View Full Version : 98 Defender headlights
scanfor
28th January 2012, 08:50 PM
Evening All
I've spent today fitting an Auberins EGT to the Deafener, and when i went for a test run I noticed that the headlights aren't working.
I have traced power to the headlight switch, and it is doing what it should by switching the side lights on at the first click and power for the main lights at the second click.
From this point, the wiring disappears behind the radio and down to the fusebox.
According to the circus diagram that I have, the Blue wire (for main lights) should go straight to the fusebox and then out on the LEFT/RIGHT Light fuses.
I'm not getting power on any of the headlight fuses (either side).
Sidelights and taillights as well as dash lights are working, and the high beam will flash when the stalk is pulled toward the driver.
There is a chance that I have dislodged a plug/socket somewhere behind the dash, but a quick visual doesn't reveal anything obvious.
Can anyone offer suggestions as to what might be the problem please?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
lochie
28th January 2012, 09:22 PM
Hi Stanfor.I had similar problems -1997 def.-it turned out to be the headlight relay ,this is located in the fuse box.There are four relays side by side and the decal on the fuse box cover will indicate which one.From memory the relays are inter changeable- so a quick swap may solve the problem.Hope this is of some help.Cheers Lochie
JDNSW
28th January 2012, 09:26 PM
I was under the impression that even at this date the Defender did not have headlight relays. In this case the problem is likely to be either the headlight switch itself or the multifunction switch (does High beam flasher work?), and fitting headlight relays is a "good idea". The switches may be repairable or may need replacing.
John
scanfor
28th January 2012, 09:39 PM
Lochie
Thanks mate, I already tried that but it didn't help.
The relay is actually clicking when main beam is selected on the switch, and when the starter key is turned to "ignition".
JDNSW - it seems to not be the switches as the flash highbeam is working and the headlight switch is operating as it should.
justinc
28th January 2012, 09:48 PM
More than likely It will be the headlamp switch as JDNSW has stated, they do not have relays on the high OR low beam, (Unless someone has fitted them) and the highbeam flash will work whether the headlamp switch is operational or not. The relay you are hearing is the main lamp control relay, this will come on when ignition is on and parklamps (and then headlamps) are selected.
To test the blown switch theory, trace the Blue with White trace wire from the multiplug that feeds the dipswitch and apply 12V to it, the headlamps will illuminate (With the ignition on) on low beam, and the Blue wire with red trace is the high beam.
JC
scanfor
28th January 2012, 10:39 PM
OK, that worked except blue/red was low and blue/white was high - but the main thing is that your theory is right.
So just to be clear it is the headlight switch that has failed, and not the dipper combination switch?
Thanks to all who have replied, I am amazed at the generosity of spirit of people on these forums, it is indeed a wonderful resource.
Regards
Scott
justinc
29th January 2012, 08:07 AM
Yes, this test shows that the headlamp main switch has failed, you would be best advised to fit one of these; Headlight Kits (http://www.traxide.com.au/HL_kits.html)
The difference in brightness and reliability of your headlamp circuit will be unbelievable:)
JC
Reads90
29th January 2012, 08:55 AM
Also land rover changed the headlight switch connector from the 95 defender to the 98 defender. The switch is the same but connector different and the 98 one is twice the price of the 95 one. In my 98 defender I have one from a 95 one.
From the top of my head one is $150 and the other is $70
Found this out by nicking the unit out of my 95, 90 one weekend when the 98 110 lights failed and need to use it at night. When on Monday I went to order a new one I nearly fell over and so I order a replacement 95 one and cut of the old connector on the old 98 and fitted it to the new headlight switch and fitted to my 98 110. Been on there for a year or so now
justinc
29th January 2012, 10:44 AM
Also land rover changed the headlight switch connector from the 95 defender to the 98 defender. The switch is the same but connector different and the 98 one is twice the price of the 95 one. In my 98 defender I have one from a 95 one.
From the top of my head one is $150 and the other is $70
Found this out by nicking the unit out of my 95, 90 one weekend when the 98 110 lights failed and need to use it at night. When on Monday I went to order a new one I nearly fell over and so I order a replacement 95 one and cut of the old connector on the old 98 and fitted it to the new headlight switch and fitted to my 98 110. Been on there for a year or so now
Certainly a good idea, they are after all identical switches, I have done a few like this:)
JC
Wayne'O75
29th January 2012, 03:41 PM
Was helping my brother out with his, had the same problem, confusing to say the least. We had swapped the headlight switch, the pink coloured relay behind the dash, turned out to be the highbeam / dip switch.
scanfor
30th January 2012, 09:42 AM
What is that relay behind the instrument cluster?
Mine is yellow, not pink, but probably still does the same thing.
Wayne'O75
31st January 2012, 09:17 AM
I can't remember what the relay does, his is a 2002 model. There was a thread recently about it all.
scanfor
3rd February 2012, 06:04 PM
OK, found the fault.
It was in the combination indicator/high-beam switch.
The contact where power comes into the switch (Blue wire) has a brass post which is pressed into a contact strip at its base. The strip then has contact "blobs" at either end for switching over between low and high beam.
The joint between the post and the contact strip was loose, and with slight jiggling, the headlights would flicker into life, and extinguish when the jiggling stopped.
Solution was to put a nice blob of solder at the base of the post and spreading out onto the back of the contact strip.
Fingers crossed that it doesn't crack the solder - if it does, then it'll be time for a new combination switch (and another $180).
Thanks to all who helped with the diagnosis.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.