2.7 Vs 3.0 TDV6 is it worth the extra$ ?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Am currently in the decision mode re purchase of a D4. Not that I particularly want a D4 but AFAIK it's the only Land Rover that has enough height in the luggage area and will still lower to a seat height for elderly parents.

Firstly, is the $15K difference for 300cc of extra empty space inside the diesel engine worth the expense?

After that, are there any options that are a must and others that people wouldn't get next time?

I don't want glass roofs side steps etc, but would consider options for navigation and occasional off road.

[mowog]

If you never drive a 3.0L D4 then it shouldn't matter.

But if you drive both the choice will be very easy you will the pay extra.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

If you never drive a 3.0L D4 then it shouldn't matter.

But if you drive both the choice will be very easy you will the pay extra.So it's caveat emptor, driving a 3.0 TDV6 could be hazardous to your wallet! :o

Thanks! :D

[Disco4SE]

Hi Lotz-A-Landies,
I had the 2.7Lt in the D3, now the. 3.0Lt in the D4. Would never go back to the 2.7Lt.
Having said this, you don't miss what you haven't got.

Extras I would not do without:-
Rear air & e diff.

Cheers, Craig

[101RRS]

Of course you can get a 2.7 and then get a $1000 BAS program for it - similar kw to a 3.0 but still less torques.

Garry

[jonesy63]

Less torque, and less likely to have turbo or alternator problems. :wasntme:

[Disco4SE]

Of course you can get a 2.7 and then get a $1000 BAS program for it - similar kw to a 3.0 but still less torque

Forgot to mention that my D3 2.7Lt had the re-map done. The power is up there on paper, but not in the actual drive. Possibly because of the torque being substantially less.

If you are on a budget, stick to it.............just don't drive the 3.0Lt.

Cheers, Craig

[101RRS]

Forgot to mention that my D3 2.7Lt had the re-map done. The power is up there on paper, but not in the actual drive. Possibly because of the torque being substantially less.

What most people think is power is in fact torque. To over simplify matters power determines top speed and torque determines how well it pulls.

In theory a chipped 2.7 D4 with 180kw will have the same top speed as a 3.0 D4 in the straight and level but the 3.0 will get there a lot quicker. Bring in a hill and the 3.0 will have a higher top speed.

At more realistic speeds - 110kph etc it is torque all the way if load is involved - less so if unloaded.

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

What most people think is power is in fact torque. To over simplify matters power determines top speed and torque ...

GarryGarry

You are trying to make me spend $15K aren't you! :o

(Particularly when we are starting off with 150Kg extra of power wheelchair in the back!)

Diana ;)

[101RRS]

Garry

You are trying to make me spend $15K aren't you! :o

(Particularly when we are starting off with 150Kg extra of power wheelchair in the back!)

Diana ;)

Not at all - I have only driven a 2.7 - my own and it is fine - relaxed best describes it. (did drive a 3.5 TDV8 though - plenty of zoom zoom there) Performance of the 2.7 is close to your RRC.

I have problems paying $15k for a bit of extra zoom zoom but each to their own I guess. I have been away with a 3.0 TDV6 RRS a couple of times and had problems staying with it.

For sensible normal every day driving the 2.7 is fine.

Garry

[scarry]

If i could fit 17's to the 3l,i would have got one.
Tyres were a major issue for me.
The 2.7 was also a massive jump up from a chipped TD5 D2,so doing without the 3l was not a major issue.
Also i don't tow anything.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The weight of the chair is an issue and when it's in the car there will always be at least 3 people in the car. Also yes I do tow, often big heavy things like a Land Rover on a car float so keep leaning towards the 3.0L.

It seems affordable with the salary package, and that will give me a few years to save up the dollars for the residual.

Just need to check the mountaineering abilities of the chair and if it will fit through the rear door.


Diana :confused:

[PaulGOz]

I drove both the 3.0L and 2.7L on test drive I liked the 3.0L very much and thought it was a bit OTT in terms of power. I decided the 2.7 would do and given I had already exceeded my desired budget by 2 fold before I found a 4WD that I really liked I decided to stop and keep anything extra for accessories and other toys. I now tow a Camper Trailer and have had that on the back of a 3.0l as well and I reckon the 3.0l can tow the 1T camper and get around as well as my 2.7 without it:(. Having said all that power/torque is acceptable and I often find myself buzzing around little hatches up hills when in a hurry.

The other big issue for me was also tyres. I like the comfort that LT tyres give. When towing my 1T trailer I will ahve the standard tyres at 50psi cold (max inflation pressure) and still get a 6psi increase when warm so i figure they are near the limit. The LTs can go to 65 psi.

[Disco4SE]

Like most vehicles, people buy the spec to suit their own personal needs.
Because Disco's are so versitile, they tend to suit a broader range of the community.
I go off road about 4 times a year and tow almost every day, hence the extra power (and mostly torque) of the 3.0Lt suits me best.
The 2.7Lt just cannot match the low down torque of the 3.0Lt for towing.

Others do more off roading and less towing, therfore the 2.7Lt suits them best, mainly because of tyre / wheel choice......and $.

Cheers, Craig

[Lotz-A-Landies]

My plans are for the 6X6 Defender to do the serious off road stuff and long distance touring, plus I'll be keeping the 4.6 RRc vague but Avis the 91 RRc will go, likely to a mate in a few weeks time.

(Far too many toys Diana! - :o )

[jon3950]

I'm going through the same process myself at the moment and am leaning towards the 2.7. Although I'd prefer a 3.0 just because, I struggle to see the value and there's nothing on the 3.0 that I want which I can't get on the 2.7. The deal-breaker for me is the 19" rims, but this sounds like less of an issue for you.

I tow a rally car regularly with my 2.7 Disco 3 and think its great, but then I was happy towing with a Td5. I also load it to the gunwales when camping and think it still goes just fine - lets face it, its a 4wd not a sports car.

I have driven both the 2.7 and the 3.0 and in some ways prefer the driveability of the 2.7. The 3.0 is certainly more powerful and great once its up on the plane, but I find the lag off idle much more noticeable, and annoying, than in the 2.7.

For me the must-haves are leather seats and bi-xenon headlights. Also the e-diff, but not neccessary if you're not doing much off-road. I would also get the high ICE as I've been disappointed with the wireless in the D3.

Cheers,
Jon

[PCH]

I had the 2.7lt D3 and towed a Kimberley Karavan. The D3 did struggle a bit on the highway up long hills but still did the job okay. Now I have the D4 with 3lt but sold the Karavan some time ago so don't have anything to tow but knowing the 2.7lt was struggling with 2 tonne I decided the 3lt was better for the extra torque if I towed again.

The 19" rims are not as big a dilemma as before since Continental Aust brought the General Grabber AT's to Australia in July 11.

If you like nice sound then get Premium ICE, the sound is very crisp and so much nicer than my premium sound in the D3.

Chris

[Disco4SE]

I have driven both the 2.7 and the 3.0 and in some ways prefer the driveability of the 2.7. The 3.0 is certainly more powerful and great once its up on the plane, but I find the lag off idle much more noticeable, and annoying, than in the 2.7.
I don't notice the lag at all, in fact I had 2 fellow AULRO members in my vehicle last year and both commented on the lack of lag.

Also the e-diff, but not neccessary if you're not doing much off-road. I agree about the e-diff, however for the extra initial cost at purchase could mean an easier sale when you go to sell.

The tyre choice for the 19" rims is expanding as more new 4WD's are leaning towards the larger rims.

Keep in mind, the 3.0Lt comes with the larger brakes (which is quite noticable), and the stronger transmission.

Cheers, Craig

[mowog]

I'm going through the same process myself at the moment and am leaning towards the 2.7. Although I'd prefer a 3.0 just because, I struggle to see the value and there's nothing on the 3.0 that I want which I can't get on the 2.7. The deal-breaker for me is the 19" rims, but this sounds like less of an issue for you.

Cheers,
Jon

You can get 18's for the 3.0L D4. There are a few of us here on the forum with them it was a group buy a while back.

[brad72]

I have a 2.7 D4 and couldn't be happier. Plenty of power, great ride, nice and quiet.

For me it was the fact that I only tow a couple of times a year so needing that extra grunt just wasn't needed. Off road the car has never lacked power nor on road either. Fully laden she still doesn't loose speed up steep hills and just cruises along all day.

I think which ever one you get you will be happy. I've had the D4 for a couple of years and still grin every time I drive her.

TO edit my above post my brother has a 2.7 RR sport and tows a 2 1/2 tonne boat and has never complained about lack of power.

[Disco4SE]

It appears that those with the 2:7Lt are happy with their choice, as with those who went with the 3.0Lt.
IMHO those that did choose the 3.0Lt would not go back to the 2.7.

Cheers, Craig

[101RRS]

It appears that those with the 2:7Lt are happy with their choice, as with those who went with the 3.0Lt.
IMHO those that did choose the 3.0Lt would not go back to the 2.7.

Cheers, Craig


But is that extra grunt worth $15,000 or there abouts?.

[roamer]

Grunt brakes gearbox and resale
Maybe
D3 5 seated petrol resale pretty poor for what ya saved from new

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Spent some time at Purnells Blakehurst today! Very helpful salesman. Took the 2.7 for a drive and was quite surprised, but did notice the turbo lag, particularly on hill starts. It pulls away and when the turbo comes in it rather surprised me with the boost in power.

Went back and had a chat about some of the functions and options, but unfortunately just as I wanted to take the 3.0 for a drive, it went out with someone else. Had a look at the D4s on the lot when the samesman came back, he didn't have the D4 3.0 for at least 1/2 an hour but I could take a 3.0 sport for a drive.

Pulled out of the drive and punched the go pedal to get to the 3rd lane, Whoa what a beast, almost scarry in comparison to the lag in the 2.7. I did find the 2.7 a pleasant drive and it performed well, but gee I'm glad I took the 2.7 out first. The 3.0 seemed to be more responsive and as the salesman said you can change lanes at any time where in the 2.7 you have to plan ahead.

Now I need to decide if I want to get any speeding tickets, which could be likely in a 3.0! :o

[101RRS]

he didn't have the D4 3.0 for at least 1/2 an hour but I could take a 3.0 sport for a drive.

Pulled out of the drive and punched the go pedal to get to the 3rd lane, Whoa what a beast

Remember the Sport is a couple of hundred kg lighter than a D4 so a bit more zoom zoom.

[Graeme]

Remember the Sport is a couple of hundred kg lighter than a D4 so a bit more zoom zoom.
The smaller diameter tyres would add a bit more to the performance improvement. However the 3.0 D4 can still jump lanes in a flash, as I discovered a few days ago when about to be boxed-in.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Remember the Sport is a couple of hundred kg lighter than a D4 so a bit more zoom zoom.Thats good, I'm sure I could get in a lot of trouble letting the horses out too quick.

Looks like a good time to buy, given the deals LR is offering ATM, it seems that the January Sale is still on owing to a large shipment of vehicles at the end of January.

It is a huge change from the early days of Range Rover when you had to wait for several years for a vehicle, or the mid 1980s when dealers like Modern Motors couldnt get a vehicle to sell for love nor money. 18 months between sales is a long time.

[jon3950]

You can get 18's for the 3.0L D4. There are a few of us here on the forum with them it was a group buy a while back.

If I end up with a 3.0, these will be the first thing I order. Compomotive make a great wheel (very popular in rallying) and these look like a good solution.

However, I run both 18" GGs and 17" KM2s on my D3. While the 18"s will get me most places I want to go, they are a bit fragile. I have suffered a lot of damage to tread, sidewalls and rims (though this would be less of an issue with the Compomotives). On the other hand, the KM2s are tough as nails, offer better traction and just inspire a lot more confidence.

For me, I want to run a tyre with the robustness of the KM2 and in a legal size, and I can't do that yet with an 18". So I would really like to continue to run the 17"s as a second set and can't do that with a 3.0.

Sorry, bit of topic from OP and a bit long-winded, but this is a really tough decision to make!

Cheers,
Jon

[scarry]

Sorry, bit of topic from OP and a bit long-winded, but this is a really tough decision to make!

Cheers,
Jon

Yep,for me to,the main reason i had to go for the 2.7.I didn't wanna go oversize,but i wanted LT.There is nothing in 18' that is LT.

As for resale,i don't think you would see more than half the 14k or whatever difference again.The more you spend,the more you lose at sale time.

The main reason the V6 petrol D3's are cheap,is because the are ummm,petrol.

[101RRS]

There is nothing in 18' that is LT.

BFG ATs are LT and now legal in most states.

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Resale value is not really an issue. The last brand new Range Rover I bought was my current RRc vague and back then it was equal to one years salary.

If I go ahead with this purchase I hope I'm still driving it when they take my licence away because of old age, and yes this one is a bit less than a years salary, which on the Land Rover index, means my salary hasn't kept up with inflation or I'd be buying a L322 HSE TDV8! :(

At least this purchase will give me time to do some detailing on Vague.

[Celtoid]

I'm going through the same process myself at the moment and am leaning towards the 2.7. Although I'd prefer a 3.0 just because, I struggle to see the value and there's nothing on the 3.0 that I want which I can't get on the 2.7. The deal-breaker for me is the 19" rims, but this sounds like less of an issue for you.

I tow a rally car regularly with my 2.7 Disco 3 and think its great, but then I was happy towing with a Td5. I also load it to the gunwales when camping and think it still goes just fine - lets face it, its a 4wd not a sports car.

I have driven both the 2.7 and the 3.0 and in some ways prefer the driveability of the 2.7. The 3.0 is certainly more powerful and great once its up on the plane, but I find the lag off idle much more noticeable, and annoying, than in the 2.7.

For me the must-haves are leather seats and bi-xenon headlights. Also the e-diff, but not neccessary if you're not doing much off-road. I would also get the high ICE as I've been disappointed with the wireless in the D3.

Cheers,
Jon

Jon,

With the sequential turbo's on the 3.0l there can't be any lag....what you probably experienced was the transmission trying to 'think'. It's a well known isssue with all adaptive transmissions, regardless of Brand.

The car you drove may have been poodled around for some time before you drove it.

That reaction issue that you mentioned is real however and used to bother me and freak me out, especially when the engine lit up....it's a handful.

Now I don't even notice it, as in it doesn't happen because I've adjusted to the way the D4 works. No loss in capability, I've automatically adjusted to how it 'thinks'.....in most cases...LOL :D

When in doubt, select sports mode....

I've driven and owned lots of auto cars and the Disco has got have one of the easiest, instinctive transmissision set ups.......move - go, flick to sport - go, select a gear - go!

Easy!!!

It may be heavy but they aren't speed limited to 180 for no reason....;)

Cheers,

Kev.

[Graeme]

.. this is a really tough decision to make!
I found it so. Whilst many have foregone the 3.0 for better tyre options I didn't. I had already started down the "standard" 2.7 brake package path when the Compomotive rims were born so continued and run tough 17" Yoko LTs as everyday tyres. With more and cheaper 18" tyres available now, a 3.0 fitted with Compomotive rims is probably an acceptable solution for me, but perhaps fitting oversized LT tyres for occasional very harsh use.

[Disco4SE]

Re: The 3.0Lt TD.
I have modified every 4WD that I have owned in the past, within the first 20,000Klm's. Mainly for the extra torque required for towing.
This includes my last D3 2.7Lt which I had re-mapped at 8,000Klm's.

Two years and 85,000Klm's on, I havent yet felt the need to alter the perfomance of the 3.0Lt. If I did, it would be purely to spend money on it.

Cheers, Craig

[101RRS]

Took the 2.7 for a drive and was quite surprised, but did notice the turbo lag, particularly on hill starts. It pulls away and when the turbo comes in it rather surprised me with the boost in power.


what you probably experienced was the transmission trying to 'think'. It's a well known isssue with all adaptive transmissions, regardless of Brand.

The car you drove may have been poodled around for some time before you drove it.

This is most likely the issue that Diana felt when driving the 2.7. Many people says it is 'turbo lag' but it happens less in Sport mode and not at all in Command shift. If it was 'turbo lag' it would also be happening in Command shift which it doesn't.

Garry

[Graeme]

Re: The 3.0Lt TD.
I have modified every 4WD that I have owned in the past, within the first 20,000Klm's. Mainly for the extra torque required for towing.
This includes my last D3 2.7Lt which I had re-mapped at 8,000Klm's.
Having modified my TD5 D2 to a basic satisfactory performance level if driven hard and with lots of people having remapped their 2.7s virtually from day 1, I was very keen to get the 3.0. Overtaking with the 3.0 is such a breeze.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

This descussion of turbo lag Vs ECU processing delay is irrelevant. The same hill stopping at the same place and moving off with the same driver actions. The 2.7 was moving slowly off the mark for what seemed like 2 or 3 seconds then the engine "lit up" as described earlier. The 3.0 lit up immediately.

The reason the delay occurs, doesn't really matter, at times I drive my cars and other times I want to get from A to B relaxed and without driving stress. My purchase is leaning towards the 3.0 because it ticks the boxes on the stress free performance.

Now it all comes down to what my employer and the leasing company will agree to. So I still may end up with a 2.7.

Diana

[jon3950]

Jon,

With the sequential turbo's on the 3.0l there can't be any lag....what you probably experienced was the transmission trying to 'think'. It's a well known isssue with all adaptive transmissions, regardless of Brand.

G'day Kev,

Lag was a poor choice of word - as you point out its not turbo lag and command shift is the only way I've found to overcome it too.

I've driven quite a few 3.0s now both in Disco and RRS and have always found the hesitation more noticeable - maybe because when the 3.0 takes off, it really takes off! I guess its just what your used to and I'm sure if I drove the 3.0 on a daily basis it wouldn't bother me. I must admit though I find the 3.0 disappointing in the RRS after the TDV8.

Please don't take any of my comments as anti 3.0 - there's no question its the nicer engine. However, I'm happy enough with the performance of the 2.7 and for me the rim size problem and extra cost outweighs the benefit of the extra grunt.

Of course I reserve the right to change my mind when it comes time to put my money where my mouth is!

Cheers,
Jon

[jon3950]

BFG ATs are LT and now legal in most states.

Garry

The BFG site doesn't to have any sizing for the ATs. Whats the closest to standard size they are available in?

[gghaggis]

The BFG site doesn't to have any sizing for the ATs. Whats the closest to standard size they are available in?

265/65R18. In some instances you may have to import them (not a lot around in that size).

In the 285/60R18 size there are a couple of LT-construction tyres, if you're willing to import, eg the Nitto AT.

Yokohama make a 116 rating PT tyre in 275/60R18

Cheers,

Gordon

[101RRS]

There seems to be a problem with the BFG site

Here is the Jax sizings

BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO Tyres (http://www.jaxquickfit.com.au/tyres/brands/bfgoodrich/all-terrain-ta-ko#read-more)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Looking at the brochures and the tyre people, it seems that you can get AT tyres for 18" rims (not available on the 3.0) and for 20" rims but not with 19" rims.

Is this what others are finding?

[gghaggis]

Looking at the brochures and the tyre people, it seems that you can get AT tyres for 18" rims (not available on the 3.0) and for 20" rims but not with 19" rims.

Is this what others are finding?

Well, 18" rims for the 3.0 are available through me, and yes - plenty of AT's for that rim size. For the 19" rims there are the Pirelli ATR and the GG AT. A few AT's for the 20" such as Cooper LTZ.

Cheers,

Gordon

[DieselDan]

Regarding the relative acceleration merits of the 2.7 vs the 3.0 another factor may be the torque converter in the trans.
The Jags with the same engines (I know they're slightly different, esp the 2.7) run a torque converter with higher torque multiplication in the 2.7 and also unlock the torque converter at the slightest whiff of extra throttle so the engine instantly revs up into the peak torque band.

In the name of extra fuel economy, lower emissions, blah blah, the 3.0 has a tc with a bit less torque multiplication and will keep the tc locked till very low speeds and just use the torque of the engine to accelerate like a manual box kept in 5th. Unless you nail it to kick down of course:D
Might be the same issues in the Discos....

[Barryp]

Traded my 2.7 LR3 in on a 3 litre RRS recently.
Absolutely no comparison between the engines, the 3 litre gives virtually instantaneous response every time whereas the 2.7 always hesitated. I found that my driving style changed to make allowance for the lag in the 2.7 but getting into the 3 litre really showed it up.
Regards,
Barryp

[scarry]

BFG ATs are LT and now legal in most states.

Garry

What i should have said is there are no LT tyres in 18" size similar diameter to OEM.If you want to go to say 265/65/18 etc,the vehicle will need modifications.....& may not e legal in some states.
I went to 17's and have ordered a set of LT rugged terrains,which is there new tyre.
The Aus BFG site is not much good,better off looking at the US site,but it still doesn't tell you what sizes are available here,which is a PITA.

[gghaggis]

What i should have said is there are no LT tyres in 18" size similar diameter to OEM.If you want to go to say 265/65/18 etc,the vehicle will need modifications.....& may not be legal in some states.

No, you shouldn't need mods to fit the 265/65R18 - it's the same rolling diameter as a 265/70R17, which many people here have fitted to their D3's. Legalities, as you've pointed out, vary from state to state.

Variation in tyre design can often blur the line between LT and P designations. There are some P tyres with 121 loading or higher, some LT's with 117. Sidewall construction materials can now make some P tyres arguably a better choice for a modern 4WD - the Cooper LTZ range comes to mind.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Are the discounts at present because of the immenent 8 speed auto and is it worth the wait?

[sniegy]

No mention to dealers as of yet that we are getting the 8 spd auto this year or next, future ?????
While the deals are there, it's good to take advantage of them, LR in general only do deals once or twice a year if that.;)

Have fun :-)

[scarry]

Are the discounts at present because of the immenent 8 speed auto and is it worth the wait?

You would recon it's not to far away as it is in all models in the UK,including the base commercial model.

Maybe MY13 or 14,but probably gonna cost more again,& maybe not in all models,who knows?

I thought about this as well before my recent purchase,but as sniegy says the deals at the moment are very good,so i decided not to wait.Dollar for dollar with anything else around there is no comparison.
You couldn't get a D4 for the money you would pay today a few months ago.

Waiting for the 8 sp auto maybe like 'how long is a piece of string':angel:

[discotwinturbo]

Are the discounts at present because of the immenent 8 speed auto and is it worth the wait?

Don't know how imminent that the euro model is, but the neighbour just placed an order, and they may it crystal clear it will be the 6 speed...delivery due July 12. I also enquired about when it would arrive but southerns have heard nothing.
My 6 speed touareg is smooth, but when I drove the 8 speed last week it was even more smooth.
I think euro 6 does not come in until 2014 so they may not arrive until late 2013 for cost reasons I would expect.

[M D3]

Hi Scarry,
I am about to order a 2012 2.7 and I see that you have rear air on yours. When I told Austral I wanted rear air, they said not many are ordering rear air on 2.7 models. I presume buyers feel they either don't need it or feel that rear air will put too much load on the engine. I am interested in your views.

BTW, Austral said it has sold out of 2011 models and the free on roads offer has finished for them.

Regards
M D3 - D3 with rear air

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...
BTW, Austral said it has sold out of 2011 models and the free on roads offer has finished for them.

Regards
M D3 - D3 with rear airThat the MY11 models had finished was the comment from Purnells but they suggest there was a big delivery of MY12 at the end of January so LR are continuing the Main Event discount deals to shift the stock.

I guess it's a reason to order quick.

[scarry]

Hi Scarry,
I am about to order a 2012 2.7 and I see that you have rear air on yours. When I told Austral I wanted rear air, they said not many are ordering rear air on 2.7 models. I presume buyers feel they either don't need it or feel that rear air will put too much load on the engine. I am interested in your views.

BTW, Austral said it has sold out of 2011 models and the free on roads offer has finished for them.

Regards
M D3 - D3 with rear air

Dunno about the free on roads,i will send you aPM.
As for the rear air,haven't really used it,our kids have grown up & left home.The front air is very good.It was on the vehicle which we took as was in stock,not something we would have ordered.

[Stuart02]

Yep rear air's great for the littlies.

I'm more than happy with our 2.7 D4, fine for light towing (towed a loaded 7x4 Melbourne to Sydney and barely noticed the increase in fuel use).

Obviously I have 3.0 envy, but more so cos of the brakes. If they could have been optioned on a 2.7...

[Disco4SE]

Hi Scarry,
I am about to order a 2012 2.7 and I see that you have rear air on yours. When I told Austral I wanted rear air, they said not many are ordering rear air on 2.7 models. I presume buyers feel they either don't need it or feel that rear air will put too much load on the engine. I am interested in your views

Hi M D3,
I don't notice any drag at all on the engine with the front & rear air conditioning going flat out, nor do I notice any power difference with any / either air conditioning on or off. However, I do have the 3.0Lt.

I would never own another vehicle without rear air.

Cheers, Craig.

[Disco4SE]

Are the discounts at present because of the immenent 8 speed auto and is it worth the wait?

Re: The 8 speed auto - Have read several articles on the UK LR Forum. The 8 speed supposed to be smoother, and quicker through the gears, however it doesn't like to stay in 8th and hunts around (much like the LC200).
This would annoy me and was one of the reasons that put me off the Landcruiser.

Cheers, Craig

[PCH]

My D3 had Rear A/C and so does my D4.

IMHO the rear air helps to cool the very large interior after sitting in the hot sun alot quicker than only 1 A/C unit. I never noticed any load on the engine to run the rear A/C.

Also the Rear A/C helps to keep the cargo area cooler when you run a fridge.

I couldn't buy another Disco without rear A/C.

[camel_landy]

Yep... Massive difference in engine performance (37% more). Power & torque up 36% & 38%.

M

[Robocop]

How many D4's are you going to buy? I'd just buy the good model from the beginning. I went for the 3.0 but regret not ordering the HSE with premium ICE.

[DiscoWeb]

Hi Scarry,
I am about to order a 2012 2.7 and I see that you have rear air on yours. When I told Austral I wanted rear air, they said not many are ordering rear air on 2.7 models. I presume buyers feel they either don't need it or feel that rear air will put too much load on the engine. I am interested in your views.

Regards
M D3 - D3 with rear air

M D3,

IMHO you can tell Austral that is complete rubbish.

I have had a 2.7 D3 for over 3 years with rear air and I run it all the time,when the air is on. Never noticed any difference in performance with it on or off, loaded or unloaded. With the amount of torque the 2.7 puts our the a/c is simply not noticed.

In saying that I do find that the base A/C is very very good so I do not think this is an absolute imperative as others might suggest, but hey I never ride in the very back and to date have not run a fridge in the rear, in bot instances I am sure it would help.

We do often have 7 in the car and have the alpine glass roof (not something I would necessarily option again) and the kids frequently turn off the rear vents (at the rear of the centre console) as it is too cold.

Of topic but answering a question.

On topic, I am sure the 3.0 is awesome, so whilst not having driven one I do not know what I am missing but in saying that I have never wanted for more power than I get from the 2.7.

I think I would find the $15k differential a significant stretch based on that.

Good luck in deliberations.

George

[Graeme]

Obviously I have 3.0 envy, but more so cos of the brakes. If they could have been optioned on a 2.7...Its simple to fit the HD braking package to a 2.7 - just larger rotors, callipers, calliper brackets, stone guards and new pads. Perhaps wait until the rotors need replacing anyway in order to reduce the cost. You can re-use the rear callipers and pads (need new brackets though) or even only upgrade the front.