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Geezer
1st February 2012, 11:33 AM
Hi All,

Not sure if i am asking in the right area, but have to start somewhere and here seemed like the obvious choice. If anyone can help or point me in the right direction I would be most grateful.

I have just purchsed an SIII SWB with an early RR V8 squeezed into it.
Problem is, the drivers side standard SIII chassis mount has a piece of angle iron welded to it and then connected to the un-modified V8 engine mount bracket, the other side has a butchered engine mount bracket with a piece of flat bar welded to it that connects to the standard SIII chassis mount if that all makes sense.

My question is there a standard LR engine mount that will fit the V8 (circa 1970-84) and connect straight to the SIII. If not, can you buy the modified inter-connecting brackets as I'm sure there would be a market. Or does anyone have the dimmensions or drawings to make them up that I can get engineer approved/complianced.
Reason for this is the existing ones are rubbish and probably wouldn't pass any compliance. Also the engine is quite a long way back and the previous owner has removed a considerable chunk of firewall to get everything in. :mad: Even thought the engine has enough room to move forward at least 50mm.

I have a SIII restored chassis sat next to the V8 uncompleted project just described. My intention is to build a better SIII SWB V8 with the good chassis and as yet unmodified spare firewall. This would be a good time to get it right, before I put it back together.

Not sure which gearbox I have, as I haven't seen any identification anywhere, but does have a Lake Adaptor plate which I can clearly see in the big gaping hole in firewall for which it protrudes, and a Fairey Overdrive.

Somebody suggested Stage 1 mounts, will this work and are they easy to get hold off?

So many questions, so thanks in advance

Cheers G

Slunnie
1st February 2012, 09:55 PM
I just fabricated my own mounts and replaced the factory ones. All of the parts were standard then. Here is what the Stage1 V8 mounts look like.

www.slunnie.com - IIa V8 conversion (http://www.slunnie.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=50)

Geezer
2nd February 2012, 12:52 AM
Thanks Slunnie,

Photos speak a thousand words, looks like you made the gearbox mounts as well, how far forward did you move everything?
Do you use the origonal V8 engine brakets? I like the slot idea, removes areas or error. So many questions.....

Cheers
G

Lotz-A-Landies
2nd February 2012, 08:35 AM
Hi G

The stage 1 moved everything forward including the radiator and cross member. Personally I like the regular SIII front.

Your idea to move your conversion 50mm forward sounds like a good one, some people used to remove the original fan and use electric thermatic pusher fans in front of the radiator to get more space, but this has a risk if the fans don't push enough air through the radiator you end up with overheating issues..

In the days before Holden conversion kits came with the engine mounts we had to make our own. The Holden 6 in a 6cyl Land Rover chassis, where the engine bracket cantilevered forward to the original Rover chassis mount was a good example for your problem. The process was usually to start off with the engine held in pocition with a floor jack, then a square of 6mm steel plate bolted to the rubber Rover engine mount in the original location and a similar plate bolted to the engine. Then using cardboard 3 pieces were cut and tried to join the two mounting plates together with the idea that the bolts would be accessible and the three plates welded together would form a strong bracket. After the general design is accepted you then cut the main support plate out of steel and tack weld it in place. In turn the ramaining cardboard templates are tested, plate cut and tacked in place and then the final template tested etc. Once all three plates are tacked together on both sides, the new brackets are removed and finish welded off the vehicle.

When I did my Holden V8 into a 6cyl chassis, I went the other route and manufactured new chassis brackets using 50mm by 4mm wall square section a knotch over the chassis rail and seam weld along the outside edge, mid bracket the underside had a "V" cut out and the engine end bent down to form the correct angle for the original Holden engine bracket and rubber mount which sat on the square section like a saddle. The square sections then had webs cut and welded to the sides of the section and to the inside of the chassis rails.

Hope this helps.
Diana.

BTW I am going to move this thread to the "other powered" section.

Slunnie
2nd February 2012, 05:22 PM
Thanks Slunnie,

Photos speak a thousand words, looks like you made the gearbox mounts as well, how far forward did you move everything?
Do you use the origonal V8 engine brakets? I like the slot idea, removes areas or error. So many questions.....

Cheers
G

It was moved forward into the same location as a Stage1 V8 - I'm not sure how that compares. I replaced/moved the front Xmember to do it. Apart from the chassis engine mounts everything else was standard. Gearbox mounts (LT95 gearbox) were from a Stage1 V8 gearbox (that was what the donor was) and just bolted into the chassis after drilling some holes. The vehicle now has an injected 3.9 from a Disco mated to a ZF/LT230 from a Rangie and it all just went straight into the same engine mounts and gearbox holes.

Edit, to clarify, this combo is too long for a SWB and doesn't work - I've been there and done that. This setup is now in a LWB that works very well.

Slunnie
2nd February 2012, 05:28 PM
This is the problem in a SWB with the V8 and LT95, ZF + LT230 etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1491.jpg

landrover dave
2nd February 2012, 06:37 PM
Hi Geezer, it sound like you have a series gearbox. If it has synchromesh on all forward gears it is a S3 box. The motor is set that far back to keep the g/box in the std position. Star moving the whole lot forward and the main gear lever will be in the firewall! Also front drive shaft will be way too short. You can move the motor forward and fit an LT95 out of a similar model Rangy that the motor came out of, like Land Rover did with the Stage 1

Hi All,

Not sure if i am asking in the right area, but have to start somewhere and here seemed like the obvious choice. If anyone can help or point me in the right direction I would be most grateful.

I have just purchsed an SIII SWB with an early RR V8 squeezed into it.
Problem is, the drivers side standard SIII chassis mount has a piece of angle iron welded to it and then connected to the un-modified V8 engine mount bracket, the other side has a butchered engine mount bracket with a piece of flat bar welded to it that connects to the standard SIII chassis mount if that all makes sense.

My question is there a standard LR engine mount that will fit the V8 (circa 1970-84) and connect straight to the SIII. If not, can you buy the modified inter-connecting brackets as I'm sure there would be a market. Or does anyone have the dimmensions or drawings to make them up that I can get engineer approved/complianced.
Reason for this is the existing ones are rubbish and probably wouldn't pass any compliance. Also the engine is quite a long way back and the previous owner has removed a considerable chunk of firewall to get everything in. :mad: Even thought the engine has enough room to move forward at least 50mm.

I have a SIII restored chassis sat next to the V8 uncompleted project just described. My intention is to build a better SIII SWB V8 with the good chassis and as yet unmodified spare firewall. This would be a good time to get it right, before I put it back together.

Not sure which gearbox I have, as I haven't seen any identification anywhere, but does have a Lake Adaptor plate which I can clearly see in the big gaping hole in firewall for which it protrudes, and a Fairey Overdrive.

Thanks in advance :)

Cheers G

NiteMare
3rd March 2012, 10:09 AM
hey Slunnie, you thought of modifying the back of the radiator panel and moving the rad' forwards rather than moving the engine backwards ?? shallow full width rad'

remove the engine driven fan and fitting twin slimline pusher fans in front of the rad' ??

possibly easier with lights in wings models

i've just pulled a 3.5 Rangerover V8 out of a '59 88" but that was bolted via an adaptor to the original box, custom engine mounts bolted to the block sitting on standard chassis mounts, 1.5-2" chopped out of the passenger footwell to accomodate the lefthand bank and exhaust manifold

Slunnie
3rd March 2012, 07:46 PM
hey Slunnie, you thought of modifying the back of the radiator panel and moving the rad' forwards rather than moving the engine backwards ?? shallow full width rad'

remove the engine driven fan and fitting twin slimline pusher fans in front of the rad' ??

possibly easier with lights in wings models

i've just pulled a 3.5 Rangerover V8 out of a '59 88" but that was bolted via an adaptor to the original box, custom engine mounts bolted to the block sitting on standard chassis mounts, 1.5-2" chopped out of the passenger footwell to accomodate the lefthand bank and exhaust manifold

This was similar except the mods to the firewall were to fit the RHS bank and manifold, the motor was as far back as it would go. I don't think that electric fans have enough grunt to push enough air for reliable cooling, but I do like your thinking to make it all fit behind the original facia. Running what ever front end didn't worry me too much, making the V8 and LT95 fit a SWB did as there was no room for the rear prop.

NiteMare
3rd March 2012, 09:41 PM
this is my '65 109 radiator panel, the radiator is a 200tdi (cut down original surround) and in front of it is a TD5 intercooler

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/1262.jpg

ok i know the 200tdi is a cool running engine and in England we don't generally have the sustained high atmospheric temperatures that you have but due to the intercooler being where it is i do plan on fitting a small (10-11") slimline fan to the engine side which should be sufficient for my needs, the idea being to manually switch (over ride switch) it on before making the engine work hard climbing hills/towing weight in hotter weather

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/1263.jpg

that was all mockup before cleaning/painting etc' whilst i worked out where stuff had to go

oh and it's a 109 so space wasn't really an issue except for turbo clearance which is why i used a 300turbo, the 200 turbo will fit if the chassis is scalloped or the engine/gearbox is tilted but i wanted minimal cutting and the engine sitting nice and square

chazza
7th March 2012, 08:53 PM
Nice pics Nitemare!

Just had a thought, which may be a stupid one - if you did away with the original bonnet catch, could the inner front panel be cut right back so that the intercooler and radiator could be further forward?

If so, the viscous hub might be able to be retained and the bonnet catch replaced with external ones like the Oz Army used,

Cheers Charlie

NiteMare
7th March 2012, 11:12 PM
possibly could be done but not sure, that rad' panel has the lights in it so i'd be limited with clearance on the back of them, a lights in wings would give more space than this one for moving the rad' forwards, to be honest i don't see the point in retaining the viscous fan as you'll have to adapt the fan shield/ducting to have it properly efficient and drawing the air through the rad', whereas two high power electric fans mounted tight to the rad' will do the same job with the bonus of being able to switch them off when wading and hopefully keep your ignition system dry

with mine as it stands i'll have to dismount the panel and get the rad' out of the way to change the drivers side sealed beam unit (i made an error :eek: ) so i intend to fit halogen bulb units in the hope it'll reduce that difficulty

chazza
8th March 2012, 08:08 AM
Ah yes - forgot about the lights!

Mine is a S3 so that won't be a problem. I mentioned it because I will expect mine to do heavy towing etc. in fiendish temperatures, so a viscous is highly desirable but for your application the thermatic fans will be fine,

Cheers Charlie