TD5 coolant flood

[Richard93Vogue]

Hi all,

I am rather annoyed with the D2 today. When I bought it a little while ago it had no inhibitor in the radiator water. So I went out and put some cooling system cleaner throught the whole thing, Loctite branded powder from Repco. Flushed out the system well and truely then added $70 worth of red OAT.

Whilst trying to bleed the system I broke the little plastic valve in the STUPID top radiator hose. So I bought a brass one. While trying to get the broken plastic bit out, the part inside the hose came away from its mount. Top hose now useless. So off I go and get a new top hose, complete with plastic bleed valve....

3 hours later I have managed to recycle most of the expensive coolant and get the new hose on. (minus some bark to the hands and a few dollars into the swear jar!)

I get to work this morning and there is a bit of overflow under the car...not too much to worry about, perhaps its overfull. Nope....several hours later there is a flood and expensive red coolant running down the right side of the engine into an ever increasing ocean in the car park.

I can't find where it is coming from....any ideas? Did the system cleaner eat a hole somewhere? Did some of my sharp tongued comments of a highly derogatory nature directed at the car yesterday come back to bite me? :confused::mad:

What a PAIN!!!!

[bee utey]

OAT coolant will find any leak in an engine that has been run with either no coolant or glycol coolant. There will be gaskets weeping all over the place. I hate the stuff. It should only be used in engines with all hoses and gaskets in as-new condition, or to replace existing oat coolant.

[Richard93Vogue]

Damn it...........

Recomendation? Do I flush the stuff out right now and put stop leak and green coolant in?

[bee utey]

Wel, it's the quickest way to get it mobile. It may cost you a radiator rod out sometime in the future, keep an eye on the temps.

A friend of mine had a new engine run on green coolant for 12 months, was told to use oat with his new ally rad, I ended up putting a new head gasket in and cleaning every hose barb made of cast aluminium, and replaced a couple of hoses.

[northiam]

It cant hurt to fill in just with plain water or demineralised water for a few days or so while you sort out the leaks, when sorted add the red stuff.
Mine leaked from the fuel cooler inlet on the drivers side!

[DCPAus]

Damn it...........

Recomendation? Do I flush the stuff out right now and put stop leak and green coolant in?

I went through a long process and now have no leaks, was not easy but was worth it.

I had a leak on my radiator and my top hose, replaced my top hose, and my radiator leak got worse, replaced my radiator and my heater matrix sprung a leak. Must say that my TD5 has 290 000 kms on the clock and had Green Coolant in when I bought it.

IMHO I believe that if you are having troubles then bite the bullet and do all your hoses.

I have now replaced every single hose on the TD5, as well as the Heater Matrix, the radiator. I cleaned every metal pipe that a hose connected to, I flushed the system multiple times. I am now (touch wood) leak free for 1 month.

I have noticed corrosion in a few areas, and I have bought a new water pump, a new fitting and gasket for where the Top Hose attaches to the head, and I am looking for a well priced Oil Cooler Housing.

Once I have the Oil Cooler housing I will replace all of those, with many hours of annoying labour.

I suppose the moral of my story is only use the Red OAT, and check all your hoses, remember as you fix one leak the pressure in the system will just look for the next weak spot

[Marmoset]

The leaks that sprang up all over mine after a new radiator replacement were genarally as a result of corrosion on all hose interfaces. I've ended up taking off most of the hoses, wire brusing the spigots and giving them a thin smear of hylomar to smooth out the surface and then put it all back together again - the only hose I've had to replace was the water pump to coolant rail at the botom - the ends became too flared for re-use. I've also done the fuel cooler o-rings as well - that was untraceable when warm but appears when the engine's cooled.

[Slunnie]

Mine started to leak everywere like a sieve after repalcing the coolant from green back to red. It was coming out of the hose clamps everywhere and out of the fuel cooler on the side of the motor like it was going out of style. I just kept topping it up and the leaks have almost completely sorted themselves out now - I just mop up a drip in the mornings to keep the dog out of it and thats all. Don't go over the 60% recommended OAT mix as that makes it worse.

[davrac]

I am rather annoyed with the D2 today.

Just today?? I am annoyed with mine every day:D

[AMIT1]

Can you give us some tips how to replace the matrix rad?

[robbotd5]

It's quite simple, the car came out with OAT, it should have OAT in the system. No problems.
Regards
Robbo

[schuy1]

"Can you give us some tips how to replace the matrix rad?"

Buy the RAVE CD.
Just to add on coolant, If the engine has been operated for a few years with NO coolant additive ( not a good plan with modern motors They are not holden grey motors! ) There will be corrosion at hose connections and gasket faces . Additives, whether OAT, HOAT or standard glycol , tend to dissolve alloy corrosion, thats part of their job so that is why you suddenly get leaks. Any motor is the same with alloy interfaces.
And just to rehash, it has been said before, there is GREEN OAT in addition to RED . MEG95 springs to mind , which I ran in the TDI for years until the local servo stopped carrying it.

Cheers Scott

[Amigo]

Disco ES TD5 Auto - !90,000k - Owned from new.

I do a coolant change every 3 years - I only flush with clean water. I always use Nulon Red Longlife with OAT inhibitors & I add 3 GM coolant tabs.

I've never had a coolant leak or overheat & it's extremely rare that I ever have to do a top up between changes.

Still have the complete original coolant system (rad, water pump,etc), except for top bleed screw hose (stuffed screw insert), and top rad to expansion tank hose which I leant on 2 weeks ago & it was so brittle it cracked like an egg shell. Replaced it with an original.

According to Hawkeye it runs between 88C & 92C, depending on speed, incline, ambient temp, etc.


Adios!

[Daisy Driver]

This thread has come at just the right time, we woke up to find a great puddle under Daisy this morning. Here is our story.

2004 TD5 200K km.
Never leaked or overheated
Removed the thermostat to get the steering box out about a month ago.
Switched from orange to green coolant when I refilled.
All seemed good.
Puddle this morning, took 4 litres (de-min water only) to top back up.
Drove, parked, waited, looked. No overheat or puddles.
Lobbed in Rad Seal.
Drove, parked, waited, looked (again). No overheat or puddles (again).

Baffled.

1. Any thoughts?
2. What does OAT mean?

[Amigo]

Hi DaisyDriver.

The green coolant has possibly caused the leak.

OAT is Organic Acid Technology - An OAT coolant is recommended for TD5's.

Some good info here......

Coolant Experts (http://www.coolantexperts.com/coolant_overview/oat_coolant)



Adios.

[Daisy Driver]

Hi Amigo

Many thanks for the advice. I'm going to drain, flush, refill with OAT and watch very closely.

DD

[LandyAndy]

This thread has come at just the right time, we woke up to find a great puddle under Daisy this morning. Here is our story.

2004 TD5 200K km.
Never leaked or overheated
Removed the thermostat to get the steering box out about a month ago.
Switched from orange to green coolant when I refilled.
All seemed good.
Puddle this morning, took 4 litres (de-min water only) to top back up.
Drove, parked, waited, looked. No overheat or puddles.
Lobbed in Rad Seal.
Drove, parked, waited, looked (again). No overheat or puddles (again).

Baffled.

1. Any thoughts?
2. What does OAT mean?

Its VERY common with TD5s to start leaking when cold in winter,when the engine warms up the leak stops.Its the fuel cooler.Remove it and fit new O rings and its fixed.If you do a search the size needed is listed on AULRO.Dont bother with Land Rover,they will want to sell you a new fuel cooler.
Andrew

[DiscoKym]

Mine started to leak everywere like a sieve after repalcing the coolant from green back to red. It was coming out of the hose clamps everywhere and out of the fuel cooler on the side of the motor like it was going out of style. I just kept topping it up and the leaks have almost completely sorted themselves out now - I just mop up a drip in the mornings to keep the dog out of it and thats all. Don't go over the 60% recommended OAT mix as that makes it worse.


You say 60%? I had the soft head gasket replaced last year and I noticed coolant on the invoice $140 (Valvoline I think) and the coolant in it almost looks like concentrate compared to my premixed (Penrite) top up coolant.

I have all 3 ends of my new top hose leaking at the moment, even after replacing two of the new spring clamps with worm drive clamps.

Is there an easy way to test concentration of coolant?

[discorevy]

Hi , you can do a litmus test , call in to a local mechanic and ask for a test strip or get them to test , but you might want to remove the hose where its leaking and clean the surfaces up and refit hose first , you can then do a pressure test as well.
Cheers

[Outback 1]

Its VERY common with TD5s to start leaking when cold in winter,when the engine warms up the leak stops.Its the fuel cooler.Remove it and fit new O rings and its fixed.If you do a search the size needed is listed on AULRO.Dont bother with Land Rover,they will want to sell you a new fuel cooler.
Andrew

x2 try roverlord on here they sell the fuel cooler kits

[Tombie]

An ever increasing flow down the side of the engine hey?

If its the passenger side... Check the small hose hiding behind the exhaust below the turbo... Often overlooked and neglected...

[discorevy]

Yep , all good info , but I was trying to give Discokym a reply as that was the only post dated this month / year ..... Hopefully the op has it sorted by now :p

[DiscoKym]

Hi , you can do a litmus test , call in to a local mechanic and ask for a test strip or get them to test , but you might want to remove the hose where its leaking and clean the surfaces up and refit hose first , you can then do a pressure test as well.
Cheers

The radiator top hose has been removed, cleaned and refitted twice. Once with the new OEM spring clamp (found larger diameter then the old one) and once with a screw clamp.

Thanks for the tip on the Litmus strips.

[northiam]

These will also test coolant concentrations levels

Coolant Tester Ethylene Glycol Concentration Refractometer Aust Supplier | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COOLANT-TESTER-ETHYLENE-GLYCOL-CONCENTRATION-REFRACTOMETER-AUST-SUPPLIER-/331653691427?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368)

COOLANT TESTER | AF1420P (http://www.rarespares.net.au/waggawagga/ProductPage.aspx?product=AF1420P)


Regards

[DiscoKym]

These will also test coolant concentrations levels

Coolant Tester Ethylene Glycol Concentration Refractometer Aust Supplier | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/COOLANT-TESTER-ETHYLENE-GLYCOL-CONCENTRATION-REFRACTOMETER-AUST-SUPPLIER-/331653691427?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368)

COOLANT TESTER | AF1420P (http://www.rarespares.net.au/waggawagga/ProductPage.aspx?product=AF1420P)


Regards

Thanks for the suggestions.

I've ordered the one from Rare Spares, so we'll see how we go.

[DiscoKym]

Well the preston tester says it is mixed at 50%.

I even checked in some concentrate I have. :(

So concentration isn't my problems.

Top hose is new and genuine? Replacing factory spring clamps with screw clamps didn't help.

[schuy1]

Is it possibly the dreaded head gasket pressuring the cooling system? It seems that when this happens replacing the hose clamps with worm drive units have very little effect on stopping leaks. Maybe get a sniff test done on your coolant.
Cheers Scott

[DiscoKym]

Probably not head gasket as it was done last year. Well I hope not...

[GIL]

Hi Discokym,
I had the exact same weeps after replacing the hoses. Found if I cleaned up the bosses the hoses clamped onto, and put Permatex No3 (non setting) on the hose and boss, then fitted hoses, the weeps stopped after a day or 2. Been weep free for months now.
Before doing this it would weep when cold but not when hot.
GIL

[DiscoKym]

Hi Discokym,
I had the exact same weeps after replacing the hoses. Found if I cleaned up the bosses the hoses clamped onto, and put Permatex No3 (non setting) on the hose and boss, then fitted hoses, the weeps stopped after a day or 2. Been weep free for months now.
Before doing this it would weep when cold but not when hot.
GIL

Yes similar to all the advise I have got.

I have bought a bottle of Loctite No3 to do the job myself..

Did you use OEM spring clamps or screw clamps?

[DiscoKym]

Bought a new water outlet for the head as the old pipe looked like there was some corrosion on the bottom.

While on the phone Phil said they have had a bit of trouble with genuine top hoses weeping through the reinforcing cord. When I pulled mine off I can push liquid out the ends of the pipe at the cord????

So for now I have put the new water outlet, old (good condition) top hose back on and put No3 on the joins.

Will see how it goes and talk to Phil about a replacement.

Any one tried silicone radiator hoses?