D4 3.0L Oil & Filter Change

[LGM]

O.K.

I am about to change out the oil and filter for the first time on my 3.0L D4.
Yep, I do have the correct oil, oil filter O ring and filter!

Is there anything special I need to know? Is there any peculiar foibles that are awaiting me that could bring me undone?:eek:

Oh yes, after much searching I managed to find what I think is the oil filter housing hidden under the engine cover on top of the engine?.

What about the filter change? When I undo that cover does oil go everywhere? I also know that I will need to carefully measure the oil coming out and going in.

Curse you electric measure machine!

I even have a hand Vacuum pump to suck out the venom (bad oil) and a spare sump plug to do it the old way if that does not work.

As you can see I am prepared for most issues that I can think off. But I would rather have the benefit of your experience to assist me which no doubt will will be helpfull and illuminating.

LGM

[Graeme]

Draining via the sump plug ensures that the sump will be empty.

Why not just measure the correct amount for a fill rather putting back what you removed? Following is service bulletin SSM49357 from Topix as reported by a Disco3.co.uk member:

Reference: SSM49357

Models: Discovery 4/Range Rover Sport

Title: 3.0 TDV6 Engine Oil

Category: Engine

Last modified: 10-May-2011 00:00:00

Symptom; 401000 Oil System Concerns

Content

Issue: Clarification on engine oil specification applicable to 3.0 TDV6 derivatives.

Cause: Incorrect engine oil specification being used in some Markets.



Action:

The engine oil used in 3.0 TDV6 must be to specification WSS-M2C934B (ACEA A5/B5/C1). Land Rover recommends Castrol Professional Powerflow C1 5W-30 especially for vehicles fitted with DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) as this engine oil is specially formulated to minimize ash build up.

For non DPF vehicles ONLY, engine oil to specification WSS-MSC913B (ACEA A1/B1) may be used. Land Rover recommends Castrol SLX Professional C1 5W-30. It is permitted to use an alternative to Castrol as long as the specification stated above is met. The grade of oil used must be 5W-30, there can be no deviation from this viscosity. Failure to use a 5W-30 viscosity engine oil meeting the above stated specification will have a significant effect on the bearing shells which may cause irreparable damage to the engine.

NOTE - It is imperative that when the engine oil is drained from the sump during routine service work and replaced, the correct amount of engine oil is added to the engine as follows - 3.0 TDV6 Engine oil service fill with oil filter change 5.9 litres – Maximum. Therefore it is essential the correct amount of engine oil is measured prior to filling.

Failure to follow the above instruction will compromise the engine breather system, potentially resulting in oil pull-over and subsequent engine damage

[LGM]

Thanks Graeme,

Was hoping to have a crack at the suction arrangement doing the job from the top. If I can do it that way it will eventually save a lot of mucking around jacking the vehicle and dropping protection plates etc.

None the less as you have said draining and filling the tried and proven way is most likely the go.

I am sure I have the right oil as provided by our local Castrol supplier 'Edge Professional C1 5W-30'. I understand the name of the oil has changed slightly but all the other specs are exactly as per the book.

Do you know the answer to my question on the filter?

LGM

[Graeme]

The filter housing does not retain oil so the filter just lifts out with only a few drips. At least some, if not all 2.7 filters need to be pulled off its centre spindle with some sort of tool but that's not the case with the 3.0.

[eddomak]

Action:

The engine oil used in 3.0 TDV6 must be to specification WSS-M2C934B (ACEA A5/B5/C1). Land Rover recommends Castrol Professional Powerflow C1 5W-30 especially for vehicles fitted with DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) as this engine oil is specially formulated to minimize ash build up.

For non DPF vehicles ONLY, engine oil to specification WSS-MSC913B (ACEA A1/B1) may be used. Land Rover recommends Castrol SLX Professional C1 5W-30. It is permitted to use an alternative to Castrol as long as the specification stated above is met. The grade of oil used must be 5W-30, there can be no deviation from this viscosity. Failure to use a 5W-30 viscosity engine oil meeting the above stated specification will have a significant effect on the bearing shells which may cause irreparable damage to the engine.

NOTE - It is imperative that when the engine oil is drained from the sump during routine service work and replaced, the correct amount of engine oil is added to the engine as follows - 3.0 TDV6 Engine oil service fill with oil filter change 5.9 litres – Maximum. Therefore it is essential the correct amount of engine oil is measured prior to filling.

Failure to follow the above instruction will compromise the engine breather system, potentially resulting in oil pull-over and subsequent engine damageIn reading the recent thread on changing oil and oil filter, I just noticed the specification of oil of 5W30 that is recommended and the warning in the bulletin about the bearings.

Is 0W40 a better grade, and is 5W20 also acceptable, since the latter one was used in my recent service at a LR dealer$hip?

Thanks,
Edwin

[discotwinturbo]

In reading the recent thread on changing oil and oil filter, I just noticed the specification of oil of 5W30 that is recommended and the warning in the bulletin about the bearings.

Is 0W40 a better grade, and is 5W20 also acceptable, since the latter one was used in my recent service at a LR dealer$hip?

Thanks,
Edwin

If they used 5w20 I would be demanding they drain it and start again. 0w40 is better for cold starts as its a little thinner again, but thicker when it's warm. I would be sticking with 5w30.....with the exact specific to what's required...not all 5w30's are the same.

[LGM]

Theres is no doubt about it I am no oil expert!

Mind you if the dealer or mechanic servicing my D4 put oil in the engine that did not meet the manufacturers recommendation I would want it to see the LR bulletin that gives the O.K. for a spec change. Failing that I would want the oil changed at their cost.

In any case I would also be on to LR Australia questioning the change!

Would that make me the cutomer from hell?

LGM

[Graeme]

is 5W20 also acceptable, since the latter one was used in my recent service at a LR dealer$hip?
Perhaps 5W20 was just a typo. One of my oil change invoices showed the wrong grade but that particular oil isn't available in the stated viscosity.

[eddomak]

I just checked with the dealer$hip and the fill in service manager had selected the wrong option. When I asked if there would be a price difference the regular service manager said that there would indeed be a difference of $100 or so, so he would regenerate the invoice credit me back the amount.

[101RRS]

When I was shopping for oil for my 2.7 TDV6 I was shopping in Repco and Supercheap. I couldn't find the exact spec oil (available oil was actually higher spec) so looked at the application chart. The chart lists different brand oils and what is suitable. For the 2.7 it was all 5w30 but for the 3.0 TDV6 the basic spec was 5w40 for all oil brands.

Garry

[roamer]

When I was shopping for oil for my 2.7 TDV6 I was shopping in Repco and Supercheap. I couldn't find the exact spec oil (available oil was actually higher spec) so looked at the application chart. The chart lists different brand oils and what is suitable. For the 2.7 it was all 5w30 but for the 3.0 TDV6 the basic spec was 5w40 for all oil brands.

Garry



Hm... Something wrong with that chart,, :confused:
3lt is definitely 5w30
If you ring Castrol Techn they are really good and helpfull :BigThumb:

Cheers Ken

[LGM]

Happily changed the oil on my 3.0L engine using the LR fitted suction tube and my ebay puchased vac pump. How easy is that! What's more no getting under the vehicle and no mess. :D

It was another story when it came to getting the filter element to separate from the filter housing. Looking into the centre of the filter element as it sits inside the housing there is a circular cage arrangment and some attachment bits at the bottom of the housing, (top of the housing if its in position in the car). Anyhow after much mucking around with no success I thought it better to put the new 'O' ring on and re-use the old filter (it did not seem to bad) until I understand how the filter element can be dissengaged from the housing.

Basically I was not game to really force anything. I generally have this 'luck' that usually means if it can break and is a part that is not esay to obtain, it will!

Is there someone with a D4 3.0L who knows the trick to getting the element out of the housing or is there a 'special' tool required:confused:

LGM

[Graeme]

Mine just pulled out without any drama. A set of long nose pliers was on hand in case it was stuck.

[LGM]

So the bits in the middle just stay there?

[Graeme]

Yes, just pull the filter out by grabbing inside the top edges.

[Kandy]

Hi all, seems like an old thread for some reason but its title is specific for us newish D4 owners (MY16) who want to jump in and do an engine oil and filter ( I believe filter is more important) change between the 26000k first change as required by LR. I too have the vacuum pump ready to extract the engine oil, now need to find the correct filter, it would seem from previous info that the older D4 had a clip arrangement for the cartridge, newer models just pull off and push on.
Finally managed to purchase the correct oil (Castrol Edge Professional A5 5W-30 at Maxiparts , Rocklea, 20l for $ 306 . Now need the filter cartridge , my old source has gone (FWD Yerongpilly), any place in Brisbane? or do I rely on ebay.
I must say that getting that oil as used by the dealer was odd, I tried at Repco and was told next day only available to dealers, hmmmm.
Cheers:)

[ATH]

I had to try the fuel/oil suppliers main depot for the correct spec. oil as I've no intention of using the same oil for 26K.
Castrol techs. said use only their Castrol Prof C1 5 -30w and no other. $327 for 20ltrs same price even for trade..... :o
Well known in Perth indi. says they and others have got LRA to accept Penrite Enviro C4 5 - 30.
"Oils ain't oils" as the adv. used to say...... pain in the arse and an expensive one as well. :mad:
AlanH.

[Kandy]

Hi Alan, Yep not happy to accept the long drain intervals imposed by the EU and we cop it with high spec oils required as the dealers will only use them (understandably) for warranty purposes.
Of course we cant get them over the counter or your local auto shop so find a Castrol distributor/sub distributor but thats cheaper anyway. By the way C1 is for a DPF, if no DPF then A5, hmmmm.
Cheers Steve

[DiscoJeffster]

I've been using the Penrite C4 in mine. Bought in 20L for around $200. My
Engine still runs 25000km later [emoji3]

[Kandy]

Yep , all these oils will keep our engines running forever compared to the old days when Castrol GXL was considered top range, I will not cross brands at the moment and use what the dealer uses, later maybe (out of warranty) Nulon,(goes in the TD5) etc. and easier to get but thats years away.

[DiscoJeffster]

So I used the genuine transfer case oil at mental per litre, but with alternatives so hard to come by in Aus, I sucked it up. Same for brake fluid. The funky spec was too hard to sort here independently so paid for the genuine article. Gearbox I use a Motul ATF VI and engine Penrite C4. Diffs were Castrol spec aligned to factory, purchased commercially. Filters I use Mann.
I change the engine oil more regularly than specified. Gearbox oil I'm dropping 4L every year to freshen the 200k oil that's in there. If I drop 4L every year it will remain fresh'ish', is easy enough and not a high cost.

[Graeme]

Now need the filter cartridge , my old source has goneYou might want to consider that if your engine fails under warranty then having a genuine oil filter will effectively be mandatory for a claim as the filter will be checked.

[ATH]

I thought all D4 3.0s had DPFs now. Please correct me if I'm wrong there and how do I check anyway?
Is it in the manual?
Cheers.
AlanH.

[LRD414]

I thought all D4 3.0s had DPFs now. Please correct me if I'm wrong there and how do I check anyway?
No, only some early D4s have dpf. This image will help (under vehicle, below passenger seat).
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/73238d1393112763-dpf-dicso-4-3ltr-lion-dpf-id.jpg

More details:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-4/192163-dpf-dicso-4-a-2.html#post2094012

Cheers,
Scott

[letherm]

I thought all D4 3.0s had DPFs now. Please correct me if I'm wrong there and how do I check anyway?
Is it in the manual?
Cheers.
AlanH.

This should help.:)

The SA number is your VIN.

The DPF is item 4 in the picture. I couldn't "copy" the numbers down the side in the original.

119369

Regards,
Martin

Beat me to it Scott.:p

[ATH]

I note in a early post re changing the oil they say "5.9ltrs max. of oil". I've just vacced mine out and there was 6ltrs came out! Firstly I pumped the pump and watched as it poured out nicely and when it stopped waited a few minutes in case oil was still draining down.... then out came approx. 200mil. extra making the total of 6.
When I'd checked the level on the computer before the change there was no sign of overfilling and showed level at about the halfway mark so I've assumed it was correct and put back 6ltrs. Have I done the right thing?
AlanH.

[eddy]

I also found vacuuming the oil out obtained 6litres compared to the 5.9 through the sump plug,both with new filter.Checked after 8000k and it has used 1 graduation on the oil level,500mls top up and it is back to max,OK.
Will change filter and oil at 10000k using Penrite 5-30w M2C913 BCD [non DPF]/ Mann Hummel filter.

[JonW]

For all that pull the sump plug to drain the oil, if you get a bit of ally angle (or any metal) about 75x75, you can sit it opposite the sump plug so that it catches the oil flow from the plug hole rather than the chassis rail and the resultant spreading of used oil everywhere. Just a tip.

[ATH]

Us that have graduated to more modern methods don't have to worry about oil on the floor or up our arms any longer...... but thnx. for the tip anyway.[bigsmile1]
AlanH.

[AGRO]

Us that have graduated to more modern methods don't have to worry about oil on the floor or up our arms any longer...... but thnx. for the tip anyway.[bigsmile1]
AlanH.


Hey Alan,
I presume you don't use a plastic tube like a straw.
What brand sucker do you use and where did you get it.

Thanks

[ATH]

Hi Agro. I got it off Ebay for 52 bucks delivered to home in WA. Came with 3 different thickness tubes and holds 7 ltrs so is big enough for our vehicles easily.
And made the job just so easy. [biggrin] Few pumps on the handle and out it came but I'd waited a few minutes to let the oil drain down same as I would for the stone age way of dropping it....... [wink11] When it stopped waited a little longer then that extra bit came out.
iepoch was the name of the seller/company I got it from. Delivery a bit slower than they said but it still got here within about 9 or 10 days.
AlanH.

[Rextheute]

Possibly late to this party ......however I changed my oil today in RRS 3L . when checking the oil level it would say overfilled .... I managed to pull 7.0 l out !
Have changed oil n filter - using genuine filter and Fuchs oil . The oil is a pain as it comes in 5l packs so need to purchase 2 .
So I purchased a vacuum oil extractor from Bursons , I already had a 32mm socket .
The bits and pieces cost me approx the same as an oil service .

its actually very easy and takes approx 30 mins . 129339129340129341

[Rextheute]

Points of interest .
Capacity is 5.9l -I have put approx 5.5l in will adjust accordingly ( oh for a dipstick )
Oil filter housing is 32mm socket , do up to 25nm - with a torque wrench !
The oil extraction port is right in front of you ! But LR keep it a secret .

i think the later models have the extraction port in the oil filler hole , 2012 on ?

Buy a vacuum oil extractor , they are great !

Hopes this helps in the future .

[Lukeis]

Does a 2011 2.7ltr have an extraction hole? I've been doing it the old fashioned way

[Rextheute]

If it has a dipstick ,the tube is small enough to go inside and down to sump .

no more crawling on the ground , or removing protection plates !

[PerthDisco]

If it has a dipstick ,the tube is small enough to go inside and down to sump .

no more crawling on the ground , or removing protection plates !

I've read this is not an effective method on the 2.7D?

[DiscoJeffster]

Easy to check. Do it. Then open the drain. Collect the oil from the drain. Determine how much remains. If it's a litre, it's not cool. If it's a hundred odd ml then winner.

[cruiseh]

i bought one of these >> 60W 12V Oil Diesel Extractor Suction Pump Transfer Fluid Change Car Boat | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/60W-12V-Oil-Diesel-Extractor-Suction-Pump-Transfer-Fluid-Change-Car-Boat-/161768630681?hash=item25aa296999:g:Z0EAAOSw8gVX2KS L) which for the coin spent, was well worthwhile. Takes a couple minutes to drain the sump, but no mess. i needed to buy a 6" section of 5mm silicone hose to make it work, the supplied plastic hoses werent a good fit for the extrator tube on the engine. love doing nice clean oil changes.. :)

for oil, i use Nulon Full Synthetic 5W-30 Diesel Formula Long Life Engine Oil - Nulon Products Australia (https://www.nulon.com.au/products/Diesel_Engine_Oils/Full_Synthetic_5W-30_Diesel_Formula_Long_Life_Engine_Oil) , though bought from costco it comes in 6LT container for $49 .. this ones good for DPF or no DPF. i looked up the specs and its only a tiny bit different being ACEA C3-12 vs the recommended ACEA A1/B1 * which i cannot find anywhere in commercially available oil.. Might have to buy a few if they are going to be limited...

interestingly, the latest LR website has castrol Edge professional as recommended.. Castrol Edge Professional Recommended by Land Rover(R) Australia (https://www.landrover.com.au/ownership/castrol-oil/index.html) where the only diesel oil i can find that meets the 5w30 spec is listed as ACEA C3 - this from the castrol website for that oil: Castrol EDGE 5W-30 LL is suitable where the following requirements are called for:API CF ,ACEA C3, MB-Approval 229.31/ 229.51, Porsche C30, VW 504 00/ 507 00, Fulfils the requirements of the former VW 503 01 specification, Suitable for use in vehicles fitted with Diesel Particulate Filters

oil specifications can be researched here: ACEA Engine Oil Specifications - oilspecifications.org (http://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php) , and https://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf

so for the landrover recommended spec: ACEA A5/B5 >>

ACEA A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil intended for use at extended Drain Intervals in Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & Diesel Engines designed to be capable of using Low Viscosity Oils with HTHS Viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa*s. These Oils are unsuitable for use in certain Engines - consult vehicle-OEM’s owner’s manual/handbook in case of doubt.

and for non DPF vehicles ACEA A1/B1

ACEA A1/B1Category is removed with the ACEA 2016 Oil Sequences. From ACEA 2012: Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

and finally, the spec now recommended ACEA C3

ACEA C3 Stable, stay-in-grade Engine Oil with Mid SAPS-Level, intended for use as catalyst compatible Oil at extended Drain Intervals in Vehicles with all Types of modern Aftertreatment Systems and High Performance Passenger Car & Light Duty Van Gasoline & DI Diesel Engines that are designed to be capable of using Oils with a minimum HTHS Viscosity of 3.5 mPa*s.

Seems that they now have decided that minimum HTHS viscosity of 3.5mPa*s is acceptable, vs the older specs 2.6 - 3.5

[Eric SDV6SE]

Hi, so from what I’ve read, we can now use an ACEA C3 rated 5W-30 oil, and it seems others have confidently used non OEM oils including Penrite and Nulon products.

It also seems that using the vacuum pump method is preferred / better way to change oil.

I’m looking at giving it a go, and was reading about various engine oil treatments you put in just before an oil change, apparently for removing build ups etc. Has anyone used these sorts of products before?

Im changing oil every 6 months, but not happy paying dealer prices anymore. I figure i can do a standard oil service for about 120 bucks (filters etc from Rimmer Bros, the oil from local suppliers)

Any thoughts?

Eric

[DiscoJeffster]

Please just buy oil that meets the relevant Ford specification from the OP. It’s not difficult. Penrite do the Fully Synthetic that meets the 913 spec for non-dpf or enviro c4 which meets 934 spec for dpf or non-dpf models. Alternatively the Castrol Magnatec Professional is listed to meet the Ford specifications, if you can find it. I just wouldn’t deviate given the number of bearing failures.

[rick130]

I’m looking at giving it a go, and was reading about various engine oil treatments you put in just before an oil change, apparently for removing build ups etc. Has anyone used these sorts of products before?

Any thoughts?

Eric

Not needed if you are doing regular oil changes with the right oil.

Most flushes are just diesel based, and you can never get it all out unless you do a flush and rinse with new engine oil.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Please just buy oil that meets the relevant Ford specification from the OP. It’s not difficult. Penrite do the Fully Synthetic that meets the 913 spec for non-dpf or enviro c4 which meets 934 spec for dpf or non-dpf models. Alternatively the Castrol Magnatec Professional is listed to meet the Ford specifications, if you can find it. I just wouldn’t deviate given the number of bearing failures.

Thanks, I don’t intend to deviate from the specified oil. Checked the VIN and under the car, definitely no DPF (yay!), so the 913 spec oil (ACEA C3) should be ok.

I want to check what LR used last oil service and now looking for an oil vacuum pump, waiting for the filters to arrive...

cheers

[cruiseh]

Please just buy oil that meets the relevant Ford specification from the OP. It’s not difficult.

which the Nulon does..

[Eric SDV6SE]

Points of interest .
Capacity is 5.9l -I have put approx 5.5l in will adjust accordingly ( oh for a dipstick )
Oil filter housing is 32mm socket , do up to 25nm - with a torque wrench !
The oil extraction port is right in front of you ! But LR keep it a secret .

i think the later models have the extraction port in the oil filler hole , 2012 on ?

Buy a vacuum oil extractor , they are great !

Hopes this helps in the future .

Yep. I agree.

Just had the vacuum pump bought off e-Bay delivered yesterday. A$50.

Oil Filter (ex UK): A$2.20 each (LR013148P1 OEM)
Fuel Filters (ex UK): A$16.50 each (LR009705P Aftermarket Britpart)
Air Filter (Ex Sydney Au) A$6.50 each (aftermarket Wesfil equivalent)
Pollen Filter (ex UK): A$2.20 each (JKR500010P1 OEM)

Still to get oil - Penrite Enviro+ C4 5W-30 Full Syn ~A$105-110 and a bottle of Penrite Engine flush

So I figure i can do an oil service for about $150...excluding my time and the vacuum pump cost...

[scarry]

Forget the oil flush,you won't need it.

[Eric SDV6SE]

Picked up 10L of Penrite C4 Enviro 5W-30 from Super Cheap Auto yesterday for A$103.99. Using some SuperCheap store credits, got it for $75 - not too bad me thinks.

Will do the oil service when I get back from being away....