Timing light, - advice needed

[superquag]

Its been a long time since I last saw my timing light... suspect it got chucked due to batteries leaking. - so I may as well lash out and replace it.

Looking here on evilbay, timing light | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=timing+light&_sacat=See-All-Categories)

Any suggestions as to what is worth having ? I can't see the point in a all-singing/dancing DIGITAL variable advance back-scratching whizzo....if the $38.00 cheapy will do the job. ($69- $89 in local shops, but the same unit...)

Then again, the HELLA $78 is more likely to last and be better built/brighter (?) than the cheepy...

I just need it to time my 3.9 Classic. (with Bee Utey's BOSCH ign. module)

[calaissix]

i brand name is proberly the way to go if its only a bit dearer,inductive pick of course

[Blknight.aus]

I've been using one of the cheap ones for years now with no problems.

[superquag]

Being a Scrooge at heart... thats what I like to hear ! :D

[rovercare]

i seldom use a timing light and honestly, its not needed, unless your playing distributor weights/advance curves, just up the timing until such time as it becomes hard to start or the engine rattles (ping), then retard a little, that's optimum timing for the curve your running, make sure you have a tank full of the fuel your going to use, no good tuning for 98 when you stuff 91 in and it rattles its ass off;)

[superquag]

Hmmm, reminds me of how I used to do it on the Crown, - then use the OCTANE adjust knob for Fine Tuning....

The $38 one is looking even better now.... will try the suck-it-and-see method,,, which worked great just now on my vacuum advance.... kept on sucking and no movement of the plate.

And I was just reading about it on another thread !!! Spooky:eek:

So, good IGN system, but dunno when the New Improved spark happens...and the perforated vac. diaphragm is'nt helping either...

[Xtreme]

i seldom use a timing light and honestly, its not needed, unless your playing distributor weights/advance curves, just up the timing until such time as it becomes hard to start or the engine rattles (ping), then retard a little, that's optimum timing for the curve your running, make sure you have a tank full of the fuel your going to use, no good tuning for 98 when you stuff 91 in and it rattles its ass off;)

^x2

Initially set your timing statically using a 12v globe or multimeter then advance it until it pings under load (I use 3rd gear up a slight hill) then back it off a tad.

[PhilipA]

I got a cheap one from the USA on Ebay for about $30 all up AFAIR.
It is the same appearance as my old one, and the same appearance as the Supercheap etc ones.
It works well.
I find static timing very difficult with electronic ignition. Easy with points but who still has points?
Regards Philip A

[rovercare]

I got a cheap one from the USA on Ebay for about $30 all up AFAIR.
It is the same appearance as my old one, and the same appearance as the Supercheap etc ones.
It works well.
I find static timing very difficult with electronic ignition. Easy with points but who still has points?
Regards Philip A

Just stick it in at top dead centre and start it, advance during road timing from there, still no light needed

[bee utey]

Just stick it in at top dead centre and start it, advance during road timing from there, still no light needed

How do you accurately set TDC timing with electronic ignition? You don't get a timing pulse until it's cranking. A timing light lets you check static, vacuum and centrifugal advance, all for $30-$50 for a cheapie.

PS James I hope you've checked the clearance in the pick-up with a brass 5 thou blade, like a good boy.:cool:

[PhilipA]

Yes, I have had a few comical attempts to turn the crank fast enough to energise the ignition to check the timing by setting No1 with a gap to the head or whatever.
Mostly ends in lots of sweat and no result.
Regards Philip A

[Recy Mech]

Gee......I'm getting all flashbacks of 'tuning' my HG station wagon. Adjust 'dizzi' whilst watching the exhaust and listening. Viola! all done.

[mike 90 RR]

Cheepy timing light is the go .... So long as it has battery lead connections .... and is not one of those "Direct plug inline to the spark plug lead / hang it up if your gonna do it during the day, unless you can drape a huge woollen army issued blanket over the bonnet whilst inside a fully sealed shed to block out the sunlight / best done at midnight with no moon glow, types" .... God, those things are horrible ....


Cheers
Mike

[superquag]

.......

PS James I hope you've checked the clearance in the pick-up with a brass 5 thou blade, like a good boy.:cool:

Yes Uncle J... Knew that from my days of owning a CM Valiant. :p

I've some leftover bits of Estar-based film from a past life... .004" thick. Reckon I can work out .005 from that.:)

Actually, have'nt done it yet... found out last night that the vacuum advance diaphragm is leaking like a sieve... not matter how hard/suddnely/long I suck for, the reluctor plate merely twitches.

What's the cheapest way... replace the vac. unit or just buy a Chinese dizzy from evilBay. ? :twisted::twisted::twisted:

[mike 90 RR]

What's the cheapest way... replace the vac. unit or just buy a Chinese dizzy from evilBay. ? :twisted::twisted::twisted:



This is the BEST option .....

Advance Diaphragm Options (http://advancediaphragmoptions.com/)


Infact ..... after you do some price and QUALITY research ... You will quickly realise that it is the only option :D

[rovercare]

How do you accurately set TDC timing with electronic ignition? You don't get a timing pulse until it's cranking. A timing light lets you check static, vacuum and centrifugal advance, all for $30-$50 for a cheapie.

PS James I hope you've checked the clearance in the pick-up with a brass 5 thou blade, like a good boy.:cool:

You point the rotor button at No.1 cylinder

As I said, until your are playing with curves!

Refitting a known dizzy is easy, no light needed

People tend to utelise figures for setting timing, miraculous recomendations from the interweb (i.e. set to 12deg and it'll be sweet), which is not actually optimum timing, as its prior to preignition whilst utelising the fuel which you will fill your tank with and there can be large variances

People like the "reassurance" of a number....its not correct

EDIT, that's for a seperate elec ignition system, as in what a stinky rover that's not a P38 or D2 will have, things change a little with ECU controlled timing dizzy's like other makes

[rovercare]

Yes, I have had a few comical attempts to turn the crank fast enough to energise the ignition to check the timing by setting No1 with a gap to the head or whatever.
Mostly ends in lots of sweat and no result.
Regards Philip A

You really tried that?:D

[olbod]

I use a Meco Timing Light M1603.
Works fine, has battery connection.
Think I got it from Super Cheap.
Cant remember but I dont think I would have paid much for it.

Cheers.

[Traco]

A digital dial back is great but not so cheap. Shows rpm and accurate distributor advance checking on the care.
The advantage of a dialback light is you only need marks for TDC, no need for any others. Also has tacho display.

Equus - Products - 3568 INNOVA® Digital Timing Light - Diagnostics Made Easy (http://www.equus.com/Product/3568/INNOVA-Digital-Timing-Light)

[superquag]

This is the BEST option .....

Advance Diaphragm Options (http://advancediaphragmoptions.com/)


Infact ..... after you do some price and QUALITY research ... You will quickly realise that it is the only option :D

Sadly, I'm a sucker for 'quality', been known to pay for it in preference to cheeep rubbish...

Any idea as to how much for the part ?

[mike 90 RR]

Sadly, I'm a sucker for 'quality', been known to pay for it in preference to cheeep rubbish...

Any idea as to how much for the part ?

Mmmm ... Brand new = $120+ and will fail in 2 years flat

Click on the link I put up and go to the contacts section
Phone them up in Queensland and give them your CC numbers
They will send you a reco unit complete with a "return to sender" envelope
Pop your old unit in the envelope and send it back to them
They then refund the "Deposit"

All up (from memory) .... 75 clams .... :)
Takes 3 to 5 days to get here

They use real rubber ....
Better than original and should last longer too
How good is that, eh



I've bought at least 4 units off them to replace various rovers ......

Cheers
Mike

[superquag]

Your memory is fine...

Here's their reply, in part.

"....$75 plus freight as an exchange unit.
$9 express post to you plus $6 return freight bag(pre-addressed postage paid).
A deposit of $30 is charged if we send you the diaphragm
without first receiving your old one.
We refund the deposit when the old unit arrives back here.
....."

Total outlay, $120, then deduct refund of Deposit, means a nett co$t of $90 Quite reasonable indeed :-)

Should out-last the vehicle... :p

Playing Devil's Advocate... has anyone bought/used the evilBay $165 dizzy ? Did it work? and for how long ??? - Comes with attached Chi-LUCAS ign. module which would be at least as good as the British version.... not too difficult!!!

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DISTRIBUTOR-RANGE-LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-DISCOVERY-35DLM8-/200631787206

[superquag]

Ordered and paid for the vacuum advance unit today. - Spoke to Mike, it'll be sent out in today's post (Friday 2nd.)
- Reckons it can be done without removing the distributor.... Will start on it tomorrow (IF Orders from SWMBO allow some free time...)
Good excuse to change the plugs and leads :eek: