Real World D4 fuel consumption

[JayBee75]

Hi guys, looking at changing the D2 over for a new D4, went into the dealer today and it was pretty hard to get someone to sell me a car, walking away with a tech sheet 1 minute of someone's time and my total disbelief in their very poor sales skills, which if they asked me the right questions would have got further, maybe even a signature, but I digress.........;)

My question to the D4 owners out there in particular 3.0l owners is how are they finding the consumption. I know it's going to be alot better than a V8 D2(just:angel:) but for such a big car I am amazed at the claims around the 10 mark. I do prefer to measure in 'real life terms' in the sense of $120 fill I get 600ks hwy and city etc. I find the liters per hundred really does not put everyday situation into perspective.

So out of interest how many k's are the d4 owners getting out of a tank? Btw what is the tanks capacity? The salesman had no clue, I assume 80 odd liters.

Thanks

[Graeme]

My 3.0 with rural use normally shows a distance to empty of around 680 kms on a full tank. This is about correct unless my driving circumstances change. My average fuel consumption display has been adjusted so that it reads quite accurately with my normal driving and it normally shows between 10.5 and 11.5 L/100 kms. Low consumption is not top priority with my driving but I do avoid using fuel unnecessarily. I often use the 3.0's torque using command shift rather than allowing the engine to rev.

[ryrrek]

Around 10.2 to 10.5 in day to day commuting / around town driving. Under 8.5 on long highway runs.

[BobD]

The dealer told me the tank is 84l useable.

I have a long range fuel tank added and after driving from Bathurst to Port Pirie on the way back to Perth after buying the car in Parramatta, I put just over 100l in the long range tank and only 50l in the main tank, despite it telling me I only had 30km to empty with the red light on.

On the trip back to Perth it was getting about 12l/100km with the cruise control set to 119 on the Hema GPS. Since then I have been getting less than 10 around town and in the country at speeds of up to 110kph.

On Sunday the instantaneous fuel consumption was up to around 60l/100km in soft sand for a long period of time but even then the average only increased from 9.5 to 11.1 on the computer after 50km in the sand.

By the way, the disco 4 is incredible in soft sand and runs rings around my 6.5 Chev diesel powered GQ Patrol with 12.5 x 33 inch tyres, even with the standard Goodyears . The only problem is my pristine new to me car now has bush pin striping!

[RBT]

I've been recording 'actual' running costs since picking up a new D4 29 June '11.

Best is $95.81 for 812km.

Table below (hopefully it formats OK) is a record of my experience... aside the perma-grin!

Note:
Refill:
1 - high due to Dealership running
5,7,13 - mostly city crawl stop-start
2,6,8 - mostly highway
rest - around town, to-from work, in the ACT

*$/lt - includes discount voucher

Actuals
Refill Date Lts Cost Km $/lt Ltr/100
1 3/07/2011 43.15 $61.48 361 $1.42 11.95
2 3/07/2011 56.70 $80.80 578 $1.43 9.81
3 9/07/2011 39.50 $56.05 371 $1.42 10.65
4 14/07/2011 28.53 $40.49 269 $1.42 10.61
5 15/07/2011 5.41 $8.00 48 $1.48 11.27
6 16/07/2011 70.50 $95.81 812 $1.36 8.68
7 18/07/2011 22.89 $33.85 193 $1.48 11.86
8 18/07/2011 19.50 $27.93 218 $1.43 8.94
9 23/07/2011 73.86 $99.34 678 $1.34 10.89
10 31/07/2011 70.95 $97.83 646 $1.38 10.98
11 11/08/2011 74.10 $97.73 688 $1.32 10.77
12 21/08/2011 60.92 $84.01 571 $1.38 10.67
13 28/08/2011 35.66 $49.04 312 $1.38 11.43
14 3/09/2011 49.01 $69.94 477 $1.43 10.27
15 11/09/2011 73.80 $100.01 677 $1.36 10.90
16 23/09/2011 71.58 $98.70 662 $1.38 10.81
17 29/09/2011 74.21 $103.08 687 $1.39 10.80
18 20/10/2011 76.28 $102.92 696 $1.35 10.96
19 1/11/2011 70.67 $92.94 651 $1.32 10.86
20 13/11/2011 68.08 $92.38 656 $1.36 10.38
21 24/11/2011 55.12 $80.98 510 $1.47 10.81
22 2/12/2011 74.78 $97.89 698 $1.31 10.71
23 20/12/2011 74.28 $102.44 677 $1.38 10.97

[discotwinturbo]

My 3.0 with rural use normally shows a distance to empty of around 680 kms on a full tank. This is about correct unless my driving circumstances change. My average fuel consumption display has been adjusted so that it reads quite accurately with my normal driving and it normally shows between 10.5 and 11.5 L/100 kms. Low consumption is not top priority with my driving but I do avoid using fuel unnecessarily. I often use the 3.0's torque using command shift rather than allowing the engine to rev.

Graeme.....how did you adjust the fuel consumption to give a more accurate reading ? Is this a dealer fix ?
Mine hovers around 1.5 litres per 100 out. It's pretty poor when computers should be accurate.....maybe poor programming.
It was looking good, until I started checking it at each fill. I have found that I use about 1 litre per 100 more than my touareg, but it is heavier.....but I also use a lot less right foot then when I drive the touareg.

[Graeme]

I used Faultmate to change the CCF fuel consumption adjustment factor from the original +7% to -4% after much monitoring.

[eddomak]

There is quite a lot of information on this exact topic on an existing thread here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/132129-d4-3-0td-fuel-consumption.html

Cheers,
Edwin.

[JayBee75]

Thanks Guys, interesting figures.

So the tank is 84 litres, which is the same as the D2

Would be interested to see other people Klm's per tank, but it looks like on avg people are getting around the 800k mark, for a $100-$120 fill dependant on the price of Diesel?

[trevorj]

JayBee: on a recent 7K trip, perth-nullabour-lake eyre-lake torrens and surrounds, my D4 3L did 11.7 l/100kms overall. Included a fair bit of dune, claypan low-range in SA, and a high roof rack load the whole way. Consumption calculated empirically - sum of all fuel put in vs odometer reading finish-start. Without a LR tank, this gives theoretical range of about 700kms, and in practice (if no LR tank or jerries) then gives me a practical range of ~600kms. For our SA trip I carried 2 jerries, and practical range of ~1000 kms. Of course totally depends on the mix of on and off road work, but this might help you work out what to plan for, on an extended camping/highway trip. My experience I think seems fairly typical of the recent D4s.

[outasight]

I don't get much more than 600-700 REAL km's between fills around town. Not trying for economy & almost always have climate control ON.

Regards,

Les.

[Ferret]

So the tank is 84 litres, which is the same as the D2

D2 is 95 litres, at least mine was.

[Redback]

Thanks Guys, interesting figures.

So the tank is 84 litres, which is the same as the D2

Would be interested to see other people Klm's per tank, but it looks like on avg people are getting around the 800k mark, for a $100-$120 fill dependant on the price of Diesel?

Tank for the D2 is 95 usable litres.

As for the fuel economy for the D4, so far for us, 12.5l/100ks is the best we have achieved, that not going on the fuel calculater, that's doing the litres used, distance travelled when touring around, worst we have had was 19.96l/100ks, towing the camper offroad.

D4 is 12000ks old.

Baz.

[mowog]

I can get over 2000klm around town... And around 1200-1500klm when towing...

Long Live "The Long Ranger"

But it does dint the wallet when you put 160l of diesel in... :eek:

[Tombie]

Tank for the D2 is 95 usable litres.

As for the fuel economy for the D4, so far for us, 12.5l/100ks is the best we have achieved, that not going on the fuel calculater, that's doing the litres used, distance travelled when touring around, worst we have had was 19.96l/100ks, towing the camper offroad.

D4 is 12000ks old.

Baz.

Wow Baz... Are you serious?

I got under 10's driving back from Melbourne (measured, not gauged) and getting about 10.4 around town.

Your foot still heavy? Or just enjoying the new found power?

I'm guessing the rig is rather heavy now...

[JayBee75]

D2 is 95 litres, at least mine was.

95! Hmm, I have only ever filled putting in up to 85litres at the very most, so basically I have more range in the tank then..... funny as i seem to drive for ages with the fuel light on, and am not one to go to vapour as its not good for the car.

Do you know at how many k's to go does the light come on at? 20-30k's?

Thanks

[JayBee75]

I don't get much more than 600-700 REAL km's between fills around town. Not trying for economy & almost always have climate control ON.

Regards,

Les.

Thanks Les, that gives a good understanding of where its at, not bad really for 2T+car! Better than a Commadore, or Falcon and alot more useable.

Used to have a X5 Diesel, out of 80 litres used to get up to 800k's around town, up to 1000 hwy, but then again the wife used to drive it most so it got alot less......;)

[Ferret]

95! Hmm, I have only ever filled putting in up to 85litres at the very most, so basically I have more range in the tank then..... funny as i seem to drive for ages with the fuel light on, and am not one to go to vapour as its not good for the car.

Do you know at how many k's to go does the light come on at? 20-30k's?

Thanks

My V8 D2 was about the same. Read light comes on, drive around for a while, eventually fill up and it takes ~85 litres. So there was a fair margin in reserve, ~50km (I'm talking V8).

My 3.0l D4 - well I don't really keep track of things. When you go from a V8 to a 3.0l diesel anything you get is many times better than what you're use to. So fuel consumption is always great.

My feeling is I get average of what people say here. I get in the high 9s on a trip (no way I would in the 8s though) and I get high 11s around town but I like my right foot and my town trips tend to short so I would not discount stories of people doing quite a bit better than me.

[Graeme]

Wow Baz... Are you serious?

I got under 10's driving back from Melbourne (measured, not gauged) and getting about 10.4 around town.Whilst LR's consumption figures for the 3.0 are better than the 2.7, it seems that the 3.0 is considerably worse for general use especially using real fuel figures. Perhaps the 3.0 is better when towing heavy loads.

[lrdef110]

Got to agree with you Graeme, I'm definitely getting worse fuel consumption out of the D4 than I got with the D3 - for exactly the same set up vehicle. My tow comsumptions (towing a 3 tonne plus Kedron C'van) for the D4 is only marginally better than the D3.

[lrdef110]

That is a 3.0 litre D4 compared to a 2.7 l D3.

[Graeme]

Does a 2.7 D4 with its different engine management ecu that appears to provide more low-down torque get better real figures than a late model D3?

[Tombie]

Does a 2.7 D4 with its different engine management ecu that appears to provide more low-down torque get better real figures than a late model D3?

Comparing with Dads D3 which is identical as far as accessories etc (so one would assume weights are close and aero drag similar) yes... My D4 is around 1-1.5l/100km better than his.

My engine is also only 4k old, his is 16k old.

[~Rich~]

Comparing with Dads D3 which is identical as far as accessories etc (so one would assume weights are close and aero drag similar) yes... My D4 is around 1-1.5l/100km better than his.

My engine is also only 4k old, his is 16k old.

Jeeze you Dad does not do too much driving!

[Weird Al]

I have a 2.7 D4 and it gets about 10.5L/100 (actual not optimistic trip computer) around town, and the best I have done on the highway is 8.5, which was Canberra to Syd and return, sitting on about 110-ish. Towing an Ultimate Camper trailer in the hills it gets into the 13's.

Its interesting how regardless of road speed, the D4 always wants to sit at 1900rpm, I guess to keep it near peak torque and make the car more responsive.

This means at 80kmh its stays in 5th, but if you drive up to 100 it will change to 6th and stay there even if you slow down to 80 again. Or if you manually shift it to 6th then go back to auto its happy to stay in 6th and do 1300rpm.

[TerryO]

Its interesting how regardless of road speed, the D4 always wants to sit at 1900rpm, I guess to keep it near peak torque and make the car more responsive.

This means at 80kmh its stays in 5th, but if you drive up to 100 it will change to 6th and stay there even if you slow down to 80 again. Or if you manually shift it to 6th then go back to auto its happy to stay in 6th and do 1300rpm.


That is exactly what my D3 does now as well since I got the software upgrades done.

How many people on here take into account when doing their fuel consumption figures that there speedo is out because of the incorrect calibration for the standrd tyre size?

As has been mentioned previously by others if your D3/4 has 265x60x18's fitted instead of the standard size factory fitment then your speedo reading will be true. This will change your actual mileage / fuel useage numbers by a reasonable amount either way.

cheers,
Terry

[Graeme]

Its interesting how regardless of road speed, the D4 always wants to sit at 1900rpm, I guess to keep it near peak torque and make the car more responsive.
CC causes the gbox to use a shift programme more suited to constant speed so drops to 6th sooner.

[Celtoid]

Thanks Les, that gives a good understanding of where its at, not bad really for 2T+car! Better than a Commadore, or Falcon and alot more useable.

Used to have a X5 Diesel, out of 80 litres used to get up to 800k's around town, up to 1000 hwy, but then again the wife used to drive it most so it got alot less......

I hear the onboard computer isn't super accurate but I guess with everybodies input you get a feeling for the fact that the beast does pretty well. I'm not sure how often the system 'averages' the numbers, so if I'm looking for something more specific I reset the trip meter.

I just spent the best part of the week on Fraser Island and was often in low range Sand Mode. 13/100L was the worst I got.

Today on the cruise home, I was getting between 7 & 8 before I hit traffic where it then moved to just over 9.

A 3.0l D4 is over 2.6 dry.....if I remember rightly. Full of people, fuel and stuff, work on the best part of 3T.

Cheers,

Kev.

[Weird Al]

That is exactly what my D3 does now as well since I got the software upgrades done.

How many people on here take into account when doing their fuel consumption figures that there speedo is out because of the incorrect calibration for the standrd tyre size?

As has been mentioned previously by others if your D3/4 has 265x60x18's fitted instead of the standard size factory fitment then your speedo reading will be true. This will change your actual mileage / fuel useage numbers by a reasonable amount either way.

cheers,
Terry

I think you will find with modern cars the speedo and odometer are two completely different things, its all just computer data but is processed differently.

That is the odometer is pretty much spot on, but the speedo will intentionally read low.

This is because our legislation states that the speedo shall read accurate or low, but never high. That is when you spoeedo says 100kmh you are doing 95 to 100 kmh....but never 105.

So I agree that the speedo would be more accurate with bigger rubber, but are you sure the odo is out in the first place?

[TerryO]

So your saying that if I drove for exactly one hour at exactly 100 kph as per the D3's speedo but had 265x60x18's on instead of the standard fitment 255x60x18's then the odo would say 98.5 kilometres has been travelled instead of 100 kilometres? I base this on the fact that there is roughly a 1.5% difference in diameter between these two sized tyres?

Even with two computers I'd be intrigued to know how the odometer knows to auto correct for different size tyres?

cheers,
Terry

[Graeme]

I think you will find with modern cars the speedo and odometer are two completely different things, its all just computer data but is processed differently.
The D4 has different parameters in the CCF for each of real speed, odometer, speedometer and CC. Real speed uses the tyre size (not necessarily exact due to nominal diameter only), odometer uses the tyre dynamic rolling radius (can be exact), the speedo has 2 "market" options of the real speed 3.5%+2kph or 0%+2kph with the ex-factory setting being 3.5%+2kph and CC uses a nominated% with a nominated kph (set the same as the speedo market).

BTW the speedo reads faster not slower than actual, as per your example.

[Redback]

I have a 2.7 D4 and it gets about 10.5L/100 (actual not optimistic trip computer) around town, and the best I have done on the highway is 8.5, which was Canberra to Syd and return, sitting on about 110-ish. Towing an Ultimate Camper trailer in the hills it gets into the 13's.

Its interesting how regardless of road speed, the D4 always wants to sit at 1900rpm, I guess to keep it near peak torque and make the car more responsive.

This means at 80kmh its stays in 5th, but if you drive up to 100 it will change to 6th and stay there even if you slow down to 80 again. Or if you manually shift it to 6th then go back to auto its happy to stay in 6th and do 1300rpm.

Our 2.7l D4 won't do anything under 1600rpm in 4th, 5th or 6th.

Baz.

[Tombie]

Jeeze you Dad does not do too much driving!

I know :eek: Bloody terrible seeing the vehicle just sit there (and knowing I put 3000km on it)

But he lives on the edge of a Golf Course, is retired, and plays a lot of golf...
His Golf buggy has more Kms on it (just opens gate and drives beside the 18th fairway to the club house)

In fact, they retired and purchased 2 brand new vehicles - neither has many km on it...

[sniegy]

I know :eek: Bloody terrible seeing the vehicle just sit there (and knowing I put 3000km on it)

But he lives on the edge of a Golf Course, is retired, and plays a lot of golf...
His Golf buggy has more Kms on it (just opens gate and drives beside the 18th fairway to the club house)

In fact, they retired and purchased 2 brand new vehicles - neither has many km on it...
I can see a project in the near future coming on :wasntme:

[Weird Al]

The D4 has different parameters in the CCF for each of real speed, odometer, speedometer and CC. Real speed uses the tyre size (not necessarily exact due to nominal diameter only), odometer uses the tyre dynamic rolling radius (can be exact), the speedo has 2 "market" options of the real speed 3.5%+2kph or 0%+2kph with the ex-factory setting being 3.5%+2kph and CC uses a nominated% with a nominated kph (set the same as the speedo market).

BTW the speedo reads faster not slower than actual, as per your example.

Graeme.

Ha I hate this sort of thing....it would be so much easier to explain verbally with many hand gestures.:)

Perhaps it was the bad spelling, but in my example the speedo does read faster,

"That is when you spoeedo says 100kmh you are doing 95"

Oh yes and pardon my ignorance but whats a CCF and a CC (cruise control?)


TerryO

No what I meant was....in standard form with standard tyres in my D4 when travelling for an hour at an indicated 100kmh.

The speedometer will be reading low and I will actually be travelling at a speed closer to 95kmh but the odometer will be correct and I will have covered 100km.

In the A.C.T. they have odometer marker posts on the side of the highway for 5km, when I drive past and set the tip to zero at the zero mark, by the time I get to the 5km mark my trip meter is out by less than 20m. So 20m out of 5000m is 0.4%, much more accurate than the speedometer which says 100kmh when my GPS says 95kmh.

So if I were to change to larger tyres the speedo would become more accurate but in turn the odo would read less, as I don't know that it can auto correct for that sort of thing. What I mean is just an intentional offset between the odo and speedo from the factory. Clear as mud eh...:(

Redback

"Our 2.7l D4 won't do anything under 1600rpm in 4th, 5th or 6th."

You're a little harsh on the old D4. Now having started my driving career in V8's im used to plenty of grunt from 1000rpm, I will admit that even for a diesel the 2.7 does not have much 'grunt' bellow 1600rpm. However whilst no rocket ship my D4 seems happy enough to motor along most arterial roads at 80kmh at 1350rpm without labouring.

But yes much below that it "won't do anything.":angel:

[Graeme]

CCF is the Car Configuration File where all sorts of parameters about the vehicle are stored. Some parameters are for information only but others are used to drive various functions, such as the ABS ecu calculating speed from tyre size. Yes, CC indicating cruise control.

My 3.0 growls loudly when made to work at very low revs.

[JayBee75]

Thanks Guys,

My only last question around the real world consumption of the 3.0L D4 would be is there a reflash or tune upgrade that is available in the market?

[gghaggis]

Thanks Guys,

My only last question around the real world consumption of the 3.0L D4 would be is there a reflash or tune upgrade that is available in the market?

Sort of. There are a couple of tuners who can reflash the ECM, but it requires removal of the ECM as it has to be done on the test-bench. That means sending it off to Brisbane or wherever the tuner's test rig is located (DMS is in Brisbane).

The alternative is an interceptor box (a "chip") - not as versatile as a reflash, but they're cheaper and there are some fairly decent ones available.

Cheers,

Gordon

[flotty1974]

I've just come across to Sydney from Adelaide while towing a 2 horse angle load and loaded to the hilt with stuff for the Sydney Royal. Coming across the Hay plains I ended up having the dash tell me that I was getting 18lt. So here are my two questions. Is this what some people with big vans and other large floats are getting or are they getting better? and secondly, is there someone in Sydney near Blacktown that I can have my ecu hooked up to run a quick check before i head back across the plains? Cheers in advance.

[discotwinturbo]

I've just come across to Sydney from Adelaide while towing a 2 horse angle load and loaded to the hilt with stuff for the Sydney Royal. Coming across the Hay plains I ended up having the dash tell me that I was getting 18lt. So here are my two questions. Is this what some people with big vans and other large floats are getting or are they getting better? and secondly, is there someone in Sydney near Blacktown that I can have my ecu hooked up to run a quick check before i head back across the plains? Cheers in advance.

We travelled 210 kms each way on a highway run last weekend to Capel and back for an ODE.

Indicated was 16.5....actual was 18.9.

Our trailer is a triple axle angle load weighing in at 3.5 tonne.

Brett....

[flotty1974]

We travelled 210 kms each way on a highway run last weekend to Capel and back for an ODE.

Indicated was 16.5....actual was 18.9.

Our trailer is a triple axle angle load weighing in at 3.5 tonne.

Brett....

Thanks for that Brett, the weird thing was I seemed to get better economy in the Hills along the Hume. I recon I was fitting a side wind at the time as well which doesn't help. You wouldn't kow what a 200 would get with the same weight??

Ian

[LGM]

Without going into lots of detail I travel around 120 to 140 kms per working day most of which is at highway speeds. Like most here my speedo or should it be 'rough speed indicator' is not that accurate with 116km/h (110km/h speed zone) eliciting nil response from the constabulary, not even a glance my way?

So given that level of error mentioned above you can take what you want from the L per 100km readout on my trip computer. Anyhow according to the D4 trip computer I averaged 10.3L per 100km over my latest longer trip (478km). This was with just the vehicle (2011 D4 HSE) my wife and myself and some light luggage travelling at around 118 km/h indicated speed. Yes I did pass the police mobile speed traps on this trip and no they did not stop me?

Given this (computed?) level of economy is way better than some of my previous vehicles I wont worry about a computer upgrade or chip unless I become concerned about power.

That said the 3.0L engine has more than enough grunt!:cool:

[SBD4]

I've just come across to Sydney from Adelaide while towing a 2 horse angle load and loaded to the hilt with stuff for the Sydney Royal. Coming across the Hay plains I ended up having the dash tell me that I was getting 18lt. So here are my two questions. Is this what some people with big vans and other large floats are getting or are they getting better? and secondly, is there someone in Sydney near Blacktown that I can have my ecu hooked up to run a quick check before i head back across the plains? Cheers in advance.

Ian, you could try Davis Performance Landies at Annangrove - about 20 mins form Blacktown:

Land Rover, Range Rover, Discovery + all vehicle make and models service and repairs (http://www.davisperformance.com/)

Or Trivett at Parramatta:

Trivett - Authorised Servicing & Repair Centres (http://www.trivett.com.au/Service-Booking.aspx?Dealership=Trivett-Land-Rover-Parramatta&Id=11)

[ozscott]

Graeme.

Ha I hate this sort of thing....it would be so much easier to explain verbally with many hand gestures.:)

Perhaps it was the bad spelling, but in my example the speedo does read faster,

"That is when you spoeedo says 100kmh you are doing 95"

Oh yes and pardon my ignorance but whats a CCF and a CC (cruise control?)


TerryO

No what I meant was....in standard form with standard tyres in my D4 when travelling for an hour at an indicated 100kmh.

The speedometer will be reading low and I will actually be travelling at a speed closer to 95kmh but the odometer will be correct and I will have covered 100km.

In the A.C.T. they have odometer marker posts on the side of the highway for 5km, when I drive past and set the tip to zero at the zero mark, by the time I get to the 5km mark my trip meter is out by less than 20m. So 20m out of 5000m is 0.4%, much more accurate than the speedometer which says 100kmh when my GPS says 95kmh.

So if I were to change to larger tyres the speedo would become more accurate but in turn the odo would read less, as I don't know that it can auto correct for that sort of thing. What I mean is just an intentional offset between the odo and speedo from the factory. Clear as mud eh...:(

Redback

"Our 2.7l D4 won't do anything under 1600rpm in 4th, 5th or 6th."

You're a little harsh on the old D4. Now having started my driving career in V8's im used to plenty of grunt from 1000rpm, I will admit that even for a diesel the 2.7 does not have much 'grunt' bellow 1600rpm. However whilst no rocket ship my D4 seems happy enough to motor along most arterial roads at 80kmh at 1350rpm without labouring.

But yes much below that it "won't do anything.":angel:


I dont understand this. The odometer is based on tyre rotations - it is calibrated at the factor for x inch tyre wheel combination on that vehicle. The computer knows if a 30 inch say (whatever stock is) rotates once that is 1.1 metres or whatever and it works out distance from that - simple. If a larger tyre is added later to the same rim the computer doesnt know that...so the speedo will be underreading and so will the odometer. If the tyre has a 10% greater rolling distance for one revolution than stock then the odometer will be showing 10% less k's travelled than were actually travelled and will show 90kph when the vehicle is actually travelling at 100kph.

Good fuel figures in this thread.

Cheers

[gghaggis]

I dont understand this. The odometer is based on tyre rotations - it is calibrated at the factor for x inch tyre wheel combination on that vehicle. The computer knows if a 30 inch say (whatever stock is) rotates once that is 1.1 metres or whatever and it works out distance from that - simple. If a larger tyre is added later to the same rim the computer doesnt know that...so the speedo will be underreading and so will the odometer. If the tyre has a 10% greater rolling distance for one revolution than stock then the odometer will be showing 10% less k's travelled than were actually travelled and will show 90kph when the vehicle is actually travelling at 100kph.

Good fuel figures in this thread.

Cheers

In these cars there are two different algorithms; the speedometer reading and odometer readings are calculated differently, from different reference figures. This is so the car can be programmed for various markets where there might be a legislative requirement for the speedo to be optimistic by different % figures, but the odometer still needs to be accurate.

Certain diagnostic tools can alter the inputs to the two algorithms, thereby accounting for different tyre sizes.

Cheers,

Gordon

[ozscott]

Thanks Gordon - I suppose the point I was making is that it cannot auto correct but rather needs calibration by a human with a computer. Any change in tyre size must affect speed and distance readings and display and therefore if changing tyres and wanting accuracy some computer programming is required. Nice feature to have available though.

Cheers

[BobD]

The worst I have seen in my 2010 3l D4 was on a trip we did From Perth to Ceduna and back over the Australia Day weekend.

We averaged 16.5 l/100km (688 l for 4165 km) and the worst section was 18.2 l/100km from Perth to Norseman via the Hyden to Norseman gravel track. On this section all that we had causing extra drag was a Kimberley Mycube roof top tent but we had a head wind and were cruising at about 125 on the GPS with the cruise control on.

On the return trip we were towing a 1300 kg Adventure Camper Trailer (picked it up in Ceduna), still with the roof top tent as well, but travelling at around 107 on the GPS with the cruise control on and we were getting around 17 l/100km all the way from Ceduna to Perth.

Obviously speed makes a big difference to the D4 fuel consumption, especially with the increased drag of a roof rack or roof top tent. I don't usually get as bad as 18 l/100km, even towing our 1800 kg caravan, which we usually tow at just over 100 kph actual speed.

Re speedo accuracy, my odo is spot on and the speedo reads 5kph over at any speed. Hence, I assume it is set for 0% and plus 5kph by Landrover.


Bob

[discotwinturbo]

Thanks for that Brett, the weird thing was I seemed to get better economy in the Hills along the Hume. I recon I was fitting a side wind at the time as well which doesn't help. You wouldn't kow what a 200 would get with the same weight??

Ian

I do know about the 200 fuel economy. There a number of them at events with floats, but not quite has heavy as our trailer. When I last spoke to an owner I was using the Touareg to tow, and this for the same trip in the Touareg was 16.5 lp100....Better then the Disco. This cruiser owner was blown away....he was doing over 20 lp100 and he had the same amount of highway cruising. Neighbour has a 200 and towing their 2.8 tonne float sits just over 21 lp100. So I gather at 3.5 tonne it would be a little more?

Brett....

[Graeme]

Re speedo accuracy, my odo is spot on and the speedo reads 5kph over at any speed. Hence, I assume it is set for 0% and plus 5kph by Landrover.The original CCF setting is 3.5% + 2 kph. The other option is 2% + 0 kph.

[phl]

Is there any way to set things up to get an accurate fuel consumption? Surely the engine management system knows exactly how much fuel it's spraying into the cylinders, so should be able to give a very accurate consumption based on that and the accurate odometer reading.

[ozscott]

Thats the way all injected vehicles do it Phil ...my understanding is that it is fuel injected or used from the rails if not returned and then tbe straight calculation based on the odometer so as long as the odometer is accurate then so should economy reading. If you hook up a diagnostic tool it should also show liters per 100k on that too and that can be user calibrated for bigger tyres.

Cheers

[Graeme]

The CCF contains a fuel economy calculation adjustment factor which was factory set at +7% in my D4. Now set at -5% the display is mostly very accurate but can be slightly optimistic or pessimistic depending on driving conditions. It might be less accurate for a vastly different driving style though.

[Plane Fixer]

I have had my D4 just over 12 months and I have had a variety of trips with it and I have kept a spreadsheet on it since new. At 38000k I have an average of 11.16L/100Km and I am very happy with that.
By comparison with the 3L Patrol I got an average of 12.8L/100Km which has a lot less power and torque and the new Hilux I drive at work is even worse than that.

[phl]

The CCF contains a fuel economy calculation adjustment factor which was factory set at +7% in my D4. Now set at -5% the display is mostly very accurate but can be slightly optimistic or pessimistic depending on driving conditions. It might be less accurate for a vastly different driving style though.

Is there much difference in accuracy between different cars? I wonder if tyre circumference differences is affecting the one way or the other.

Is it difficult to find the setting to change the CCF?