1955 S1 86" addition to the stable

[JayBoRover]

When I saw this reasonably nice looking S1 on eBay and realised it was in my neighbouring suburb I just had to go and have a look. I saw enough of it to realise it was a worthy car of looking after and it would be a shame to see it pulverised or abused so I figured the maximum I would pay and put in a bid or two. I won it with $4 to spare:cool:

So I'll pick it up this weekend and provide a decent description with additional photo's showing some of the salient points. In the mean time, here are a few of the photo's from the eBay advertisement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1251.jpg
Hiding under the rusted sheet-steel "canopy" are the original "loops" for the canvas canopy. The sheet steel is riveted to the tub and the top of the windscreen. One of my first jobs will be to drill the rivets out and remove the steel sheet and check the condition of the loops - they looked good from what was visible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/435.jpg
There was no rust in the front of the dumb-irons or the rear cross member, where I have normally found severe rust in old Landies I've looked at. The gearbox cross member was severely dented, but not rusted. I think it's beyond repair so might require a replacement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/436.jpg
The engine bay appeared complete with the exception of the battery. The owner did not know why the engine is "non runner", so that'll be an early thing to look at. It'll be a great buy if the engine is okay, but still an okay buy if not as everything else is so good.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/437.jpg
Behind the seat backs there was still the original crank handle and several other original tools and stuff. The actual seat padding and upholstery was shot, but all the frames and hinges were still there and correct. There was no rust visible in the bulkhead, the steering wheel was pretty good, the doors opened and closed okay, the windows slid freely, the left hand instrument glass is broken. The tub interior was very, very good.

Not exactly what I intended to do as my next Landy project, but it'll fit in well with the 80" in the shed already and the donor S2a outside and the "temporarily broken" S2a DeeDee in the carport. All I have to figure out is what to throw out of the garages to make room for this one. It's been stored in a shed for the last 20 years (did I say it's a two owner car?) so deserves a garage to park in.

More this weekend.
Ciao
John B

[digger]

so which weights are correct? :)

looked at that thought looked good but the "unknown engine fault" and those massive blinkers had me turned off!! :)

cheers!

(I have a spare one of those guages if you need it)

[JayBoRover]

so which weights are correct? :)

looked at that thought looked good but the "unknown engine fault" and those massive blinkers had me turned off!! :)

cheers!

(I have a spare one of those guages if you need it)
Yep:D Both the contradictory weights and the indicators kind of scream at me too! The indicators will not last long on there, that I promise you - even if it means removing something of it's history. There are limits!:eek:

I have a few bits and pieces of a 1955 engine here already, so maybe whatever is wrong can be remedied with what I have. When I asked the guy if he knew why it wouldn't run he just shrugged his shoulders and said "not a clue, never tried". It was basically a deceased estate sale and he said the family considered getting a mechanic to have a look to see if it could be made to run, but they decided it could be throwing money away that might not be recovered. I won't get a mechanic to look by doing it myself, so not as much money to throw away. Besides, throwing money at an old S1 isn't a waste in my book - certainly not an "investment" in the financial sense but an "investment" in history.

Hopefully I can remedy the issue, sort out a few other things I noticed and then see if I want to keep it or move it on as a running car. At this stage I can see it becoming a useful car on my block and allow me to sell my Nissan Patrol ute without losing the ability to manage the property.

Thanks for the offer on the gauge. I'll see how it looks inside when I have it in my hands. It looked like just the glass was broken by a light impact dead centre, so maybe I can source a suitable glass only for it. If the gauges are damaged I'll get in touch.;)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/431.jpg

Cheers
John B

[123rover50]

Watching that one but too far away. Good buy.
Fancy chrome wheel trims, wonder what they are from. Might be a Royal:)

[ellard]

Hi there John

What a nice find and in reasonable condition. I have a soft spot of the 86 and looking forwards to the rebuild saga.

Ps -if your after another guage I may have one in the shed (pm me)

All the best

[chazza]

Nice find John!

The indicators are off a Bedford truck, J series by the look of them. I have the same ones on my J3.

Getting a new glass cut shouldn't be any problem,

Cheers Charlie

[Avion8]

Congratulations John, a nice find & only 4888kms on the clock. I had to attend a Chinese New Year dinner on Sunday night & hence missed the email from eBay announcing that I had been outbid. I even had a slot in the shed cleaned out for him, thanks to last weeks thunderstorm & approx 60mm's of rain in half an hour. You could always name him "Flash" for his indicators & at least where they are located there is no risk of leaving them on, which of course I never do with Lionel.

Cheers Nigel

[JayBoRover]

Congratulations John, a nice find & only 4888kms on the clock. I had to attend a Chinese New Year dinner on Sunday night & hence missed the email from eBay announcing that I had been outbid. I even had a slot in the shed cleaned out for him, thanks to last weeks thunderstorm & approx 60mm's of rain in half an hour. You could always name him "Flash" for his indicators & at least where they are located there is no risk of leaving them on, which of course I never do with Lionel.

Cheers Nigel
Hey there Nigel. Sorry to beat you in your absence. Doesn't seem fair. I hope you had a nice Chinese New Year dinner then. There were a couple of other bidders. The seller said one was from Melbourne and had rung about the car before bidding.
I have a real mission on my hands to make space in a garage for the addition this weekend. Then I hope the engine doesn't have to come out as the engine stand is full with the '49 engine from my 80". I'll have to pull my finger out and do something instead of just buying old Land Rover bits but preparing for the Dakar is the big goal for the year so the S1's have to take a back seat.
"Flash" might be okay for now but might be hard to explain when I remove the indicators, an early job for sure!
Had you been to have a look at the car? I'd be interested to hear what you thought and what you noticed that maybe I missed. The owner did say that someone had come to have a look on Sunday - I looked on Saturday late afternoon.
Maybe when I've got it home we should meet. I like the look of your one and would be keen to see that and discuss them.
Cheers
John B

[Avion8]

Hi John,

A fair win, & yes the Chinese New Year dinner was great, nice company, fantastic food & of course lots of good red wine.
I did view the vehicle before Christmas when it was a set price sale, but what with Christmas, SWMBO & then New Year it just didn't happen. But when I saw it back on eBay the good wife said go for it, most unusual as she hates riding in the 80" as does the dog. They don't mind a crappy old 20 year Ford Courier, or the Citroen!

Good luck with the garage space, our shed is 20X11 mtrs & is still full of junk. If I had purchased I would have pulled the engine out & down to inspect bottom end & probably replace exhaust valves, as I suspect they are the originals. I had quite a long list of items that needed replacement on "Flash", the wiring harness, tyres, exhaust, seats need a total rebuild, looked like the mice had eaten them. Then a tilt needs installing & I agree the sticks look OK, instrument glass, probably brakes & clutch, & if Lionel is anything to go by anything with a diaphragm in it needs a new one, carby, auto advance (just changed mine on Lionel with a Distributor Doctor unit and seems to go a little better up hills), fuel pump. Then it needs new indicators, Pork Pie rear lights, & I think outher than chassis crossmember he should be all set. I would have left the body pretty much as is for time being, just scrub off the TARE lettering/numbering.

I would like to see your '49 80" & Flash again when you get him home. Don't know if I can get Lionel as far as Perth yet, he is getting more reliable by the week, but definitely needs new tyres before a 70km trip to Perth, I think I'm going to go back to as close as standard 6.00X16 as I can get, the 7.00x16's make him just a tad too high geared for the Great Eastern Highway - I hadn't even noticed the hills on it before? - and it is no joke going up them in second gear. Good luck with your Dakar preparations - now there's a thought a Series 1 Dakar entrant!
Cheers
Nigel

[JayBoRover]

Thanks for the great response Nigel. Your list of items requiring attention is almost identical to mine. I hadn't looked at the wiring loom in much detail so missed any potential issues there, but everything else I had noted. I also figured that most rubber and diaphragm bits would need work/replacement and that "moving parts" like the clutch and brakes would need work.
I'll PM you my contact details and maybe we can catch up for a chat sometime soon.
Cheers
John B

[JayBoRover]

So a very hot day of muscling "Flash" onto and off a hired car trailer and then into the garage, but only after a couple of hours of emptying the stuff previously stored there.
Flash in his new home:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/832.jpg

I'll be keen to hear any history anyone knows. The relevant numbers are:
Chassis # 57160713
Engine # 57104853
I do know the previous owner was named Chris Hardie and he passed away on or around Australia Day last year. The sale was a deceased estate. Apparently Chris's Mum was a bit taken aback by the co-incidence of my changing my arrangements at the last minute to collect Flash today instead of Saturday as planned. The sale was managed by a cousin I believe. Some of the WA AULROians will know of Chris. I remember the funeral notice being announced on here. The cousin mentioned that Chris's Mum would like to get some photo's of the car as it gets restored, which of course I'm very happy to do.

I took the opportunity to have a good look around Flash. I emptied out the tub and swept it out. Didn't seem to bad under the thick layer of dust and dirt.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/286.jpg

The stuff in the tub included a couple of Range Rover wheels, a genuine spare for Flash, date stamped 11/54, and a good condition radiator and four headlamp units.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/287.jpg

Despite the tatty appearance of the "farmer built" steel body over the tub, the rear door hinges freely and the latch aligns with it's striker and all works well. That doesn't stop me being determined to remove it all though.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/288.jpg

Behind the seat backs, clipped to the front of the tub, were the long tools and the jack and wheel brace were in the passenger seat locker. I used the engine manual crank to turn the engine over. It rotated nicely with no horrible sounds but also didn't seem to have much in the way of compression or resistance.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/773.jpg

The jack seems to work well:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/774.jpg

This is the damage to the gearbox cross-member I referred to in a previous post. It's had a very good whack!:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/289.jpg

The cross-member behind that one is also dented, but not seriously:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/290.jpg

To keep Flash company, I relocated my 1950 80" into the same garage. It had been in the other double garage, but it seems "nice" to put them together.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/291.jpg

I think they'll get along just fine!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/292.jpg

More in time.
Cheers
John B

[Avion8]

Hi John,

They look great together in the garage. Really look forward to seeing the restorations. Flash is quite unique in having all his original tools & even the jack still there. My under passenger seat box just had a redback in it!

Cheers Nigel

[JayBoRover]

Redbacks in the seat box! Classic Nigel.:D

So I took some detailed photo's of the "Pork Pie" tail light today. Both of my S1's seem to suffer from "one tail light-itus". The 80" has one beaten up "Dee light" and the 86" has one beaten up "Pork Pie" light.

It seems it might be a tough job to renovate, but what are opinions out there? The lens looks like it might be okay and the surround ring might tidy up okay.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/219.jpg

A bit worse for wear although it seems to be generally all there - albeit "modified" into a new and exciting shape;) (I must have been reading the article about the new, 2015, Defender) ... and a bit rusty:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/220.jpg

The base rubber is obviously fairly perished and I'm not sure how I'll go getting the corroded bolts and nuts undone. The wiring seems okay though:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/221.jpg

The other side only has the base:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/222.jpg

Cheers
John B

[Radical]

Isn't it amazing!! You are well and truly becoming a "Rivet Counter" John,This is a SERIES DISEASE!! No known Cure! But only kept stable by buying another and another!!!
Now I am thinking well I haven't got a Series 1 I better start looking!!
Good to see someone else who understands!!!:wasntme:
Cheers Konrad

[klonk]

Hi John

Just read this after sending you the PM and i see your 80.

Flash looks a good thing, I think the most enjoyable part of getting a new toy is hunting through it to see what treasures you can find.
I found an 80'' trafficator switch amoungst the junk in klonks tool box, in good order too, I think that is my most prized posession for klonk.

Cheers Steve

[JayBoRover]

Hi John

Just read this after sending you the PM and i see your 80.

Flash looks a good thing, I think the most enjoyable part of getting a new toy is hunting through it to see what treasures you can find.
I found an 80'' trafficator switch amoungst the junk in klonks tool box, in good order too, I think that is my most prized posession for klonk.

Cheers Steve
I haven't received a PM from you Steve??
I've been watching your Klonk thread though (as well as your new "Frog's house" one). It is fun seeing what you get. Reminds me of Forest Gump's comment about life being a box of chocolates, except in this case it's a Series Land Rover you have to "unwrap" to find what's hiding in there. I think the jack and crank handle were my special finds.
Cheers
John B

[k1000o]

(...) throwing money at an old S1 isn't a waste in my book - certainly not an "investment" in the financial sense but an "investment" in history. (...)
You're an authentic Land Rover nutter -indeed- like many of us.
What a find!

Cam
:)

[digger]

Nice
I can see a proper SWB centre 'hoop' there too at least! <<<EDIT:_ (just re read original post...ignore this bit!)>>>

keep us up to date ( a bloke in SA makes reproduction D ligts in chrome or black... if nothing else go with tem until you can source/repair, eg/borrow / steal some pork pies!

[newhue]

On ebay, there is a pork pie clear lens for the under side of the light. There is also a good set of D lights from a different seller if porkies are too hard.

Let the bank doors open and the CC start getting hot. The down side to your new addiction.

[B.S.F.]

Pork-pies and D-lights are not interchangeable.Different mounting holes.You'd have to butcher your tub.

[Mustlust]

:o I have an orange lenses on my light..... can anybody shead light (sic) on why the lens is a different colour to JayBoRover's red lens???

[chazza]

:o I have an orange lenses on my light..... can anybody shead light (sic) on why the lens is a different colour to JayBoRover's red lens???

Fading I suspect.

New porkies and probably lenses, are available from the S1 Club UK I think,

Cheers Charlie

[dennisS1]

Why there are orange pork pie lights? I don’t know either but they exist maybe not LR. I converted 2 brand new orange lenses to red by spraying them with lens spray it was far more successful then I expected you can’t pick the difference.
As far as I know the base kits are available from S1 club but not the rest.
Dennis

[JayBoRover]

There is also a good set of D lights from a different seller if porkies are too hard.

Let the bank doors open and the CC start getting hot. The down side to your new addiction.
I saw those D lights and thought I might have a nibble at them for the 80". Then I saw the seller stated "no postage - pickup only" in two places on the listing but also said "post anywhere" in his text description. I got nervous that things would get messy, being on the other side of this giant island and all:(. Turns out I maybe would have won them with what I'd have bid to.

My CC is fairly locked up this year ... you have any idea what it costs to enter the Dakar Rally?:eek:

[Avion8]

My CC is fairly locked up this year ... you have any idea what it costs to enter the Dakar Rally?:eek:[/QUOTE]

Probably a lot more than an 80" Series 1. Looks like fun in the mud though for the bikes:cool:. Next year the Range-Rover Evoque's are taking part, be exciting to see them up against the Mini's:D. Wish you the best of luck with it all & hope you get some good sponsorship.

Cheers Nigel

[JayBoRover]

Yep - I'm looking forward to seeing the Dakar Evoques. I got to see the Mini's at the Desert Challenge in Abu Dhabi last year. Not much "Mini" about them - in more ways than one. Definitely bigger than my S2a!:cool:
... and yep, some serious sponsorship would certainly help! Looking down the barrel of around $100k - and that's after I've already spent just over $50k on my Dakar bike! All that would certainly buy a few tidy S1's huh!:D

[JayBoRover]

Since Defender Mike has stirred things up in his search for a Series 1, I have felt a little more motivated to have a look at "Flash", the '55 I accidentally won on eBay a while ago. So this weekend I towed Flash out of the garage for a little look-see.
So I started with removing the doors, bonnet, seats, tools and the stuff in the rear. A blank canvas:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1297.jpg

So my game plan was to remove the badly rusting steel hardtop skin that a previous owner had fitted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1298.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1299.jpg

So out with the electric drill and drilled out several million rivets (I never, ever, ever exaggerate:p). The odd belt with a chisel and hammer and it started to come away.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1300.jpg

Took a bit of work to get the majority of the panelling off:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1301.jpg

The "ribs" are welded to the hoops. I have actually finished cutting them off but I hacksawed them each side of the hoops so I can more easily attack the joints with the grinder without impacting on the original hoops too much. So the tidying it up will be a job for another day. The rear sections of panelling are welded to the hoops both vertically and along the tops and to the tub capping along the bottoms! Grrrr! That'll be a big job for another day!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1302.jpg

So with the hardtop basically removed the other part of the game plan was to see what might be required to get the old thing running. So I removed the spark plugs and cleaned them up, turned the engine over for a few rev's with the hand crank and poured some water in the radiator. The radiator fairly quickly emptied itself through a hole somewhere around the water pump and also from a split in the bottom radiator hose. I then hooked up the battery from DeeDee (my S2a) with some jumper leads to Flash and found the headlights came on:). Surprise:eek:! Turned them off with the dash switch and they turned off. Brilliant! (Pardon the pun;)).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1303.jpg

I took the filler and neck out of the fuel tank to find the tank in beautiful condition internally with no gunk, rust or fuel. Not confident that the fuel pump would work so figured if I got that far I would be doing well so planned on gravity feeding a bit of fuel directly to the carb. First wanted to see some spark to verify the coil, ignition and distributor.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1304.jpg

Couldn't find any spark. I removed the coil and cleaned all the contact and checked the coil continuity. It was fine so put it all back together. The actual plug leads are't looking very happy so I think I might have to spring for some new ones of those. The plug caps just fell apart in my hands so I wasn't confident that even if I got power that far that it would actually get to the spark plug anyway! Still no spark so thought it might be time to check the ignition switch itself, as it didn't give me any "solid" feeling in it's key turn. opened up the dash panel and found this!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1305.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1306.jpg

More than a fair share of the wires are eaten through and broken. Busy mice!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1307.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1308.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/07/1309.jpg

So I have some work in front of me to sort the wiring out. In the mean time I'll try to figure out what I need to do to bypass the ignition and power only to where it's needed for a test start. Jeez I was lucky to not have a fire in the dash with all that dry straw, seat cushion material and broken wiring with insulation eaten away:eek:!

I was pretty happy with the condition of Flash. A few things to do but I don't think it'll take too much to get it running. The the real work will start to sort things out properly, but it'll be nice to have it mobile so I can move it around without having to tow or push it. Hopefully by this summer it'll be useful for working around the block, collecting firewood and clearing the firebreak. Fun, fun, fun!

[klonk]

Got to love those busy rodents, klonks chassis was full of plastic, grass and baling string.

Certainly lucky it didnt put a new meaning to his name.

Its kind of dissapointing to find stuff has been welded to the cappings and hoops. I have the same problem on klonk, priced up getting stuff regalved $1.50 per Kg of steel weight, includes the acid bath to remove rust and paint, not too bad.

Ive also seen complete wiring harnesses available in England for around 140 pounds.

Cheers Steve

[chazza]

So I have some work in front of me to sort the wiring out. In the mean time I'll try to figure out what I need to do to bypass the ignition and power only to where it's needed for a test start.

Top report John! I had some Rover mice in mine as well - obviously they know a bit of quality when they find it :)

If you get a length of light automotive wire and put a crocodile clip on each end, you can then connect it from the battery live to the coil negative (I think). If you get the coil terminal wrong it doesn't matter too much, as you will still get spark although slightly weaker. If yours is an old coil it will be marked CB (contact breaker) and from memory SW (switch) so connect to the SW side. Disconnect the coil from your ignition switch first! I bought packets of crocodile clips from K-Mart I think.

Once you have done that the coil is being energised, so don't go away and do something else, or else the coil will overheat and kark it.

Have you tried the starter motor yet? On mine I had to prise open the starter solenoid and soak the internals in a glass of lemon juice to clean them and then reassemble with vaseline on the contacts,

Cheers Charlie

[JayBoRover]

Top report John! I had some Rover mice in mine as well - obviously they know a bit of quality when they find it :)

If you get a length of light automotive wire and put a crocodile clip on each end, you can then connect it from the battery live to the coil negative (I think). If you get the coil terminal wrong it doesn't matter too much, as you will still get spark although slightly weaker. If yours is an old coil it will be marked CB (contact breaker) and from memory SW (switch) so connect to the SW side. Disconnect the coil from your ignition switch first! I bought packets of crocodile clips from K-Mart I think.

Once you have done that the coil is being energised, so don't go away and do something else, or else the coil will overheat and kark it.

Have you tried the starter motor yet? On mine I had to prise open the starter solenoid and soak the internals in a glass of lemon juice to clean them and then reassemble with vaseline on the contacts,

Cheers Charlie
"Rover mice". A special breed!:D
So power to the starter motor via the push button and to the coil directly from the battery and it should fire? Cool. I figured it must come down to fairly simple circuit on these old things.

I have turned it over with the starter motor. It was a bit slow initially but freed itself up a bit. I did that with the plugs out so it didn't have to work too hard. I have also had it turn the engine over with the plugs in, and it manages that but a bit slow. I suspect a bit of TLC along the lines of your experience will help it along even further. At this stage I just want to get it mobile so I can move it from it's current garage into the workshop shed without having to use DeeDee to push it with an old tyre between them. Then I'll start on getting it cleaned up and running properly and that's when I'll strip and clean up all the ancillary gear like starter motor, carby, etc.

[chazza]

Don't forget that you can always use the starting handle to get it going.

I use the handle with low-range engaged to move my S2A about :D

Cheers Charlie

[JayBoRover]

My goodness 6 months flew past! I finally had a bit of a chance to have a look at the '55 today and just saw my previous post on this was 6 months ago! Ah well.

So progress today was I cleaned up the distributor cap and replaced all the HT leads. Then I removed the fuel filter, fuel pump and carby. Cleaned the filter up (photo's tomorrow) and it came up like new. The inside bottom of the glass bowl was full of crap, the glass itself was coated in a hard crusty film but all cleaned up to mint with some elbow grease. There was still fuel in the bowl, although its smell was quite off. The fuel tank itself is dry as a bone and mint clean inside except for maybe a dozen grains of sand.

Tomorrow I'll clean up the fuel pump and carby and get them back on. A bit more lube down the plug holes and I might take the starter motor off to clean that up internally a bit. I'm going for a start in the next few days.
Once it's a running engine I need to remove everything in the cooling circuit and sort out several leaks, but getting the engine running will be a big motivator to press on.
Ciao
John B

[JayBoRover]

Okay, a few photo's as promised. Firstly yesterday's work result - the fuel filter bowl. I didn't get a "before" photo unfortunately, but you'll get the "picture" seeing the differences in some of the other work. (Or check under the bonnet of your own unrestored S1 as it's likely to be in similar state to how mine looked "before":p).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/171.jpg

The fuel pump was next on the hit list. I discovered that the plastic cap is slightly broken, but not badly enough to worry me too much at this stage in the game.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/172.jpg

I stripped it down and cleaned everything inside. Most of the internals were covered in a fine white powder. The gauze filter in the bottom was also coated in this powder but cleaned off okay. The wire wheel took care of the outside and the brass fittings. Result ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/173.jpg

I next moved on to the fuel pipes and flexible lines. I didn't bother taking photo's of those. After that I started on the most important part, the carby.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/174.jpg

I got the float bowl and float itself pretty clean and then removed a jet and cleaned that. Ran into a significant problem when I replaced the jet in it's home ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/170.jpg

That kind of took the wind out of my sails a bit. By this time I was also late for going to the movies with the wife and sister, so I'll face reality tomorrow when I find out whether the broken part is replaceable from my '64 S2a donor. If not, I'm up defecation creek without a paddle:(.

Ciao for now.
John B

[wrinklearthur]

Ran into a significant problem when I replaced the jet in it's home ...
bhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/170.jpg

Hi John

Sorry to see that part has broken on your carby.
I'm currently working on a carby for 'HECter', sadly I am still waiting for a new after market carby to show up that I ordered from a seller in 16-Nov-12, now I have been forced to open a dispute in the Resolution Centre because of the cutoff date arriving.
I can't say any more than that, other to say, I am deeply disappointed with that seller.

That broken piece, is that part of the body and not the top cover? :confused:
I will have to look at my carby again, as I think I am missing the same piece that has broken on one of the two Solex Model; 32PB1-2 that I have here.
That leaves me with only one undamaged Solex that I can use, but I still have some other parts missing, when I find the union banjo and the banjo bolt with it's gauze filter and the washers, I will be able to rebuild and fit an original carby.

I personally don't like the Stromberg for steep country, as their float arrangement allows the fuel level to vary too much as the vehicle tilts.
.

[russellrovers]

Hi John

Sorry to see that part has broken on your carby.
I'm currently working on a carby for 'HECter', sadly I am still waiting for a new after market carby to show up that I ordered from a seller in 16-Nov-12, now I have been forced to open a dispute in the Resolution Centre because of the cutoff date arriving.
I can't say any more than that, other to say, I am deeply disappointed with that seller.

That broken piece, is that part of the body and not the top cover? :confused:
I will have to look at my carby again, as I think I am missing the same piece that has broken on one of the two Solex Model; 32PB1-2 that I have here.
That leaves me with only one undamaged Solex that I can use, but I still have some other parts missing, when I find the union banjo and the banjo bolt with it's gauze filter and the washers, I will be able to rebuild and fit an original carby.

I personally don't like the Stromberg for steep country, as their float arrangement allows the fuel level to vary too much as the vehicle tilts.
.
hi ring me i may be able to help jim

[incisor]

That kind of took the wind out of my sails a bit. By this time I was also late for going to the movies with the wife and sister, so I'll face reality tomorrow when I find out whether the broken part is replaceable from my '64 S2a donor. If not, I'm up defecation creek without a paddle:(.

Ciao for now.
John B

looks like the perfect scenario for using loctite 454 industrial superglue

use the primer as well...

[JayBoRover]

So I completed the cleaning of the carby and glued up the broken bit so had to leave it undisturbed to harden. My attention was diverted for a while to finishing the re-wiring of a trailer but then decided to make a start on checking the cooling system on the 86".

First up though, here's the cleaned up distributor and nice new HT leads:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/82.jpg
I struck a bargain on the leads. Went to a REPCO and asked for 7mm stranded HT cable. They found a roll out the back so I asked for 2m - enough to do the 86" and 80". He enters it in the till and says "That can't be right. It says its $.378/m. I think it should be $3.78/m." So he picks up the phone and rings the REPCO service centre and I hear him state that he has a "cost price greater than customer price" issue and he states the stock number. They must have responded that its okay as he hangs up and then says "2m ... that'll be 75 cents". I respond "2m? ... No, I need 10m." So I hand over a fiver and get change!:clap2:

Then onto the cooling system. First job was to remove the radiator. I want to give it a good look over and cleanup. It will also give me a chance to have a good look at the hoses and thermostat housing, water pump, etc. I start by spraying a bit of WD40 on the various nuts and bolts and in the process discover where the original owner hid the spare key:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/83.jpg

Radiator out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/84.jpg

Looks to be in pretty good condition!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/85.jpg

No major drama's in getting this far. The top and bottom radiator hoses are both going to need replacing and I had to cut one of the clamps off. The thermostat housing is in better condition than the photo makes it look, but I'll have a good look at it tomorrow. All the radiator bolts came out without issue, making me think the rad has been out in the not too distant past which explains the condition of it as well. It was good to see the front cross member looks as good from the top as it does from every other direction. The chassis in this 86" is a very good one:thumbsup:. I understand it had been in covered storage for 20 years before I got it.

Another day tomorrow, so let's see what that brings along.
Ciao

[JayBoRover]

More action today. I could get used to this having time off work to play with Landy's:). Shame I have to go back to work on Wednesday:(.

Anyway, the target for the day was the thermostat housing so I could get a better look at it and see what needs attention. I also figured that getting a good look at the housing and the various pipes attached would give me a good idea of how serious I might have to get with the engine.

So I got the hoses off, that was a tough job that took a fair amount of sweat:bat:! Needless to say, none of the hoses have survived:no2:.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1553.jpg

I got the nuts off the top of the alloy housing easy enough (back and forwards a fair bit and lots of penetrating oil) but the housing itself was stuck onto the steel housing pretty solidly. I decided the whole thing would have to come off so I could attack it in a big bench vice.
Note the unusual arrangement for the water hose connection on the lhs in the photo.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1554.jpg

So a fair bit of rust came out! This is about half of it. The other thing to note in this photo is the oval pipe shape for the hose adapter fitting. The correct fitting had obviously been damaged, lost or corroded away in the past so the farmer had a "fix" - in true outback bush mechanic fashion.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1555.jpg

One large nut with two smaller nuts welded on to make the "oval" shape. There was lot's of silicon sealant smothered around it too:eek:. Classic stuff!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1556.jpg

Then a couple of steel fittings to make a smooth diameter section for the hose to clamp over and Bob's your uncle. Of course the use of steel fitting didn't do a lot for the long term survival of the cooling system. I found a couple of ports completely blocked by rust so I suspect the engine may have been retired after over heating one too many times. Maybe I'll need to have a look at the insides after all.

I am a little lucky in that I was given an engine a couple of years ago that is completely stuffed (head was left unbolted with the engine in the weather behind a farmers shed for many years) but it has a fairly good looking thermostat housing and the correct pipework and hoses. (They're the only reason I took the engine). It's stashed away in the back of a shed lean-to, so I'll have to do some digging past lots of others bits and pieces to get to it and have a good look.

Till next time.

[klonk]

Good to see you making progress. Didnt know they had thermostat housings made of cast, better than ally ones. If you need parts for that area talk to Chazza, he made me one for klonk. He does the side pipe for the housing as well as the accel pedal housing.

Cheers Steve

[LandyAndy]

Good to see you making progress. Didnt know they had thermostat housings made of cast, better than ally ones. If you need parts for that area talk to Chazza, he made me one for klonk. He does the side pipe for the housing as well as the accel pedal housing.

Cheers Steve
Have seen some of Chazzas work,he is pretty meticulous,he is a neighbor,well 30 odd Ks away;);););)
Andrew

[wrinklearthur]

I will have to look at my carby again, as I think I am missing the same piece that has broken on one of the two Solex Model; 32PB1-2 that I have here.
That leaves me with only one undamaged Solex that I can use, but I still have some other parts missing, when I find the union banjo and the banjo bolt with it's gauze filter and the washers, I will be able to rebuild and fit an original carby.


I have come across a very useful parts illustration for the Solex PBI-2.

Gower & Lee Solex PBI-2 Page (http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/PBI-2type.html)

.

[JayBoRover]

Another day, another bunch of work done on "Flash".
I fixed the broken Emulsion tube in the carby yesterday. I ended up using a product called "Devcon". While hunting through the display racks looking for the Loctite 454 that incisor recommended, I came across the two-pack kit of Devcon. I had previously used Devcon many years ago when building a Formula III race bike back in my road racing days. It is brilliant stuff for use in engines as it dries harder than aluminium, is resistant to petrol and oil and bonds really well.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1529.jpg

So got the carby back together with all the internals clean.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1530.jpg

So I mentioned in a previous post that I was going to look at a donor engine I have sitting around to see if the thermostat housing is useable. This is the donor:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1531.jpg

It also has the pipe between the radiator and the thermostat housing that looks like it might be better than the one I removed from Flash.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1532.jpg

Both the housing and the lid are cast steel. Of course this time there was no thermostat actually inside ... just the usual pile of rust. There was far less rust than I found in Flash though, so looking promising for using it as replacement parts.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1533.jpg

After a bit of a clean-up with the wire wheel and wire brush with elbow grease. I used the donor lid and the Flash housing, so a matched set of cast steel now.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1534.jpg

The hole in the bottom of the housing, where it connects with the water pump, was blocked solidly with rust. I tapped it out and then used a dremel to clean it up somewhat. Can someone tell me the purpose of the hole? Also I wouldn't mind knowing what the diameter of the hole is supposed to be, as I dremelled it out some but I can't tell how far I'm supposed to go.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1535.jpg

I also cleaned up the pulley wheel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1536.jpg

The fan awaits the same treatment.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1277.jpg

The front grille emblem might get a minor panel-beat and some paint too. It'll be the only outside visible thing on the car that will be evident of attention ... at this stage anyway.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1144.jpg

Back to work tomorrow so back to occasional attention to Flash for a while.

[chazza]

The hole in the bottom of the housing is the water bypass passage; often seen as a small hose connecting the head and the water pump on other types of engines.

There should be a fourth hole about 3mm in dia on the head side of the engine, which allows air in the head to bleed out into the housing,

Cheers Charlie

[wrinklearthur]

Hi John

Sorry to see that part has broken on your carby.
I'm currently working on a carby for 'HECter', sadly I am still waiting for a new after market carby to show up that I ordered from a seller in 16-Nov-12, now I have been forced to open a dispute in the Resolution Centre because of the cutoff date arriving.
I can't say any more than that, other to say, I am deeply disappointed with that seller. ---------------
-----------

Oh well it took a while but the carby, wheel bearings and a rubber surround for the gearstick hole have arrived today 2-1-2013.
Once bitten twice shy they say.

That broken part on one of my carby's will take some replacing as it was long gone before I ended up with the parts.
Good fix on that one of yours though, I will keep in in mind .
.

[dreamin']

Great progress and pics, John - thanks for sharing them

2 questions:

How did you clean the carb - chemical cleaner?

With the therm housing etc, how are you planning to finish them - paint?

Keep up the good work

Roger

[klonk]

John
Noticed your spare engine has a double pulley on the water pump, this was used to drive the governer unit for the PTO. Could be a wanted part for someone.

[JayBoRover]

Great progress and pics, John - thanks for sharing them

2 questions:

How did you clean the carb - chemical cleaner?

With the therm housing etc, how are you planning to finish them - paint?

Keep up the good work

Roger
Hi Roger,
Firstly the whole carby was placed in an ice-cream container with a 1/2" of petrol in it. I used a toothbrush and a thin paintbrush to get as much of the oil soaked grime from the outside.

Next up it gets blown with compressed air before I take it all apart. Every part then gets to spend a bit of time with the wire wheel on the bench-top grinder and then a hand wire brush for finishing where I can't get to it on the wheel. If there's anything really stubborn, I use a dremel-like tool with whatever attachment gives me best access and result without damaging the actual aluminium. Then bolt it all together again.

The therm housing will be left as the cast finish, at least for now. It develops a nice "agricultural" patina over time, and I'm not after a show pony car;). I just want it drivable and (relatively) safe.

Thanks for your interest.


John
Noticed your spare engine has a double pulley on the water pump, this was used to drive the governer unit for the PTO. Could be a wanted part for someone.
Well spotted:). At the moment it won't come off (sheared all the bolts and still won't budge!) so if someone wanted it they'd have to take the whole engine. What's that saying ... "one man's trash, another man's treasure"?:p

Cheers
John B

[wrinklearthur]

Well spotted . At the moment it won't come off (sheared all the bolts and still won't budge!)

Use some Penatrine to crack the bind of the rusted together surfaces, then if you haven't any of that, try dabbing on some diesel.
.

[JayBoRover]

I bought myself a new toy for the workshop - always wanted one of these:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1276.jpg
It was on special at Hare & Forbes for December. Of course they were actually closed during the Xmas/NY break, but their on-line shop had them so I ordered it at the special price. Picked it up on Friday afternoon and got it up and running on Saturday.

First job out was turning this ...:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1144.jpg

... into this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1142.jpg
Just needs some care and time to carefully paint the black back on. One of these days.

Next out was this ...:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1277.jpg

... into this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1278.jpg
Of course this is after a coat of paint.

I can see the bead-blaster getting lots of use!!! I'll have to buy some co****r garnet before attempting anything too much bigger. (I've started using it to clean up the front grille of my Massey Ferguson and it's taking aaaaaaages).

[Landy Smurf]

I have always looked at those and wondered what they would be like. those came up a treat I might have to get myself one...one day

[JayBoRover]

I'll have to buy some co****r garnet before attempting anything too much bigger.
I'm stumped as to why the word for garnet of a heavier granule (like the opposite of a smoother sand paper and sounds like course-er) would result in being asterisk censored:censored:. Anyone care to enlighten me? Maybe if I spelt it "kor-sir" it would be okay but doesn't really help our education does it??:angel::wasntme:

[Landy Smurf]

co**** because it has bottom in it

[andy_d110]

Lets play "Guess that word" with everybody's favourite host JayBo.

1) He****

2) ****nic

3) Ho****

4) Sp****


First contestant to get all four words correct will take home a Genuine one owner 1948 centre steer Tickford Fire engine prototype from the Tanzania Ground Nut Scheme.

We now return you to your regular programming.

[chazza]

Because whomever set the naughty-word censor, doesn't appreciate the English language at all and thinks that we have to be protected from rude words such as; "might mean bottom" and and a word beginning with P that means several things, but is actually the first part of the name for a very pointy centre-punch.

The answer to the P-word can be found in this clue - The Princess P'd her thumb on the thorn.

I haven't tried the naughty word for a file that suggests it is of illegitimate birth (to describe it as rough might avoid the "naughty bottom" connotation) - I gave up after I correctly described a sharp extremely pointy centre-punch and got a warning for it!

Cheers Charlie

[JayBoRover]

Lets play "Guess that word" with everybody's favourite host JayBo.

1) He****

2) ****nic

3) Ho****

4) Sp****


First contestant to get all four words correct will take home a Genuine one owner 1948 centre steer Tickford Fire engine prototype from the Tanzania Ground Nut Scheme.

We now return you to your regular programming.
Hmm. So if a person went ho**** shouting for help due to a dose of ****nic and ended up sp**** of heartbeat resulting in a trip in the he****, he'd be in even bigger trouble with the AULRO mod's than he's already in?:wasntme::D

[andy_d110]

Hmm. So if a person went ho**** shouting for help due to a dose of ****nic and ended up sp**** of heartbeat resulting in a trip in the he****, he'd be in even bigger trouble with the AULRO mod's than he's already in?:wasntme::D

Congrats you win a prize.

[back_in]

Hi

Thought in 2013 we may have a few with something good to say on this site
good to see nothing has changed
children at play
lets hope 2014 is a improvement
cheers
Ian

[JayBoRover]

Yep Ian, you're right. We did stray off the topic of this very serious thread and it's entirely my fault for not being clued up enough to recognise the naughtiness of the word I was trying to quite innocently use;).

Perhaps an equal hope for 2014 for be for "a few with" ... a pinch of a sense of humour:p. I really don't see this thread as being one with nothing "good to say", just a little lighthearted diversion. I would think you'd be hard pressed to find someone with as positive an attitude as I have, so maybe your outlook on this thread is reflective more of your "Thanks" count than any sentiment of nothing "good to say on this site"?:angel: See you in 2014.

Cheers
John B

[JayBoRover]

So, back to the thread topic ...
The original paint on the grille emblem was a flat black for the background, but there seems to be some remnant of another colour, maybe restricted to the raised lettering. Anyone know what colour the background and lettering should be on a '55 86"?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1144.jpg

[chazza]

Looks to be red on yours but I don't know anymore than that, other than:
Fire engines had red labels;
Some badges were a black field with silver letters;
or a green field with yellow letters;
or a green field with red letters.

I don't know when the variations occurred, so I suggest a forensic examination of yours using a fine scraper of some sort,

Cheers Charlie

[JayBoRover]

so I suggest a forensic examination of yours using a fine scraper of some sort,
Cheers Charlie
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1142.jpg
Oops ... too late.
The red was definitely under the black, so may have either been a previous colour or an undercoat. The red also seems to be both on the lettering and under the black on the background. I'll consult with the James Taylor book and see if I can get some direction from that.
Cheers

[andy_d110]

All of the original black badges I have seen have had a machined sort of finish showing bare ally on the letters and bordering oval. It looks like the letters have been resprayed at some point, maybe it is an etch primer undercoat?

[JayBoRover]

After something like 20 years of being stored, the '55 has started and runs!:MileStone::banana:
I bought it off eBay as a "non-runner", but the PO couldn't tell me why it wouldn't run - just said it'd been stored with his late cousin for 12 years and he thought it was at least 8 years prior to that when it was parked up. Basically all I've done is fit new LT (spark plug) and HT leads, clean and gap the spark plugs, clean and gap the points and strip, clean the carby and wire a switch directly between the battery and the coil. (The wiring is very "miced" in the instrument panel and I don't want to start with a fire). The flexible fuel line between the fuel pump and the carby leaks like a sieve (and I couldn't get the fuel pump to work) so I mounted a small bottle directly to the carby and poured a little fuel in. Choke on, a bit of throttle and away it went!:cool: The racket brought the missus running out from the house (no exhaust after the first part of the header through the guard). I didn't run it for long because the radiator and cooling hoses are not installed, but long enough, and a few times, to know it's a runner now.
I'll post a picture later of the set-up under the bonnet:D.

Very happy John B:arms:

[klonk]

Whoo hoo too
If it had a rusted chassis beatup body buggered diffs blown g/box but the engine starts, who cares, its got a heartbeat. :arms:

[JayBoRover]

Here's the test run set-up. Not exactly lab conditions - not unless you're a Dr Jeckyl type anyway. (That might be the case for Klonk, with his reference to a heartbeat in the little monster Flash):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/107.jpg

New spark plug leads and HT lead from the coil:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/108.jpg

Missing a few bits of the cooling system ...:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/109.jpg

... But have fuel and air going straight to the carby unhindered.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/110.jpg

Fuel, spark and air is the recipe yes? The quantities don't matter so much with an old engine like this so just throw them into a cylinder and stir:D.

My plan was to get it running s I could advertise it as running, but now that I got it running, I'm starting to think ... hmmm ... The trouble is it's "Dakar budget" just sitting there in the garage.

[wrinklearthur]

Ah! I looked at those picture for ages, it saved me a walk in the moonlight to get my lot of series one, eyeball fix for this evening . :wasntme:

.

[Defender Mike]

Well did it start John? The vacum advance looks u/s but you have done a nice job on the carby. Mine would fire up very easy and idle on gravity feed even though it wouldn't rev until i fixed the fuel pump.Once you drive it around the yard you will want tyo keep it. I got my top rail from Radfords now need a good sheety to weld it on. Then the bulkhead can go back and things will start to move. I am going to buy a full new set of nuts and bolts from the UK . :)

[chazza]

I got my top rail from Radfords now need a good sheety to weld it on.

Mike, find someone with a spot welder with long arms on it and spot-weld the new panel in place; that is how I did mine,

Cheers Charlie

[JayBoRover]

Well did it start John? The vacum advance looks u/s but you have done a nice job on the carby.

Choke on, a bit of throttle and away it went! The racket brought the missus running out from the house (no exhaust after the first part of the header through the guard). I didn't run it for long because the radiator and cooling hoses are not installed, but long enough, and a few times, to know it's a runner now.
Not sure why you say the vacuum advance looks u/s. It's fine. That is to say it's connected at both ends and the engine revs and idles no problems.
Yep, I suspect things will change when I get to take it for a drive. Unfortunately the eBay seller I am trying to buy hoses from doesn't seem to want to replay to my request for a quote. Anyone know where I can buy some coolant system hoses from? Also now need the flexible hose between the fuel pump and the carby.
Ciao
John B

[cjc_td5]

Not sure why you say the vacuum advance looks u/s. It's fine. That is to say it's connected at both ends and the engine revs and idles no problems.
Yep, I suspect things will change when I get to take it for a drive. Unfortunately the eBay seller I am trying to buy hoses from doesn't seem to want to replay to my request for a quote. Anyone know where I can buy some coolant system hoses from? Also now need the flexible hose between the fuel pump and the carby.
Ciao
John B

Hi JohnB,
For my 86", I got my coolant hoses from Supercrap by going through their bin of hoses until I found ones that fitted (or could be cut to fit). I did have the old hoses for guides though. From memory, most of mine were meant for hiace vans etc. They are all fairly simple bends or straights so are easy to match hoses to.

Cheers,

[wrinklearthur]

. I am going to buy a full new set of nuts and bolts from the UK .

Hmmm, what we need is a complete list for every screw, washer, nut and bolt the series one has, showing all the shank, head sizes and tensile strength's.

A big job, but first has that work already been done?
.

[wrinklearthur]

Unfortunately the eBay seller I am trying to buy hoses from doesn't seem to want to replay to my request for a quote.

Hi John

Doesn't that give you the willies, so often I have had a bun fight with sellers over their freight charges, all because they haven't replied and then they try and send their parts the most expensive way they can find, only because it suits??? them.

And they don't have to be overseas to cause grief either.

Could we by using the BCC function PM each other with our good and bad experiences, that would make the sellers sharpen their pencils up?
.

[Landy Smurf]

I am looking overseas for parts s1 parts are still no way near as cheap as s2/2a/3 but still easy to get most of them from there all from the pc the only down side with over there is if it is wrong it is a bit hard to return i suppose.

[chazza]

Anyone know where I can buy some coolant system hoses from? Also now need the flexible hose between the fuel pump and the carby.
Ciao
John B

Try Alex here Series 1 Land Rover Parts (http://www.seriesoneshop.com/index.html)

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Hi JohnB,
For my 86", I got my coolant hoses from Supercrap by going through their bin of hoses until I found ones that fitted (or could be cut to fit). I did have the old hoses for guides though. From memory, most of mine were meant for hiace vans etc. They are all fairly simple bends or straights so are easy to match hoses to.

Cheers,

I did much the same for my 86" radiator hoses, sorted through the SuperCreep hose basket.
I did make a note of the numbers but then SuperCheap changed suppliers so none of the numbers matched !!!
One was made from part of a bottom hose for a Toyota Corolla (1975-79).

4 Wheel Drives in Blackburn list a top & bottom hose at $22 each.


Here is the filter and a worn hose connecting it to the carby that will go onto my 86" at some point. It currently runs a holden carby & filter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/63.jpg

Colin

[wrinklearthur]

I use Four Wheel Drives Melbourne, ask for Jim

4Wd Spare Parts
13 Terracotta Drive,
Blackburn. Vic 3130
Ph. (03) 98 900 509

Very helpful and quick when I got stuck last year with our D1 when we had over heating problems and a failed water pump in Apollo Bay.

They can also find most things quickly for the early series Land Rovers as well.
.

[wrinklearthur]

Here is the filter and a worn hose connecting it to the carby that will go onto my 86" at some point. It currently runs a holden carby & filter.

Hi Colin

Check this eBay site out for good after market series one Solex copies.

eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370671141157'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

.

[gromit]

Hi Colin

Check this eBay site out for good after market series one Solex copies.

eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370671141157'ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649)

.

Thanks Arthur,

I have a carby that came with the aircleaner & hose, just needs refurbishing.


Colin

[JayBoRover]

I went and bought a couple of cooling system hoses that I cut to suit the job, so Flash now has new hoses everywhere required. The I filled up the system with water, hooked up the battery I removed from the S2a, poured some fuel in the bottle attached to the carby and hit the starter button. Fired into life without a moments hesitation:cool:.
Slipped it into gear and drove it out the garage and around the paddock. The wife got talked into filming me with the iPhone. As soon as I figure out how to save it somewhere useful so I can link it here, I'll post it on here. (Tried a couple of times on Photobucket but must be doing something wrong).
Anyway, a good day:)!

[JayBoRover]

Having gotten Flash running I thought I'd better see what it would take to get some sort of braking system working. Either the hand brake or foot brake would do, anything to mean I don't have to consider my "emergency options" every time I'm driving it around. So I relocated it into a carport with better all around access than the double garage it was sharing with the '50 80".
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1082.jpg

The wheels came off easily enough, although some of the studs came out easier than the nuts. Unfortunately I couldn't get any of the actual hubs off easily, to check the brake shoes and cylinders, so that will have to wait until I get some heat ready. So I removed the handbrake instead. Found the lever and all the pivots worked okay, but one of the shoes was missing any sort of friction material. The other had a bit of meat left on it but it was roughed up badly by picking up metal scores from the metal to metal contact of the other shoe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/113.jpg

My attention then got diverted to the remaining sections of the horrible steel canopy Flash used to have, so I got stuck in with the grinder and cold chisel to remove the rear sections as gently as I could. I really want to avoid damaging the hoops and tub capping as much as possible:angel:. One side done:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/114.jpg

The steel panel had been welded most of the way along the rear tub capping:mad:, but I think I got away without damaging it too much so far. There's a fair bit of weld material to remove though.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/115.jpg

The rear hoop was not so lucky:(. The welding was pretty bad and the welder had obviously blown a few holes in the light tubing where it was being welded to the heavy duty steel angle used to make the door frame on the inside edge of the rear panel:mad:. Quite nasty:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/116.jpg

A bit of work to do again for the other side, but I'm reasonably happy with how it's starting to look. It's going to be a shame to have to pass this one on, as it's looking quite good and promises to be a reasonable restoration prospect, especially when I can sell it as running and stopping - even if poorly and poorly. :D

[LoveB]

Let me know hwo you go with the brakes mate... I'm on the same boat at the moment!

[JayBoRover]

I got a little while to spend on Flash this weekend, so managed to remove the other section of steel panel from the rear hoop:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1083.jpg

I did claen up the dodgy welding on the tub capping at the rear. It'll need more work later on before getting re-galvanised one day. In the mean-time it'll get some cold galv or a coat of primer to keep it from rusting.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1084.jpg

I haven't quite worked out how I'm going to work with the middle hoop that is welded to the tub capping. One day.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1085.jpg

That's it for now. I put the wheels back on and drove it back into its garage. I need the carport space for the Massey Fergusson that's actually earning its keep.;)

[klonk]

What model Fergie do you have John?, I did my apprenticeship with a Fergie dealer in NZ back in the 70s and 80s ,if you ever have any issues with it. Might have to use some mollasis to clean some the rust off the brain though.(Might work better if I ferment it first.:twisted:)
I also had to clean up the capping on klonk after someone welded something to it

Cheers Steve

[k1000o]

G'day John,

I've followed this post for a while, what a nice job you're doing so far !! I'd have liked to meet you 'n your fascinating project in person when I lived in Perth (as an international student, now I'm back home). Congrats anyway ! :)

May I ask you, what are those numbers on the body ? What d' they actually mean ?

(...) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/1082.jpg (...)

Nice work again.
Cheers,
Cam :)

[JayBoRover]

What model Fergie do you have John?, I did my apprenticeship with a Fergie dealer in NZ back in the 70s and 80s ,if you ever have any issues with it. Might have to use some mollasis to clean some the rust off the brain though.(Might work better if I ferment it first.:twisted:)
I also had to clean up the capping on klonk after someone welded something to it

Cheers Steve
Hi Steve,
It's a MF135. It's about 1970 vintage - prior to the straight front axle. Fitted with front end loader, ROPS and carry-all and I bought a 5' PTO slasher to keep the paddocks and road verge under control. Nice old thing with the Perkins diesel:cool:.


May I ask you, what are those numbers on the body ? What d' they actually mean ?

The numbers are:
- the "Tare weight" (T 1219 kg). This is the weight of the vehicle only, without load.
- The "Aggregate weight" (A 2083 kg). This is the total allowed loaded weight. Sometimes you see a GVM and CVM (mostly on trucks) which is Gross Vehicle Mass (effectively same as A) and Combined Vehicle Mass (which includes trailer weight).
They are used as part of the registration (licensing) for commercial vehicles and would have been required as part of it's working history.

The numbers on the side of Flash will be removed one day:).

Were you here on an exchange program? My wife is quite involved with "Youth For Understanding" as a Community Volunteer and we occassionally have students stay with us between relocations. Columbia is a bit far, but I should be in South America later this year for the Dakar Rally in Bolivia (possibly), Peru, Argentina and Chile.

Cheers
John B