EAS Valve Block Rebuild

[PeterAllen]

Having mucked around with this EAS for a number of weeks I am convinced that the problem with these valve blocks is the seals in the bottom of the 4 air bag line solenoid shafts rather than the o rings so much. I had heard of someone drilling them out and replacing with a 4mm thick rubber plug. Has anyone done this? as I note that the current plugs are well indented and I fear if any leaks in the block are happening it is from this area.
PS. the base of the lower shaft with the spring on it.

[PaulP38a]

I have had success with the rubber feet on mine by sanding them back with some fine emery paper to flatten out the indents.

[Hoges]

yep, 2000 grade wet 'n' dry which has been soaked in soapy water for an hour and left wet. Persistent gentle abrasion cleans them up quite well!

[PeterAllen]

Thanks Paul I will give that a go.
Would be worth adding that procedure plus checking the position of the top rubber top on the same piece, to the O ring rebuild steps and doing a short test with each solenoid with a 12v feed to check operation before putting it back in the car ( I know prolonged direct feeds may burn out solenoids so testing this way is for short burst only to check initial operation).

[Hoges]

Hmmm ... I seem to recall that the solenoids are only 5 volt...need to check this out before pressing the button!:eek::wasntme:

[PeterAllen]

Happy to be corrected in the voltage as I am only retelling what I was advised by a far more knowledgeable person than I in these matters. No surprise if they burn out then but he definetly told me to use a 12v feed.

[PeterAllen]

Hoges the sensors are at 5Volts but the solenoids are 12v as detailed in this service bulletin P38 EAS Service Bulletins (http://www.scribd.com/doc/54144241/P38-EAS-Service-Bulletins)

Refer to this link

[superquag]

I have had success with the rubber feet on mine by sanding them back with some fine emery paper to flatten out the indents.

Are these the 'indented' ones you mean ? - They rest on top of the internal volcano-shape and seal... hopefully...

That O ring in the pic can easily be a problem, if its not 101% correctly seated on re-assembley.

Don't ask how I know...

James in Gosnells

[PeterAllen]

Yep that's the one

[adm333]

A similar thing happened to me, but I think the small black piece had fallen out and I had put it back the wrong way.

See here

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/126614-valve-block-rebuild-aware.html

[PeterAllen]

Yes that is the same one that I eventually glued back in and found that even a slight movement out of its flush position caused the solenoid to fail. I just used a small dab of gasket sealer but others have used superglue to same effect.
The ones on the other end are the ones I need to clean up on mine and then if it still leaks then I am more incline to replace the air bags,etc

[adm333]

I have a number of spare solonoids on a valve block I don't really need any more.

PM your address to me and I will send you a couple, could save you mucking around with your faulty ones.

Dave

[PeterAllen]

Hi Dave,
Thanks for your offer and please only send if there is no chance you may need them in the future. I will PM my details.
I have dismantled the valve block again last night and sanded down the plugs at the bottom of the lower solenoid shafts on all air bag supply solenoids. This morning it took over 15min to get to standard profile and only happened as I pulled into driveway at work. This may be a bag leak or poor compressor. I haven't checked it any further as yet. Had a EAS fault last night as well which came up as "pressure constantly high". I understand that this is related to the pressure switch or driver unit or maybe a hundred other possibilities.
Thank god for that EAS Unlock software, I also currently have the pc ready and waiting for resetting in the vehicle. Should install it in the glovebox permanently.

[adm333]

I will ship 2 tomorrow.

I doubt I will need them as i don't have a P38 anymore.

Dave

[PeterAllen]

Thanks Dave,
Sorry to hear that you sold your p38 no doubt you are looking for a updated rangie of some description.
I'll keep you posted on my EAS saga

[adm333]

I posted it today, 3 spare solonoids.

I also found a spare piston arm for the compressor with a virtually new Teflon seal on it, which may or may not be handy if are looking to the compressor next.

I threw it in just in case.

Good luck

[PeterAllen]

Thanks heaps Dave please pm me you address

[adm333]

Happy to help, its what we do around here !

[PeterAllen]

Hey Dave,
received your package yesterday thanks a lot. Since sanding down those bottom rubber seals on all the air bag solenoids the only fault that I now get is related to the pressure always high. I have read that that is typical of the driver unit being faulty so we will see when I have a go at that.
Today I rebuilt the compressor to see if that will assist things and what a bloody job that was. The little Allen key crub screw on the piston of course was rounded off from a previous owner/mechanic having a go at it so ended up drilling it out and replacing with the piston you sent.
I hope to get the driver unit this week with any luck and will update when I put that in. The piston seal on the existing was pretty buggered so glad you sent the one you had.
Dave do you drink red or white or are you a beer buff?

[adm333]

I like all three :p, but honestly, I'm just happy to help, I know what it's like.

Others here have done similar things for me over the years.

As for the high pressure, it could the "pressure switch", more than the drive block. That's the brass looking cylinder attached to the valve block.

Dave

[PeterAllen]

Thanks Dave but I don't think it is the switch given that the fault will occur even when the car is in pump up mode
Anyway we will soon get to the bottom of it as soon as the good drive unit arrives
The reason I am convinced of the drive unit is because the car does strang things. On some occasions when u lock the car you can hear the air being let out of the exhaust on the valve block. other times it stays up and nothing happens so I am hoping the driver unit is the answer

[PaulP38a]

A minor clarification - the brass fitting is the pressure relief valve, and the green unit is the pressure sender unit. Either of these can contribute to the pressure constatly high fault message.
Cheers, Paul.

[PeterAllen]

Is there any way of testing these units other than buy and try.
I have seen the storey Wilson test for the pressure sensor switch which is fine if you can actually get the system up to over 140psi but nothing on the relief valve. Any ideas ?

[PaulP38a]

The compressor should be able to get over 140psi after running for a few minutes. Manually operating the compressor through EAS Unlock or jumper wires should do it. I have not checked what the relief valve is set at though.

[PeterAllen]

Tested the pressure switch and the circuit was closed at all tests before and after depressurising.
This is suppose to mean that the sensor is telling the computer that the system is at full pressure and to stop the compressor, however, this does not seem to be the case, as on most occasions even in fault mode the compressor is running. Admittedly it wasnt running tonight while testing but normally when I start the car the compressor will be activated,
Can anything in the valve block rebuild have upset this switch.