Castor correction bushes for a 2in' lift - is it a must?

[erniec17]

Hi guys,

I've just recently purchased a 2004, TD5 Disco2. I will be doing a 2" suspension lift with Bilstein shocks and Dobinson springs. I have read that some people recommend using castor correction bushes on the trailing arms as it takes the stress out of them due to the lift. Is this really necessary and will it damage the car if I don't?

I'd like to know what your thoughts are and if you guys think it's absolutely necessary. I know I can also buy new trailing arms which has the angle corrected but I think those arms are like USD$550 a pair!!!

Also, do I have to do both front and back? Has anyone lifted their car by 2in and not corrected their castor angle? Do you notice any difference?

I will be doing a VIC high country trip in April so wouldn't want anything to break or go wrong. Better to be safe than sorry so I am interested to hear what the experts think. :D Not sure if this info is necessary or helpful, but I will be using new 265/75/R16 Mickey T. MTZ's as my tires if that makes any difference?

Thank you all for your input and thoughts!

Cheers,

Ernie.

PS: I have purchased the cross member drop kit from LR Automotive to drop the cross member so it doesn't hit the front prop shaft so that will be done! Thanks.

[Slunnie]

You don't need the castor correction and adding it may even create vibrations. I run a 4" lift with out and its fine.

You probably also wont need the Xmember spacer.

[Blknight.aus]

2 Inch lift is generally as high as you can go before you need to consider castor correction, in the odd case you may need to. you will notice that the handling is a little more twitchy with the liftwithout the correction.

[Slunnie]

Disco2's seem to handle more lift without fuss than the classics.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi guys,

I've just recently purchased a 2004, TD5 Disco2. I will be doing a 2" suspension lift with Bilstein shocks and Dobinson springs. I have read that some people recommend using castor correction bushes on the trailing arms as it takes the stress out of them due to the lift. Is this really necessary and will it damage the car if I don't?

I'd like to know what your thoughts are and if you guys think it's absolutely necessary. I know I can also buy new trailing arms which has the angle corrected but I think those arms are like USD$550 a pair!!!

Also, do I have to do both front and back? Has anyone lifted their car by 2in and not corrected their castor angle? Do you notice any difference?

I will be doing a VIC high country trip in April so wouldn't want anything to break or go wrong. Better to be safe than sorry so I am interested to hear what the experts think. :D Not sure if this info is necessary or helpful, but I will be using new 265/75/R16 Mickey T. MTZ's as my tires if that makes any difference?

Thank you all for your input and thoughts!

Cheers,

Ernie.

PS: I have purchased the cross member drop kit from LR Automotive to drop the cross member so it doesn't hit the front prop shaft so that will be done! Thanks.

Get a wheel alignment done before and after. If the castor readings are dramatically changed, and the driving impression is that the steering is now light and darty, castor correction is a good idea.

[clubagreenie]

I actually prefer the sharper steering response post lift. Haven't had to worry about x member yet either.

[Mundy]

After my 2" lift, the steering wandered a little at speeds around 100kph and above and with higher tyre pressures for highway driving. For city use I lower the tyre pressure a few psi which significantly lessens the effect (and also makes the ride more comfortable).

I also needed to put in spacers under the front cross member to prevent the front drive shaft from hitting it when under full extension articulation.

[erniec17]

Thanks to all who replied. I will definitely be getting a wheel alignment done after the lift and I guess I will drive it around for a bit and see what happens. Do any of you run 265.75/R16 tires with your 2" lift?

Do you get any scrubbing against the guards or is clearance pretty good even when wheel is fully compressed up?

Thanks for your feedback guys.

Ernie.

[clubagreenie]

I have 265/75 BFG A/T's and the only issue I have is scrubbing on the radius arm at full lock. Full bump and drop doesn't interfere with the guards.

[eckolsim]

I have a 2" lift and have not had any issues running 265/75/16 BFG muddies. As for rubbing there are some adjustable turn stops that you can undo to stop it but your turning circle reduces. Not really an issue.

Steering at speed is excellent but I also had a new steering damper installed.
BTW it was an ARB fitted OME install.

That was 8 years and 100k km's ago.

[Rudolf]

Short version.
With a lift the projected distance on the road surface between the hub vertical centre line and kingpin inclenation is reduced.
This could cause a shimmy under braking.
Fitting bigger tyres increases this distance again making the wheel more stable.

There are other geometry invloved too but would make the explanation painfully long.