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View Full Version : Thomas PTO position on back of LT95



rar110
21st January 2012, 08:35 PM
I've got a new gearbox with a Thomas PTO for a winch. It's mounted on the back of the box almost dead straight (say about 80 degrees). Has it been bolted on correctly? To me it looks like it needs to rotate clockwise so the output is closer to the chassis rail and sits at about 45 degrees. At this angle the housing is a bit higher, it will clear TC oil fill plug, the speedo cable will fit under it better and the PTO shafts will travel in a straighter line to the winch.

Advice from anyone who has one of these would be appreciated.

Bearman
22nd January 2012, 06:24 AM
No reason why you can't rotate it to the position you want as long as the bolt holes line up. From memory there is nothing in the internals to stop you doing it.

weeds
22nd January 2012, 06:29 AM
Mines it's near vertical, I fitted it the same way it come of the donor vehicle. It might have something to do with the

. If this is going in your perentie than I'm guessing you don't have an exhaust system in the way.

disco2hse
22nd January 2012, 06:39 AM
I assume you are referring to the chain driven forward facing unit?

I have one on a Stage 1 V8. It sits slightly below horizontal.

Remember there are two main types produced, one for the RRC and one for the series. Don't know about fitting one to a 110, but you can redrill holes as required.

rar110
22nd January 2012, 07:21 AM
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm inclined to leave it be if that's the norm. Which way does the speedo cable go, ie under, over or around the back of the PTO?

disco2hse
22nd January 2012, 07:23 AM
Mine follows the easiest route, round the back from memory.

rar110
22nd January 2012, 08:05 AM
Mine follows the easiest route, round the back from memory.

I just re-read your post. Horizontal is interesting. Being leaf sprung are the chassis rails spaced further apart allowing more room on the inside?

rar110
22nd January 2012, 08:19 AM
No reason why you can't rotate it to the position you want as long as the bolt holes line up. From memory there is nothing in the internals to stop you doing it.

The vernier's indicate the bolts are evenly spaced so it looks like it could be rotated. However rotating would mean mucking around with the locking tab. Anytime I change something the job turns into something bigger than Ben Herr.

Bearman
22nd January 2012, 08:24 AM
The vernier's indicate the bolts are evenly spaced so it looks like it could be rotated. However rotating would mean mucking around with the locking tab. Anytime I change something the job turns into something bigger than Ben Herr.

Where is the locking tab?

rar110
22nd January 2012, 08:32 AM
On the bolt head for TRB shaft I think. You know my postage stamp understanding of gearboxes.

Bearman
22nd January 2012, 08:52 AM
On the bolt head for TRB shaft I think. You know my postage stamp understanding of gearboxes.

Relocate it to the speedo housing if you can't get it to fit on the pto housing.

disco2hse
22nd January 2012, 01:57 PM
I just re-read your post. Horizontal is interesting. Being leaf sprung are the chassis rails spaced further apart allowing more room on the inside?

Well, it is more kind of slightly below horizontal. From memory the chassis on the series is narrower than the 110, certainly the wheel track is. The issue was more to with fitting it past the exhaust. As it is, there is not a lot of room between the chassis and the PTO.

inside
22nd January 2012, 06:03 PM
Make sure you check if you have a 110 or RR one, the 110 one should be longer. The drop part is about 330mm or about 215mm from gear centre to PTO drive line centre.

Here's a pic of how the drive line runs on the Perentie. The parts scale while showing the parts that make up this it is hard to see how it runs from PTO to winch.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/1619/winchservice.jpg

DeeJay
22nd January 2012, 10:31 PM
There have been similar threads on this, took some finding though !!

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/77198-modifying-transfer-pto-winch-drive.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/27070-series-3-stage-1-thomas-winch.html

Unfortunately some of the pics have disappeared.

rar110
22nd January 2012, 11:27 PM
thanks for the replies everyone. Andrew your diagram was very helpful. It showed the previous owner had the shafts fitted the wrong way round with the short section of shaft near the PTO instead of near the winch. It was fitted by a dealer up north so you would expect better. It worked ok which is the main thing I suppose.

Can anyone tell me where the front bracket mounts to, I have a photo which is a little unclear but it looks like it mounts on to the chassis at the engine mount. Brian I remember taking some photos of your set up but cant find them of course.

Bearman
23rd January 2012, 07:00 AM
thanks for the replies everyone. Andrew your diagram was very helpful. It showed the previous owner had the shafts fitted the wrong way round with the short section of shaft near the PTO instead of near the winch. It was fitted by a dealer up north so you would expect better. It worked ok which is the main thing I suppose.

Can anyone tell me where the front bracket mounts to, I have a photo which is a little unclear but it looks like it mounts on to the chassis at the engine mount. Brian I remember taking some photos of your set up but cant find them of course.

I will take a photo this morning and put it up later.

Bearman
23rd January 2012, 09:49 AM
Spot on Pete. It bolts to the bottom of the engine mount.

rar110
23rd January 2012, 02:30 PM
Thanks Brian. I priced that bracket to see if it was worth making. It came in at $1395. So I'll be digging out a piece of angle and making one.

The more I look at my winch and compare with diagrams & photos the more I see it wasn't set up properly.

The middle shaft is supposed run on two bearings each held in a bracket that attaches to the chassis. On my setup one of those bearing/bracket's has been fitted to the short shaft that attaches to the winch. So the next question is how do I remove it from one shaft and fit it to the other? I am thinking that I press it off with a piece of pipe and a jack.

DeeJay
23rd January 2012, 02:50 PM
[. So the next question is how do I remove it from one shaft and fit it to the other? I am thinking that I press it off with a piece of pipe and a jack.[/QUOTE]

The collar on the bearing will have a small grub screw, so loosen that, perhaps some small amount of heat & it should tap off. I think I put mine vertically in a vice- not nipped up on the shaft- & used a mallet & wooden block as a drift & hammered it downwards.