Axle breakage

[skoller]

:confused:Just need an idea how to get mobile again "if" I break an axle out bush. As you can see by my question that I am not a super mechanic. The small Problems I can handle but anything major likes this, I have no idea.
Thanks if anyone can help.

[jx2mad]

Hi there. If it is a rear axle, pulloff the grease cap on wheel bearings and slide broken axle out. You might have to fish around to get both pieces out. Then unbolt rear tailshaft and remove it. Put vehicle in 4wd and lock centre diff, and drive on front wheels only. If a permanent 4wd, remove broken axle and rear tailshaft and lock centre diff and drive on front wheels. If you do a front axle, remove front tailshaft, lock centre diff and use rear wheel drive. If you cant get broken pieces out you stand a chance of causing diff damage but sometimes you may have to risk it to get mobile. Jim

[Benz]

should be able to engage your CDL to get going.

that's as much as i know...

should he try and remove the broken axle before traveling too far?

I also would like to know

[jx2mad]

Hi again. I should add that to pull rear axle out, jack up the side that is broken and unbolt the drive flange from wheel hub. Then pull the broken axle out. Carry a tube of sealer, silastic is ok to reseal drive flange to prevent oil loss. Jim

[weeds]

is there a reason to remove the prop shaft.........

when i did a CV i left my prop shaft attached so that i still had drive to the other axle on the front ;)

[ugu80]

Minimise the risk of breakage - Maxidrive axles and flanges?

[isuzurover]

is there a reason to remove the prop shaft.........

when i did a CV i left my prop shaft attached so that i still had drive to the other axle on the front ;)

That is only possible if you have a locker. If you have an unlocked axle and remove one halfshaft, all drive will go to the side gear with no halfshaft connected. So you will only be wearing the diff by spinning the side gear and spider bearings (which only have crude thrust washers), and running the risk of any remaining metal bits doing damage (this latter is also true if you have a locker).

With a detroit or TT you run the risk of destroying your centre diff.

[rovercare]

is there a reason to remove the prop shaft.........

when i did a CV i left my prop shaft attached so that i still had drive to the other axle on the front ;)

That only works with a locker

If its an axle broken, leave the thing in, don't touch it, lock centre diff and that's it

An axle makes a snapping clank, then nothing, if it pops up again, its a diff

If its a diff, remove axles and tailshaft

cv's make lunching noises, if this is the case, you really need to tear it doen and remove the nasty bits as there is every chance your steering will lock up with broken bits jamming the swivel hub, D2 or P32 not the case, open hubs

[isuzurover]

...
If its an axle broken, leave the thing in, don't touch it, lock centre diff and that's it...

While most good quality axles fail neatly, I have had a 10-spliner break, where a 1" long section of axle "shattered" into 8 or so largish chunks of metal. I wouldn't want to have driven any distance with those bits floating around...

[rovercare]

While most good quality axles fail neatly, I have had a 10-spliner break, where a 1" long section of axle "shattered" into 8 or so largish chunks of metal. I wouldn't want to have driven any distance with those bits floating around...

Rare breakage!, I shudder to think of how many broken axles Ive had in my scrap pile, 30-40-50? anyhow, never broken one like that, I've seen the odd pic, but never in the flesh

[isuzurover]

Rare breakage!, I shudder to think of how many broken axles Ive had in my scrap pile, 30-40-50? anyhow, never broken one like that, I've seen the odd pic, but never in the flesh

Not quite so rare on series 10-spliners AFAIK. Here is another (not mine). I think I have the bronen end/bits of mine somewhere still.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/994.jpg

Then there are the breaks (axles and CVs) were you end up with a "spear"
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Didge]

Great question Skoller! good answers here too but how many tools must one carry when heading off road?

[Drover]

Fix it before it breaks....

Fit Ashcroft alloy steel axels, drive flanges and CV's;)

[uninformed]

Fix it before it breaks....

Fit Ashcroft alloy steel axels, drive flanges and CV's;)

what are the advantages of ashcorft axles and driveflanges over Hi-tough?

[rovercare]

Not quite so rare on series 10-spliners AFAIK. Here is another (not mine). I think I have the bronen end/bits of mine somewhere still.
http://landroveroneten.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/2008-05-23-all_the_bits_of_the_snapped_half_shaft_left_in_the _differential.jpg

Then there are the breaks (axles and CVs) were you end up with a "spear"
http://91.103.216.138/~kamdiffs/images/LAND%20ROVER%20CV%20TESTED-V1.JPG

Never had either, broken lots of stuff, but never series, almost excusively RR classic

[Drover]

what are the advantages of ashcorft axles and driveflanges over Hi-tough?

Probably none, it is just brand preference I guess.

Ashcroft, claim that their half shafts/flanges & CV's are of a particular design that makes them the strongest available and come with a 5 year unconditional warranty.

IMHO it is better to strengthen known weak point before they fail in a remote area. I would much rather turn spanners in the shed, in my own time, rather than beside a dirt track in the middle of know where.

Cheers

[skoller]

Thanks for all the replies. I now think I could tackle the problem if it arises. Not sure how to get the broken bit out of the diff without pulling it apart though if it broke close to that end. I would like to replace the axles with stronger ones and I probally will later on.

[Bushranger]

Great original post and replies, cheers as well. :)

[PAT303]

Thanks for all the replies. I now think I could tackle the problem if it arises. Not sure how to get the broken bit out of the diff without pulling it apart though if it broke close to that end. I would like to replace the axles with stronger ones and I probally will later on.

The only way is with a long metal rod pushed through from the other side. Pat

[Blknight.aus]

A rare earth magnet firmly wedged into a bit of hose clamped onto a rod will also get them out...

you can also try a curved peice of 6mm rod threaded through the filler plug to drift the bit out of the center (if thats where its stuck)

once its out of the spider gear in the diff its surprisingly easy to get the pieces out, Ive even used my magnet on a stick with a torch to pull a 5-6 inch long chunk out of the front diff of a perentie.

[rovercare]

A rare earth magnet firmly wedged into a bit of hose clamped onto a rod will also get them out...

you can also try a curved peice of 6mm rod threaded through the filler plug to drift the bit out of the center (if thats where its stuck)

once its out of the spider gear in the diff its surprisingly easy to get the pieces out, Ive even used my magnet on a stick with a torch to pull a 5-6 inch long chunk out of the front diff of a perentie.

That's of course if your happy to leave chunks if metal floating around inside your diff...

[Blknight.aus]

you need to get that 6 inch chunk out of the diff before you can pull the diff to clean it out it was one of those days the prop was off , both swivels unbolted from the flanges and the good side cleared to get the driving rod in but the chunk kept falling back and wedging against the bearing carrier stopping us from pulling the diff carrier out.

I'd just been given one of those torches with the magnet on the end of an extending rod, in typical fashion gave it what the hell, why not and lo that little magnet on the rod pulled the chunk all the way up the axle tube.

Fortunately there was enough length left on the axle that we could do the Axle change without having to strip the Ball joint down.

[Pilbara130]

How much is it to replace with Ashcroft axels - Flanges - cvs and is it difficult to change out.

Cheers


Dan

[Didge]

The heavy duty axles for the rear from Paddocks in england are 360 pounds including vat plus postage which brings them awfully close to the $800 odd dollars I've seen quoted here. Don't know if they're ashcrofts though.

[Drover]

Hey Dan,

I got mine (front and rear half shafts, drive flanges and CV's) for $2200 delivered to the door, took 7 days to arrive. That was about 12months or so ago.

Ashcroft’s will break up the order so you can avoid the import taxes and you don't pay VAT (value added tax) as you are an over sea's customer.

Fitting is reasonable easy if your handy with the spanners. I changed over to oil lubed bearing while I was at it. That was just a matter of removing the inner seal and replacing the outer's with oil seal instead of the grease seals.

Cheers

[Didge]

No VAT? That's handy to know. I'm also not sure if their 300 pounds includes any delivery costs but assume it doesn't. Currently 300 pds = $464 AUD so allowing say 20 pounds or $30 you're saving around $200 AUD. Forgot, add $40 for flanges and yes the axles are Ashcrofts :)

[Drover]

Buy them direct from Ashcroft..
Front half shafts = 245Gbp
Rear half shafts = 260Gbp
Drive flanges =. 90Gbp per pair
CV's =. 455Gpb

Ashcroft Transmissions (http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php)


Cheers

[Reads90]

Surely Cheaper to get the stuff from High Tough than from ashcrofts. Which I believe to be stronger than ashcrofts anyway.

[Drover]

5 year warranty with Ashcroft, you won't get that anywhere else.....;)

[MLD]

With a detroit or TT you run the risk of destroying your centre diff.

Hi Isuzurover, I have a TT in the front of mine. Can you elaborate on what you mean in your quote? And how do you suggest to deal with a broken half shaft or CV in the front with a TT.

cheers MLD

[Yorkie]

Surely Cheaper to get the stuff from High Tough than from ashcrofts. Which I believe to be stronger than ashcrofts anyway.

i did a rear in the d2, hi-tough locally cheapest i could find was about $800-900.
called ashcrofts monday evening and they were at my door thursday afternoon, price $600. oh and there is that warranty, 5 years should see me through to the next car. :cool:

i found removing the broken piece in the diff once pushed out into the pumpkin, fencing wire bent into a hook, always keep some fencing wire handy. ;):)