Found Oil in LPG converter???

[Vorlon]

Hi
I had a look at my LPG gas converter while looking for a problem on my D1 of it not idling and I found that it had a brown/ red oil dripping out of it, I pulled it apart and found the oil had gotten into each side of the converter as well.
Is this normal if not where's it coming from.
It's an Impco
Cheers

[Mick_Marsh]

Yep.
Normal.
Happened to me.
Comes from the gas.

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Hi, the sticky substance is what's known as heavy ends, when cold its like a tarry vegemite . A by-product of LPG
some convertors may have a drain grub screw, well in the early days did any way.
I re- kitted a B2 many years ago as the diaphram was totally stuck with the stuff.
Natural gas stoves also stain pots and pans, that's what that brown stain is that develops under them.

[Vorlon]

So it is normal, ok
So where else to look, after a Big front fire it won't idle in drive and and after hunting a bit it dies.
Can you guys tell me what I should start to check because it was running great before this.
Also the day before this happened I did the Bee Utey bosch ignition mod, which worked really well.
Cheers

[bee utey]

Goop in gas converters is normal, most converters run for years like that. A kit through a converter and a clean up once every 100K is no mistake.

The poor idling is more likely to be a cause of a mixture change due to either air leaks, gas vapour hose perishing/cracking, or diaphragm stiffness/splitting/old age in the mixer head. There will be an idle mixture screw on the mixer, ususally with a spring on a slot head screw. This is where you start with idling problems on Impcos. Converters usually run OK or fail spectacularly, IE dump all their gas all at once when the regulator section fails.

[Vorlon]

That idle screw was the first thing I did and it made no noticeable differance, all the way in and out.
Cheers

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

When you say you had a big fire, do you mean a big Back Fire???
Does it run ok on Petrol?

Check for hoses that might have blown off
check the 2 hoses behind the plenum.
There is a thick hose that runs from the rear of the plenum and connects to the throttle intake. is not blown off
Also have a look at the drivers side rear where the IAC ( Stepper motor) is located, feel behind the rear of the engine there, there is a 1/4'' hose that connects to a plate see that each end is connected.
If these hoses are off and sucking air it will run like crap.
If the problem is also on petrol and it won't run correctly then maybe your maf sustained damage from a back fire

[Vorlon]

Hi
It was a bang out of the air filter, I know cause my head was under the bonnet at the time.
All hoses are on.
I haven't had a working MAF since I owned it, yes it don't run that good on fuel.
Could it be the TPS or IAC valve? How do I check them?
I have new plugs leads and dizzy cap put them in last week and it was running very smooth.
Cheers

[DBKDISCO]

Hi,

The black goo is residue, which is not a by product from the LPG but from the rubber hoses that are used from the tank upto the engine bay,

check google the W.A government has clamped down on the amount of rubber hose that can be used in aftermarket kits and gives a good explanation of the problem and solution.

when the residue comes from the LPG then there is a wide spread problem like there was about 2 years ago with Shell in Victoria.

[bee utey]

Hi,

The black goo is residue, which is not a by product from the LPG but from the rubber hoses that are used from the tank upto the engine bay,

check google the W.A government has clamped down on the amount of rubber hose that can be used in aftermarket kits and gives a good explanation of the problem and solution.

when the residue comes from the LPG then there is a wide spread problem like there was about 2 years ago with Shell in Victoria.

Many vehicles I have come across have sticky deposits in then without one millimetre of rubber hose in the system. Others with a full length run of rubber remain trouble free and clean. Newer rubber hoses (since ca. 2006?) are fitted with an internal barrier so can't be blamed in any case. I think the issue is more likely chemicals resembling plasticisers from elsewhere in the production process. Oil companies aren't willing to take the blame as a rule.

[Vorlon]

I think I found my problem.
After changing, cleaning just about everything I could I find I removed the IAC again and it had the remnants of the old gasket, washer stuck to the plenum, so I scraped it of and tightened it again and everything now works( sort of). It's amazing how something so minuscule could cause everything to run ****e, so thanks for all the help guys.
Ps.
One thing I noticed when I had the dissy cap of was the rotor button
can turn freely left and right about a half inch this ain't right is it?
Also i can blow and suck really easy down the rubber hose into the vacuume advance on the side of the dissy, I thought there should be some resistance.
One more thing is that the idle screw on the gas thingy does nothing at all, shouldn't it have something to do?
Thanks again

[bee utey]

Your distributor needs an overhaul. New vacuum advance capsule from Advanced Diaphragm Options

Advance Diaphragm Options (http://www.advancediaphragmoptions.com/contactus.html)

or

Performance ignitions, Nunawading Vic

Tips on dismantling and repair here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/116123-lucas-v8-dissy-nylon-clip-repair-method.html

Idle mixture (on most Impco mixers) works on an air bypass, once it is above a certain size it makes little difference. Wind it all the way in, should make it run rich. Otherwise get an overhaul kit for the mixer, it may need a new diaphragm as said before. It may also have a warped body from backfiring.

[Vorlon]

Thanks for your help,
I changed the dissy and advance but still have a problem, when i adjust the dissy left or right i cant get the idle above 1100 revs, it should go higher than that i think, because when I put it in to drive and put the air con on it drops about 700 revs and nearly stalls.
Next prob is that when I put the acceleror down just a bit while in drive it coughs and splutters on gas or petrol, ive still got plenty of go when I put my foot down though but even then it feels like it looses power just a bit ever few seconds.
Thanks

[bee utey]

Your distributor may be one tooth out on the drive gear. You will need to rotate the oil pump drive shaft slightly for the distributor to go back all the way in after rotating the dissy shaft 1 tooth clockwise.

You really should use a timing light to set the timing at idle to 10 degrees BTDC. Then you can test for vacuum and mechanical advance at the same time.

[Vorlon]

Hey
Timing was and is 10.
Idle revs are now bout 1500 from 1000 yesterday don't know why the change.
When I put it into drive with the handbrake on it revs bout 700, then I will accelerate slightly upto about 1100 /1300 it starts to die then hunt continually.
I don't know why, it goes like a rocket when you put your foot down and idle is ok it's that spot in the middle where it runs crap, on petrol and LPG.
Cheers

[bee utey]

Hey
Timing was and is 10.
Idle revs are now bout 1500 from 1000 yesterday don't know why the change.
When I put it into drive with the handbrake on it revs bout 700, then I will accelerate slightly upto about 1100 /1300 it starts to die then hunt continually.
I don't know why, it goes like a rocket when you put your foot down and idle is ok it's that spot in the middle where it runs crap, on petrol and LPG.
Cheers

I suggest you try another rotor button. Yours may be travelling too far away from the dissy terminal if it is loose. There is a Ford one that works very well, part number GB864, much cheaper than OEM, has a wider electrode, good quality.

[Vorlon]

Hey
I did try that rotor on Sunday past after seeing it posted elsewhere as a possible solution.
First that rotor was a very tight fit on the post and under the cap and
The results were Mega back/front fires and smoke coming out of the air filter.
So that don't work for me.
Things I have changed to try to fix my prob is new leads, plugs with gaps of .711
New Bosch dissy cap but I changed back to the original Lucas because it ran better, distributor and advance, tps, iac air hoses and made sure there were no leaks around the plenum.
Something I noticed when I had the plenum off is that 4 of the pipes where loose and had lifted up out of there holes, could this be a problem?
Thanks

[bee utey]

Something I noticed when I had the plenum off is that 4 of the pipes where loose and had lifted up out of there holes, could this be a problem?
Thanks

Dunno about making it run badly but they can really rattle under power. I expand them slightly and set them in loctite retaining compound.

You haven't indicated if you fixed/checked the mechanical advance. Check that the rotor button is pointing exactly at a cylinder lead when the pickup under the plastic cover is lined up with a tooth on the star wheel. It sounds like its waaay out by the fact the Ford rotor didn't work. Perhaps it's time to scare up another working dissy.

[Vorlon]

Yep, just double checked that and it's right.
I'm going to put the original coil and connections back
because that's when all this all started, unless you have
something Else to try?
Thanks