D4 EAS fuse

[WhiteD3]

Page 223 of the manual shows F3 (5A) as the "Air Suspension ECU" fuse while page 224 shows F26 (20A) as the same.

I removed both to fit my GOE rods. Replacing (in order) F26 seems to do nothing while replacing F3 wakes things up and the car levels.

So which is the correct fuse to pull for fitting the GOE rods?

What's the difference between the two?

I assume one's the compressor and one's the ECU.

[gghaggis]

There are several fuses and relays you need to remove to completely deactivate the EAS. Simplest thing to do is disconnect the battery.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Graeme]

The 5A fuse is used by the suspension ecu to detect that power is getting to the compressor from the compressor relay. A much smaller fuse would suffice but 5A is the smallest fuse of this style. The 20A fuse powers the suspension ecu so once it it removed, the ecu is dead to the world.

[discotwinturbo]

Why do you need to disconnect fuses to put the rods on ?
For the rears I just did it from underneath (maybe that was wrong) with doors open. I am just careful to make sure I don't increase the gap when fitting so that it causes the disco to lower.
Front from the side of the wheel.
When I need to adjust I just reach in.
Have done it this way a couple of times...once when I put them on initially, and before and after service.

[bbyer]

The link below is to some air suspension wiring jpg's and comments re the various fuses.

I must complement WhiteD3 for being concerned about the air releasing from the air springs and doing bad things to his hands etc. In my opinion, for oil changes or whatever else, you either have frame jacks underneath or at least kill the electrical system in some manner or other.

Opening doors etc and then assuming that the Land Rover computer logic is flawless is to me, not worth chancing my hands. I still recall one day as I walked away from my 3, all the air just released and it dropped to the stops. I still do not know why; it never has since, but that always scared me. All I had done was checked the oil and slammed the hood down. The 3 drops near instantly, and not slowly as when one purposely lowers to access height.

One comment I will make is that as mentioned, disconnecting the battery is the most certain way to assure yourself that the wakeup auto level circuits, (and everything else), are truly asleep. Fuse 26E is the next choice as that does kill the air system computer; F3E and F35P kill various aspects of things but the auto level is still very much alive and that is the function that will most likely get you.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3778)

[discotwinturbo]

The link below is to some air suspension wiring jpg's and comments re the various fuses.

I must complement WhiteD3 for being concerned about the air releasing from the air springs and doing bad things to his hands etc. In my opinion, for oil changes or whatever else, you either have frame jacks underneath or at least kill the electrical system in some manner or other.

Opening doors etc and then assuming that the Land Rover computer logic is flawless is to me, not worth chancing my hands. I still recall one day as I walked away from my 3, all the air just released and it dropped to the stops. I still do not know why; it never has since, but that always scared me. All I had done was checked the oil and slammed the hood down. The 3 drops near instantly, and not slowly as when one purposely lowers to access height.

One comment I will make is that as mentioned, disconnecting the battery is the most certain way to assure yourself that the wakeup auto level circuits, (and everything else), are truly asleep. Fuse 26E is the next choice as that does kill the air system computer; F3E and F35P kill various aspects of things but the auto level is still very much alive and that is the function that will most likely get you.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch (http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=3778)
That makes sense. Did not realize what could go wrong.

[outasight]

My 3.0 D4 SE reasonably often "drops" suddenly & quickly a small amount(at the front is what I've noticed)when I am stopped at traffic lights or pulled up & engine running in a car park. Never understood yet why this happens ...

Regards,

Les.

[WhiteD3]

Thanks for your responses guys :)

Once the rods are installed I'm happy to adjust the rod holes (normal or off road) by just turning off the ignition and leaving the door open. But when installing the rods (I remove them when the car's due for a service) I want to remove all the risks.

I love the D4 but that doesn't mean I'm willing to sacrifice body parts for the sake of saving a few minutes.

[Graeme]

My 3.0 D4 SE reasonably often "drops" suddenly & quickly a small amount(at the front is what I've noticed)when I am stopped at traffic lights or pulled up & engine running in a car park. Never understood yet why this happens ...

Regards,

Les.
Height corrections occur whilst driving because of weight transfers when accelerating, cruising and decelerating, so when it stops heights need to be corrected again.

[outasight]

Must be too often nose up accelerating then :wasntme: