Matilda's getting an engine rebuild!

[Scallops]

Having sourced all the oil seals for Matilda's transfer case, gearbox and engine, it's time to hoick the engine out and do some work. The haemorrhaging is at a point that demands it. :o

But after having had a few folks drive her, then other S1's - and me doing likewise, it has become apparent that the old girl needs more than just the seals to be replaced.

So Blknight did a compression test for me and I have 100, 110, 100 and 80 psi - so once that engine comes out, she ain't going back until it's properly sorted.

Dave is going to join SLOW and help out with diagnosing just what exactly we will need to do, with the surgery happening in Killer's shed (if still OK :angel:) .....well, the getting it out/finally putting it back part. I'll then be taking the various components to be rebuilt in Ipswich....

Should provide ample opportunity for anyone keen to learn something if they'd like! :)

[JDNSW]

Best guess is rings, plus possibly an exhaust valve on the low compression cylinder.

John

[Scallops]

Best guess is rings, plus possibly an exhaust valve on the low compression cylinder.

John

The plan is to do a "leak test" once the engine is out, using compressed air, to diagnose the extent of the issue.

[Col.Coleman]

Cool some workshop days.:D

Not cool, Matilda has a dicky ticker:(

Make sure you tell us when it is on in the upcoming workshop's section. I can drink beer, point and say "Hey, not that way":p

CC

[Scallops]

It's OK! At least it will be as good as new once done....:)

[incisor]

It's OK! At least it will be as good as new once done....:)

sounds like a plan!

[Killer]

Time to clean up the shed......... and the BBQ.:D

Cheers, Mick.

[pop058]

Did someone say BBQ !!!:D

[Scallops]

Engine coming out Saturday 18 February @ Killer's place...:)

[The ho har's]

hmmm just jotted down the 18th on the calender:D

Now what to bring:angel:

[Scallops]

hmmm just jotted down the 18th on the calender:D

Now what to bring:angel:

I'd better clear this with Rillis before we make it an open slather SLOW day! ;)

[Scallops]

Further info in workshop trip area! :)

[Scallops]

Any ideas where to source new pistons (will be an oversize), crankcase bearings and valves?

I'm hoping I can find everything I need at Dunsfold or similar, but thought someone who has done this may have a good tip.


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[Timj]

Land Rover 2 Litre 1956-1959 Engine Pistons .020 NEW! | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-2-Litre-1956-1959-Engine-Pistons-020-NEW-/350539337245?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item519dc5ce1d#ht_857wt_927)

Land Rover 2 Litre 1956-1959 Engine Pistons .030 NEW! | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-2-Litre-1956-1959-Engine-Pistons-030-NEW-/350539335901?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item519dc5c8dd#ht_829wt_927)

There are a couple that should fit. Don't know enough about them to be sure they would be right for your engine though.

Cheers,

Tim.

[LRO53]

Any ideas where to source new pistons (will be an oversize), crankcase bearings and valves?

I'm hoping I can find everything I need at Dunsfold or similar, but thought someone who has done this may have a good tip.


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I'm just about to finish off my 2L it's not a spreadbore tho.

You first step is to take the

- Block
- Crank

Down to the engine reconditioner of your choice. I use the one 5 min drive from here in Wynnum i know the bloke well and he has done around 4 engines for me over the years.

You will need to take the attached pages and make sure you highlight that it's a 1952-1958. Sadly the 1948-1958 standard workshop manual is a really rubbish manual and really does not give much info. I am not sure if they made a 1954-58 Workshop manual. But these attached pages from a TP/138/C which is a 1953 2L 80" Manual covering upto 1956 models.

I will have to check to see if the data is the same for a Speadbore 2L.

This way they can mic up the bores and tell you what you will require.

I gather it has standard pistons currently?

[Scallops]

Yes, First strip down by the look of the double sided copper gasket. We are trying to get hold of appropriate calipers to measure the inside bores (which are pristine)....I think we have a good handle on what to do next, just that I'll need to source parts.


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[LRO53]

Yes, First strip down by the look of the double sided copper gasket. We are trying to get hold of appropriate calipers to measure the inside bores (which are pristine)....I think we have a good handle on what to do next, just that I'll need to source parts.


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You need to make sure they are not ovaled in anyway.

Did it use any oil? How was the power of the engine? Was it tappty/cammy sounding? the followers on these engines are the real weakspot and can make a right racket.

By the sounds of things your going to need at least.

- 010 Mains
- 010 Bigends ? You would do them as you are going to the trouble of pulling the engine down
- Complete Engine Gasket / Seal Set
- Set 4 Exhaust Valves

What was the oil pressure like? Did the little light ever come on at idle after doing a long run on a hot day?

[Scallops]

You need to make sure they are not ovaled in anyway.

Did it use any oil? How was the power of the engine? Was it tappty/cammy sounding? the followers on these engines are the real weakspot and can make a right racket.

By the sounds of things your going to need at least.

- 010 Mains
- 010 Bigends ? You would do them as you are going to the trouble of pulling the engine down
- Complete Engine Gasket / Seal Set
- Set 4 Exhaust Valves

What was the oil pressure like? Did the little light ever come on at idle after doing a long run on a hot day?

Thanks for your advice, LRO53...I have now managed to link the photos which were purely on my personal Facebook page to the SLOW page.

The engine didn't burn oil as far as I know, and I say that because it never blew any smoke. But it was hard to tell because it literally gushed from the rear main seal, which is what we were trying to sort, only to find the engine completely in need of a rebuild. The engine was very tappety sounding although that may have in fact been an exhaust noise at the manifold as it isn't exactly a straight edge! Killer is kindly machining that for me at some stage. The power was kind of an unknown for me...I hadn't driven any others to know, but I gathered from those that have that she was definitely underpower. My compression measured 110, 100,100 and 80 psi and they should all be 130. I don't know what 010 Mains or Big Ends are...I'm being guided by kind souls, so feel sure that eventually Matilda will be able to drive the 3km back home. :)

[Killer]

Thanks for your advice, LRO53...I have now managed to link the photos which were purely on my personal Facebook page to the SLOW page.

The engine didn't burn oil as far as I know, and I say that because it never blew any smoke. But it was hard to tell because it literally gushed from the rear main seal, which is what we were trying to sort, only to find the engine completely in need of a rebuild. The engine was very tappety sounding although that may have in fact been an exhaust noise at the manifold as it isn't exactly a straight edge! Killer is kindly machining that for me at some stage. The power was kind of an unknown for me...I hadn't driven any others to know, but I gathered from those that have that she was definitely underpower. My compression measured 110, 100,100 and 80 psi and they should all be 130. I don't know what 010 Mains or Big Ends are...I'm being guided by kind souls, so feel sure that eventually Matilda will be able to drive the 3km back home. :)

Or anywhere else that you want to go.:)

Cheers, Mick.

[wrinklearthur]

Hi All

When boring out the cylinders, make sure all the chrome in the upper part of the cylinders is taken out.

I don't know when Rover started doing this to their engines, but I am reasonably sure, the spread bore motors didn't have the chrome in the cylinders.

That lip half way down in those cylinders was murder on the rings.
.

[Blknight.aus]

I've got a complete set of bore guages and micrometers you can make use of as needed.

Have you tried soaking the dizzy then thermal cycling it?

[Scallops]

Well I've had some major developments with my engine rebuild, both good and bad....the good is that my engine is now in the hands of an old friend (Craig Taylor), who I never knew rebuilt engines, but he does, so Matilda's donk is in his capable hands.

But with this came some bad news today- her head is cracked through to the exhaust ports. As such, it is beyond repair. :(

So now, I'm stuck with knowing what to do. I'm inclined to put this project on ice until I can find a new head, because putting any other Series engine in instead, it would seem to me, comes with the risk that it too may be not so good either.

So if anyone knows of a head (2 litre spread bore) that I might source, please let me know. In the meantime, I think I'll need to bring Matilda back home as she is currently taking up real estate in Mick's shed and that doesn't seem right either.

[Blknight.aus]

you can weld up cast iron heads if you know someone who has the right welding gear, preheat and postheat kiln/oven and is a dab hand with cast or hardfacing rods.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Thats a buggar Scallops:(

[Scallops]

Thats a buggar Scallops:(

Yeah....on top of rejected insurance claims for other things, a vehicle broken into, and more...I'm not having a very happy time of late.

[Col.Coleman]

It wasn't a happy chappy I spoke to on the phone. Sounded like the last call before jumping off the Gateway:(

Take heart mate.

We WILL find something, and Matilda will rise again:D

CC

[123rover50]

I have a bunch of heads here. Just have to look at them.
Is there a difference between heads? I heard once that they are interchangable. Anyone know?
Keith.

[wrinklearthur]

Hey Scallops

Not trying to cast aspersions on your mates abilities, but get a second opinion on that motor.

By the way, the exhaust valves are in the block on the 2 litre spread bore and earlier motors and the inlet valves are in the head hence the term 'F head' motor.

I wonder?
Products - Belzona (http://www.belzona.com/prod1k.aspx)

Also a welding repair is still an option when you are faced with a total loss situation.
.

[incisor]

chin up big fella

it's the rover waltz

one step forward, two steps back ..... ;)

[123rover50]

I have a bunch of heads here. Just have to look at them.
Is there a difference between heads? I heard once that they are interchangable. Anyone know?
Keith.

OK just looked up the parts books.
48 to 51 head part no 233430
86,88,107,109 petrol engine head part no 233430.
So the same head fits all engines 1.6 and 2 litre siamese and 2 litre spreadbore.
I think the ones I have are from a 1600 but if one is OK you are welcome to it.
Keith

[pop058]

Nan and I can swing through Kieth's place and pick one up on the way down to Brissy next time if that helps. Only drawback is this is not until next month :(

[incisor]

i may be going that way this weekend...

can swing by if i do...

[slug_burner]

Well I've had some major developments with my engine rebuild, both good and bad....the good is that my engine is now in the hands of an old friend (Craig Taylor), who I never knew rebuilt engines, but he does, so Matilda's donk is in his capable hands.

But with this came some bad news today- her head is cracked through to the exhaust ports. As such, it is beyond repair. :(

So now, I'm stuck with knowing what to do. I'm inclined to put this project on ice until I can find a new head, because putting any other Series engine in instead, it would seem to me, comes with the risk that it too may be not so good either.

So if anyone knows of a head (2 litre spread bore) that I might source, please let me know. In the meantime, I think I'll need to bring Matilda back home as she is currently taking up real estate in Mick's shed and that doesn't seem right either.

In the restoration game nothing is beyond repair, it comes down to how much time effort or money you want to put into it. As said before as to location of valves, the head only has one and it is the intake one.

A competent machinist could tap some overlapping dowels into the crack, welding is also an option. If you do a hunt around you will find other trick ways of fixing cracks in cast iron.

[JDNSW]

Problem I see with the diagnosis is that the exhaust valves are in the block, as noted. And cracks here would not be all that unusual. Since the exhaust valves fro memory have separate seats, it seems to me that a welding repair is possible, although it would be a specialist job.

If it is the head, then it should be possible to find a new or second hand one. since as pointed out they are all the same.

John

[Scallops]

Oh wow..... Thank you so much Keith....and to everyone else who has offered comment, help and suggestion here....I might have the detail of the crack wrong, as I have had a deal of distraction lately, but the fellow doing the work is very experienced and has rebuilt Rover engines for years, even for the old Ipswich Rover dealership....I'm sure he is justified in telling me the old head is shot....but I'll run these comments past him anyway....appreciate everyone's knowledge and input. :)

But Keith - that is just such a generous offer :o....if you have a head that will work for my engine that is simply terrific news....I'm rather humbled, all over again, by this kindness and by that of all here....it's moved me to tears :BigCry:......I'd be very appreciative to work out with you and Dave/Paul how to get hold of what you can offer me....I'll get back to you....thank you again.


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[Killer]

OK just looked up the parts books.
48 to 51 head part no 233430
86,88,107,109 petrol engine head part no 233430.
So the same head fits all engines 1.6 and 2 litre siamese and 2 litre spreadbore.
I think the ones I have are from a 1600 but if one is OK you are welcome to it.
Keith

Keith, you are a credit to the club. Thanks for being so willing to help Dan.:clap2::clap2::TakeABow::TakeABow: We are not worthy.

Cheers, Mick.

[123rover50]

No Problem. Happy to help out.
I am no head expert, how hard are these cracks to see?
Are they visible with the naked eye or do they need testing etc.?
Keith

[Scallops]

No Problem. Happy to help out.
I am no head expert, how hard are these cracks to see?
Are they visible with the naked eye or do they need testing etc.?
Keith

Well - no one noticed the crack until it had been "bathed" by the engine re - builder, so I suspect they might be hard to see.....perhaps, if we initially took a few different heads, Craig could check them out and hopefully find a suitable one.....I could then at least tell you that the others are also fine (or not), and return them to you. :) :angel:

[123rover50]

Sounds like a plan.
I can get them to Wondai if Dave would rather pick them up there.
One of our rifle club members is going to the Wondai Prize meet and could take them.
Keith

[123rover50]

Well Scallops has a choice of four heads.
Cleaned them up a bit and cant see any visible cracks though that does not mean much.
As you know the exhaust valves in the block have hard seat inserts but the inlets are just cut into the cast head material. these will have to be recut, head skimmed and some of the threads tidied up with a tap.
Good Luck.
Keith

[incisor]

okay, have a few hiccups

i have to cancel the trip up this weekend, sorry

i will be now be going up the following weekend, come hell or high water.

my humble apologies for any inconvenience but a couple of things i can't avoid have cropped up.

[Blknight.aus]

I think I've still got a set of dye penetrant testers here... Might even be able to have NDI have a look at one for you.

[Scallops]

okay, have a few hiccups

i have to cancel the trip up this weekend, sorry

i will be now be going up the following weekend, come hell or high water.

my humble apologies for any inconvenience but a couple of things i can't avoid have cropped up.

That's OK - might be roadtrip weekend in the Puma. I'll touch base with Kat and give you a call once I have, Keith. :) Really appreciate your kindness.

[Scallops]

Hey Keith - I just spoke with John (rozavon)....he has offered to collect the heads once the rain clears up....and I'll get them from him when he comes to town next week. I'll be back loading John with a little something to drop back to you.....;) :D :)

[Scallops]

4 Heads are now with Craig the engine rebuilder for inspection. Thank you Keith and John for the donation - and the courier service. They will all be cleaned up and at least we'll know each one's status.

Craig gave me a "to find" list for the rebuild, so if anyone comes across any of these items post up a link so I might nab 'em!

1) 10 under Main and Big End bearings
2) standard Cam bearings
3) +40/60 pistons and rings
4) Full gasket set.





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[zulu Delta 534]

My gaskets came from 4wd in Melbourne and was fast and reasonable.
Regards
Glen

[Scallops]

Those guys in Melbourne do seem a little odd. I just rang to ask them about availability of my parts, but he simply won't even bother to look into it until I give him my engine number because he doesn't accept that I know it is a 1957 2l spread bore motor...I'll ring him back with the number then, but really....:confused:

[zulu Delta 534]

Better than getting the wrong part!
Regards
Glen

[Scallops]

True - but all I asked him to do were to confirm that he could sources spares for a 2 liter spread bore S1, such as pistons....no, ....sorry mate, not until you tell me your engine number.....this is the same bloke who lectured me that S1 radiator caps in Oz were never tropical 10 lbs versions..and that in fact, S1's didn't have pressurised cooling systems at all!

At any rate, my hopes of using this engine are in his hands, along with Dwayne's from MR...not flushed with confidence really.....if these avenues fail, it's a letter to Dunsfold...if that fails, we rebuild her as is, chuck in a lit match, and I go buy a '68 Mark 11 Jag instead!


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[PhillH]

we rebuild her as is, chuck in a lit match, and I go buy a '68 Mark 11 Jag instead!

Fairly sure I know someone who has a project planned if they can find a SI shell in good nick without a motor. :wasntme:

Don't do anything to rash yet Dan. She is much to beautiful to give up on.

[Scallops]

I spoke with Craig yesterday and he tells me that the first head that they cleaned up was as good as new. I think they'll clean the other 3 too so I'll be able to let you know their status too, Keith. So thank you for the head, I am very humbled.

I also found all I needed through Craddocks and FWD in Melbourne.....:) I post this info as it may assist others when looking for parts....

FWD supplied me with Big End Bearings ($44.00) and Main End Bearings ($55.00) as they had had them in stock for years. Best price I could find anywhere else were $305.00 for both. I had wanted 10 thousands under but got these in 30 and 40 under respectively, but Craig will just grind to suit.

Then from Craddocks....

1) Bearing Camshaft Front
2) Bearing Camshaft Centre and Rear
3) Piston assembly 40 thousands plus (X4)
4) Piston Ring Compression 40 thousands plus (X4)
5) Crankshaft Oil Retainer (2 piece).

All the above was $470.00. :angel:

And at last I found a rear main seal which seem hard to find (So John - no "conversion" necessary! :D)

PS - just realised I might need to order an extra 4 compression rings and 4 oil seal rings!

[wrinklearthur]

Hi

I noticed that the list didn't include thrust washers?
.

[Scallops]

I'm ordering what I'm told to by the chap who is doing the work.......he gave me a list......thrust washers were not on it. :confused: I've since cancelled the rings as part of my order because a full set in .040 over are near $150.00 from England and Craig can make me some for less......


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[Psimpson7]

Hey Dan,

I've been following this. Really glad that you have got a good Cylinder head sorted.

Rgds
Pete

[Killer]

Great work Dan, speaking to Craig last night, he reckoned you were right on top of it.:D
We will have to get onto your gearbox soon, or you will have the engine ready and not the gearbox.:o

Cheers, Mick.

[Scallops]

Great work Dan, speaking to Craig last night, he reckoned you were right on top of it.:D
We will have to get onto your gearbox soon, or you will have the engine ready and not the gearbox.:o

Cheers, Mick.

I think I'm driving him mad with all my questions! :p Was looking through my package of gaskets and seals last night and once I work out which ones are for the gearbox I'll bring 'em over! :D

[wrinklearthur]

Bit of a buzz going on here! I can't wait to see Matilda back on the track.
.

[Scallops]

Bit of a buzz going on here! I can't wait to see Matilda back on the track.
.

Bzzzz! :D Yep, It's a little weird (at least for me) when I get immense pleasure from staring at an invoice for Main and Big end bearings.....had to happen eventually! :)

[LRO53]

I spoke with Craig yesterday and he tells me that the first head that they cleaned up was as good as new. I think they'll clean the other 3 too so I'll be able to let you know their status too, Keith. So thank you for the head, I am very humbled.

I also found all I needed through Craddocks and FWD in Melbourne.....:) I post this info as it may assist others when looking for parts....

FWD supplied me with Big End Bearings ($44.00) and Main End Bearings ($55.00) as they had had them in stock for years. Best price I could find anywhere else were $305.00 for both. I had wanted 10 thousands under but got these in 30 and 40 under respectively, but Craig will just grind to suit.

Then from Craddocks....

1) Bearing Camshaft Front
2) Bearing Camshaft Centre and Rear
3) Piston assembly 40 thousands plus (X4)
4) Piston Ring Compression 40 thousands plus (X4)
5) Crankshaft Oil Retainer (2 piece).

All the above was $470.00. :angel:

And at last I found a rear main seal which seem hard to find (So John - no "conversion" necessary! :D)

PS - just realised I might need to order an extra 4 compression rings and 4 oil seal rings!

Normally if you order a full Piston Assembly from Craddocks or the likes it comes with Rings included. What part number for the pistons did you order this will tell us.

I've got some 1600cc piston assemblys here and they come with rings.

[Scallops]

Yes, they have emailed me to say rings are included, so the 13 pounds will go towards freight and Craig doesn't need to make me the rings.


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[Seriestwo]

Brilliant thread, I am about to start a project on rebuilding an early series 2 with the series 1 engine. The engine in it starts and drives but I know the rings have gone as it blows oil out the breather. The only issue I can find on the engine is that a plug on the exhaust side of the engine blew out a few years back and I didn't have another one handy so I used numetal to plug it up. I posted a pic of it so could someone give me some advice on what the plug is?

I live on the Northside of Brisbane and would love to come and have a look at Matilda when she is going.

Chris

[Seriestwo]

Brilliant thread, I am about to start a project on rebuilding an early series 2 with the series 1 engine. The engine in it starts and drives but I know the rings have gone as it blows oil out the breather. The only issue I can find on the engine is that a plug on the exhaust side of the engine blew out a few years back and I didn't have another one handy so I used numetal to plug it up. I posted a pic of it so could someone give me some advice on what the plug is?

I live on the Northside of Brisbane and would love to come and have a look at Matilda when she is going.

Chris

I forgot to add the pic.

[Scallops]

Brilliant thread, I am about to start a project on rebuilding an early series 2 with the series 1 engine. The engine in it starts and drives but I know the rings have gone as it blows oil out the breather. The only issue I can find on the engine is that a plug on the exhaust side of the engine blew out a few years back and I didn't have another one handy so I used numetal to plug it up. I posted a pic of it so could someone give me some advice on what the plug is?

I live on the Northside of Brisbane and would love to come and have a look at Matilda when she is going.

Chris

You're welcome, Chris.....maybe you'd like to join SLOW? There is a wealth of info within the membership and I'm sure you'd enjoy being a part of the group. :) We'll be having a rebuild day once my engine is finished o I'll let you know when and where. Good luck with yours too.

I think the plug would have been your welsh plug....part of the process to make the galleries within the block. My S1 engine has one in that spot.

[Col.Coleman]

I forgot to add the pic.

I am guessing a 58, going buy the 2 litre motor in the photo.

Feel free to look around.

CC

[Seriestwo]

Well as it happens Scallops I will be joining the club, I was going to join the LROC and it turns out they are more interested in Discos and Defenders then the old series trucks, which is all I am really into. Do you meet up for monthly meetings, so I can come and meet you all.

Chris

[Seriestwo]

And yes CC it is a 58 series 2. Here is the build project.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-2-2a/149933-project-ralph-1958-build.html

[Scallops]

Well as it happens Scallops I will be joining the club, I was going to join the LROC and it turns out they are more interested in Discos and Defenders then the old series trucks, which is all I am really into. Do you meet up for monthly meetings, so I can come and meet you all.

Chris

Great! You'll be very welcome. We don't hold regular member meetings as such; our trips and workshop days are effectively meetings and certain trips do combine with official meetings.

Feel free to PM any of the committee if you need any further info or help.


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[drifter]

So.... does Matilda have a new beating heart?

[Scallops]

So.... does Matilda have a new beating heart?

Looking for 8 new valve rockers, a clutch pressure plate, a clutch plate and a release bearing still...so the job is still in progress. :)

[incisor]

You try alex at seriesoneshop.com ?

[Blknight.aus]

oh, if you need it the engine stand is available again.

[Scallops]

You try alex at seriesoneshop.com ?

He has them - but way expensive. I have them sourced through Craddocks and they're still not cheap; just waiting on an email back with a freight quote.

Thanks for the encouragement everyone (and the engine stand offer Dave)...I really miss driving the old girl.

[incisor]

He has them - but way expensive.

yep, but sometimes you just gotta do what ya gotta do :p

[Scallops]

I've had some success looking for cam followers (rocker arms)....Cox and Turner Engineering in England have been extremely helpful.....I'm sending my worn rocker arms off today....

"Dan - We supply reconditioned rockers (camfollowers) on an exchange-only basis. These have the rocker face machined off, 2 dowel holes drilled and a proprietary chrome-moly steel camfollower pad brazed on. The pads are then profile-ground to the correct curvature and the followers are abrasive rumbled to give the correct surface finish. New bushes are then fitted and drilled for oil holes then honed to suit the camfollower shafts.

The rocker/camfollower set is £260 exchange. If you do not return your old units there is a surcharge of £200. We have supplied over a thousand of thse followers and some sets have now done over 100,000 miles with no problems. It is a far superior system to the original hard chrome facing.

We also have new production camshafts at £185, new camfollower shafts at £60 the pair and c/follower thrust washers at £1.50 each - all specifically designed to run with our rockers/camfollowers.

Freight will be at cost - if you just have the camfollowers it will be around £25

All the best
Ian Cox"

So if anyone else requires difficult to source parts, here are their contact details....:)

Cox & Turner Engineering
Vintage & Classic Engine Specialists

Address:
Huish Farm,Yeovil Road
Tintinhull, Yeovil
Somerset
BA22 8QL

Telephone:01935 826816

E-mail:info@coxandturner.co.uk

I'm going to ask that they throw in a half crate of cider too! :D

[wrinklearthur]

Can we blow the dust off this thread ? :wasntme:
.

[Scallops]

It's like you're reading my mind, Arthur! :) I just managed to get a hold of my machinist about 15 minutes ago....and, drum roll.....my engine will be ready next week!

(although I did hear that for last week too):p

Anyway, I'll be the first to let you all know when we can have a get together and refit the old girl's new heart....I'm thinking it'll be the weekend of the 9th February but I'll sing out....:)

Dan.

[drifter]

This weekend?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

isnt this the 9th?:angel:

[sheerluck]

.......Anyway, I'll be the first to let you all know when we can have a get together and refit the old girl's new heart....I'm thinking it'll be the weekend of the 9th February but I'll sing out....:)

Dan.

Are you singing really quietly Dan? :D

[Scallops]

No....I just haven't got the call that my engine is finished.....the Defender is also stuffed, and I'm still trying to clean up from Oswald....so kind of busy with other stuff too....I have spoken to my machinist, many times recently, he is an old friend, and I guess it will be ready when it's ready. I'll be shouting it from the rooftops when Matilda comes back to life!!!!

[Blknight.aus]

what'd'ya do to the ford?

[wrinklearthur]

No....the Defender is also stuffed,
What happened to the Defender?

[/QUOTE]and I'm still trying to clean up from Oswald....[/QUOTE] Was Oswald a unwelcome gate crasher to the party?
.

[Scallops]

what'd'ya do to the ford?


What happened to the Defender?

and I'm still trying to clean up from Oswald...Was Oswald a unwelcome gate crasher to the party?....

I used the Ford the day after the Ippy flood waters dropped to move a bloke in Basin Pocket back into his house...borrowed Killer's trailer and spent most of the day doing so. Had no dramas....all it did was drive on sealed roads moving stuff.

Next day, drove to work, noticed diesel ****ing from the top of the tank....think the gravity feed tank above it has a missing hose clamp perhaps, but couldn't get in there to see....

Got a RACQ tilt tray - off he went to MR. They are flat out. Haven't even looked at it yet....probably no real biggy, just leaves me without the thing.

Oswald was the remnant cyclone that came through our way Arthur. We had trees down, and a mountain of green waste to deal with (which I presently can't get to the dump cos the Ford is crapped again)....so I've been busy with the Stihl and carrying stuff to my front drive, so that when I get the Ford back, I can take the stuff to the dump.

With one thing and another, kind of been thinking of looking for a new hobby:p....but I reckon Matilda will fix that, along with getting some great stuff happening with SLOW.....I'm planning an interclub, AULRO, everyone welcome, Heritage Rally with judging, prises, and a rally dinner, which SLOW will host at some stage later this year, once Matilda is back on deck.....stay tuned to Club Chat for some taster details shortly....:)

[Blknight.aus]

Is that likely.to happen on a Xmas or waterpump rebuild pace?.


Fozzys the next leafer project.. lotza new toys for him, may even rename him.

[Scallops]

....I've always been SLOW at heart, Dave....can't see anything changing now.

[Scallops]

Went to pick up my engine on Saturday morning....but I couldn't bring it home....there is 1 hour or work left, which will take some weeks since I need....

- 1 short head bolt ( lost in Killer's shed)
- 3 Rocker cover studs (likewise)

...and a 5/8th BSF nut for a rocker arm. However, we found one, but it will require grinding down to size.

I've also ordered a water/ pressure jaeger gauge from the LRSOC, along with new vacuum line and 4 original plugs. Anyone know where I can get a set of distributor leads (including condenser)?

The engine looks great though.....Painted and all cleaned up as new. All fully balanced with new clutch too.

So yesterday arvo, Mick and I pulled the steering box out as it's cracked and won't hold oil. Also put most of my new gaskets into the TC/gearbox, but I now discover I also need a new TC idler shaft/pin and bearing. I'll ring FWD Melbourne for these Monday as I can't find reference to these parts anywhere...unless they have another name....:confused:

Anyway - progress is being made! :)

[drifter]

YAY - light at the end of the tunnel...

[wrinklearthur]

- 1 short head bolt ( lost in Killer's shed) Part No 237345
- 3 Rocker cover studs (likewise)Stud for top rocker cover --- Part No 6316
...and a 5/8th BSF nut for a rocker arm. However, we found one, but it will require grinding down to size. Locknut for tappet adjusting screw --- Part No 2842


Anyone know where I can get a set of distributor leads (including condenser)?
FWD Melbourne is one place I would try, first find the number on the side of the distributor body, as you will need that to get the correct shaped condenser to fit the distributor.


I also need a new TC idler shaft/pin and bearing.

page 86 / item --------------- Description ---------------- Part Number ------ quanity

----- 52 ---------- Roller bearing for intermediate gear -------- 219466 ---------- 2
----- 53 ---------- Thrust washer for intermediate gear ------- 219469 ---------- 2
----- 54 ---------- Shim for intermediate gear ---------------- 234835 ---------- as required
----- 55 ---------- Shaft bearing for intermediate gear -------- 278025 ---------- 1
----- . . ---------- Sealing ring for intermediate gear ---------- 267828 - '56-'57 - 1

[Scallops]

page 86 / item --------------- Description ---------------- Part Number ------ quanity

----- 52 ---------- Roller bearing for intermediate gear -------- 219466 ---------- 2
----- 53 ---------- Thrust washer for intermediate gear ------- 219469 ---------- 2
----- 54 ---------- Shim for intermediate gear ---------------- 234835 ---------- as required
----- 55 ---------- Shaft bearing for intermediate gear -------- 278025 ---------- 1
----- . . ---------- Sealing ring for intermediate gear ---------- 267828 - '56-'57 - 1

Can you explain the above, please? The part I need is a metal rod, about 7 inches long and an inch wide, and the bearing is a cylinder shape. I don't see either of these bits in this list, or do I?

[wrinklearthur]

FWD Melbourne is one place I would try, first find the number on the side of the distributor body, as you will need that to get the correct shaped condenser to fit the distributor.



page 86 / item --------------- Description ---------------- Part Number ------ quanity

----- 52 ---------- Roller bearing for intermediate gear -------- 219466 ---------- 2
----- 53 ---------- Thrust washer for intermediate gear ------- 219469 ---------- 2 fits between the gear and the case
----- 54 ---------- Shim for intermediate gear ---------------- 234835 ---------- as required fits between the gear and the case
----- 55 ---------- Shaft * deleted wrong word * for intermediate gear -------- 278025 ---------- 1 this is that shaft
----- . . ---------- Sealing ring for intermediate gear ---------- 267828 - '56-'57 - 1 goes into a groove in the case around the shaft not found on 1954 to 1955 transfer boxes

no edit function this thread, so did again.
.

[Scallops]

no edit function this thread, so did again.
.

So all I need is 219466 (bearing) and 278025 (shaft)? Are these from Craddocks?

(Sorry for my ignorance).

[Avion8]

Hi Scallops,

We have found the best condensor's to be Bosch GL98-C. Application details on the back say for Plymouth 53, Sunbeam 53-55 & Vauxhall 53 Velox. They are a bit of a pain to install as they don't have a captive bracket, but with a little patience go on a treat. They really do seem to last well though. I had a brand new old stock 1951 correct PN condensor from the UK & it failed after less than 1000kms. The Bosch condensor is available from an Cov's (Coventry's) over in the west.

Cheers

[wrinklearthur]

Here is a series 1 spare parts manual, look at page 84.

http://www.landroverseries.org/LRS1/LRS1-Resources/4107%20-%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20I%201954-1958%20Parts%20Catalogue%20COMPLETE.pdf
.

[drifter]

Cross reference with the parts list I have from 4WD Melbourne and I get:

T42B B on (Pair) and Series III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$ 19.80ea.
T43 Bearings (Pair) up to A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$ 35.20ea.
T43B B on (Pair) and Series III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$ 29.70ea.
T44 Intermediate Gear to A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$165.00ea.
T44B B only . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$165.00ea.
T44C C on . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$165.00ea.
T45 Intermediate Shaft to A (Diameter 1 1/8”) . . . . . . .$ 55.00ea.
T45B B on (Diameter 1 5/8”) and Series III . . . . . . . . . .$ 71.50ea.

IF they still have them in stock

[Scallops]

Thank for the parts manual! Ok - so now I have the 2 part numbers for the shaft and bearing. Hopefully I'll be able to find these somewhere.

[wrinklearthur]

So all I need is 219466 (bearing) and 278025 (shaft)? Are these from Craddocks?

(Sorry for my ignorance).

I would fit the correct amount of thrust washers and shims as well as they stop the noise that comes from the slop or end float on the intermediate gear. you can cut your own from shim brass if your are stuck.

Try again for a work shop manual description, this for a series 3 but is good enough to follow. look at page 37-13

http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Series_III_Part_4.pdf
.

[drifter]

There is also a gearbox manual from my Series 1 files here:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/manuals/series1/Gearbox.pdf

[wrinklearthur]

There is also a gearbox manual from my Series 1 files here:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/manuals/series1/Gearbox.pdf

Hi Drifter

Sorry, but I have already looked at that one and section C26 that covers the transfer box isn't there.

.

[drifter]

damn, the other one I have for older vehicles is this:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/manuals/series2/clutch_gearbox_index.pdf

Page 39-C in the gearbox section maybe

[sheerluck]

So have you got a target for getting this finished Dan? Or just "no rush, it's done when it's done"?

[Scallops]

So have you got a target for getting this finished Dan? Or just "no rush, it's done when it's done"?

Well, I guess I want it done yesterday, but I really don't want to have to go through this again, so we're doing everything thoroughly and properly. Find something so so...then make it perfect.... But it simply must be done for this....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/upcoming-events/169248-qld-rosevale-hotel-august-17th-18th-series-landy-owners-inc-2013-heritage-rally.html

You coming? :)

[Scallops]

Thanks for the great help here, guys. It's really appreciated. I've found all those parts through Craddocks in the UK. Do you think I could presume that part #219466, as listed by Craddock, will consist of the 2 bearings...similarly with part # 219469 - will it come with 2 thrust washers?

I have asked Craddocks themselves, but they are notoriously slow in responding, and I just want to get the stuff ASAP. :)

[sheerluck]

..........But it simply must be done for this....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/upcoming-events/169248-qld-rosevale-hotel-august-17th-18th-series-landy-owners-inc-2013-heritage-rally.html

You coming? :)

Assuming I'm upright by then, no reason why not. I'll know a little more in the next couple of weeks, and assuming all is positive, I'll put my name down.

[Scallops]

Well, after all this time - I got to drive my Matilda home on Tuesday night. It was great.....drove well into the night, from Witta to Ippy via Kilcoy and Fernvale solo.....just the moonlight, warm evening air and my silly grin.....:)

Thanks to the great club men who helped me get this done......Killer, your shed was very much appreciated, as was your guidance, work and help with all of this - from start to near end.....I hope it was OK being there for so long...

Keith - thank you too for your incredible generosity in giving me both a head and a steering box/column - both genuine Series 1 for my car. I doubt I would have gone through with this if I had not your kind support - you are a real Land Rover bloke, and it's an honour to be your friend.

And John - thank you for doing the last touches for me - and finally getting the old girl back firing. You obviously did a great job 'cos I made it home! :p

And really - thanks to the entire community here for encouragement, support and camaraderie ... I love being a part of this community, and whilst I don't perhaps bring the highest degree of mechanical skills to the table, I do try to contribute in other ways.....anyway, it's just great to have Matilda back at home where she belongs, with my stable of 2 other classic British vehicles. :)

Happy Days! :burnrubber:

[Killer]

with my stable of 2 other classic British vehicles. :)

Happy Days! :burnrubber:

You mean the Ford and the BMW! :wasntme:
Seriously though Dan, I am really happy that she is back on the road, giving you driving pleasure.

Cheers, Mick.

[Scallops]

You mean the Ford and the BMW! :wasntme:
Seriously though Dan, I am really happy that she is back on the road, giving you driving pleasure.

Cheers, Mick.

All built in England, my friend! :) BMW owned Land Rover when your TD5 was made - but that's a LR, right? Same with Mini.....and Grover has had enough dramas to clearly make himself a Land Rover....:p

[solmanic]

Well, after all this time - I got to drive my Matilda home on Tuesday night. It was great.....drove well into the night, from Witta to Ippy via Kilcoy and Fernvale solo.....just the moonlight, warm evening air and my silly grin.....:)

Headlights not working then?

[Scallops]

Headlights not working then?

"Work" is a relative term......put it this way, I didn't need to dip the high beam. :D

[Killer]

All built in England, my friend! :) BMW owned Land Rover when your TD5 was made - but that's a LR, right? Same with Mini.....and Grover has had enough dramas to clearly make himself a Land Rover....:p

Yes BMW did own LR when the Td5 was made, although the engine was developed by LR before the takeover, maybe that make it British Aerospace.:angel: I guess Grover is British as the Puma is a British Ford motor, the Mini as I understand it has a Chrysler motor, not very British, but then the Rover V8 is a Buick so there is a pretty good precedent. As you say, all built in England.:)
All in good fun Dan.:D

Cheers,
Mick.

[Scallops]

Yes BMW did own LR when the Td5 was made, although the engine was developed by LR before the takeover, maybe that make it British Aerospace.:angel: I guess Grover is British as the Puma is a British Ford motor, the Mini as I understand it has a Chrysler motor, not very British, but then the Rover V8 is a Buick so there is a pretty good precedent. As you say, all built in England.:)
All in good fun Dan.:D

Cheers,
Mick.

My mini has a Prince engine (Peugeot/Citroen/BMW) which is made in England - nothing to do with Chrysler. Maybe my Mini is German, French and English then.. It does feel very Mini, and I had a '68 850 - I'm just happy being Ippy's answer to Austin Powers at the mo!

But happy to accept that I have but one British vehicle - the topic of this thread...

But drive my trans Atlantic tripe and the continental offering - and who cares? As you say - it is all good.

[Scallops]

Please - no one tell me my Series 1 is American as it was devised originally from a Jeep......:D

[JDNSW]

Please - no one tell me my Series 1 is American as it was devised originally from a Jeep......:D

Well if you want to look at it that way - the original Jeep design was the Bantam scout car whose design was based on the Bantam built Austin Seven (whose design in turn was at least partly inspired by Henry Ford's productions!).

John

[PhillH]

About time she is back together and on the road again Dan. Have a blast driving the old girl around. :cool:

[Scallops]

Well if you want to look at it that way - the original Jeep design was the Bantam scout car whose design was based on the Bantam built Austin Seven (whose design in turn was at least partly inspired by Henry Ford's productions!).

John

Well there you go - we're all driving Fords!

[drifter]

So....

Matilda has been running for a couple of months now - all still OK?

[Scallops]

So....

Matilda has been running for a couple of months now - all still OK?


She needs a new distributor which is on it's way.....totally driveable though.....I'm enjoying having her home.

[drifter]

Awesome.

A mate and I have been rebuilding a Series 1 engine for a 1955SWB - had it all ready to go back in and the new camshaft we had given up on arrived - so we'll be stripping it down again. Rebuilt distributor and carby - should be a goer when it's all back together. We'll put a reconditioned transfer case in the vehicle, too, to help save the environment - the one in it uses an awful lot of oil...

[Scallops]

Well, Bill and I fitted my new Distributor on Saturday morning, and so, with Bill's guidance, and my ears, the old girl is really running nicely now.....

On the first test drive, I could hear a thousand budgies chirping away under the bonnet with acceleration, and rightly assumed that this was the engine "pinging". I adjusted the distributor very slightly (turning the distributor so the vac advance moved anticlockwise) and the engine ran smoother at idle. It also stopped a noise that I had thought was an air leak from the exhaust manifold. Gone too are the burbles and slight backfires on de-acceleration when I take my foot off the accelerator....

So I took her for another longer test drive, all sorts of speeds, slowing down, taking off...and flat out....well, the car is running beautifully. I guess it could theoretically be improved with a timing gun perhaps, but it's running just fine as is. :)

The Border Ranges are about to get a Series 1 camping workout now! It's just great to have her running so fine. :)

[Blknight.aus]

let me know if you want to use a timing gun on it, if no one else offer s up I'll nab the one from work for you,.

[Scallops]

let me know if you want to use a timing gun on it, if no one else offer s up I'll nab the one from work for you,.

I wouldn't mind getting it spot on with a gun, Dave. Thanks. You still in the same house?

[Blknight.aus]

no, my surveillance cameras have identified a certain Series I thats in much better order so I moved. This way when it goes missing you wont know where to look for it :P

(pm sent)

[weeds]

What there's not a timing light app for your iPhone

[Scallops]

What there's not a timing light app for your iPhone

Just googled it! Apparently it can be done with a strobe light flash app that I have downloaded (free).....what frequency would the strobe need to be?

[weeds]

Just googled it! Apparently it can be done with a strobe light flash app that I have downloaded (free).....what frequency would the strobe need to be?

Lol......I have no idea, maybe google frequency of timing lights

[Blknight.aus]

it needs to time in on the #1 pots firing...

any variation on frequency is going to throw it.

you need a really good tachometer to work out your idle RPM.

[Scallops]

I'd just like to give a plug and thank Blknight.aus..... the good knight checked Matilda's timing and idle speed, dwell angle etc with one of the RAAF's high tech gadgets! :p Turns out my fiddling was spot on.....but it's good to know for sure, so thanks mate for helping me out with the check, it's much appreciated.....



....I reckon SLOW needs to have a trip out to your new place Dave - a workshop day, cos as I understand it, you have a few Rovers to fix :censored: .....if we can ever help, let me know.....especially combined with an aftermath BBQ!!! (Beers on me) :)

[Blknight.aus]

no problems mate, good to see the old girl running so sweet (crank starts on one full turn of the crank)

[Scallops]

I declare Matilda finished and ready for anything! :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/381.jpg

Thanks to all the good folks who not only helped me, but encouraged me too....

[MASTER REPUESTOS BALTA SA]

OK just looked up the parts books.
48 to 51 head part no 233430
86,88,107,109 petrol engine head part no 233430.
So the same head fits all engines 1.6 and 2 litre siamese and 2 litre spreadbore.
I think the ones I have are from a 1600 but if one is OK you are welcome to it.
Keith
233430 CYLINDER HEAD LAND ROVER PLEASE DO YOU IN STOCK AND PRICE REGARDS JOAQUIN

[Scallops]

233430 CYLINDER HEAD LAND ROVER PLEASE DO YOU IN STOCK AND PRICE REGARDS JOAQUIN

Are you asking if we can supply you with a Series 1 head? The answer is no if you are.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Written like spam,, but I dont think so,
I think he is just after THAT part number--