While I've got the Autobox out.....

[Barefoot Dave]

Thought I'd start a thread with a clear title to aid future searchers.

What telltales of badness to come should I look for and PM to perform.
Rear Mainseal: Do it anyway or only if weeping/ deteriorated?
T Case: Redo the bearings?

I know that I 'Should' rebuild everything I can reach as it's such a PITA to get the box out, but I have limited funds after the repairs.
Jobs and Priority 1,2 or 3 please?

Thanks Dave

[clubagreenie]

Check how much it would be to give it to a specialist to check out for you. Saves you the time to work on the other bits and they should know more what to look at. Preferably someone who can actually bench test it.

Rear main while it's accessible. Transfer seals, especially the ones between the auto and tfr. It's an issue often and the worst to fix.

[Blknight.aus]

Pull the flex plate, inspect scope the input seals to the pump any signs of ANY oil in the bell housing area in my books mandates replacing both the rear main and the autos pump seals.

selector seals.

[clubagreenie]

Just to add, and I'm not sure about this but something rings a bell about flex plates and cracking but I'm not sure about which models/engines it relates too. Easy to check though. I usually replace flex to T/C bolts as well.

[Barefoot Dave]

Thanks Fellas, Club: cracked flex applies here. will check. WSM says replace, I'm not going to argue, given the amount of force required to remove them, I am sure they are deformed.
Thanks Dave, will check.
Cheers.

[DI5CO]

I had my auto out last week (due to a stupid leaking $10 gasket!):o Lucky I suppose it wasnt the tranny that was stuffed. Anyway, they replaced the flex plate, new gasket (did i mention it was $10.24?) cooler pipe o ring, input seal (trans case) & trans case mount. Everything else was OK.
My mechanic also recommended replacing the flex plate. Actually, they dont recommend it, they just do it to be safe!

Dave