Suspension bushing kits

[glenhendry]

Hi All

The ride has gradually become quite harsh and noisy. I suspect I just have old tired bushings that have been pushed over the edge by my four wheel driving exploits. I want to replace the full set.

I do not want a race car feel, so I plan to dodge the polyurethane bushes and just get replacement rubber kit. Anyone know the best place to get a whole kit from? I have checked the usual suspects, but I am after some local recent experience on the supply. The britpart kit (http://srx.au.ebayrtm.com/clk?RtmClk&u=1H4sIAAAAAAAAAEWO3WqDQBBG7wXfQSjp3aq7E91VWEqa2Cb kF6OBgFDWGtolNYquSN6%2Bk9705uPMmRn4nrbNzXm7lA4Fh%2 FkxBDHjzvaY4UCZbXWD%2FDamLWLPG8fRvZTq7n42tasGT5vaS 2e794Sk%2B1OSkgMI8pofl2S9yshhvzn%2FRZ4m2XK2S8hizqn PiTf1fQY0CAXw6OXDdNdeV4VsgYnQrfnzw7Sqq%2FtCqp%2BvZ gKLzWk1YaE2A3I%2Bf3BjbshTpPb%2FoO0RQ7At1UiKqSvJbau spICIRmg0mhAocMYjIZjPAo5VcNFdJb79AnNCQJwJAQAA&ch=3&g=7941be8d1350a5a98557cc87ffc891ab&i=95726166&aii=6313727988202570021&lid=839191&m=176891&pi=3286)looks like a complete set, and is what I want, but only appears in poly.

Thanks for any info

[Davender]

Im looking at the same kit for my 110 Defender and new springs and shocks too :)

[isuzurover]

SuperPro (Australian Made!) are the ONLY poly bushes I would fit to a coil or air suspended landy. IME they are well designed, and sufficiently soft/flexible, unlike all the others I ahve tried.

After failures of OEM and "OEM quality" rubber bushes, I now have SuperPro poly bushes replacing everything except the a-frame chassis bushes (only because they are still in good condition) on my 110.

[DT-P38]

Hi Glen,

Both myself and a mate with a P38 are currently looking at bush kits too. He is of a similar opinion to IsuzoRover in that he wants to buy a QUALITY poly kit so they arent so unforgiving.... How about we work out who wants in, whats best, and try to do a group buy?

As an aside, I thought bushes were my only problem with rough/clunky ride, however, when under the Pig last night I noticed that just about every boot on every steering component is split and/or crushed... Gonna get my usual repairer to check it all out and advise, but me thinks I may be up for a bit more than bushes. BUGGER.

HooRoo, Dave.

[Hoges]

Am in the same "boat"! I have collected various (OEM) bushes from British Parts UK when on special over the past 2 yrs with a view to doing the lot in one go... However, I have seen several posts on various sites recommending that for bushes, one should stick with the genuine part:(

I'm still not sure about the hysterisis characteristics:eek: of poly bushes. Some clever chemists have supposedly been able to manipulate the compression/squeeze properties of these polymer materials so that they exhibit different elasticity depending on the direction of distortion:eek:

e.g. a graded spring rate when compressed vertically to deal with bumps, but harden when twisted etc thereby maintaining/improving steering response.

Further, I've read that the two part (poly) bushes are easier to fit, but (some brands) have been reported as "gouging out" because they are not properly secured in an outer casing. The vulcanising adhesive connecting the bush to the outer casing in the standard rubber bushes is deemed critical to its overall structural integrity.

I've driven a V8 Commodore with polybushes (supposedly 'comfort' soft ) and every tiny imperfection in the road surface was transmitted through the car...although that may have also been related to the (very) low profile tyres the owner had fitted ...but it did corner like a Mini:twisted:

....

[Vern]

x2 for Super Pro:)

[poleonpom]

Freaky, I've just been reading about polybush kits and then this post!

What sort of ballpark cost are we looking at for the existing kits? I've stretched the budget a bit with the arnotts (and I'm not talking biscuits)!

[Vern]

order them from th UK, its much cheaper, which is funny as they are an Australian product. Cost me around $250 shipped:)

[glenhendry]

I am keen to join in for the group buy. The britpart kit listed in the original post was only $100, but perhaps you get what you pay for. I would be able to pay more if it was going to be good kit and was indeed the full set of bushes.

[123rover50]

order them from th UK, its much cheaper, which is funny as they are an Australian product. Cost me around $250 shipped:)

Went into supercheap today and was quoted over $450 for a super pro 110 kit for panhard and radius arms. A UK site on google gave it as 154 quid. I might go back and get a price including freight.
The supercheap quote was less freight at another 10 bucks.
Who did you get them from at $250?

[Hoges]

FWIW (probably not much!) I've noticed of late that Supercheap have been bumping their prices significantly... I bought a couple of filters for non LR vehuicles the other day...a Mazda 121 and a holden Astra...went to S'cheap then 200m up the road to Repco... Repco were $12 cheaper plus $35 cheaper for the same brand brakepads for the Astra... Frankly the best prices I seem to get are at Bursons! They are at least as good as the other two most of the time....

[Vern]

Paddocks 139 quid, then add frieght:), at that price i bought 2 sets:D.
Includes, panhard, all radius arm and control arm bushes (upper and lower)

[Hoges]

I notice that the superPro catalogue contains a unit part no. SPF2718K which is to counteract the inevitable "pull" to the left. I did not understand previouslywhat was causing this...very clever.

[Hoges]

Paddocks 139 quid, then add frieght:), at that price i bought 2 sets:D.
Includes, panhard, all radius arm and control arm bushes (upper and lower)

does it include upper/lower bushes for shock absorbers? Those bushes are critical for removing a lot of the NVH...

[Vern]

Dunno, mine was for a RRC and D1. Surely shocker bushes could be sourced from them or locally.

[PaulP38a]

re shock bushes - from the few different models of shocks I have tried out on my P38, the bushes are all different in shape and size. I'd like to think they are that way because they have been engineered to suit the shock.

Just a thought.

I should probably do the bushes on my P38's so I'd be interested in a group buy too.

If we reach some concensus on what to get, I can make some enquiries with contacts overseas and/or locally to see if Hard Range can get them at a better price.

Just thinking out loud here...

savings on shipping price will possibly be negated once the group buy goes over $1000 due to import duty and GST
if I on-sell them through Hard Range (even as a group buy) I have to apply GST to Australian sales, so a further reduction in benefit
shipping them out of Canberra to the rest of Oz will be expensive
smaller orders (sub-$1k) shipped to a Hard Range depot in each city may be more cost-effective, but playing with fire in terms of avoiding Customs duty... i.e 2 or more shipments at $950 each through the same company will attract attention
maybe I am better off being a participant in the group buy instead of offering to organise another one ;)
Cheers, Paul.

[DT-P38]

Listening to Pauls feedback, it seems to make sense that we have a "buy" in each state/capital city to avoid exceeding the magical $1K mark. I am pretty happy with Vern's feedback on price too being around $250 landed (and perhaps a bit better with bulk orders).

We also seem to have a pretty good free courier service here on AULRO so if nobody is in a hurry, they could probably get transported from a central spot in each state/capital with out much local freight cost.

So, who is keen on Super Pro? Please list alternative for discussion if not...

And who is actually in? Please use quote button and add your name into the reply.

------------------------------------------------

THE (TENTATIVE) LIST.
------------------------------------------------
DT-P38 SUPER PRO X 1 set.

RovinRangie SUPER PRO X 1

PaulP38a SUPER PRO X 2

------------------------------------------------

Will not hold you to this draft list but need some idea of whether or not to just get my own or try and get a better deal.

HooRoo, Dave.

[glenhendry]

Listening to Pauls feedback, it seems to make sense that we have a "buy" in each state/capital city to avoid exceeding the magical $1K mark. I am pretty happy with Vern's feedback on price too being around $250 landed (and perhaps a bit better with bulk orders).

We also seem to have a pretty good free courier service here on AULRO so if nobody is in a hurry, they could probably get transported from a central spot in each state/capital with out much local freight cost.

So, who is keen on Super Pro? Please list alternative for discussion if not...

And who is actually in? Please use quote button and add your name into the reply.

------------------------------------------------

THE (TENTATIVE) LIST.
------------------------------------------------
DT-P38 SUPER PRO X 1 set.

RovinRangie SUPER PRO X 1

PaulP38a SUPER PRO X 2

glenhendry SUPER PRO X 1

------------------------------------------------

Will not hold you to this draft list but need some idea of whether or not to just get my own or try and get a better deal.

HooRoo, Dave.

Im in

[Hoges]

I'm certainly tempted! I've followed the poly vs OEM rubber debate for the past couple of years on other fora including RR.net. The consensus on RR.net appeared to be to go OEM rubber...but that may be due to the brand/type of poly bush available at the time in the USA.. "blue" poly "comfort" were terms which came to mind.

There is no doubt that the poly bushes provide measurably more-precise handling. What I'm not convinced about at the moment is their improved NVH factor. I tried to contact Super Pro late last week...I'll do so again.

There is another factor not so far addressed : i.e. the state of the rubber bushes used between the chassis and body... logic dictates that they must also play a considerable role in reducing the "conductive" shock through the body from corrugations/broken bitumen and other irregularities in the road surface...

Thoughts?

cheers

[p38arover]

I bought a set of front radius arm rubber bushes a couple of years ago, machined up the press tool to remove/refit the bushes but have never got around to doing it. The tool has been used on other cars.

One of the reasons for not proceeding was I was doubtful of the quality of the items having seen other stuff from the same supplier. I didn't want to do it twice.

So I may be interested in the poly bushes.

[redandy3575]

Listening to Pauls feedback, it seems to make sense that we have a "buy" in each state/capital city to avoid exceeding the magical $1K mark. I am pretty happy with Vern's feedback on price too being around $250 landed (and perhaps a bit better with bulk orders).

We also seem to have a pretty good free courier service here on AULRO so if nobody is in a hurry, they could probably get transported from a central spot in each state/capital with out much local freight cost.

So, who is keen on Super Pro? Please list alternative for discussion if not...

And who is actually in? Please use quote button and add your name into the reply.

------------------------------------------------

THE (TENTATIVE) LIST.
------------------------------------------------
DT-P38 SUPER PRO X 1 set.

RovinRangie SUPER PRO X 1

PaulP38a SUPER PRO X 2

------------------------------------------------

Will not hold you to this draft list but need some idea of whether or not to just get my own or try and get a better deal.

HooRoo, Dave.
I'm in. I'd take it that this is a complete bush kit both front and rear?

[Hoges]

I've read a lot of posts this weekend about "rubber vs poly" and I get the impression that replacing all the bushes with poly is not necessarily a good thing.

It's the engineering "principles" I'm trying to latch onto (I'm not an engineer...maybe that explains it:() in order to understand pros and cons of such a swap...

are poly bushes worth it?? - ScoobyNet (http://bbs.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-general-1/622292-are-poly-bushes-worth-it.html) see post by "harvey"of 20 July 2007...especially the bit about diff noises never heard before, being transmitted through to the cabin when he switched to poly bushes...



Suspension Mounts - Rubber Vs Polyurethane (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f47/suspension-mounts-rubber-vs-polyurethane-54060.html) read post by rayray086

90 Series - Polyurethane bushes • Land Cruiser Club and Forum (http://landcruiserclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=8396&sid=5c284ef0fd56593dd92d50883c58d87b&start=10) The European Landcruiser club ...seem to be a very civil mob judging from their posts ;)
On page 2 there's a long post by "blackwidow" praising the swap to Super Pro polybushes on his vehicle: but he is now expressing concern that the less flexible poly bushes are transmitting larger stresses and he's wondering about potential cracking...


It's a good deal for the kit... but I am also wary of the "law of unintended consequences" ...I'll pass this time around thanks.

[DT-P38]

There is another factor not so far addressed : i.e. the state of the rubber bushes used between the chassis and body... logic dictates that they must also play a considerable role in reducing the "conductive" shock through the body from corrugations/broken bitumen and other irregularities in the road surface...

Thoughts?

cheers

Never even knew they were there, let alone an issue!

Help us understand more... might be a next step/buy if enough ppl have a need or desire to do them?

Q. Are they be located at the points I might want to put body lift spacers in?

[Hoges]

Never even knew they were there, let alone an issue!

Help us understand more... might be a next step/buy if enough ppl have a need or desire to do them?

Q. Are they be located at the points I might want to put body lift spacers in?

yep and yep:p AFAIK there's 8 of them. Obvioulsy if the rubber hardens then the vibration trnasmitted will be increased significantly...

[DT-P38]

I've read a lot of posts this weekend about "rubber vs poly" and I get the impression that replacing all the bushes with poly is not necessarily a good thing.

It's the engineering "principles" I'm trying to latch onto (I'm not an engineer...maybe that explains it:() in order to understand pros and cons of such a swap...

are poly bushes worth it?? - ScoobyNet (http://bbs.scoobynet.com/scoobynet-general-1/622292-are-poly-bushes-worth-it.html) see post by "harvey"of 20 July 2007...especially the bit about diff noises never heard before, being transmitted through to the cabin when he switched to poly bushes...

Suspension Mounts - Rubber Vs Polyurethane (http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/forums/f47/suspension-mounts-rubber-vs-polyurethane-54060.html) read post by rayray086

90 Series - Polyurethane bushes • Land Cruiser Club and Forum (http://landcruiserclub.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=8396&sid=5c284ef0fd56593dd92d50883c58d87b&start=10) The European Landcruiser club ...seem to be a very civil mob judging from their posts ;)
On page 2 there's a long post by "blackwidow" praising the swap to Super Pro polybushes on his vehicle: but he is now expressing concern that the less flexible poly bushes are transmitting larger stresses and he's wondering about potential cracking...

It's a good deal for the kit... but I am also wary of the "law of unintended consequences" ...I'll pass this time around thanks.

Well you (and those bits of commentary) have me thinking again too Hoges.
Maybe we need someone with 2 p38's to do a back to back comparison?

Anyways, I am getting the feeling that perhaps standard rubber are a good idea for some too. Especially given they have probably done a good enough job for all our machines for the last decade (nearly 2 for mine) anyway.

Maybe its as simple as: standard/OEM rubber are for you if your focus is flexibility and ride comfort and poly is for those with a bent for a more direct and tighter feel. Not forgetting some reports indicate a down side to "hardening up" your bushes (like greater stress and noise in some areas) that may well require a change of driving technique to suit the vehicles revised dynamics.

I'll see this week what prices I can find on both super pro poly and standard/OEM rubber. Don't see why we can't do both anyway.

If anyone wants to change their mind or comment more on the subject just continue to reply in this thread. I will up date the list and details every few days.

Hoo Roo, Dave

[PaulP38a]

Maybe we need someone with 2 p38's to do a back to back comparison?


was that targeted at anyone in particular? :p

Either way, I'll buy some. Not overly convinced one way or the other whether rubber or poly are the way to go yet.

Cheers, Paul.

[DT-P38]

The more I read, the more I think the perfect solution is probably part rubber and part PU.

Given the strength of a P38 chasis and drivetrain, I am personally inclined to go PU still. I don't believe a bit of stiffening is gonna shake a P38 to pieces.

In saying that though, if I were to put PU spacers in for a 1&1/2 inch body lift, then I would probably want to change my mind back to rubber. I'll probably buy both if my research and decision making hasn't been finalised around the body lft by then.

[Hoges]

there's all sorts of traps for young players with a body lift... lengthened transmission shift leaver, changes to drive angles of steering column shaft, total change of space/distance relationship between firewall and engine componentry -> extensions to wiring harnesses, extended sunroof drains, cut/extend hydraulic brake lines ... you really sure about this? you may be better off with GenIII and extended EAS sensor arms... or fit portal axles?:eek:

[DT-P38]

was that targeted at anyone in particular? :p

Cheers, Paul.

Not specifically, I thought Hoges had 2 too?!?

[Hoges]

Not specifically, I thought Hoges had 2 too?!?

The thought of obtaining a second vehicle had crossed my mind... :twisted: but I daren't mention it here... We live on a very small block close to the city... .".. don't mention the war / I mean P38, Bazil":wasntme:

[DT-P38]

So far I have the following to share...

Bursons want $430 for the Superpro P38A 4X4 spec kit (KIT0090K). Supercheap/Repco don't list it. Paddock Spares UK want $278 for same kit.
I am hoping we can source this kit directly at some form of discount.

A local (Melbourne) supplier estimates $450-500 for a complete OEM rubber kit. He guess-timated the genuine LR item(s) would likely total $800-900. I have a couple more OZ suppliers to call for pricing tomorrow. Will update again when I can.

E-bay UK sellers Island 4X4 have on offer 2 types of Britpart kit. Yellow and black which are both around $100. From what I can tell the black appears to be the softer version and requires no special tools to fit - further investigation required. Strangely the cheapest kit appear to have the most components with shock bushes also provided.

Bearmach also have a nice bluey-purple set which I have yet to understand pricing for.

P38spares.co.uk have an orange "Genuine Poly Bush" kit for $260- These may also be available direct from the manufacturer and are avail. in dynamic or comfort. Poly Bush seem to promote themselves as the original and the best.

British Atlantic have a selection of rubber OEM bushes but not everything. However, their prices look good and they also have std factory body/chasis blocks for a buck and a half each.

None of the above includes freight.

The majority of feedback documented about P38's with PU kits put through is negative, but a lot of it is based on what so and so said not individuals experiences. In saying that the coments from those that have used them seem to be split down the middle as to if they are good or bad for P38's. In general the PU's seem to get a good rap from those that mainly use their cars on road... in off road applications they tend to wear down more easily and are not generally supple enough. Some also point out they need to be checked/lubed on a yearly basis if they are to continue to work well.

However, there are positive comments here and there for specific types and uses. Mainly the softer "comfort"style ones.

Thats enough for me for tonight, I am bushed! :eek::D:p

[glenhendry]

Great work. You have summarised my confusing investigation nicely. Im still in for group buy.

[DT-P38]

Managed to source a really good local price on the Super Pro Kit. We will need a volunteer in QLD to pick them up, but essentially it is now as good as a UK price at $350- The kit will include all bushes for radius arms, panhard rod and front sway bar. I do not think we can do better than this, so just reconfirm for me if you are in on this one.

I have yet to compile and work out the final cost for the kit of standard rubber items from British Atlantic. Will update when I have the best package and price. Note: Local places can NOT compete on price of these.

Beware, I am led to believe these are not as easy a DIY fit as the PU ones. Some pressing (off and on) and use of special tools is required.

Body rubbers are also avail. from these guys and pretty cheap at around $1.50 so can do at the same time.

I am also going to get some other steering/front end bits and pieces I need (like tie rod ends and ball joints) to maximise freight charges. Let me know about any other smallish/lightish bits and bob's you may want to add.

[glenhendry]

I can help out with a Brisbane pickup of the kit.

I am still wondering why the Britpart kit (which looks to include shock bush mounts) is only around $100 when this kit omits the shock mounts and is ~$350. Aren't the shock mounts considered one of the more important ones for harsh rides and road noise?

The answer may well be that the SuperPro kit is just much better, and if so then I am ok.

[DT-P38]

Thanks for offer of pick up GlenHendry. As far as price diff I understand it to be quality of engineering and materials. However, I can't find any independent comparo's to get specifics. With the shock bushes my opinion is that they are replaced with every shock change and hence should be fresh(ish). I would think people would be doing airbag and shock updates before bushes. I can see that perhaps some have done their life's service before the shocks give out, but expect that would be an exception. I guess it's probably like tie rod and ball joints they have varying roles and life expectancies,

In saying that, I am no engineer. Perhaps it's something to hit an SME with.

[DT-P38]

Been slack on this one lately, will finalise this weekend.

[51jay]

Im in
51jay superpro P38 x1 classic 93 on steel springs x1

[DT-P38]

51jay superpro P38 x1 classic 93 on steel springs x1

Hey Jay,

Can put you in for the P38 PU superpro kit but I'm not chasing classic stuff on this one.

Nearly finished...

Cheers, Dave.

[51jay]

ok put me in for the P38 set

[DT-P38]

Hi again,

Sorry for delays, see below and confirm your order (or any queries) to me via PM please. I will then advise account details for payment and place orders.


Thanks for your patience,

Dave.


------------------------------------------------
WHAT’S ON OFFER.
------------------------------------------------
OFFER 1. SuperPro PU P38 Suspension Bush Kit - $336
Includes: All PU bushes for radius arms, panhard rod and front sway bar.
Note: 100% Australian made

OFFER 2. OEM All Rubber P38 Suspension Bush Kit - $140
Includes: All Rubber bushes for panhard rod, front sway bar and Radius Arms.
Note: This kit requires special press and LR adapter.

OFFER 3. OEM Rubber and PU P38 Suspension Bush Kit - $169
Includes: Rubber bushes for panhard rod and front sway bar and PU Radius Arm bushes. Note: This kit maintains as much OEM rubber as possible whilst also including “comfort” level PU radius arm bushes to negate the need for special LR fitting tools.

------------------------------------------------
WHO’S IN.
------------------------------------------------
DT-P38 DEAL 3 X 1 set.

RovinRangie SUPER PRO X 1

PaulP38a SUPER PRO X 1

glenhendry SUPER PRO X 1

Redandy3575 SUPER PRO X 1

51jay SUPER PRO X 1

P38arover Offer 3 x 1 set
------------------------------------------------

[Vern]

Dave, for those who don't know, you can put the SuperPro bushes in with a vice.:) Definately woth the bit extra, just did the wifes D1 on the weekend, drives so much better, although the rubber was a bit shagged, but the bushes were rather easy to fit.:)

[redandy3575]

I'm still in

Offer 3 for me please x 1

I take it that they're the original rubber bushes?

Also, how do we arrange payment? and to who?


Cheers

Andrew

[LavisLane]

Hi again,

Sorry for delays, see below and confirm your order (or any queries) to me via PM please. I will then advise account details for payment and place orders.


Thanks for your patience,

Dave.


------------------------------------------------
WHAT’S ON OFFER.
------------------------------------------------
OFFER 1. SuperPro PU P38 Suspension Bush Kit - $336
Includes: All PU bushes for radius arms, panhard rod and front sway bar.
Note: 100% Australian made

OFFER 2. OEM All Rubber P38 Suspension Bush Kit - $140
Includes: All Rubber bushes for panhard rod, front sway bar and Radius Arms.
Note: This kit requires special press and LR adapter.

OFFER 3. OEM Rubber and PU P38 Suspension Bush Kit - $169
Includes: Rubber bushes for panhard rod and front sway bar and PU Radius Arm bushes. Note: This kit maintains as much OEM rubber as possible whilst also including “comfort” level PU radius arm bushes to negate the need for special LR fitting tools.

------------------------------------------------
WHO’S IN.
------------------------------------------------
DT-P38 DEAL 3 X 1 set.

RovinRangie SUPER PRO X 1

PaulP38a SUPER PRO X 1

glenhendry SUPER PRO X 1

Redandy3575 SUPER PRO X 1

51jay SUPER PRO X 1

P38arover Offer 3 x 1 set
------------------------------------------------


Just picking this up, have recently been quoted $1200 to get all of the bushes in and fitted by Pedders. Have sat on that until I can look at this properly. This is just what I need! - I'm keen for deal 3.

Dave - guessing you'll be in touch re payment etc?

Dave

[FANTOM P38]

Lock me in for Super Pro set x 1 Dave.
Let me know when payment required.
thanks Martin :wasntme:

[DT-P38]

Thanks for PM's/responses, i will do a final tally and place orders at the end of this week. Will also PM everyone with account details to deposit payment to between now and then.

Let me know by return PM if payment this week is a problem and I will see if I can push some of the orders back a week.

Note: as posted earlier, delivery will be via AULRO courier to a volunteer in each capital city (or where ever our fellow AULRO'ians are traveling!). So please do not expect overnight delivery unless of course your happy to pay extra and I'll arrange via AUS POST (let me know via PM). I should have a couple of kits early this week so will check weights and post charges then advise.

[51jay]

Just to clarify things, I'm in for the third option rubber + pu not the full pu kit

[PaulP38a]

Dave - did PM you the other day... but to be sure...
pls put me down for 2x Offer 3 (not Offer 1) - I start a new "day job" tomorrow so I'll need to be frugal for the next few weeks :o

Cheers, Paul.

[philjphil]

Just jumped into this thread. Last week I received a full front bush kit from Brit Parts only to find out that my local shop could not fit the radius arm bushes telling me they were the wrong size. After a quick google (should have done this before ordering) it became clear that the bushes are correct but require a special tool. Is there anyone in the Gold Coast region able to help out with the loan of the tool. If not is it to late to join order for the supply of 4 radius arm bushes that will press in without the special LR tool. Thanks in advance Phil.

[Hoges]

According to the 'chaps' on rangerovers.net who fix Rangies for a living, the best way to fit the OEM type bushings without a special tool is to chamfer the leading edge slightly to give the bush a start in the radius arm then simply push it into place..haven't tried it yet but plan to this weekend...will let you know.

[DT-P38]

Just jumped into this thread. Last week I received a full front bush kit from Brit Parts only to find out that my local shop could not fit the radius arm bushes telling me they were the wrong size. After a quick google (should have done this before ordering) it became clear that the bushes are correct but require a special tool. Is there anyone in the Gold Coast region able to help out with the loan of the tool. If not is it to late to join order for the supply of 4 radius arm bushes that will press in without the special LR tool. Thanks in advance Phil.

Can do Phil.

Just placed main order(s) today but will have a second group going through next week.

[DT-P38]

I'm still in

Offer 3 for me please x 1

I take it that they're the original rubber bushes?

Also, how do we arrange payment? and to who?


Cheers

Andrew

Original (LR) items are a lot more expensive. These are OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer.

They are coming through a very reputable well established LR parts supplier in Melbourne.

[philjphil]

Can do Phil.

Just placed main order(s) today but will have a second group going through next week.

Thanks Dave.

I called into Ricks 4 x 4 at Nerang on the way home today and they said they will be happy to fit them next Tuesday, so will see how we go. If there is an issue I will contact you to order "easy fit" bushes.

Hoges look forward to hearing how you go.

Thanks both

[DT-P38]

Apologies in advance for the following.

Offer 3. price is $248.

I miscalculated the PU bush component of this kit due to there being only 2 bushes in the kit listed not 4, and hence no3 needs 2 lots of 2 for front and rear.

There may also be a slight delay due to availability now that I need to double that part of the orders.

Please do not feel guilty if you need to change your order, pull out or delay payment for a week. My error so I will help out where I can.

Will PM account details for payments shortly. Please let me know of any changes by return PM.

Again, apologies for any inconveniance resulting from my dick-head-ness!

[DT-P38]

Hi,

I have just learned that there may be different diameter sway bars on the fronts of P38's. I understand there may be a 31mm diameter and am not even sure what the other(s) may be (if at all)?

I have done a search here and nothing specific is coming up. I have also checked Rave and LR parts cat. I have and it only shows one part but with no spec. I do not have a micrometer or accurate measuring device to check mine on the pig.

I am guessing that there is actually only one... and that the variances may apply to other LR models like Disco's perhaps. Anyway, I really want to confirm the diameter(s) either way. Can someone physically check theirs for me please? Or, does someone already know the sizes and model years the supposed variants may apply to?

Regards, Dave.

P.S. I have put orders on hold for the moment until I can be clear and certain of who needs what.

[p38arover]

I have a vernier callipers and micrometers. I'll go and check mine now.......



...... 32mm. Mine is a '95 model.

[Hoges]

MY99 (Bosch upgrade) 4.6 Roll bar: 32mm also (well 31.3mm -31.6mm :p)
cheers

[isuzurover]

Original (LR) items are a lot more expensive. These are OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer.

They are coming through a very reputable well established LR parts supplier in Melbourne.

Hmm - FWIW, I bought "OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer" bushes for my 110 from a very reputable supplier. The first one failed after ~1000 km of the CSR, the rest were fubar by the time I got back home. That was what made me go all super-pro.

Radius arm bush with <1000 road km and <1000 km of the CSR on it:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Trailing arm bush (<10000 km):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/256.jpg

Feel free to PM me your email if you want more details.

[p38arover]

MY99 (Bosch upgrade) 4.6 Roll bar: 32mm also (well 31.3mm -31.6mm :p)
cheers

Ah, I can see the quality fell with later cars.

I measured with vernier callipers at exactly 32mm near the bushes.

[LavisLane]

Dang it!

I'm having second thoughts about the OEM rubbers now...

[Hoges]

Hmm - FWIW, I bought "OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer" bushes for my 110 from a very reputable supplier. The first one failed after ~1000 km of the CSR, the rest were fubar by the time I got back home. That was what made me go all super-pro.

Radius arm bush with <1000 road km and <1000 km of the CSR on it:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Trailing arm bush (<10000 km):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/256.jpg

Feel free to PM me your email if you want more details.

The rear bush in the top photo which goes on the pin end of the radius arm doesn't look real flash but the lower photo with the cracked bush indicates a somewhat different design from that used on the P38

[isuzurover]

The rear bush in the top photo which goes on the pin end of the radius arm doesn't look real flash but the lower photo with the cracked bush indicates a somewhat different design from that used on the P38

I am not for a minute trying to say they are the same as P38 bushes in design, just that they were bought from a very reputable supplier and "OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer"

[Hoges]

I am not for a minute trying to say they are the same as P38 bushes in design, just that they were bought from a very reputable supplier and "OEM standard, made to the original standard by the Original Equipment Manufacturer"

Yep, understand that, my fault for not being clearer. The design issue appears to be a factor here re. the ability of the bush to withstand the rigorous forces to which it is exposed. The photo provided shows what appears to be a crack in the outer casing of the bush. That casing is not exposed in the P38 as it appears to be in the Defender design, but rather is compressed and pressed into the eye of the trailing arm where it is fully "enclosed". Thus any cracking of the outer casing is possibly less likely to be as 'catastrophic' as that illustrated by the design on the Defender...

It's not necessarily a black mark against OEM stuff...how long did the originals last? In other fora the comment is sometimes made that when it comes to rubber bushes...spend the $$$ and buy genuine parts.

[isuzurover]

...

It's not necessarily a black mark against OEM stuff...how long did the originals last? In other fora the comment is sometimes made that when it comes to rubber bushes...spend the $$$ and buy genuine parts.

The originals had done >200k km. However I have been told by people in the rubber industry that rubber formulations have changed in recent years. So comparing the longevity of original fitment bushes on older vehicles against new rubber bushes may not be possible/appropriate.

Either way, I am 100% happy with SuperPro and doubt I could ever be convinced to go back to rubber.

[DT-P38]

Stay calm people. Thats great feedback there... although your timing is ****ty! We would rather know now than too late though. Can you PM me the brand name so I can be sure we don't end up with them.

I think I am starting to understand why we don't see too many group buys happening through this forum!

In saying that, any one interested in P38 discreet winch mounts and rock sliders? The bushes process has at least forced me to get a final result on an outstanding job!

[ytt105]

Sounds good. I certainly don't need no silly paint!!!

I think I've got some Duck Egg Blue left over from the toilet walls I could use. HaHa

[Hoges]

Sounds good. I certainly don't need no silly paint!!!

I think I've got some Duck Egg Blue left over from the toilet walls I could use. HaHa

now that's a coincidence... MB have a metallic colour of that hue ...saw one this morning. Driver fitted the demographic:angel: :wasntme:

[DT-P38]

Stay calm people. Thats great feedback there... although your timing is ****ty! We would rather know now than too late though. Can you PM me the brand name so I can be sure we don't end up with them.

I think I am starting to understand why we don't see too many group buys happening through this forum!

In saying that, any one interested in P38 discreet winch mounts and rock sliders? The bushes process has at least forced me to get a final result on an outstanding job!


I never got a brand name for the bushes. If you PM me your email address - or shoot me an email ( b.mullins@curtin.edu.au ) I can forward you my email exchange with Warren the manager of MR Automotive, who I bought the bushes from.

This is the only identfying mark on the bushes:
http://s124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/Canning_Stock_Route_2010/?action=view&current=CanningTrip2010728.jpg

Hey there isuzurover,

Got your PM but could not reply to it as you are over your quota and cant receive more with out clearing out some old ones.

Anyway, I have a temp. email going at the moment dave@hardrange.com if you could send any info to there it would be appreciated Perhaps you could also ask Warren what the brand or who the manufacturer was. Alternatively I can chase that up myself which might help him understand bad experiences of bad product affect future sales... Even if it's for someone else on the other side of the country!!!

[BusinessConnected]

Just seen this thread now...
Interested in

1) SuperPro Kit
2) Winch Mount (Assuming it'll work with Factory Wrap Around Bull Bar)
3) Rock Sliders Depending on Price...

[DT-P38]

Just seen this thread now...
Interested in

1) SuperPro Kit
2) Winch Mount (Assuming it'll work with Factory Wrap Around Bull Bar)
3) Rock Sliders Depending on Price...

No prob's, I can still modify the order to add you for a SuperPro kit and just keep your eyes here for the other two when this one is sorted... will PM you to clarify $'s and account details for payment.

[Hoges]

Thanks Dave.

I called into Ricks 4 x 4 at Nerang on the way home today and they said they will be happy to fit them next Tuesday, so will see how we go. If there is an issue I will contact you to order "easy fit" bushes.

Hoges look forward to hearing how you go.

Thanks both

I'd bought a set of OEM spec rear bushes about 2 yrs ago but hadn't been game to "have a go" until now...

SO:

Dropped both trailing arms on the w/e and drilled out the two "rivets" which attach the composite arm to the bush housing (there was a clunking noise which is due to the rivet type fixings stretching).

The bush housing is a 10mm thick aluminium extrusion.

I cleaned it up then pressed the bush out using a large socket I borrowed (a 3/4" drive type) and a 12T $160 press ....

To replace the bushes I carefully chamfered (3mm) them using a fine wheel on the 6" bench grinder;) I also cut a 2mm chamfer using a Dremel on the bush housing.

I then heated the bush housing to about 90-100 deg C (as per thermocouple on the multimeter :D) with an electric heat gun and , wearing welding gloves held bush/housing together while I "tapped" the lubricated (Lanoline grease) bush into place around the edges with a rubber mallet to get it started "square" in the bore of the housing.

I then placed the large socket over the bush and bit by bit forced it home with the press.

The whole job took about 10 minutes for each bush.

I'm amazed at the compression: The bush was 1.67mm wider than the housing. The lanoline lube worked very well.

I honed the bolt holes in the bush housing and composite arm slightly (there was only a couple of thou in it) with a 3/8" drill so they would accept a M 10 bolt.

I'll replace the rivet fixings with M10 10.9 grade coarse thread 70mm bolts plus thread locker and a nyloc nut to 55 ft lbs. (which is about 80% of their yield strength) Bolts to be threaded through from the top.

More later

[glenhendry]

Fantastic Hoges. Good description. Make sure you drop me a line next time you are doing a major task and Ill come and help/heckle. I hope you have eliminated the clunk too, I am after that same fix very soon!

[DT-P38]

I'd bought a set of OEM spec rear bushes about 2 yrs ago but hadn't been game to "have a go" until now...

SO:

Dropped both trailing arms on the w/e and drilled out the two "rivets" which attach the composite arm to the bush housing (there was a clunking noise which is due to the rivet type fixings stretching).

The bush housing is a 10mm thick aluminium extrusion.

I cleaned it up then pressed the bush out using a large socket I borrowed (a 3/4" drive type) and a 12T $160 press ....

To replace the bushes I carefully chamfered (3mm) them using a fine wheel on the 6" bench grinder;) I also cut a 2mm chamfer using a Dremel on the bush housing.

I then heated the bush housing to about 90-100 deg C (as per thermocouple on the multimeter :D) with an electric heat gun and , wearing welding gloves held bush/housing together while I "tapped" the lubricated (Lanoline grease) bush into place around the edges with a rubber mallet to get it started "square" in the bore of the housing.

I then placed the large socket over the bush and bit by bit forced it home with the press.

The whole job took about 10 minutes for each bush.

I'm amazed at the compression: The bush was 1.67mm wider than the housing. The lanoline lube worked very well.

I honed the bolt holes in the bush housing and composite arm slightly (there was only a couple of thou in it) with a 3/8" drill so they would accept a M 10 bolt.

I'll replace the rivet fixings with M10 10.8 grade coarse thread 70mm bolts plus thread locker and a nyloc nut to 55 ft lbs. (which is about 80% of their yield strength) Bolts to be threaded through from the top.

More later

That sounds pretty easy Hoges. I just don't have a bench grinder or 12 ton press avail in shed as yet... Do you reckon it's DIY-able without those?

Grinder will come one day but I doubt I could ever justify a press. Did you hire one somewhere?

[Hoges]

That sounds pretty easy Hoges. I just don't have a bench grinder or 12 ton press avail in shed as yet... Do you reckon it's DIY-able without those?

Grinder will come one day but I doubt I could ever justify a press. Did you hire one somewhere?

You could put a chamfer on the bush fairly quickly and accurately with a flat file (I was lazy..hence the bench grinder).

You need a sizeable force to expel / replace the bushes from the housing. If you had the correct size 'cups' I imagine it would be possible to draw the bush through the housing using high tensile threaded rod with a couple of captive nuts .

The critical factor is to ensure that the push/pull force on the bush is acting only on the (very) thin outer casing which, when subjected to a compression force while in a closely confined space (i.e. inside the housing) is very strong.

The precison of all this is critical... you are working with tolerances of between 5-10 thou of an inch.

This is an example of the press TradeTools - SP05301-TT 20 TONNE SHOP PRESS (http://www.tradetools.com/products/SP05301)
Mine is a 12T jobbie which was on special for about $168... It's come in useful for all sorts of handy applications...including pressing out the bearing etc when I had to replace the viscous coupling in the transfer case.

Have a look at this

SPX Catalog - Front (http://www.spxtools-shop.com/jlr/index.php?cat=c17043_Front.html)

tool 204-496... there's a similar, but separate one, for the rear bushing. They certainly would take a lot of effort out of the job..

I've sometimes thought that if we got our act together, a communal kit of specialist tools would be ideal for the P38 brigade! I need to think further on this. I know of a couple of blokes with an obsession for earlier Peugeot marques :eek: who seem to do this successfully.

[DT-P38]

Agree with the kit... at least in each capital city. Have theorised about a shared Fault-mate before but it sort of got shot down.

I am also trying to build an "on hand" inventory of common problem swap out parts. Things like a rebuilt compressor, rebuilt valve block, MAF, crank angle sensor, fuse box, etc. Stuff that can be swapped out to get someone out of trouble or to help eliminate a known common issue prior to visiting a LR garage.

[LavisLane]

Agree with the kit... at least in each capital city. Have theorised about a shared Fault-mate before but it sort of got shot down.

I am also trying to build an "on hand" inventory of common problem swap out parts. Things like a rebuilt compressor, rebuilt valve block, MAF, crank angle sensor, fuse box, etc. Stuff that can be swapped out to get someone out of trouble or to help eliminate a known common issue prior to visiting a LR garage.

Id certainly chip in for a "P38 First Aid Kit" that we all manage.

[benji]

I think this will work better for some than others; still an awesome and worthwhile idea, please don't get me wrong!

We do a fair amount of semi-remote touring with the family and Scouts, so I will be having my own Nano-com and kit with me.

However, to start things off, I'm in Bendigo, by June i'll have a valve block, driver, pump, orings, and a classic eas ecu (I assume it will work), and a nanocom for anyone who needs them around central Vic. The nanocom i'm not willing to mail out though.

[DT-P38]

Hello again,

Just a quick update on the bushes orders.

Orders are locked in and we are just waiting on a few parts to be procured as suppliers generally don't sit on too much P38 stock. I am pretty confident all will be available for pick up in both Melbourne and Brisbane by the close of this week. Glen, I will PM you details for Brisbane if you are still OK to help?

Once stock is in hand we will work out delivery via the AULRO Courier Service or direct post if you wish to pay for your stuff to come directly to you ASAP.

Thanks to all who have paid up promptly, those that are outstanding I have sent reminders, please act or communicate when you can.

Thanks, Dave.

P.S. Ron, could you please split out from this thread those posts relating to "AULRO-ian P38a support tools and parts kit". It seems we can benefit from a bit more discussion (& planning) on that front too!

[DT-P38]

Well the kits are all finally in our posession.

I have all the rubber stuff on hand in Melbourne and GlenHendry has all the PU bits in Brisbane!

It seems that the pricing may have worked out better than I thought too, so some partial refunds could be coming soon... will let you know.

The Courier service has no-one travelling listed now, but I will sort out a post soon so we are at least visible to those members getting around the south-eastern corner.

[Hoges]

PM sent re. Courier opportunity Bris<-> Melb

[LavisLane]

Hey all,

I received my bushing kit in time for an Easter trip. A massive thanks to Dave and Glen for your help in getting it to me :)

I didn't have time to install myself so passed it on to Graeme Cooper. They installed the lot at a cost of $420 inc gst - so, around $680 all done by my numbers. Definitely better than the $1500 that Pedders had quoted me!

Image attached of the kit minus the radius arms for anyone interested.

Thanks again to all involved.

Dave

[DT-P38]

Hi all,

Just a quick note to let you know that with the help of GlenHendry, Hoges and his son, I have finally gotten all the bushing kit components and invoices together and checked it all.

A big bonus is that there will be a $99 refund to all those who ordered the "Offer 3. OEM Rubber and PU... Kit" as the costs only added to $149 for that kit. Note: "Offer 1. The complete SuperPro kit" price stayed at $336 each.

As a result, I had an idea that some of you may like me to use part of the refund to AUSpost your kits directly to you... for those in Melbourne, don't bother, I will be able to drop them off to you. And Glen, I will give yours to Mick to bring back up in a week or so.

Anyway, can everyone that did order Offer 3 please now provide via PM:

- BSB and Account details for refund;
- Standard, Express post or hold for free AULRO courier when possible;
- Delivery address details.

I will complete the refund ASAP, then pack and send as specified.

[glenhendry]

Maybe you can keep my $99 and order me the 1" lift body rubber kit? :) If you are getting some that is?

Edit:
On second thoughts, given the potential troubles lifting the body, maybe its best to use the money for Gen III airbags...

[DT-P38]

Maybe you can keep my $99 and order me the 1" lift body rubber kit? :) If you are getting some that is?

Edit:
On second thoughts, given the potential troubles lifting the body, maybe its best to use the money for Gen III airbags...

No prob's Glen, I will refund as per your PM.

It does remind me to get my one of the body lift kits ordered though. Will start another post regards a group buy soon.

Dave

[glenhendry]

Hey all,

I received my bushing kit in time for an Easter trip. A massive thanks to Dave and Glen for your help in getting it to me :)

I didn't have time to install myself so passed it on to Graeme Cooper. They installed the lot at a cost of $420 inc gst - so, around $680 all done by my numbers. Definitely better than the $1500 that Pedders had quoted me!
Thanks again to all involved.

Dave

Notice any difference with the new bushes in? Quieter, firmer, less rattly?

[DT-P38]

Here is the missing bit from LavisLane (Dave's) earlier photo. The radius arm PU bushes.

[p38arover]

I received mine today. Thanks Dave.

When I put them in the garage, I found the bag with the bushes I bought some years ago but never got around to fitting. I now have two sets! :D

[DT-P38]

Now all you need is another P38 Ron! There is a '99 (Thor, but pre light upgrade) down here going cheap!

[DT-P38]

I found the bag with the bushes I bought some years ago but never got around to fitting. I now have two sets! :D

If you want to return that extra set we just got you Ron, I can buy them back from you at the same price. Have a late buyer if you are happy to do this.

[TheTree]

Hi

Resurrecting an old thread here, I was wondering what the feedback on the SuperPro bush kits is?

Steve

[benji]

Also did anyone end up fitting the 1 inch body lift?

Lifting the fuel tank by an inch would be very helpfull - other issues with a body lift too of course.

[FANTOM P38]

Well i've been a bit slack or too busy depending on how you[I] look at it.
Still have the complete bush kit in shed waiting till I order upper/lower ball joints & tie rods to go with the new track & drag rods & then plan to do the lot at once & get a wheel alignment of course then I can advise how it all goes.

[redandy3575]

Well i've been a bit slack or too busy depending on h[I]ow you look at it.
Still have the complete bush kit in shed waiting till I order upper/lower ball joints & tie rods to go with the new track & drag rods & then plan to do the lot at once & get a wheel alignment of course then I can advise how it all goes.

Same here, have still got mine in the shed.

[rc42]

Is there a good place in Australia to get the SuperPro kit or is it still cheaper to get them shipped from the UK?

I think my OEM rubber bushes in my P38 are at or even past end of life.

[Vern]

UK is cheaper

[TheTree]

Hi

Yes I noticed the Aussie price is around $500.00 and Paddocks is £189.00 so under $400.00 landed from the UK

Steve

[p38arover]

I haven't fitted mine, either.

[Hoges]

I replaced the rears with OEM rubber ones. The fronts are still to be done.

However, the new D697 (245/70/16 AT) LT construction tyres I pick up on Monday have transformed the ride... where previously running over cats eyes reflectors caused an uncomfortable bump, they are now barely noticeable... I'll enjoy the ride while it lasts...;)

[DT-P38]

Try Rob Mills at Ringwood auto parts.

(03) 9714 8196 OR, 0408 104 894

rob@ringwoodautoparts.com.au

He will generally do full kits cheaper than UK suppliers. Let him know you got referred to him from AULRO. If freight becomes a big factor I can pick up and hold for you until you can organise delivery via AULRO Courier Service.

What a dumb country we live in when its harder to buy a locally made (Fulcrum in QLD) product for a good price here than on the other side of the world. When we did the group buy, we got a good price from the factory but we (fellow forumites) took care of freight and ordered a reasonable size batch to help them still break even. Apparently its our government subsidising the export manufacturer to get their stuff out below cost. Sort of like what China does on everything they produce and export.

You gotta love it when your own tax dollars work against you hey?

[Hoges]

BUMP!!:D

Small drama...haven't driven beloved P38 for 5 months!!:( Illness, lots of other things happening and sloppy steering which I traced to wonky front radius arm bushes ... had the bushes (for 3 yrs at least...sound familiar?), but no special tool to do the job... all that changed earlier this week...

P38 radius arm bushes DIY Replacement "Mission Impossible"

The following post details a method of replacing the standard OEM bushes in a P38 radius arm. The method applies to both front and rear arms.

The "correct" way to replace the bushes is to use a tool designated LRT-60-004. It is in three parts and consist of a cylinder with a slight conical shape plus two "pistons" each with a centred rod to hold the bush. In a press the bush drives squarely through the cylinder where it is compressed sufficiently to transition easily into the register of the radius arm. see LRT-60-004 | Bush Fitting Tool | Bushes | Britpart (http://www.britpart.com/parts/suspension-and-axle/bushes/bush-fitting-tool/lrt60004/) for illustration

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99381&stc=1&d=1442319590

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99378&stc=1&d=1442318443


LRT-60-004 is difficult to source, (I could find no supplier in Aus.) with prices varying between GBP50 (Brookwells UK) and 120 (other LR parts places) plus freight. A new standard bush has a plastic shell encasing the rubber bush. The diameter is 62.36mm +/- 0.51mm (average of 4 bushes). The plastic shell is between 2mm and 3mm thick. The diameter of the bush register in the radius arm is between 58.40mm +/- 0.30mm. So the bush has to be uniformly compressed a tad over 4mm without distortion or damage to the shell.

With the LRT-60-004 it should be a 10 min job to push out the old and replace the new bushes in each front arm and 5 mins for each rear arm excluding removal and replacement time of the arm itself.

I phoned five Land rover workshops in Brisbane earlier this week. None would admit to having ever replaced a P38 radius arm bush! One workshop (independent) "sort of" agreed they "might" be able to do it but the minute I said I had new bushes the tone became distinctly unfriendly despite have spent hundreds of dollars there over the past couple of years. Those in Bris who travel airport drive may have noticed the very large sign announcing a new independent LR workshop. I rang them as well and was promptly told that my vehicle was "too old" and they wouldn't have the tools for it anyway!!! The Redcliffe (MRA) crew were most courteous, very helpful and thought they might be able to assist but the chap I spoke to couldn't recall ever having to replace a set. D2s yes, P38s nah. Green Oval Inc. in Fortitude Valley said bluntly they weren't interested unless they could do the whole job on a drive in drive out basis (min $400+).

Superpro quoted me $235.72 incl GST to supply 4 bushes and four tubes to do the front arms (kit SPF1809K)?and they had only one left in the warehouse... (which means that those who got the kits a while back did extremely well pricewise.;)) This news on the phone resulted in me having
an immediate "philosophical moment" given that it's cheaper to buy stuff exported to the UK, from the UK than buy local AND I could import the damned LR tool for less than the cost of a set of Superpro bushes and if I included a full set of genuine bushes, it would almost be the same price?

Did I mention at this stage that I had already blithely pressed out the originals!?:angel::wasntme:

But as you all know, some things you just can't leave well enough alone. To say I was "snakes" (hissed) is an understatement?

So I went and made a cup of coffee and re-read my "advice" to others on this issue some two years ago. While I had successfully changed out the rears, the fronts were diabolical! I had borrowed a set of ball joint cups etc and I have a 12T Supercheap $168 press! no go. Couldn't keep the damned thing straight, it kept going off-centre etc etc, ballooning the shell and I was worried about ruining the bush. Then a little "miracle' happened.. I read a vague 2010 post on RR.net relating to this matter and there was a step I had forgotten?

So here is a method, it works splendidly and I was able to press all 4 bushes into place in about 30 mins without damaging them.

Preparing the Bush: A 120mm M12 bolt with decent spring washer is placed through the bush. The threaded end of the bolt is placed into a 13mm chuck on a bench press drill, carefully centred then pressed down to compress the spring washer. Then the chuck tightened. This jams the bush between the spring washer and the bottom of the chuck. Turn on drill (400 rpm) to ensure the bush is spinning evenly without too much (less than 3mm) runout and using a rasp, carefully fashion a 6mm rounded chamfer on one end of the bush. Repeat for all 4 bushes. (pic shows "practice run" on used bush)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/177.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/178.jpg

[Hoges]

Preparing the Radius Arm: Using a Dremel with an "orange" grinding stone, fashion a "rounded" 3mm chamfer on one face of each of the registers in the radius arms.

With the radius arm firmly wedged in a vyse, bits and pieces from the ball joint kit, the bush plus a nut (18mm spanner size), large washers are assembled "kebab" style on 12mm (high tensile) threaded rod and passed through the register and held captive at the other end with another nut/washer and end piece from the ball joint kit which is almost a perfect fit in the radius arm .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1.jpg

The inside of the radius arm bush register, the bush itself and the threaded rod are lubed (I used Lanoline grease). A large jubilee clip is tightened around the bush about 2cm from the radius arm register. Tight enough to be "firm" but not enough to overly compress the plastic shell. The jubilee clip has three purposes i) to provide support against the tendency of the shell to "balloon" under pressure, ii) to act as a gauge to determine if the bush is moving squarely and iii) if the bush gets a bit off track the part of the jubilee clip which touches the side of the radius arm first, will stop that section of the bush proceeding and cause the bush to straighten up!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/2.jpg

Then it was time to tighten the nuts! I'd tried this before and it was a complete failure! the "miracle" was the small chamfer on the radius arm register - with a bit of effort, the bush began to slide in ! Moved the jubilee clip further back as the bush went in until it reached about 1/2 way. Repeated the process on the second bush and then transferred the whole lot to the press. I possibly could, with a piece of pipe over the ring spanner for leverage, have wound the whole thing home without the need for a hydraulic press - but I didn't have a piece of pipe handy and I don't have that strength anymore to use the spanners by themselves:(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/3.jpg

SWMBO being the good sport she always is, was happy to exercise the jack handle of the press while I held the radius arm level - it is quite heavy when you don't have at least three hands! The press made short work of the remainder and the bush slid smoothly into place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/4.jpg

I doubt I'll be needing the LRT-60-004 - but it would be nice to have!!

[glenhendry]

What an excellent guide. Well done.

Hey, that reminds me, I happen to have new bushes to put in. What do you think my chances are of honing your recently acquired skills if I bring some beers and the removed radius arms ;)

[Hoges]

I'll call you... ;):D

[rc42]

I removed the failing originals and fitted a full set of SuperPro bushes last year with no special tools and the P38 parked on a fairly level driveway.

The rear radius arms are a bit awkward to re-align to get the bolts back in but the front arms take the longest to do.
Bush removal was with a drill to take out the rubber and a hacksaw blade to join the drill holes together and allow the center tube to be hit out with a small hammer.
The outer steel tube needed careful use of a hacksaw to cut through it without damaging the raduis arm and a chisel was needed to create the final split in the bush outer to get it out.

Fitting the Superpro bushes needed a long bolt and two metal plates (working as giant washers on the bolt). Winding the nut down on the bolt compresses the bush into place, the distortion on the bush before it pops in is amazing, how they don't split is beyond me but if you use lots of the grease and hold your nerve they will go into place.

Without doubt the SuperPro bushes are the best ride and handling improvement I've ever done on the P38, well worth the cost and time.

[TheTree]

I have a set on the way to fit to the Phoenix, glad to hear they live up to expectations!

Steve

[Hoges]

I removed the failing originals and fitted a full set of SuperPro bushes last year with no special tools and the P38 parked on a fairly level driveway.

The rear radius arms are a bit awkward to re-align to get the bolts back in but the front arms take the longest to do.
Bush removal was with a drill to take out the rubber and a hacksaw blade to join the drill holes together and allow the center tube to be hit out with a small hammer.
The outer steel tube needed careful use of a hacksaw to cut through it without damaging the raduis arm and a chisel was needed to create the final split in the bush outer to get it out.

Fitting the Superpro bushes needed a long bolt and two metal plates (working as giant washers on the bolt). Winding the nut down on the bolt compresses the bush into place, the distortion on the bush before it pops in is amazing, how they don't split is beyond me but if you use lots of the grease and hold your nerve they will go into place.

Without doubt the SuperPro bushes are the best ride and handling improvement I've ever done on the P38, well worth the cost and time.

It's interesting that your (presumably) original bushings had outer metal sleeves ...all those in mine (July1999 build) had 'plastic' outer sleeves.
cheers

[glenhendry]

New super pro bushes are in my front radius arms. And rubber rear mounts on the front arms. See pic. Old rubber mounts were very compressed compared to the new ones. Old bushes looked very old and perished.

I showed up at Hoges', hat in hand, and the whole job was done (4 old bushes pressed out, and new bushes pressed in, coffee and fruit bread) in under 3 hrs. With plenty of banter in between. The arms were already off. The 20 tonne press made light work of pressing out the old ones, with no penetrating oil needed.

We used the vice to hold the arm, and the high tensile threaded rod with an assortment of washers and other plates and all were in. The first one took us 45 mins, because we were super careful and were worried the nolathane lip was going to tear off as it slid in, but after we just pushed it harder it popped in easily and the final 3 went in in less than 15 minutes. Awesome fun too. I haven't installed them on the Rangey yet. Report soon.

[TheTree]

My SuperPro kit is on the way, looks like it's not a super hard job

Steve

[glenhendry]

I planned to get my rear radius arms done today, I pulled the rear radius arms off, and tried to fit the bushes from the kit we bought but it looks like I am missing the SuperPro kit for the rear radius arms.

The front radius arm kit is SPF1809K. I used that for the front, and I thought it was the same for the rear radius arm (since I had two of those kits), but it is not. Rear kit is SPF1805K (as per SuperPro Suspension Parts | Poly Bushings | Suspension Bushes | Sway Bar Bushing Kits | Biggest range of polyurethane suspension parts, bushings and bushes including swaybar and sway bar kits manufactured in Australia. (http://www.superpro.com.au/?v=land-rover-range-rover-lp,-p38a---1994-2002/999501361)).

Did I get 2xfronts instead of a rear? Has anyone ended up with two rears? :)

[p38arover]

I can have a look, I've never fitted my set.

See also http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/144329-suspension-bushing-kits-post1683287.html?highlight=P38arover#post1676244

I just had a look, it's so long ago I don't know what I ordered and received but all I have is one bag labelled SPF1809K. I'll have to read all this thread to check.

[TheTree]

I can look when I get back home, still have the rear ones on the shelf

Steve

[FANTOM P38]

Hi guys this is what I received in my kit

[TheTree]

I bought the kit and have done my front, what I have left to do the rear is

SPF1803K bush kit
and
SPF1805K Trailing arm front bush kit

Steve

[glenhendry]

Looks like I need to buy an SPF1805K (rear trailing arm front bush) kit from bursons for $140.

Anybody want to buy my spare SPF1809K (front trailing arm diff bushes) kit from me? :) Bursons say it retails for $218, but I will sell mine unused to AURLO member for $150.

[DT-P38]

Looks like I need to buy an SPF1805K (rear trailing arm front bush) kit from bursons for $140.

Anybody want to buy my spare SPF1809K (front trailing arm diff bushes) kit from me? :) Bursons say it retails for $218, but I will sell mine unused to AURLO member for $150.

Hi Glenn,

I am not certain, but I think I remember you put the QLD ones aside and kept them before sending the rest down here courtesy of Scouse's son... is it possible one of the other QLD'ers got 2 of the one your missing and are still without the one you have two of?

Hoo-Roo, Dave.