Original paint scheme under the hood etc.

[Warb]

Whilst I'm not attempting a totally "back to factory" restoration, I'd like to stick to the original spec. where possible.

As far as painting goes it would appear that on the SWB '59 SII in question, the body panels, tub, seat base etc. were largely unpainted in areas that were not on view - underneath, in underseat locker etc. It would also appear that the tub was painted in situ, as there is no paint where the brackets on the rear chassis crossmember attach. Is this all correct? This vehicle has been repainted several times, so the original details are hard to spot!

Under the hood, would the various steel brackets, pedal boxes etc. have been painted body colour?

Any help appreciated!

[geodon]

Warb, be careful you don't earn yourself the sobriquet: "Rivet Counter"!

I don't have a long history but on mine I found:

*under the guards are paint free and rightly so, it's aluminium. Sooooo, anything ally & not on show SHOULD be au naturelle???
ie under the floors, seat box etc. Good for me, given the price of paint!

* steel bracing under under the bonnett is black (ref James Taylor's book: Series 2 & 2A Specification Guide.) But is the underside on the bonnett bare ally?

* I notice that galv is used a the "Tough Guy's Chrome" which is good until it wears out & you get rust. I'm making do here with steel wool & a bit of rattle can Cold Galv Paint but am open to suggestions.

[Warb]

This vehicle is so far from authentic "rivet counter" fodder that I don't think there's much risk!! But as I have to paint all the bits I figured I might as well get them close to original.

Under the seat base is unpainted, but inside the guards have all been sprayed with a chassis black, as has much of the engine bay. Hard to tell if there was an original black paint underneath, but green is easier to spot!

As far as the gal trim goes, mine has been painted with a grey paint. It looks OK from a (large) distance........! We use various Cold Gal paints on farm equipment, to protect welded areas on galvanised items etc. We also use another aerosol products the name of which I can't recall, but it is a cheaper product designed to spray over welds on galvanised metal. Cold Gal does a good job of protecting metal, the cheaper product shows rust after a year or two. Neither really look like real galvanising, but if all the metal is the same there is no point of reference so it would be harder to tell. I'm investigating getting mine regalvanised properly, but that obviously involves taking it all off........ When I put it back on I'll use Universal rivets (not round head) and maybe add an extra couple - that'll confuse the "counters" ;)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The areas of apparently bare aluminium were actually coated with clear etch primer at manufacture which only lasted for a short time before corrosion set in.

[Warb]

The areas of apparently bare aluminium were actually coated with clear etch primer at manufacture which only lasted for a short time before corrosion set in.

That would seem to suggest that the panels were completely primed inside and out, but only the outside had a topcoat applied? Whilst they are hanging in the spray booth it's easy enough to prime all surfaces, but then it would become tempting to top coat as well......

[Lotz-A-Landies]

That would seem to suggest that the panels were completely primed inside and out, but only the outside had a topcoat applied? Whilst they are hanging in the spray booth it's easy enough to prime all surfaces, but then it would become tempting to top coat as well......A spray booth? That sounds awfully fancy for a Land Rover assembly plant.

I think it was a cost thing. The UK was still on wartime ration cards right through the 1950s and reducing costs was a significant impetus. If you could get away with not painting, they did, after all you only needed colour on the outside surfaces and passenger areas.

Interestingly, replacement panels were primed inside and out and not clear primer. So if you had an original vehicle with one damaged panel you had the dilemma of painting only the outside Deep Bronze Green and having the burnt red primer sticking out from under the guard like a sore thumb.

[peterg1001]

As far as the gal trim goes, mine has been painted with a grey paint. It looks OK from a (large) distance........! We use various Cold Gal paints on farm equipment, to protect welded areas on galvanised items etc. We also use another aerosol products the name of which I can't recall, but it is a cheaper product designed to spray over welds on galvanised metal. Cold Gal does a good job of protecting metal, the cheaper product shows rust after a year or two. Neither really look like real galvanising, but if all the metal is the same there is no point of reference so it would be harder to tell. I'm investigating getting mine regalvanised properly, but that obviously involves taking it all off........

If you want the story on galvanising, see Installing the galvanising and electrics (http://www.greenacre.biz/landrover/969_galandelectrics/969_galandelectrics.htm). Diana threatened me with the naughty corner if I named and shamed the b*stards, but call me if you want to know the details.

I noticed some rust patches on one of the bits of gal last weekend, so I'll now paint the crap gal job.

If you want to paint, try an etch primer (or cold gal if you want to go the extra mile) then use Killrust Aluminium paint as a top coat. I've used it in a couple of patch jobs, and I can't see where the gal stops and the paint starts.

Peter

[Lotz-A-Landies]

... Diana threatened me with the naughty corner if I named and shamed the b*stards, but call me if you want to know the details.
...All power corrupts, but I didn't make the rules.

BTW I've met people who would pay to sit in the naughty corner. But that was another time in another place and what seems like a lifetime ago. I'll talk no more about that subject. :twisted:

[Warb]

A spray booth? That sounds awfully fancy for a Land Rover assembly plant.

I was thinking more of when I have it hanging in the spray booth.... tempting to topcoat as well as prime!

When you say "clear" primer, do you mean colourless (AKA "water clear")? I've only used such products when the base material (often timber, sometimes polished metals) is to be on display. Other than that I've almost always used grey or white.