jz-is-fishing
16th January 2012, 07:32 PM
Been meaning to put this one up. I copied from another forum where I posted it. Apologies for any Americanisms, just thought it worthwhile for those who have considered it, especially since trailer towing is more common place down under.
I installed a Tru-Cool LPD Tranny cooler on the LR3. I know loads of people say you do not need one, but I felt i did. I have had the tranny overheat a few timnes, and recently had a full flush done and the fluid was black at about 100k miles. I'll be changing fluid more often. The overheating was on steep, long, rough, and mostly loose hills when wheeling. The slow movement probably aided in the overheating. I also have some big lights mounted on the bumper which likely block some airflow. So its in.
Easy enough install more time spent on research and thinking where to mount.
The model is the Tru-Cool 4543, its a plate and fin style with a BTU rating of 15,000 and a GVW (vehicle weight) of 20,000 pounds. The size is 7.25" (18.5cm) x 11" (28cm) x 3/4" (19cm) and has 3/8" (10mmish) barbed hose connectors. The kit comes with most of the hardware and instructions, but you'll want a bit more hose say 4-5 foot. Might want to get 1 x 3/8" - 3/8" brass male barbed connector - I think the kit comes with one though. I also used some larger hose to wrap around a section of the line where it may rub as I routed it up to the tranny cooler on the left hand side of the rig (right side when facing car), near the bottom corner of the radiator, with the foam insulation. No need to cut the OEM hoses just use the clamps and brass connector. BTW the Tru-Cool allows cold tranny fluid to pass through the top two plates, until it heats up and becomes thin enough to pass through all the plates - a good feature in my mind.
The plate and fin coolers allow more air to pass through which sounded good to me, rather than the stacked plate type which also pretty cool.
I cut down the mounting brackets supplied with the kit and used two existing screw holes in the magnesium front frame at the top of the cooler and drilled two holes in the skin at the bottom, where I put in 2 more bolts using 2 more pieces of the cut down mounting brackets supplied. Painted up the drilled holes to prevent rust and the cut down brackets so they are black.
It fits well and is bomber strong, mounted this way, clears the other cooler and car parts plus lets the grill snap back in as it did before. I'm thinking that the 3/4" depth is probably the max although a 1" thick cooler might also work with this type of mount, also any wider and the diagonal bars would have been in the way. It is possible to mount lower down/underside, but then its not in the fans line of sight as well and with my rig the steel plate has even less air flow through it. I did not spend too much time considering or researching a mount down lower, but believe it would take more ingenious mounting brackets.
Once your done with the mounting its a good idea to re-tighten up the hose connections all the way around, as these are likely to become a little loose after a few days or a week. BTW the only parts you'll need to remove to get access are the front grill and the plastic radiator guard on the left hand side.
I have noticed, according to the engine temp gauge, that my engine temp is running less hot. Usually it sits exactly half way between the marks and now it is a few degrees of the compass below this point.
PDF attached for tranny cooler parts and description and a photo of the cooler installed (note the small black plastic dudad in front of the cooler and down low is the outside temp guage, as it has been re-located because of my bumper).
Note the increase in hose length and the filling of the cooler will probably take about a 1/4 - 1/2 quart/litre of additional fluid, plus any lost. I had mine put in at the time of the flush I had done, so the flush did not let fluid pass through the cooler.
Cheers
I installed a Tru-Cool LPD Tranny cooler on the LR3. I know loads of people say you do not need one, but I felt i did. I have had the tranny overheat a few timnes, and recently had a full flush done and the fluid was black at about 100k miles. I'll be changing fluid more often. The overheating was on steep, long, rough, and mostly loose hills when wheeling. The slow movement probably aided in the overheating. I also have some big lights mounted on the bumper which likely block some airflow. So its in.
Easy enough install more time spent on research and thinking where to mount.
The model is the Tru-Cool 4543, its a plate and fin style with a BTU rating of 15,000 and a GVW (vehicle weight) of 20,000 pounds. The size is 7.25" (18.5cm) x 11" (28cm) x 3/4" (19cm) and has 3/8" (10mmish) barbed hose connectors. The kit comes with most of the hardware and instructions, but you'll want a bit more hose say 4-5 foot. Might want to get 1 x 3/8" - 3/8" brass male barbed connector - I think the kit comes with one though. I also used some larger hose to wrap around a section of the line where it may rub as I routed it up to the tranny cooler on the left hand side of the rig (right side when facing car), near the bottom corner of the radiator, with the foam insulation. No need to cut the OEM hoses just use the clamps and brass connector. BTW the Tru-Cool allows cold tranny fluid to pass through the top two plates, until it heats up and becomes thin enough to pass through all the plates - a good feature in my mind.
The plate and fin coolers allow more air to pass through which sounded good to me, rather than the stacked plate type which also pretty cool.
I cut down the mounting brackets supplied with the kit and used two existing screw holes in the magnesium front frame at the top of the cooler and drilled two holes in the skin at the bottom, where I put in 2 more bolts using 2 more pieces of the cut down mounting brackets supplied. Painted up the drilled holes to prevent rust and the cut down brackets so they are black.
It fits well and is bomber strong, mounted this way, clears the other cooler and car parts plus lets the grill snap back in as it did before. I'm thinking that the 3/4" depth is probably the max although a 1" thick cooler might also work with this type of mount, also any wider and the diagonal bars would have been in the way. It is possible to mount lower down/underside, but then its not in the fans line of sight as well and with my rig the steel plate has even less air flow through it. I did not spend too much time considering or researching a mount down lower, but believe it would take more ingenious mounting brackets.
Once your done with the mounting its a good idea to re-tighten up the hose connections all the way around, as these are likely to become a little loose after a few days or a week. BTW the only parts you'll need to remove to get access are the front grill and the plastic radiator guard on the left hand side.
I have noticed, according to the engine temp gauge, that my engine temp is running less hot. Usually it sits exactly half way between the marks and now it is a few degrees of the compass below this point.
PDF attached for tranny cooler parts and description and a photo of the cooler installed (note the small black plastic dudad in front of the cooler and down low is the outside temp guage, as it has been re-located because of my bumper).
Note the increase in hose length and the filling of the cooler will probably take about a 1/4 - 1/2 quart/litre of additional fluid, plus any lost. I had mine put in at the time of the flush I had done, so the flush did not let fluid pass through the cooler.
Cheers