no headlights

[mudder110]

hi all hope someone can help got no headlights on my 98 110 defender
parkers work, can flash high beam thats it. put a multi meter on the switch it shows power with the switch off but none with switch on allso shows no power at lights with switch on driving me nuts
allso does anyone know where the relays are cause im in the dark:)

[Blknight.aus]

relays? what relays....

it always comes down to 3 things.

1. fuses
2. bulbs
3. the switch.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

No relays in light circuit.

My money would be on the switch. It's not uncommon for them to die, especially if you've put bigger bulbs in.

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[easo]

I've had similar and my switch was melted out. Went through another 2 switches before getting an upgraded headlight loom.

Regards Easo

[lambrover]

It's your switch mate as the lights come on when you use the high beam flash but don't when you use the switch, it's a different circuit. It is common for the switch to burn out on the head light contacts, they melt. After you fit a new switch fit relays to the head light circuit so the switch last longer.

[justinc]

dont forget the headlamps require the ignition switch to be on tp be working, too.

JC

[mudder110]

thanks for the info folks switch is fine starting to think it may be harness
as there is no power at the headlight connectors maybe a complete rewire
from lights to switch is this something i can do myself:confused:

[bee utey]

thanks for the info folks switch is fine starting to think it may be harness
as there is no power at the headlight connectors maybe a complete rewire
from lights to switch is this something i can do myself:confused:

I would test everything before randomly rewiring all the lights. Wiring generally doesn't fail, switches fuses and connectors do. Unless things have changed in Lucasland, the headlights should be blue/red stripe for low beam and blue/white stripe for high beam. Apply 12V from a suitable source to these coloured wires at the headlight switch and see if the lamps come on.

There should be power at the switch because your high beam flash works. Probably a brown wire. Then find the wire that feeds into the dip switch area from the off-park-head switch. See if this has power when you operate the switch at the right time.

A test light, securely earthed at the clip end is better here than a multimeter as you can see it light up while you wiggle switches and wires.

[flagg]

Find where the cct gets its ignition feed and make sure it is seeing it. Id be looking for dodgy connectors.. the wire sometimes disconnects from the back of the bullet ones.

You have to be methodical and work from a point through the cct, otherwise you will just Chase your tail. Do you have a test light etc?

[mudder110]

thanks all will get a test light tomorrow im out at miles in western qld at the moment will follow all advice given poor old thing has seen the wars
from the gulf to the cape just celebrated her 300,000 k birthday
doesent normaly miss a beat will report back after i get a test light
300tdi 110 98 mod full maxi drive conversion incl. front rear axels
2 inch lift wrangler muddies upgraded intercooler stronger prop shafts
plus all the usual sliders bash plates and protectors

[Albert]

I would be using this as a exuse to wire in a new harness with decent wires and relays.
But you will still need to get the switch working to power the relays.:(
Putting 5mm wire on mine made a huge differnce

[drivesafe]

thanks all will get a test light tomorrow

Hi mudder and under no circumstances use a test light.

Get a digital multi meter. You can buy a cheap one for around $10.

The use of test lights should have been band when safety air bags were introduced.

If you have the ignition on and touch the wrong wire with a test light probe, you can trigger the safety air bag system, and if you happen to be in front of the steering wheel at the time, the results can and have been fatal.

There have been a number of deaths in the US and quite a few injured here caused by people accidentally triggering of the safety air bag system while using a test light.

A digital multi meter will not trigger the safety air bag system if you test the wrong wire.

[Blknight.aus]

what SRS airbag, tis a defender... (and a tdi deefer at that)

get both, a test lamp wont show phantom voltages.

[drivesafe]

what SRS airbag, tis a defender... (and a tdi deefer at that)

Hi Dave and I thought the later defs had a steering wheel SRS, but I have not taken much notice.

Thanks for the info.

[mudder110]

hi all thanks for all the help still having no luck have tried two different switches found two melted 7.5 amp fuses under the passengers seat in the small box replaced them no differance thinking maybe should replace the high beam switch:confused:

[Yorkshire_Jon]

hi all thanks for all the help still having no luck have tried two different switches found two melted 7.5 amp fuses under the passengers seat in the small box replaced them no differance thinking maybe should replace the high beam switch:confused:

But yourself a cheap multi meter and follow the 12v.

You'll need to pull off the steering column plastic shroud to get access.

Find it (12v) before the switch - there's a permenant live and a switched live. Switched for headlights, permenant for side lights.

Follow those lives through the switch and to the high beam switch. I think youll find that's where the trail dies.

Re the fuses, suspect they will be the LHS and RHS circuits, from memory they are seperated. You should be able to confirm what the blown fuses are by referencing the diagram on the fuse box cover.

I'm pretty sure your wiring will not be at fault, much more likely the hi beam switch given that you've already tried the off-on-on switch.

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[Yorkshire_Jon]

But yourself a cheap multi meter and follow the 12v.

You'll need to pull off the steering column plastic shroud to get access.

Find it (12v) before the switch - there's a permenant live and a switched live. Switched for headlights, permenant for side lights.

Follow those lives through the switch and to the high beam switch. I think youll find that's where the trail dies.

Re the fuses, suspect they will be the LHS and RHS circuits, from memory they are seperated. You should be able to confirm what the blown fuses are by referencing the diagram on the fuse box cover.

I'm pretty sure your wiring will not be at fault, much more likely the hi beam switch given that you've already tried the off-on-on switch.

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Just thinking again about the 2 x 7.5A fuses that have blown. Is that the right size for the position they are in? Reference the fuse box holder diagram.

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[PAT303]

Tim,do you make a light kit for the limited edition defenders with seperate low/high beam lights?. Pat

[Albert]

In mine the switch was fine but the wires had melted the insulation and burnt the wire most of the way back to the fuse box.
Once you take off the plastic cover you will see its a very basic set up. A test light will do you fine.
It is hard to get a harness for the 110 because the headlights have their own little box, so you would have to cut a bigger hole into it or cut the new harness and rejoin it to get the plug in to the headlight.