pole fits perfectly across the floor of the defender and if you remove the rubber foot and slide the point in under the side panel of the disco just behind where the door closes they fit perfectly there.

[dirty130]

I was told of this the other day, 5l pump up garden spray from Bunnings $35.00, cut the extension off for convenience, boil the billy or leave it in the sun all day, a quick spray to get wet and soap up, rinse off ------ aaaahhhhhh.

Haven't tried it yet, but it looks the goods in the back yard. Off to Eucla for a week in the morning - to a mouse plague apparently - so I will give a test.

Lynn

[mools]

5l pump up garden spray from Bunnings $35.00. We're getting pretty low tech here and pricy compared to a pump and shower head for $23 (I couldn't believe that you could get stuff that cheap - thanks SB). Still each to their own and I guess you could always adapt the sprayer it into a flame thrower to help deal with the mice.

To be honest as I've read the responses It's slowly dawned on me that....

a) People have put a lot more thought in to theses matters than I ever have.

and...

b) A fire and billy coupled with either shower bag or pump is the way to go (KISS).

I also like the idea of makeshift washing machine and other alternative uses too so I reckon pump is the way I'll go.

I guess I'll just have to find another use for the EGR pipe. I'm now thinking of other things I can't do without for more than a week or so - occasional chestnut / coffee / peanut roaster perhaps? Or a continuos feed cheese melter? Up front popcorn production?

Trailed any of those yet Dave?

Cheers all.

Ian.

[slug_burner]

Coffee is easy, get the pack of grinds from your local, either use a plunger

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1188.jpg

or if you like it basic (Turkish/Greek)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1189.jpg

or a Moka pot like the Italians

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1190.jpg

Not unless you mean instant:(

I have a plastic handled/lid etc on a plunger, might try a Moka pot for the next long trip. The smell of coffee brings in the visitors.

Oops!
Just noticed your only after a roaster. Use your camp oven. Now the continuous feed cheese maker?? I'll leave that to Dave I'm sure he has a few designs for 12 V driven ones.

[Blknight.aus]

. We're getting pretty low tech here and pricy compared to a pump and shower head for $23 (I couldn't believe that you could get stuff that cheap - thanks SB). Still each to their own and I guess you could always adapt the sprayer it into a flame thrower to help deal with the mice.

To be honest as I've read the responses It's slowly dawned on me that....

a) People have put a lot more thought in to theses matters than I ever have.

and...

b) A fire and billy coupled with either shower bag or pump is the way to go (KISS).

I also like the idea of makeshift washing machine and other alternative uses too so I reckon pump is the way I'll go.

I guess I'll just have to find another use for the EGR pipe. I'm now thinking of other things I can't do without for more than a week or so - occasional chestnut / coffee / peanut roaster perhaps? Or a continuos feed cheese melter? Up front popcorn production?

Trailed any of those yet Dave?

Cheers all.

Ian.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/1187.jpg for the coffee, you're just going to have to bite the bullet and survive on preground, I havent yet found a reliable roaster/grinder that I can run without mains.

popcorn is easy enough you just do that in the same frypan or camp oven you do your pankcakes in over a medium fire

Continuous feed cheese melter? Ok bare with me on this one, you're going to need to fit a side drive PTO to the LT230 but configure it so that it comes up through the center between the seats........

[Carslil Jim]

I know I have arrived on the battle scene after the troops have gone and the medals awarded..... but, I do have a heat exchanger installed at the back of the engine bay, a pump (very inconveniently) located behind a headlight, and a couple of connector points for hose and shower built into the bullbar. A short rod fits to a slot on the bullbar and the shower head can attach to that or be operated hand held. This is all circa 1985 installed.

The engine (in my case an 85 County V8), needs to be at operating temp and at the flick of a switch the shower operates.

In reality I have never used it, but it is operational and would do the trick in the bush and I am sure would be a lady's best friend.

The heat exchanger is the barrel shaped black object with hoses protruding, behind the air cleaner which is the dusty surface in the foreground in the pic. More pics on demand.

Regards

Jim

[mfc]

. We're getting pretty low tech here and pricy compared to a pump and shower head for $23 (I couldn't believe that you could get stuff that cheap - thanks SB). Still each to their own and I guess you could always adapt the sprayer it into a flame thrower to help deal with the mice.

To be honest as I've read the responses It's slowly dawned on me that....

a) People have put a lot more thought in to theses matters than I ever have.

and...

b) A fire and billy coupled with either shower bag or pump is the way to go (KISS).

I also like the idea of makeshift washing machine and other alternative uses too so I reckon pump is the way I'll go.

I guess I'll just have to find another use for the EGR pipe. I'm now thinking of other things I can't do without for more than a week or so - occasional chestnut / coffee / peanut roaster perhaps? Or a continuos feed cheese melter? Up front popcorn production?

Trailed any of those yet Dave?

Cheers all.

Ian.

ive herd of people using the spray pumps for spinifex country.. and i guess its also extra water storage....the problem i have with the shower head/pump setups is that there crappy and bugger up all the time.
i looked at cheepish bilge pumps in bcf to make my own but the bag is indestructable and required less thought lol. it has also been femail approved

[numpty]

I've been using a cheap ($19) shower setup for a number of years now and have no trouble with it as long as it is thoroughly drained after use. They're so cheap, you can even carry a spare. Also looked at cheap bilge pumps but they deliver too much water.

A bucket, a mat and an instant shower tent is all that's required, just put the shower head in the bucket when soaping up, then there is no recycled water at all and no need to turn on and off. Either heat the water on the fire or gas stove. 15 litres suffices for two showers usually.

[wagoo]

Or get a coleman unit...then you can have the shower away from the car if you wish.

Agree. I bought my Coleman unit 3 years ago for $260 when Anaconda were having a sale. It gets used 3 times a day every day, as it has been the sole hotwater supply in our cabin for over 2 years. Very economical to operate on an 8.5 kg gas cylinder with optional gas hose, and no stuffing around. Have a shower where and whenever you want, even for example, when vehicle is parked on Northern side of Jardine river whilst camp is on South side.
Bill.

[Blknight.aus]

which unit have you got, most places are now only stocking those ones that take the screw in cans.

[wagoo]

which unit have you got, most places are now only stocking those ones that take the screw in cans.
Mine originally had the disposable screw in can. But the units come with an operators manual that shows options, one being the adaptor gas hose for 8.5kg and larger gas cylinders. They had these at my local BCF store.
Bill.

[Ranga]

I have both - a Coleman HWOD, and a $20 shower/pump used with a bucket of hot water.

When circumstances permit, heat water over fire and use the shower. When they don't, the Coleman can be a God send! Instant hot water is a luxury I'm afraid I'll get too accustomed to, though.

BTW, my Coleman has the adapter hose to go to a 4.5kg POL gas bottle.

Sent from the dodgy keyboard on my phone via Tapatalk

[130man]

HI all. I am in the "shower bucket with an electric pump" camp and it works very well. On the coffee front, I have a stainless plunger with double walls so the coffee stays hot longer, wrap it in a towel as well and it is really good. A friend has the Coleman hot water system and is very happy with that. For a washing machine, we use the large lidded bucket approach. Half full, it slops aroung wonderfully as you drive and the rinse cycle works the same.Cheers, 130man.

[clubagreenie]

And here I was thinking when we were first traveling out west a bath once a week or so when ever we cam across a hot bore was good.

[Bushie]

And here I was thinking when we were first traveling out west a bath once a week or so when ever we cam across a hot bore was good.

That's part of the problem - when you are in some of the more remote areas (especially deserts) 'having' water to shower with is a major part of the problem. At least the whole group smells the same :cool::cool:


Martyn

[numpty]

That's part of the problem - when you are in some of the more remote areas (especially deserts) 'having' water to shower with is a major part of the problem. At least the whole group smells the same :cool::cool:


Martyn

Yes, we do, dont we.:D:D

[clubagreenie]

I remember coming across one where the well head was a grown mass of yellow sulphurous with a correspondingly yellow lined creek trailing off in the distance. Was perfect temp to boil eggs on the ground. 2k's down stream you could just dunk a hand and a bit further down someone had dug out a "pool" and baths were had all round. Then you get dusty on the 2k walk back.

Worse still than smelling I think is when it's raining, particularly in the black western Qld dirt, and it's water water everywhere and not a drop to wash in.

[Fluids]

I researched the camp shower thing to bits .... so this is from my perspective, for what works for us ... family of three travelling solo.

We dont carry any buckets in the D2 that can be put on a fire (we do carry a 10L & 20L collapsible hiking buckets - fold up and fit in your pocket). Solid buckets are just awkward to pack ... we don't tow a trailer.

Heat exchanger (engine mounted) type units don't heat quick enough for use on the Td5 to run a hot shower live ... have spoken to a few who have tried, and read a few reports on the internet that state the same ... they DO work if you recycle the water into/out-of a bucket until it's hot enough ... seems like a hassle to run the vehicle until it's up to temp and cycle the water for probably 20+min .... then take water to show, canvas bag, etc, etc ... then, what!? ... we need more hot water ?? ... and we don't carry a solid bucket ...

The sub pump in a bucket thing is cheap, but you have to be near a 12v supply to run the pump, meaning you have to be close to the vehicle .... not always possible/desireable, and then you still have to heat up the water, put it in the bucket, connect the power, hang the shower rose, etc, etc .... still need a bucket and have to heat the water ...

We used a solar shower bag for a while. Great way to heat the water IF you can leave the bag in the sun for an extended time (no good if your driving all day) ... THEN you have to hoist it up in the air high enough to get under it ... I just can't see my crew hoisting 20Kg 3m+ into the air ... IF there's a suitable tree branch around to do this duty. The solar bag works great for filling a canvas bag, but you still have to hoist it ... same problems.

The garden pressure sprayer method seems to have a few followers ... plastic vessels full of hot water under pressure .... :eek: ... they don't stand up well to temperature, and you still need another method of heating the water ... the water can't be heated in the sprayer body.

Then there's what we settled for ... the Rainman Camp Shower. It's a pressure sprayer type concept made of stainless steel ... except for a plastic shower rose/tap ... it holds 12L of water, and telescopes up to around 1.8m high. It can be heated by sitting it next to the fire, under a black plastic garbage bag in the sun, or put it on the stove !! If you want a hot shower at 10pm at night, put it on the stove for 10-12min and have a hot shower! Nice :) Once the unit is heated, you can just pick it up and carry it off into the scrub and have a shower behind a tree ... no shower tent needed ... no 12v, no hoses, no running engines, etc ....

Yes, it's $300+ made in Australia, and parts available, and for all the other hassles it avoids, it was worth every penny paid (I got mine for $320 + postage). It is a lifetime unit ... look after it and it will last you a lifetime ... we leave home with it filled, and transfer the water (drinking) to the jerrys before refilling it with river/creek/dam/salt water where possible for a shower.

... did I mention it can be used for a cold shower to ? Fill with water, pump the handle and shower .... Brrrrrrrrrr :p

The Rainman & an Oztent CR-2 shower tent (3 sec throw-it-up) and we're good to go. It's simple. It's so simple Mrs F and junior F are able to do it all them selves. Shower & tent. Quick & simple ... is worth paying extra for imho. And yes, two people can have a good shower .... usually we can do 2x adults and 1x kid on 1 fill. Wet down, wash, rinse-off.

RainMan camping shower ------ Hot camp shower (http://www.2daloo.com/camp_shower.htm)

http://au.oztent.com/products/viewProduct.asp?productid=162
(we went with the CR-2 as it's a bigger floor area, and it's used as a toilet tent as well ... a Jimmy's thunderbox from the Rainman shower people) ... and the roof comes off.

$400 for the pair and never have to worry again.

[LowRanger]

I agree with Kev.
The rainman camping showers are all inclusive,require nothing more than water and any type of heat source if required.And they are solid and will last you a life time

[dirty130]

I was told of this the other day, 5l pump up garden spray from Bunnings $35.00, cut the extension off for convenience, boil the billy or leave it in the sun all day, a quick spray to get wet and soap up, rinse off ------ aaaahhhhhh.

Haven't tried it yet, but it looks the goods in the back yard. Off to Eucla for a week in the morning - to a mouse plague apparently - so I will give a test.

Lynn

So there is no (well very few) mice in the plague after after a suitably disastrous hot spell for rodents. The spray bottle shower? Well it's 6 klm on the quad to the Border Village, 2 bucks for 10 min of lovely soft RO shower - so that settled the creature comfort aspect. The spray bottle works wonderfully well for the morning wash - and to pressure blast the weetbix from the bowl. 5l of water has lasted a week. So it is a worthy investment.

[mfc]

Not sure if your in a disco or a deefer but the 1.5M extendable poles are just the thing... heres an extra tip, buy 2 if you you find yourself needing more than the 2.7m of pole they provide by removing the bottom half from one pole, taking the rubber foot off of the other you can then slide the top half of the first pole over the bottom half of the second pole and hit about 4.2m.

the 1.5m pole fits perfectly across the floor of the defender and if you remove the rubber foot and slide the point in under the side panel of the disco just behind where the door closes they fit perfectly there.

ive ended up using the shovel as the bottom pole and a cut down old wooden tent pole with the seat box idea ,just ground a bit of the whith of the shovel handle and cut the pole to a height that hangs the bag above my sholders...cheep light and fairly indestructable...

[Blknight.aus]

Good call.

Me personally I hate having to duck around the shower bucket so I usually set them up to hang about an inch or 2 over head height

[flagg]

For Coffee:

A ceramic burr manual grinder.. like this:

Hario Skerton Ceramic Hand Grinder (http://ministrygrounds.com.au/coffee-equipment/hario-gear/hario-skerton-hand-grinder.html)

and a stove top espresso machine.. like this one:

Bellman CX25P Stainless Steel Stovetop - With Gauge | Di Bartoli Home Barista Centre (http://www.dibartoli.com.au/product/Bellman_CX25P_Stainless_Steel_Stovetop_-_With_Gauge)

And for roasting your beans.. use a whirly pop popcorn maker. Like this one..

http://www.popcornpopper.com/24000.html

:D

[mfc]

Good call.

Me personally I hate having to duck around the shower bucket so I usually set them up to hang about an inch or 2 over head height

only reason i shortened it was that the missus is short and i usualy shave or clipper my head plus i can lift it there full without using a box:eek:

[Blknight.aus]

only reason i shortened it was that the missus is short and i usualy shave or clipper my head plus i can lift it there full without using a box:eek:

Thats what the side steps are for :)

actually I agree thats a problem, my canvas shower has its rope and pully permanantly attached to it so I solve that problem by using the rope and pully. The electric shower is hand held and doesnt really mount on anything so it solves the problem of having to mount the pole, leaving it available to help support the modesty screen if its going to be used.

[Benz]

I have a heat exchange unit which I stole from another car i own.
It worked very well in the other car (Suzuki Jimny) and I assume it would work the same in the defender (td5)

but I keep reading people say they don't work very well in the td5's.
all the instances I have found are only from what they have heard.

so has anyone tried a heat exchange unit on a td5 for themselves?
and how well did it work?

I know u bucket of hot water on a stick is cheap....
but this car will be my house...

[Blknight.aus]

it'll work just fine on the TD5.. But plumbing it in needs a bit of care and attention as the coolant flow through some parts of the TD5 changes direction when the thermostat opens.

[lardy]

Move to the pilbara leave a canvas bag or plastic shower bag hanging up in the back of the landy that'll do it lol


---
I am here: Google Maps
Sent from my iPhone using Telepathy

[Benz]

it'll work just fine on the TD5.. But plumbing it in needs a bit of care and attention as the coolant flow through some parts of the TD5 changes direction when the thermostat opens.

yeah will have a look on my rave cd.

I guess some people don't realize that you actually have to take the car for a drive to get the engine temps up there. simply letting it idle until the temp gauge says it's at operating temp isn't enough....

we will see how I go.

[Blknight.aus]

actually it is, but its about the worst thing you can do to a diesel.

the tdi is the best engine cooling system wise for fitting up a glind type unit when it comes to getting the coolant exchange happening.

[mfc]

helton {?} in qld i think sell and make heat exchangers, they look to be cheeper
than glind/piranah etc,and will make to spec.
Helton heat exchangers - camp hot water systems and camping showers (http://www.helton.com.au/)
Thats what i was considering doing before "lazing" out and getting the bag....
"Thats what the side steps are for" .......trouble is that ive tossed the f*&&^^$$^ side steps , easier to get in without them , they drove me crazy. The ropes always in the car anyhow .

[willie]

it'll work just fine on the TD5.. But plumbing it in needs a bit of care and attention as the coolant flow through some parts of the TD5 changes direction when the thermostat opens.

Dave, here is the recommended placement for the piranha power shower (which is reminiscent of the glind). What do you think of this for optimal placement? Certainly looks like and easy install (hmm, wonder if the acoustic cover would still fit).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/794.jpg

[Benz]

actually it is, but its about the worst thing you can do to a diesel.

sorry don't follow?

[jimb]

Think Blknight means letting a diesel idle is the worst thing, but that it will get temp up.

[Blknight.aus]

Dave, here is the recommended placement for the piranha power shower (which is reminiscent of the glind). What do you think of this for optimal placement? Certainly looks like and easy install (hmm, wonder if the acoustic cover would still fit).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/794.jpg


My prefered method of setting it up is to locate it under the air filter over the bell housing (then you can still use the circled area to cook saussage rolls, garlic breads and traverller pies on) and then feed it from the end of the pipe that lives where youve circled to the heater by fitting a new hose that goes to the exchanger (and please dont move that pipe like that it stresses the moulding on the hose with the bleeder on it and can cause the smaller lines to kink and fracture) and then come out of the exchanger back to the heater matrix. Plug the ends of the cooling system hose you remove and then ziptie it to the air filter box mounts or the shower unit.

The reason being that IF you happen to damage the unit you can still use all the original hoses and you can still easily get into the secret hidden heater hose.




sorry don't follow?

Yep, what JimB said

Idling an engine just to heat up water is about the least effecient thing you could do (just justifiable if you're also doing it to charge batteries) you might as well go get a diesel fired heater put 200ml of diesel in that and use it to heat 5-10l of water hell give me 2 weeks and I should just about have the plans for converting a td5 EGR cooler into a water heater done. Its also bad for the engine as it leads to glazing of the bores.

when using those things, If your going to have a shower at the end of the days driving shortly after you pull up (and I mean as in you pull up, your wife heads into the tent, grabs the shower gear while you hook up the hoses and start the pump dont forget to throw a towel over the grill to retard airflow through the radiator) then they're a great idea but to start it up just to get a hot shower is (yes Im repeating) bad for the engines longevity and in some peoples eyes are worse than generators (Ive seen people complain about a .8kw inverter silenced 4 stroke imagine if you pulled up with them and then cranked a 2.2+l diesel with a homping great fan to high idle EVERY night for 15 minutes just when they were settling down and its a lot longer when its really cold)

[Benz]

ah I see what you mean now.

for some reason I read it as taking your car for a drive was the worst thing you could do for a diesel.... was thinking "that cant be right"

haha yeah I only use the shower after getting back to camp after a drive or something... would be insanely stupid to start that car and get it to running temp just to have a shower...

and I like to camp where there are no people if I can.

[willie]

My prefered method of setting it up is to locate it under the air filter over the bell housing (then you can still use the circled area to cook saussage rolls, garlic breads and traverller pies on) and then feed it from the end of the pipe that lives where youve circled to the heater by fitting a new hose that goes to the exchanger (and please dont move that pipe like that it stresses the moulding on the hose with the bleeder on it and can cause the smaller lines to kink and fracture) and then come out of the exchanger back to the heater matrix. Plug the ends of the cooling system hose you remove and then ziptie it to the air filter box mounts or the shower unit.

The reason being that IF you happen to damage the unit you can still use all the original hoses and you can still easily get into the secret hidden heater hose.


Thanks Dave - I was going to ask you to draw me a picture ... but I think I got it ... use the pipes as shown to plumb to the in/out of the HE but mount the HE on the firewall not on the block ... so the flow from these pipes is the best place on the TD5?!

Good idea on keeping the OE hose JIC (goes without saying!)

BTW not guilty of hose abuse - pic is from Piranha's instructions.

[Blknight.aus]

Thanks Dave - I was going to ask you to draw me a picture ... but I think I got it ... use the pipes as shown to plumb to the in/out of the HE but mount the HE on the firewall not on the block ... so the flow from these pipes is the best place on the TD5?!

Good idea on keeping the OE hose JIC (goes without saying!)

BTW not guilty of hose abuse - pic is from Piranha's instructions.

not quite.

leave that steel pipe in place and use 2 new pieces of hose from the end of that pipe nearest the heater, one to the HE the other from the HE to the heater matrix.

yes, thats about the best place coolant flow wise to mount it in.