EAS Recalibration - LR procedure?

[DT-P38]

Hi All,

I am having a crack at resetting heights today and although the Story Wilson software and instructional videos are good, I am keen to have a look at the LR procedure (including any special tools required). I am pretty certain they use "special" spacer blocks between suspension and chasis for each of the settings and that they probably have a set of standard values to aim at/start with.

I have looked in rave and searched here but nothing is popping up. Anyone have this procedure electronically? Or even hard copy... happy to pay for a copy and mail costs.

Additionally, anyone with comments on maximum/minimum height values they usually use (and why) please chip in.

Cheers, Dave.

[p38arover]

Jeez, Dave. I thought all P38A owners had seen the drawings I made of my genuine P38A height calibration blocks. :p
Posted on rr.net and here.

See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/73192-eas-standard-ride-height.html

[DT-P38]

Thanks Ron,

Knew I had seen something like that before!

So, where's the procedure and settings? Or, is it all Test Book driven and Top Secret?

Dave


Jeez, Dave. I thought all P38A owners had seen the drawings I made of my genuine P38A height calibration blocks. :p
Posted on rr.net and here.

See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/73192-eas-standard-ride-height.html

[Keithy P38]

Probably not what your looking for, thought I'd chime in though! I used my faultmate to gain 1" of ride height in standard and about 2" in high setting. Took a few hours with a measuring tape and notepad open on the laptop! They were measured from wheel centre to guard lip!

Cheers
Keithy

[Hoges]

With all respect to Ron, the calibration blocks are specifically designed for use with a LR Test Book.

If you want to calibrate the vehicle properly with out a Test Book machine, make up some wooden blocks from 50mm x 50mm hardwood (don't use pine!!). cut two blocks each 100mm long and 2 at 105mm. Remove the rubber bump stop covers. The 105mm blocks slip between the bumpstop and axle pad on the rear axle. Fit the 100mm blocks similarly on the front. Lower the vehicle until it is sitting firmly on the said blocks.

Take a sensor reading for each corner. This is standard height as defined in the LR EAS Systems Engineering doc.

you can then measure the top of mudguard to floor for each corner and use this as a proxy for the bumpstop/axlepad distance. They may not be the same due to body twist, ill fitting panels etc.

Repeat all of the above with different length blocks for each of the specified height settings so that you obtain a complete set of reference settings. you can write these to a spreadsheet or whatever so if it all "goes to hell in a handbasket" as they say, you can reset to original reference settings.

good luck!

[DT-P38]

Thanks Hoges. I thought it was a test book specific routine with the blocks... but I guess the old tape measure will do.

I'm just wanting to know the facts and peoples opinions on the individual limits so I can stay well inside of them but still gain as much lift as possible on the top two settings (thinking of them as standard off road and high off road). I will be leaving highway fairly low for around town on the road tyres to keep the COG and body roll to a minimum. Access will be just touching all 4 bump stops.

I have to do some more reading on RR.net it seems their knowledge base is pretty easy to dig into. Funny though, when I went to join the bloody thing called me a spammer and rejected me! Ah well prefer an Aussie forum with our LR brothers involved anyway!!!

[p38arover]

With all respect to Ron, the calibration blocks are specifically designed for use with a LR Test Book.

Very likely. I've never tried using them even though I have access to Testbook.

[Hoges]

Thanks Hoges. I thought it was a test book specific routine with the blocks... but I guess the old tape measure will do.

I'm just wanting to know the facts and peoples opinions on the individual limits so I can stay well inside of them but still gain as much lift as possible on the top two settings (thinking of them as standard off road and high off road). I will be leaving highway fairly low for around town on the road tyres to keep the COG and body roll to a minimum. Access will be just touching all 4 bump stops.

I have to do some more reading on RR.net it seems their knowledge base is pretty easy to dig into. Funny though, when I went to join the bloody thing called me a spammer and rejected me! Ah well prefer an Aussie forum with our LR brothers involved anyway!!!

Ah!" there's the rub" as The Bard might say:D
The relationship between the height settings is only 'tweakable" within a fairly narrow range
There is a 'black art' algorithm embedded somewhere in the ECU which requires a specified "proportional" relationship between each of the height settings. So, if you set the 'high' setting for example well above the ECU's expected range, and the highway setting lower than (ECU) expected range, the ECU will reject the settings and default to an embededed value set.

there's a mountain of good info on RR.net, a lot of it provided by Aulro members. don't give up. The new management of that forum has let standards slip and it's not as easy to search and refer to as it used to be. There's also a few UK based sites on P38s and a Sth African chap has a blog which is also informative RANGE ROVER WORLD South Africa (http://rangeroverworld.blogspot.com.au/) (but it's hosted with an Aussie web address!)

John Robison on the east coast of the USA is a legend New England's independent source for sales and service of European automobiles. (http://www.robisonservice.com/default.asp) not the least because of the spectacular manner in which he overcame autism to found a very successful business and also write a book about it...inspiring stuff!

[PaulP38a]

Dave - the recommended front heights for your lift are:

Distance from top of centre wheel cap to underside of guard (millimetres)
Access 410
Highway/Low 480
Normal 515
High/Wading 565

Add 10-20mm for the rear.

Did you not read the clear and simple instructions I sent you? :p

Cheers, Paul.

[Hoges]

Dave - the recommended front heights for your lift are:

Distance from top of centre wheel cap to underside of guard (millimetres)
Access 410
Highway/Low 480
Normal 515
High/Wading 565

Add 10-20mm for the rear.

Did you not read the clear and simple instructions I sent you? :p

Cheers, Paul.

I think the issue is that the guard/wheel heights are just a proxy for bump stop/axle pad. All vehicles are different. For example, when I took the recommended flat floor/standard wheel -tyre combination/correct inflation etc etc firgure of 790mm from guard to floor for standard height and then put the correct size blocks in place, the 790mm rose to 810mm/815/810/805 due to panel fit and general alignment issues...but the axle/bump stop figures were correct... so you need to do the bump stop/axle pad measurements and then derive a set of mud guard/wheel heights for each vehicle...

[PaulP38a]

Good point Hoges.
Another method I have used to some success is to get one corner "about right", and use a spirit level resting on the rear window to bring the other side in to alighment. Repeat at the front bumper.

Ideally, you want 4 helpers, each with a tape measure. When you make a minor adjustmenton one corner, everyone reads out their measurements until you get it right.

Funnily enough, I've never found 4 willing volunteers to do this... Seems like there is an opportunity for someone with a technical and electronic bent to fabricate such a device... :cool: (hint - Ron).

Cheers, Paul.

[wayneg]

Good point Hoges.
Another method I have used to some success is to get one corner "about right", and use a spirit level resting on the rear window to bring the other side in to alighment. Repeat at the front bumper.
Paul.

I use the Spirit level method

[Keithy P38]

I used the measuring tape to get them close then had a look from 15m away to judge "level"!

[poleonpom]

I find that when the ice clinks in the G&T that tells me I have a "tilt".

A friend of mine cured his RR suspension issues by switching to Cognac as he tells me that you should never put ice in Cognac.

Asked whether he has a "tilt" he said no, but he was prone to falling over a lot....

[Hoges]

there's sickness in sheep called the "staggers" ...some farmers swear by a good Mudgee "red"...drink a bottle and your sheep are instantly healed!:eek:

[PaulP38a]

Had a bottle or 2 of "Mudgee Red" one evening and the Sommelier part of my brain could tell that the grapes were grown on the side of a hill 'coz I kept falling over :p

What were we talking about again? Oh yeah, EAS calibration. Even though I try to practice what I preach, my P38 still seems to develop a lean to one side on ocassions. Had a cyclist one day tell me my car was lop-sided... cheeky bugger, I'm not that much of a "fat b*stard".

Cheers, Paul.