S1 2 Litre Valve Stem Seals

[101RRS]

The engine in my 88 starts OK and runs OK until it starts to get warm when it starts to blow really thick smoke.

I suspect it needs a rebuild but I want to have a look at the easiest things first. To replace the valve seals (do they have them or just have guides), I assume it is a head off job. Is there anything special that needs to be looked for or replaced at the same time.

Thanks

Garry

[JDNSW]

The valve stem seals (inlet only) seem to be O-rings in the guide, which means it is a head off job. I would be inclined to do a compression check to ensure the problem is not rings before removing the head. While the head is off, obviously a decoke and valve grind would be a minimum.

You need the workshop manual if you do not already have it. See "Shop" at the top of this page for the CD with the manual.

John

[101RRS]

Thanks John,

I am not wanting to spend big dollars on this engine - I actually think the bore/rings are worn but wanting to do the easier things first. When the head is off I might put a set of rings in and with the valve seals and see how we go.

Cheers

Garry

[dennisS1]

It is my opinion that your problem is not valve stem seals, The symptoms of worn or stuffed valve stem seals is smoke at start up and maybe a little gray smoke at idle.
Like most Land Rover seals they are seal in name only.
When hot and at high than idle revs you would not pick the seals gone.
If not to bad you may get away with a hone and new rings.
Personally I would pull the engine out, replacing rings in the car is not to good even with 2 people.
Dennis

[JDNSW]

Respectfully, I would disagree, having done this. It is quite possible to rering while in the car, although removing the front mudguards (about ten minutes each if bolts aren't rusted) makes it easier.

The reported symptoms, I agree, do not sound like valve stem seals - it is valve stem seals if you get a cloud of blue smoke after idling for a while but it then clears. Producing blue smoke under load will almost certainly be rings, but does not necessarily mean that the bore is bad. Unlikely, but could just be the bore glazed.

You need to read the factory manual - there are one or two "gotchas", including that the big ends won't fit through the bore and the pistons won't fit past the crankshaft.

John

[101RRS]

Thanks Dennis - I agree.

I have to pull the gearbox out so it will not be an issue going that extra bit and take the engine out.

I was hoping to just get this car to on road standard with no actual restoration being done - on historic rego for local club events - however if I have to spend real money on it, it will just be relegated to the back yard again and used as a parts car for my SW that will require a full on restoration. As it has the incorrect engine it (a siamese instead of a spredbore) I would get the engine out of the basic fully rebuilt and put in the SW.

Cheers

Garry

[dennisS1]

Respectfully, I would disagree, having done this. It is quite possible to rering while in the car, although removing the front mudguards (about ten minutes each if bolts aren't rusted) makes it easier.
John
Yes you can do it without removing the engine; you can replace the valve stem seals without taking the head off to. But in the interest of time and ease and the ever present risk of breaking the new rings, I think it is easier to remove the engine.
The big thing to watch is that when you reconnect the piston to the rod that the oil hole is away from the camshaft side of the block, it is not hard to make a mistake with the need to rotate 90deg after replacing the pin..
Dennis