60,000km Service RRS 2.7

[101RRS]

My RRS TDV6 has clocked up 60,000km so it is service time. Normally this would be an 'O' service so mainly an oil and filter change but I would like/need to do some additional work as oulined below. I have researched as best I can and have come up with oil specs and volumes for the fluid changes I want to make.

This is what I am intending:

RRS 60,000km Service
O Service
· Engine oil – 5.54 litres of 5W/30 oil to specification WSS-M2C-913B meeting ACEA B1/B3 spec grade oil (what does that mean in plain language 5w/30 synthetic?

Other work
· Replace fuel filter because it was not done at 48,000km
· Check air filter – replace if necessary – due for replacement next service
· Replace rear diff oil – 1.1 litres of Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90 spec grade oil
· Replace front diff oil – .61 litres of Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90 spec grade oil
· Replace transfer case oil – 1.5 litres of Shell TF 0753 spec grade oil
· A basic drain of gear box oil – 3.5-4 litres of Shell M13754 spec grade oil
· Replace brake fluid – SHELL DONAX YB DOT4 ESL FLUID over due by 2 years
· Replace brake rotors if under spec – min 17 mm rear, min 27 mm front
· Replace brake pads if down – min 3 mm rear, min 3 mm front
· Replace park brake pads if down – min 2mm
I understand I will need to get tfr and gearbox oil from Landrover and pay their prices - are there any issues getting the other fluids from the usual sources?? What does the engine oil spec mean in plain english?

The low brake warning lights come on at 75% worn (mine have not as yet) - what does this equate to pad thickness?? Mine pad thickness is 3mm - is this more or less than the 75%. If I left the pads and the light came on before the next service I understand the sensors will need replacing - what sort of cost are these?

I am happy about doing the work but always happy to take pointers from those who have done it before.

Thanks

Garry

[Nomad9]

Hi Garycol,
I use the ZF lifeguard 6 oil in the gearbox which is the right oil for the gearbox, it is still prety expensive but I could buy this from a ZF agent cheaper than LR. I use a full synthetic 5W-30 in the engine, I use full synthetics in the difs and transfer case, personally I use the Royal Purple 75W-90 full synthetic in the transfer case as well. As far as I could find out the TF 0753 was a 75W-90 weight oil, I've been using these oils now for about 15k, everything is a smooth as silk.
There is a taxi mob in Sydney running the RP ATF in the gearbox in their BMWs which from what I understand in the same box as the LR box for many many klms without problem. As soon as I finish of my Lifeguard oil I could well be changing over. Not 100% sure yet.
Additional items, does the RRS have a pollen filter behind the glovebox? Might be worth considering.

[101RRS]

Thanks for that information - great stuff. The pollen filter is due next service so I will pull the one I have out and just tap any stuff out. I do not use fresh air when I am offroad so I am confident it is OK - I have a spare if it is really dirty.

In two services time I will be doing the major gearbox service - replacing the filter and sump with a metal one and doing a mega flush. This basic oil change should keep the oil happy until then.

Cheers

Garry

[bobzed57]

Garry

Let me know how you get on. My D3 goes in for its 60k service on 6 Feb.

Cheers

Bob

[101RRS]

Bob - The 60K service is just an oil and filter change, a check of the battery and if your car is three years old a brake fluid change. If other services have been done correctly and on time there is nothing else to, not even checking the pads etc :(.

Listening to some of the stories on here and a lack of service history on my car (mainly oil changes) I am intending to do the things I have listed, to bring the servicing back to a known baseline. I will then follow the service schedule with the exception of the air filter, diffs, tfr case and gearbox oils which will be done on a 48,000 - 96,000km schedule.

I will be doing the work myself - don't trust any of the so called local experts - and contracting out any particular bits I cannot do - looking at the workshop manual it looks stgraight forward - basically no different to any other car.

Garry

[stig0000]

the pad sensors are about 40$ and easy to change,,

[Ivan]

You can get the Royal Purple Oil for $25 a litre from ebay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Royal-Purple-Max-Gear-Oil-75W90-75W140-85W140-Quart-/170629579005?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ba50c0fd)

HTH

Ivan

[101RRS]

Went shopping for engine oil and of course nothing has specs exactly the same as listed by landrover. Plenty of 5w30 fully synthetic oil ranging in price from $50 to $100 for 5 litres but none with the exact same numbers in the detail specs.

I ended up with Shell Helix full synthetic Ultra Extra 5w30 - is slightly better spec than required - the other oil that seemed to fit the bill was a Nulon 5w30 Euro spec but at nearly $100 for 5 litres was a bit more expensive.

So what engine oil are people using in their TDV6s.

Also a trick for new players - put some nice clean rag in the oil filler hole when you take the the top engine cover off. I didn't, and some dust from a recent 4wding trip that was on the underside of the engine cover fell into the oil filler hole :(. Likewise it is easy for any water or dirt around the filler to fall into the oil filler hole even with the engine cover on.

Cheers

Garry

[Mike_S]

Garry

I use Castrol Magnatec 5W30. In the UK it's badged as A1 with a Ford logo on the front of the container. On the back it gives the specs, I'm quoting here but the wording is as follows:

SAE 5W-30; API SL; ILSAC GF-3; ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5;
Meets Ford WSS-M2C913-A; WSS-M2C913-B, WSS-M2C-913-C

There are a couple of different specs of Magnatec here I've noticed, but it may be worth you checking it out.

I picked up 10 litres of the stuff before I left the UK when a supermarket chain had it on a ridiculous offer, I think something like 30% of the normal price. It was posted up on the D3 forum, I don't think the supermarkets knew what had hit them when every Land Rover owner for miles around descended on them! I got the last containers the local one had. My independant went in to his local and bought a pallet of it from them, it was cheaper than he can buy it direct from Castrol.

By the way, your RAI passed the southern coast of Spain yesterday...

[101RRS]

Thanks for that Mike - when putting the oil in the car I noticed that the filler cap has a notice that Landrover recommends Castrol SAE 5w 30. Certainly at the Repco, Autopro and Supercheap stores I looked at they did not have any Castrol oil that met specs - but I could have gone over to the Castrol distributor and got it.

My first oil change went OK I guess - why are two of the nuts that the bolts hold the undertray on not captive - seems strange not to make them all captive? Also I wonder how long it will be that a disposable screw in oil filter is made - the current arrangement is a bit backward. I had some trouble getting the old filter out of the housing but a bit of gentle prising with a screw driver got it out.

I did the right thing for once and actually used my tension wrench (18ft ibs) to tighten up the filter housing - however when everything went awfully tight and there was no slipping on the tension wrench I began to smell a rat - the tension wrench is knackered and I had over tensioned it - took a bit to get it off but no damage done except a little burring of the top nut moulding when the socket slipped off trying to undo it. I then tightened by hand and then the usual 1/4 further turn with the socket - all seems OK.

It is all good doing this sort of work yourself as you learn a lot more about the car in other areas as you do these things.

Cheers

Garry

[101RRS]

As the only servicing requirement at 60,000km is the oil and filter change and that has been done I am now slowly working through the other items on my list.

Even though the air filter is not due until 72000km I decided to have a look at it today - absolutely chock a block full of fine dust so changed. When I opened the top of the air box I found a razor blade in the bottom of the overflow section so someone has been in there before me - the filter was a land rover item so I do not know whether it has previously been changed.

The 72,000km interval is clearly too much so I would suggest 48,000km or maybe 60,000km for a town car.

Next is the fuel filter.

Now a question - the handbook indicates that when the fuel filter is changed you need to go up to the bleed valve with the lift pump running to purge the system of air.

Do you actually have to do this?? or will the lift pump just push any air straight through the system into the engine??

Ean Austral - you recently changed your filter - did you purge or just let the lift pump run for a while?

Thanks

Garry

[Nomad9]

Hi Garry,
When I changed mine I just turned the ignition on for a minute twice to purge the system through, the car started fine after that. You can here the pitch of the pump change as the fuel goes through the system, when the pitch returns to a steady state your done.
Make sure you get the pipes back on the right connections if you get this wrong the engine won't start, it is then I imagine a very diesely job to get them off and change them. This was good advice I got when doing this job.
Sounds like you are going well.

[101RRS]

Thanks for that - I assume that the lift pump would force the fuel and air through the system and then back to the tank via the fuel return.

Cheers Garry

[Ean Austral]

As the only servicing requirement at 60,000km is the oil and filter change and that has been done I am now slowly working through the other items on my list.

Even though the air filter is not due until 72000km I decided to have a look at it today - absolutely chock a block full of fine dust so changed. When I opened the top of the air box I found a razor blade in the bottom of the overflow section so someone has been in there before me - the filter was a land rover item so I do not know whether it has previously been changed.

The 72,000km interval is clearly too much so I would suggest 48,000km or maybe 60,000km for a town car.

Next is the fuel filter.

Now a question - the handbook indicates that when the fuel filter is changed you need to go up to the bleed valve with the lift pump running to purge the system of air.

Do you actually have to do this?? or will the lift pump just push any air straight through the system into the engine??

Ean Austral - you recently changed your filter - did you purge or just let the lift pump run for a while?

Thanks

Garry

Gday Garry,

Mine is an 08 model, and it doesnt have the fuel filter with the pipes on it, it is just a screw on type, so I just filled the filter with fuel ( about .5 ltr max ), screwed the filter into place and it started and ran fine.

It doesnt matter what car I change fuel filters in I always fill the filter with clean fuel.

When you get around to changing your gearbox oil, put a peg on your nose..it dont smell the best..


Cheers Ean

[101RRS]

Thanks Ean = I have the screw on filter as well. I asked about purging the system as there seems to be a lot of extra actions listed in the manual for service items that do not need doing - eg disconnect battery to change the engine oil.

I might put up a comment on your gearbox thread.

Garry

[dangermousehouse]

I followed some instructions from here.

Home - DISCO3.CO.UK Knowledge Base (http://www.disco3.co.uk/wiki/index.php/Home)

Click on maintenance and nearly everything you need to know is documented.

[Tote]

Garry,
I have sourced the Caltex engine oil and used it with no problems for top ups.
I have never had the sensors wear through on the brakes. You can run the pads down to a couple of mm of meat without them wearing out. I got about 80,000KM out of my first set of disks and pads but I do a lot of highway KM. Sensors are dead simple to replace as mentioned above. If you go here (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11748/Bodsys_Brake_Bible_V1.4sml.pdf) there are detailed instructions on disc and pad replacement.

Regards,
Tote

[101RRS]

so I just filled the filter with fuel ( about .5 ltr max ), screwed the filter into place and it started and ran fine.



Finally got around to doing the fuel filter (only 14,000km over due:().

While is is relatively easy to do the Poms do know how to make something harder to do than it needs to be. Why put the filter over the top of the X member when it could be mounted about 4 inches further forward with no obstructions and probably just as protected from damage where it is now.

Following Ean's tip (thanks) filled the filter first so no issues starting up. On draining out the old filter there was no sediment or mud as such but a couple of specks of grit about the size of sand grains - most likely knocked in when refuelling so it looks that the quality of fuel put in so far has been good.

Cheers

Garry

[shanemonk]

I use full synthetics in the difs and transfer case, personally I use the Royal Purple 75W-90 full synthetic in the transfer case as well. As far as I could find out the TF 0753 was a 75W-90 weight oil, I've been using these oils now for about 15k, everything is a smooth as silk.

Hi, keen to know your thoughts now some time on?

Shane

[Rich84]

I have heard of some people in the UK using standard GL5 80/90 in the transfer, but for my money I'll be using the LR stuff as it isn't standard trans oil from what I've read. Similar to using ATF in the 6HP transmission - some people have run it for thousands of km without problem, my trans started squawking after 50km with it in there! Changed back to the LG6 pretty quickly let me tell you!! Thank god it was fine after that! 50K down the track now.


The transfer case oil can be bought at parts stores like TRS or Rovacraft for about $55 per litre. You need two litres.

[adm333]

A bit late to the party but it may be useful for someone searching this thread.

I have been a big fan of Penrite oils and used them exclusively in my various Range Rovers.
I did some research and found that Penrite HPR Diesel 5 has the exact match to specifications in the original post.

They also have a new range called Enviro+ which has recommendations for Land Rover diesels.

Dave