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View Full Version : Engine and/or gearbox changes in IIa (etc)



Slunnie
23rd January 2012, 01:40 PM
Hi all, sorry if this has done the rounds.... many times, though I couldn't see it (perhaps I should see an optomitrist... ironically).

Engine and gearbox changes to a series - I've always done these with the body off. A new challenge for me may shortly be to do one with the body on!

I have a IIa 6cyl ute. Gearbox is dead. Engine might also need replacing.

Can I just confirm the following:

Engine change only - Just split the gearbox and pull the engine?

Engine and gearbox - Will the gearbox slip out from under the firewall with the motor or does this need to be split off the motor and dropped through the chassis, or pulled up through the cabin - an if so does the seat box need to come out?

Gearbox only - Likewise, will this drop through the chassis, or will does it need to go through the cabin - and if so does the seat box need to come out.

Thanks for this.


Edit: This is the ol' girl!


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/471.jpg

isuzurover
23rd January 2012, 02:01 PM
Bearing in mind I have only done this on a 4cyl...

Engine removal: split engine after removing rad and bonnet, engine can be lifted out fairly easily.

Gearbox: Up through floor after removing floor/tunnel/seat box. That was until I fabricated a removeable gearbox crossmember.

Slunnie
23rd January 2012, 02:09 PM
Thanks for this!

Do you know if the motor and gearbox both come out (looking like it will happen this way) if the gearbox will come out through the engine bay also?

Ahhhhh, actually thinking back to when we pulled the spare engine/gearbox, we had to lift the firewall...... hmmmm. Thanks for this.

JDNSW
23rd January 2012, 05:53 PM
As an addendum, remember that it is possible to disconnect the transfer case from the gearbox in the vehicle - I suspect with it disconnected, you can remove the engine plus gearbox, although I have never done it, and it is then probably possible to remove the transfer case without removing the seat box, but again, I have never done it!

John

Blknight.aus
23rd January 2012, 06:04 PM
if you drop the Tcase off and the shifter then yes you can pull the gearbox out with it still on the back of the engine, if the radiator bulkhead is removed it actually balances pretty nicely with the COG about inline with the last bolt in the rocker cover.

Johnno1969
23rd January 2012, 06:09 PM
If you don't want to remove the seat box, it's possible to separate the gearbox and transfer case and then drop each out below the vehicle. It's a wrestle to get the gearbox out, but possible.

isuzurover
23rd January 2012, 06:11 PM
Do you know if the motor and gearbox both come out (looking like it will happen this way) if the gearbox will come out through the engine bay also?

Ahhhhh, actually thinking back to when we pulled the spare engine/gearbox, we had to lift the firewall...... hmmmm. Thanks for this.

I have never done it in one piece. However you would need to remove the t-case and rad support as mentioned. You would also need access under the middle seat to help unbolt everything before splitting t-case.

Slunnie
23rd January 2012, 07:24 PM
Jeez there are some brilliant minds on here!

Thank you all very much for this, it sounds like splitting the transfer off and then sliding the lot out will be a lot easier for the full R&R than the other options. The seatbox is a pain to do and I'd probably almost be better just lifting the entire cab for the ute.

Hopefully I'll come back grinning rather than recovering from a dose of tourettes. :D

Blknight.aus
23rd January 2012, 07:42 PM
I have seatbox removal and Tcase removal (once the shafts are off) down to about 20 minutes each..

Johnno1969
23rd January 2012, 09:29 PM
If you don't want to remove the seat box, it's possible to separate the gearbox and transfer case and then drop each out below the vehicle. It's a wrestle to get the gearbox out, but possible.


Er, I mean that I dropped the transfer case out and then....maybe I somehow upended the gearbox and lifted it up and out, forward of the seat box. Or maybe I didn't. Can't remember. Either way it came out, I definitely did it.....

I guess if you tried it, the Landy would show you how it wanted it done.

Slunnie
23rd January 2012, 09:37 PM
Just looking through the workshop manual. Looks like you have to start pulling the internals out of the transfer case to get to the bolts that hold it to the gearbox??? and a special puller is needed for the intermediate shaft. Is this no biggie?

chazza
23rd January 2012, 09:50 PM
Just looking through the workshop manual. Looks like you have to start pulling the internals out of the transfer case to get to the bolts that hold it to the gearbox??? and a special puller is needed for the intermediate shaft. Is this no biggie?

Yes; some of the fasteners that hold the transfer box on are inside the casing.

I put a nut behind the intermediate shaft and used a lever on it to push the shaft out in increments but that was on the workshop floor where it was easy to work on.

Removing the seatbox isn't that difficult and two blokes with a pole and straps can get both boxes out easily enough,

Cheers Charlie

isuzurover
23rd January 2012, 10:13 PM
Just looking through the workshop manual. Looks like you have to start pulling the internals out of the transfer case to get to the bolts that hold it to the gearbox??? and a special puller is needed for the intermediate shaft. Is this no biggie?

You just need to drain the oil, drop the pan, unbolt the handbrake, then unbolt the lock tab which holds the intermediate shaft in place, then use a crowbar or tyre lever to remove the intermediate shaft and gear.

Slunnie
23rd January 2012, 10:28 PM
ok sounds a bit more straight forward. Thanks Charlie and Ben!

Blknight.aus
23rd January 2012, 10:29 PM
to get it out without pulling the engine the tetris is as follows

unbolt Tcase
remove Tcase
support gearbox on cross member
remove lower bell housing bolts
support engine/bell housing on cross member
remove all the bits from the bell housing and the shifter
unbolt bell housing from engine
pull backwards and down
pull back further lift up and slide forwards rotating as you go
lift gearbox and bell housing out through cab OR lower to ground and slide out from under vehicle.

IF your going to goto that much effort it is easier to pull the engine and Tcase ASSY out as a single unit by removing the seatbox. then reach in with the engine crane and pull the trans out through the door. If you dont have an engine crane or some really strong friends then split the Tcase off.

redgoon6
24th January 2012, 04:41 PM
You will NOT get the 6cyl. engine out with the gearbox on.After reamoving manafolds altanator oil fillter dissy dipstick tube and anything else you can possably reamove, start removing body pannels.Yes it is that tight a fit!As for the gearbox it all depends how strong you and your back are,I always use an engine hoist through the inside with the seat box removed.Eric

wagoo
25th January 2012, 08:31 AM
As an addendum, remember that it is possible to disconnect the transfer case from the gearbox in the vehicle - I suspect with it disconnected, you can remove the engine plus gearbox, although I have never done it, and it is then probably possible to remove the transfer case without removing the seat box, but again, I have never done it!

John

I haven't removed the seat box in a LandRover for over 15 years, and have removed gearbox and transfercase as separate entitities in both 4 and 6 cyl vehicle dozens of times. If the gearbox is going to be overhauled, the transfercase need to come of anyway. The only differences, aside from the couple of hours saved from not removing and refitting the seat box, is that you'll be lying on your back while removing the transfer, and you'll be handling 2 relatively lightweight components instead of one heavy awkwardly unbalanced assembly.From memory 4cyl boxes came out from above, whilst 6cyl boxes came out from the bottom after rolling the box on its left side and removing the low range lever pivot bracket from the bell housing. This is for vehicles with non removable t/case crossmembers of course.
Bill.

geodon
5th February 2012, 07:17 AM
I am emotionally scarred after mating up my Holden to the LR GB (on the floor!!!) and am convinced it's next to impossible in-situ. I'm reluctant to proceed further with the resto till I sort this out to my satisfaction.

The 3rd crossmember holds the GB mounts & appears to be fairly minor in the scheme of things.

If it wasn't there, engine & GB should come out together easily: lift, push car back (my crane won't roll loaded due to a poor concrete floor), a bit of a tilt to clear the 2nd crossmember & "Robert's your father's brother!"

Can it be cut off, have brackets/cleats welded on and then bolted back in place? Has anyone done it??


43215

43216

Blknight.aus
5th February 2012, 07:47 AM
what you want is a nice chunk of 8-12mm plywood and a sheet of metal or checker plate to put down.

My crane rolls fine on it and Im often using it on sand, grass and even mud.

chazza
5th February 2012, 08:12 AM
The 3rd crossmember holds the GB mounts & appears to be fairly minor in the scheme of things.

If it wasn't there, engine & GB should come out together easily: lift, push car back (my crane won't roll loaded due to a poor concrete floor), a bit of a tilt to clear the 2nd crossmember & "Robert's your father's brother!"

Can it be cut off, have brackets/cleats welded on and then bolted back in place? Has anyone done it??


43215

43216

Yes it can be modified; lots of people have done it before,

Cheers Charlie

geodon
5th February 2012, 09:38 AM
BlKn- many thanks!!