PDA

View Full Version : Wading too deep...



Def_9
16th January 2012, 12:11 AM
Today in my ignorant wisdom decided to take my new 2011 defender 90 for a drive out to millstream in the North West and happened upon a creek crossing that I decided to cross. It was a little deeper than I would have liked and I ended up with water in the air box. now I have a few questions, the water seems to have entered in through the engine bay as the water level never got up to the intake in the front quarter, is there a common remedy for this? I've got a snorkel on the way, so will the intake hose/air box system be sealed when fitted? And I’m also concerned now about water in the diffs, timing case ect. Any opinions/ advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Lucas.

VladTepes
16th January 2012, 12:39 AM
The installer of the snorkel SHOULD definitely be ensuring that its sealed right to the air box, with nowhere for water to get in. That said. ARB didn't seal mine so it's worth checking.

If water was above the level of the diff breathers (not sure where they are on the new ones someone else will pipe up and help) or if the breathers are blocked, then it would be reasonable to assume that water got in. If you have an appropriate clean receptacle you could always drain the diff and see if the oil is that nice milky white full of water colour ! If it isn't either replace or reuse the existing oil if its pretty new.

ugu80
16th January 2012, 10:52 AM
Water crossing rule: WALK IT FIRST.

Rusnut
16th January 2012, 11:11 AM
Water crossing rule: WALK IT FIRST.

I am sure this information is very helpful to you def 9?

krispe
16th January 2012, 11:16 AM
Today in my ignorant wisdom decided to take my new 2011 defender 90 for a drive out to millstream in the North West and happened upon a creek crossing that I decided to cross. It was a little deeper than I would have liked and I ended up with water in the air box. now I have a few questions, the water seems to have entered in through the engine bay as the water level never got up to the intake in the front quarter, is there a common remedy for this? I've got a snorkel on the way, so will the intake hose/air box system be sealed when fitted? And I’m also concerned now about water in the diffs, timing case ect. Any opinions/ advice would be much appreciated.

Cheers, Lucas.

Lucas, have you done a 4wd course? Are you a member of a club?
Both of these can assist you, and a club can help with activities, discounts and many other helpful tips.:D

Kris

jddisco200tdi
16th January 2012, 11:42 AM
I would check both the rear diff oil and the fuel filter for water.
The breathers on diff and fuel tank are not very high, just terminating under the body.
The ducting between the air inlet and air box are not factory sealed and do allow air/water in. Either you or your snorkel installer will need to seal the ducting.

Regards

John D - Defender 110 2.4

Bardizzo
16th January 2012, 12:10 PM
If it was me and I went through water that deep, I would be changing all oils for peace of mind. But that's just me cos of the age of my landies.

kentkal
16th January 2012, 12:57 PM
The water may have entered the air box via the drain hole in the bottom of the box. If the filter element is not wet, you may have avoided serious engine trouble, here's hoping. As stated previously, for the cost of new oil all round, (swivel hubs and wheel bearings as well), it would be good insurance. Hope all turns out ok for you. We live and learn :)

ugu80
16th January 2012, 01:46 PM
for the cost of new oil all round, (swivel hubs and wheel bearings as well), it would be good insurance. Hope all turns out ok for you. We live and learn :)

I appreciate you probably don't have a lot of water crossings in Kalgoorlie, but in the eastern states we have things called rivers and creeks (they are long, snaking trenches with water in them). Unless its been sitting in water for some time, I don't think the swivel hubs and wheel bearings need attention just driving through water, otherwise we would be greasing them after every trip where you can service them in Kalgoorlie after crossing water because it only happens every second or third year. :p

101RRS
16th January 2012, 02:11 PM
I did maybe 20 creek crossings ranging from puddles to wheel height water and from the bow wave up to the top of the grill. I certainly will not be checking anything as it was not stopped for any length of time in the water - if you checked things like that, you would be doing it all the time. Different after say a trip to Cape York with deep water but not for other "normal trips".

As indicated - unless the water wet your air fliter and your engine still runs OK I would not be worrying about anything unless you know you have a dodgy seal or something like that in your drivetrain.

Garry

camel_landy
16th January 2012, 06:35 PM
IIRC - The max wading depth of a Defender is 550mm. No modifications made to the car will change this and wading any deeper is done at your own risk.

That said...

If it was me, I'd stick a raised air intake on and extend the axle & gearbox breathers. When driving, get a bow wave going and as others have said, walk the route first.

Beware - Water can be very dangerious. People forget that to begin with, if you drop a car into water, it will float! Drive into very deep water, the car will float downstream!

M

Gavo
16th January 2012, 08:08 PM
I know of a bloke who had water in the oil from a blown head gasket. He changed it the worked out he did not have enough oil on hand to change it. started it the way it was soon after the water boiled out and you could not tell that there had been water it it.
That was a 2.25 petrol in a II wonder what would happen if you submerged a td5.
I have had my county stranded in water and had to rebuild the starter and had water in front wheel bearings. My rear bearing are oil fed from the rear diff, it has no drive axle seals and series 3 axles.
I would have a look at the front wheel bearings first.
I have had my series II up to waste deep it got towed out and tow started and drive home with mushy wet seats. The gear box was full of water and the starter fields had shorted (paper don't like water). drove around with the crank handle for a few weeks till I got around to fix it.
It seem that they are getting fancy, quiet, faster and comfier but they are I feel loosing other things that made them what they were.

Def_9
16th January 2012, 08:19 PM
Thank you all for your advice its much appreciated.
So were is the best place to extend the breathers to, im assuming the front diff breather is already in the engine bay? do you go higher than this? and as for the rear diff, fuel and gear box do you run longer hoses to the same spot as the front? I've also read some put filters on the hoses is this a good idea?
my other question is what is the best sealant to use on the air intake hoses or what are some of the better methods of doing this?

Cheers Lucas.

Loubrey
16th January 2012, 08:34 PM
Def 9,

Best plan for breathers are using pipe junctions ( T's and the like) bring them all together in the engine bay near the snorkel and raise a single breather pipe up the back of the snorkel.

Great idea for 200/300Tdi's as they'll keep going as long as they breathe dry air, but slightly less relevant in a Td5 or Puma...

DEFENDERZOOK
17th January 2012, 11:10 AM
you don't have to drain the diffs and boxes to check for any water ingress.....
just pull out the filler plugs and if the oil doesn't come out use a dipstick of some sort....
i usually use a cable tie.....and dip that into the oil....if its milky.....then its got water in it......
if its clean.....then you should be fine.......

but this is a test for AFTER the vehicle has been driven and any water has had a chance to mix with the oil......
ie....if you just crossed the river and stopped straight away to check.....it wouldn't have had a chance to mix with the oil......
in this case....you would have to drain to find out......

cal415
17th January 2012, 01:49 PM
Def 9, you didnt say if there was any damage done? Its got me thinking about my puma and how to water proof it, i have a snorkel waiting to go on and have the intake side of things fairly well planned, breathers are another fairly easy one, that just leave the electrics, i beleive the ECU is mounted behind the motor on the firewall, does anyone know if its water proofed at all? water other electrics could be a problem with deep water crossings?

Drover
17th January 2012, 03:58 PM
Def 9, you didnt say if there was any damage done? Its got me thinking about my puma and how to water proof it, i have a snorkel waiting to go on and have the intake side of things fairly well planned, breathers are another fairly easy one, that just leave the electrics, i beleive the ECU is mounted behind the motor on the firewall, does anyone know if its water proofed at all? water other electrics could be a problem with deep water crossings?


Hey Mick,

The ECU is not water proof and likely not even water resistant, but it is quite high and directly behind the motor. So if its getting wet to any extent you are in water that is way to deep.

There are more electrics under the driver seat. Mulgo's X-Box is a perfect remedy, moving them up abot 200mm and provides more storage room in the now vacant seat box.

Cheers

KarlB
17th January 2012, 04:34 PM
I posted the following on another forum some time ago but I believe it is worth repeating here:

The recommended maximum wading depth for a Puma is 500 mm which is close to the sills. At 600 mm you have water on the floor in the front of the vehicle. At 750 mm you have water entering the back. At 900 mm you reach the bottom of the air intake, but at this depth your sensitive electronics and battery are under the water. From the external air intake, the ducting rises within the engine compartment with the bottom of the ducting (at its lowest point) being close to 1000 mm. We are talking some seriously deep water here. The Defender is not a boat. You MAY be able to get through such depths for a shortish distance but you MUST NOT STOP. At that depth you clearly should use some sort of sheet over the front of your vehicle to make a bow wave and to keep the water out of the engine bay. In water crossing, a raised air intake is not a snorkel as some would like to foolishly consider them. However they are useful to keep splashing and small waves, etc. from getting into the air intake. If the water is 500 mm or less then you should not need a wading sheet. You can change gear, etc. At depths greater than 600 mm you will start to loose traction because of flotation. This is a particularly serious issue if the water you are crossing is fast flowing. You also need to be mindful that if you cause any damage to your vehicle by crossing water deeper than the recommended maximum you may find that you are not be covered by warranty nor insurance.

There are a few simple rules:
1. Always walk the crossing first to check depth, currents, obstacles, etc
2. Is there a shallower alternative crossing?
3. If in any doubt: don't do it (much better to get home feeling a bit of a coward than to not get home at all)
4. Plan your recovery before you enter into the water (what are the consequences when you do get stuck?)
5. Prepare your vehicle and contents (wading sheet, vulnerable valuables raised, etc).
6. Select an appropriate gear (you do not want to change gear mid crossing)
7. Proceed cautiously but with determination (this is how you should tackle every serious obstacle)
8. After the crossing, dry your brakes and check your vehicle for water ingress.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

Bundalene
17th January 2012, 06:21 PM
Hi, if you have a snorkel fitted, you should not have water in your airbox, unless the water went over the roof.

People fitting these at some companies are doing the wrong thing by their customers by not sealing the air steam correctly - you may as well not have a snorkel in many cases. Many of people will never know as the raised air intake is a 'look good accessory' and never used in anger

The way they get around a correct and involved installation is to call the snorkel a 'raised air intake', thus avoiding having to waterproof the lines between the snorkel and the air filter.

I have gone into this a bit in the build we did on our Puma last year.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/115591-bundalenes-puma-project-2.html

If you had the snorkel installed yourself by an after market supplier, I would be going back and demand it be re-done and correctly waterproofed.

As for not wading in more than 500mm of water, for goodness sake, it is a Defender, put a sheet across the grill and go for it. We have ofter had water up to the windscreen wipers, as long as the crossing isn't too long.

I agree with the walking through streams first, having said that, we cross the Goyder a few times each year and you wouldn't put your big toe in there - too many crocks.


Erich

ZVDefender90
17th January 2012, 06:55 PM
Including all of the above advise here is another very important tip -
Don't forget to close the vents!

See photos below, it was like someone poured filthy smelly water all over the dash and out through the guages and dials lol. Not nice especially when I was 100km from home.

Also its very important that if wading through stagnant water check your radiator after you come out of the water for debris and general mud that can block your radiator / intercooler as this can affect air flow and cause very high temperatures. If you have a radiator wading muff then use it, or make a home made kit from some bungee cord and a rubber mat.

Here is a few pictures of me wading with the vents open last year and getting very wet and smelly :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/742.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/743.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/744.jpg

uninformed
17th January 2012, 07:55 PM
regarding water getting into the diffs, gearbox, transfer case etc....if oil can get out water can get in....added to this is the heat vs sudden cooling of water. Unless you drive out your driveway and cross a creek or have come to a stop and let your vehicle cool (think 1hr or more of cool time) all the running gear will be much hotter than the water temp...knowing landrovers and reading through here, you will get an appreciation of how hot the likes of the gearbox and especially the lt230 transfer case get....dunk these hot metal/alloy masses in a large body of water and things change quickly...some quicker than others.

so dont think you have to be parked in the creek eating lunch or wading through 2 meters of water for h20 to get into your running gear....

Def_9
17th January 2012, 08:46 PM
Thanks again for the advice,
[QUOTE=cal415;1609635]Def 9, you didnt say if there was any damage done? QUOTE]
As for any damage i am still yet to fully investigate all the potential problems. But i can say that i was aroung 150ks from home when I crossed the creek and stopped after crossing and checked the air box and found water, the filter was wet so i dried the airbox and the filter as much as possible and drove home with out any issues arising. its been parked since waiting for the time to check everything.

Cheers Lucas.

First90
20th January 2012, 07:40 AM
When I fitted a safari snorkel (I fully sealed all joints as best I could) to my 2010 def 90 I thought that my investigations confirmed that the diff and gear box breathers terminated up high at the rear of the engine bay.. Do puma defenders actually need the breathers extending? is this the sort of build quality thing that can differ greatly between defenders?

PAT303
20th January 2012, 10:06 AM
My Tdi and Tdci breathers are in the engine bay and I've only once had water in my oil and that was after a young guy drove my Tdi into a river that flodded the vehicle up to the steering wheel.Last month my puma waded through water all day everyday after the cyclone,the deepest 600mm on the gauge towing my camper but I hate water,I'll do everything I can to avoid it. Pat

Beckford
20th January 2012, 10:22 AM
my other question is what is the best sealant to use on the air intake hoses or what are some of the better methods of doing this?

I just did this exercise myself this morning. I used Selleys All Purpose Silcone, as I already had a tube of it in the shed.

I took off the top of the air filter and large rubber pipe connected to it. Un did all the screws and bolts etc, so I could giggle the ends of the pipes appart and smere silicone on them. There is very little room to get you hands in. Is there an easier way to do this?

Should I seal the drain hole in the bottom of the air filter box?, or is there an easy way of plugging it before a deep crossing?


Mulgo's X-Box is a perfect remedy, moving them up abot 200mm and provides more storage room in the now vacant seat box.

Ordered an X-Box from Mulgo yesterday. The instructions on his website look straight forward.

fender95vnt
20th January 2012, 11:53 AM
I did a bit of a trip before christmas and was so preoccupied with getting the right line I forgot to close the air vents

Fender Vs Macallister - YouTube

kentkal
20th January 2012, 12:46 PM
Thats one way to wash your feet:D

discojools
20th January 2012, 03:06 PM
Anybody local to the Mornington Peninsula got a Mulgo Xbox? Would like to see it installed and hear how installation went. This must help the wading depth once all the air intake etc has been properly waterproofed.

Chops
20th January 2012, 10:42 PM
Well, I'm feeling a bit lost with all this.
20+ years ago when I started driving my first 4x4 (series 3 swb ute), we had no lifts, "big tyres" were 30/1" Kumo's, no winch, nothing,, (ok, I had a highlift jack). We used to tackle everything and anything without a thought to getting water in anywhere. Consistantly we were crossing rivers etc which poured water over the bonet, (and in through the vents:eek:) . We did service our cars fairly well, maybe once a year ;), but never really found anything wrong in the "oil/water" dept.

I've treated all my 4x4's in the same manner. 2 x Toyotas, 1 x Disco.

Having just purchased my 110 Defender, we found ourselves up at Geehi at Xmas, and thus ventured to the Murray crossing at Tom Groggin Station. I've crossed this section of the river more times than I can remember, and for the first time in my life, I was apprahensive about crossing it in the Puma. :eek:
We did cross it,, twice even,, just because we could. :D The water was over the tyres.

My point is this, sometimes I think we stress too much on what our cars "cant/shouldn't" do, I think we forget what our cars "can" do. I do have a snorkle on, or is it just a "high rise", either way, I felt better with it on, even if its not sealed properly. But I will now check it :) , didnt worry about it on the day,.

I must say, I preferred the old days when we didnt discuss the pain/cost of things going wrong,, ;) we just got in and did it,,:twisted:

Lucas, my car has, I'm fairly sure, both breathers coming out in the engine bay, but I'll check this weekend and let you know. But you should check yours anyway for your own piece of mind. Its good to "know" your car.

101RRS
20th January 2012, 11:19 PM
Having just purchased my 110 Defender, we found ourselves up at Geehi at Xmas, and thus ventured to the Murray crossing at Tom Groggin Station. I've crossed this section of the river more times than I can remember, and for the first time in my life, I was apprahensive about crossing it in the Puma. :eek:
We did cross it,, twice even,, just because we could. :D The water was over the tyres.



I think you have reason to be cautious - I was also at Geehi just after Xmas and crossed Tom Groggin a few times - we went across OK (after one of us walked it) and went a couple of Kms along a track and then came back - when we got back to the crossing a jap dual cab towing a trailer had drowned and was just towed out - all the people ran down to watch us drain but we knew where to drive. The water was only wheel height but about 3' deep where the jappers had driven.

Garry

rovercare
21st January 2012, 04:19 AM
Water crossing rule: WALK IT FIRST.

I've driven rivers I wouldn't dare walk through!

Reads90
21st January 2012, 07:40 AM
Hi all
I have done a few water crossings in my time and learnt a few things

Is to is to never trust a snorkel is totally water proof and trust a company that fitted it , to have waterproofed it.

And also never assume a river, puddle or creek is not too deep

Here is a small creek that looks harmless but is a bit deeper than it looks

Creek Crossing - YouTube

Reads90
21st January 2012, 08:37 AM
Also if you want to extend your breathers then go to k mart or binning and get hose link irrigation hose and the connectors. Same size hose as the gen hose and the connectors just connect the gen to the hose link hose and you can take them right up to the top of the snorkel , all for about $20.

BTW depend how detailed you want to go. My old winch challenge 90 in the uk had the normal breathers ( axles gearbox, and transfer box) but I also had others too , timing cover , bell housing case, power steering res, injector pump.All going to the top of the snorkel. But that truck spent its life in crap


Ali

Beckford
23rd January 2012, 11:36 AM
my other question is what is the best sealant to use on the air intake hoses or what are some of the better methods of doing this?

Talking to Daniel from Mulgo, there is a silicone available which is "sensor safe".

And to answer my own question; you need to use silicone between the snorkel and where it attaches to the body.

Loubrey
24th January 2012, 09:50 AM
Very close call on a brook (creek) crossing in the UK a few years back. I was driving a 300Tdi 90 (Hard Top) that was pretty much comp spec (sealed safari snorkel, breathers ets) while volunteering with the Worcestershire Emergency Services during the annual floods. It was a cold (7C) rainy day and we've been out for around 4 hours towing stranded people when we came across a creek crossing I’ve done a 100 times in the past.

The heater was doing nothing more than steaming up the windscreen from too much water ingestion and there was no way I was walking any creek deeper than the top of my lined wellies. Should have on this occasion though – as I entered the steepish approach angle it very quickly became clear that we’ve got a problem. The nose kept going deeper until the water was well over it and starting to “fish tank” on the windscreen! Water was streaming in on every available orifice on the Deefer (and we all know how many there are!) and was rapidly rising in the cab, this all the time with good forward momentum. The back end was starting to float and I was being pushed to the left by a mild current.

Luckily the front wheels maintained enough traction and I managed to claw my way out on the other side. By the time I stopped on the far bank, the water was waste deep in the cab and the heater was spewing water out the defrosting vents (too slow in switching it off!). The car however never missed a beat and we obviously called it a night...

Lessons learned were thus:

1. Never assume a crossing that you know and have done before is the same depth as during the previous occasion!
2. 300Tdi’s remain the best purpose built 4x4 ever and when properly prepared will take you anywhere in the world (obviously in varying degrees of comfort!)
3. I was very stupid and very lucky during the whole episode and you simply have to make the effort to determine depth and underfoot conditions!

Cheers,

Lou

uninformed
24th January 2012, 12:51 PM
2 out of 3 isnt bad...........

PAT303
24th January 2012, 04:17 PM
When my Tdi went for a swim it never stopped even though the water was touching the bottom of the steering wheel,the tyres just churned up the gravel bottom and she stopped moving.The young bloke who did it just said it's a 4wd so it should be able to do it,the crossing was less than 200mtrs up stream. Pat

newhue
24th January 2012, 08:23 PM
Def 9, you didnt say if there was any damage done? Its got me thinking about my puma and how to water proof it, i have a snorkel waiting to go on and have the intake side of things fairly well planned, breathers are another fairly easy one, that just leave the electrics, i beleive the ECU is mounted behind the motor on the firewall, does anyone know if its water proofed at all? water other electrics could be a problem with deep water crossings?

I believe the puma fly by wire accelerator is a show stopper, I was told don't get it wet by the agent.

Realistically you would need to stop in 600-650mm of water to drench it, but I'm looking into the viability of having a spare sync'd to the ECU for a cape trip. This is the only susceptable bit left after a Mulgo X box is installed up to a depth of 700mm or so.
It amazes me the susceptible electronics aren't water proof, or at least resistant. I thought LR were leaders, or is that just Rangies, Disco's the the new poxy defender prototype.

discojools
26th January 2012, 09:30 AM
Has anybody had a failure as a result of the fly by wire throttle electrics being drowned? Maybe spraying with Lonolin would help?

Drover
26th January 2012, 10:06 AM
Just measured mine.

The lowest point of the "Fly-by-Wire" component (Sensor on throttle pedal) is at least 850mm from the ground.

The lowest point of the X-Box is about 25mm above that.

Both of the above measurements would only become an issue if you were to stop in water that deep.

If you continued to move through the body of water, the only thing to be aware of would be water dripping down from above onto the throttle sensor.

Just my thoughts.

uninformed
27th January 2012, 08:26 AM
When my Tdi went for a swim it never stopped even though the water was touching the bottom of the steering wheel,the tyres just churned up the gravel bottom and she stopped moving.The young bloke who did it just said it's a 4wd so it should be able to do it,the crossing was less than 200mtrs up stream. Pat

please tell me your response involved a big stick.

Psimpson7
27th January 2012, 08:52 AM
I believe the puma fly by wire accelerator is a show stopper, I was told don't get it wet by the agent.

.

I can't speak for the Puma, but I have on more than one occasion had the throttle completely submerged on my td5 with no issues whatsoever.

Beckford
27th January 2012, 12:10 PM
There are more electrics under the driver seat. Mulgo's X-Box is a perfect remedy, moving them up abot 200mm and provides more storage room in the now vacant seat box.

Installed Mulgo's X-Box yesterday. The instructions were excellent. Quality equipment.

Not sure if I have put the relays back in the same position. Will have to look under another Puma's seat when I get a chance. (I would label them first next time.)

My arm slightly touches the X-Box when changing gears. Should I remove the timber packers from under the cubby?

Drover
27th January 2012, 12:38 PM
My arm slightly touches the X-Box when changing gears. Should I remove the timber packers from under the cubby?

You will get used to changing gears with your arm resting on top of the cubby box and using your wrist for swapping the gogs.

Cheers

rick130
27th January 2012, 06:58 PM
[snip]
if you drop a car into water, it will float! Drive into very deep water, the car will float downstream!

M

Even 3000kg of 130 :angel:

My heart rate increased slightly :eek:

[edit] it was no where near as spectacular as the old Safari Snorkel video with the Jackaroo, but the river I went across was a mountain stream well and truly in flood and going bloody quickly.
I'll try and find the Jackaroo vid.

Here it is
Safari Snorkel - YouTube (http://youtu.be/CBODxhsPgPg)

rick130
27th January 2012, 07:01 PM
I've driven rivers I wouldn't dare walk through!


Yep.

Some are going a tad too quickly for a mere human.

isuzurover
27th January 2012, 07:12 PM
...People forget that to begin with, if you drop a car into water, it will float! Drive into very deep water, the car will float downstream!

M

We are talking about landrovers here... ;) they leak too fast to ever float...

This one obviously is much more water tight than a landie though.
Extreme water crossing toyota 4x4 - YouTube

rick130
27th January 2012, 07:14 PM
Ben, how did you embed that vid, ? I can't get the Jackaroo one above to work :(

isuzurover
27th January 2012, 07:21 PM
Ben, how did you embed that vid, ? I can't get the Jackaroo one above to work :(

Just cut and paste the youtube link and it embeds automatically.

e,g,
A Suzuki inside a lake - YouTube

was just a paste of: [usual bit].youtube.com/watch?v=WWyxuBEKQAw&feature=related

dullbird
27th January 2012, 10:28 PM
I have video of a series in a lake in the UK that was driving along and they didn't realise the depth they kept going hoping they would get out of it as they were not far off the bank and they completely submerged the car...
they put a rope on it pulled it out sprayed a bit of wd40 and fired it up and drove away..absolute testament to the car

KarlB
27th January 2012, 10:30 PM
Just a little bit off track in this thread but the DC100 Defender replacement has an 'official' wading depth of 750 mm.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

newhue
28th January 2012, 09:00 AM
Installed Mulgo's X-Box yesterday. The instructions were excellent. Quality equipment.

My arm slightly touches the X-Box when changing gears. Should I remove the timber packers from under the cubby?

I did because I though it was a bit high. As mentioned you will get used to
coming over the top of the box to change gears. You will also find you rest on it all day long, eat off it, read maps on it, etc etc

Mulgo
28th January 2012, 07:11 PM
Yes, timer packers under the cubby box need to be removed, as per instructions. Otherwise the cubby box is too high.

Cheers,
Daniel




-----------------------
Mulgo Pty Ltd
Expedition Vehicles & Equipment
69 Anderson Road, Mortdale NSW 2223
P 0438183507 - www.mulgo.com.au

purchase your 4WD equipment online:
www.expeditioncentre.com.au

Family Off Road Trailer:
www.missiontrailers.com.au

Tikirocker
3rd February 2012, 09:16 AM
I drove straight into this one and had to be pulled out ... I learned a big lesson. :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1450.jpg

Simon.

goingbush
15th May 2012, 03:21 PM
um hell...o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/761.jpg

Reads90
15th May 2012, 03:28 PM
um hell...o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/761.jpg

Ah the 1985 camel trophy with the 90's

Great year but rare to find on video

Last and only time I have seen it in full on video was in reception at land rover , Solihull

sashadidi
15th May 2012, 04:34 PM
this guy is pretty relaxed, from memory taken in russia a while ago.

Reads90
15th May 2012, 05:07 PM
See at 2.50 ish

Camel Trophy 1985 Borneo - YouTube

We have a saying in the uk , you know when it deep when your nuts get wet

goingbush
15th May 2012, 05:22 PM
oh dear, wet ECU

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/756.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/757.jpg

Reads90
15th May 2012, 05:41 PM
oh dear, wet ECU

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/756.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/757.jpg

Ok you win

That looks expensive

DeanoH
16th May 2012, 08:14 AM
So it's true! Cats can't swim.............:o

Deano:)

2stroke
16th May 2012, 12:16 PM
I don't know about the Pumas but my 300 TDi had a dust release valve on the air cleaner and a water trap in the air trunking (at the lowest point) before the air cleaner body, I couldn't see the point in raising the air intake without blocking these.

isuzurover
16th May 2012, 12:24 PM
I don't know about the Pumas but my 300 TDi had a dust release valve on the air cleaner and a water trap in the air trunking (at the lowest point) before the air cleaner body, I couldn't see the point in raising the air intake without blocking these.

These are (or should be) designed to seal when the engine is running - however over time they do perish.

Gerry (1103.9D ?) on here modified his air cleaner so that a baby bottle fite in place of the dust release valve. Seals but still allows visual inspection.

2stroke
16th May 2012, 04:50 PM
I ended up with a short length of tube to hold any dust/water (as applicable) with a screw in bung, just couldn't bring my self to rely on the valves, even if I were to use new ones, of course I now need to check them.