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joe.woods
4th March 2012, 12:05 AM
I bought a D2 (TD5 Auto) 3 months back and every now and then the M&S lights would flash, but shutting down the engine and locking the doors then unlocking the doors and restarting resolved the problem. This happened once every couple of weeks but now it happens every time I change from forward to reverse or reverse to forward. If I start the D2 and only drive forward there are no issues, when the flashing M&S start I go through my little procedure and off we go again without fail... I have bought a second hand Auto Trans Controller on eBay (awaiting del) hoping this will solve it. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Joe

OffTrack
4th March 2012, 08:43 AM
The ECU is probably the least likely thing to be causing the problem.

Low battery voltage will trigger the M&S, as will a faulty position switch. You really need to get the gearbox fault codes read to know exactly what is causing the problem otherwise you are just guessing.

There are numerous threads on flashing M&S if you search. The AULRO search engine doesn't work with three letter search terms so google for "site:aulro.com m&s"


cheers
Paul

Disco W.A
4th March 2012, 09:08 AM
Joe, if you post what suburb of Perth your in there may be someone nearby that has a nanocom that you can use to read the codes, I have one I live in Beechboro if that's any help

Roger

joe.woods
4th March 2012, 12:12 PM
Thanks Roger, I live in Hocking, If you have time I'd love to come around and sort this problem, I'm just learning the Disco, my last Landie was in the 80's -90's and was a IIa a lot simpler machine. I'm planning on buying a Nanocom they seem to be the answer it would be good to see how they work.
Joe

Marmoset
4th March 2012, 07:46 PM
I've just sorted the exact same issue out with a clean out of the position switch - I figured I may as well clean it out and see if that does the job, before spending moneey on an overpriced component (if you see what's in it you'll be scratching your head as to why it's so expensive)

One of the contact tracks on mine was noticably dirty, but no sign of water ingress otherwise, I just cleaned up the tracks and there was clean excess contact grease around the switch which I used on the clean contacts. I used some rivets to seal the unit back up along with some hylomar on the seal and the car drives brilliantly - I wish I'd done it months ago.

About 2 hours work in it end to end, just make sure you do it before going out in the car as the exhaust is close to where you need your arms.

Rich

joe.woods
5th March 2012, 07:10 PM
Thanks to all that posted ideas and their solutions and thank you to Roger for plugging in his Nanocom, looking at the faults and sharing his knowledge. Roger like Paul did not believe the computer was to blame and the faults did not think so either. Thanks Rich for the descriptive strip down it helped immensely.

I stripped out the selector switch, drilled out the rivets and found a bit of grime around one spot there was no water, I cleaned it with contact cleaner and re-greased with dielectric grease and reassembled I bought some 5/32" counter sunk Phillips head bolts from Bunnings $3.50 instead of riveting back together; in-case dis-assembly was required again. The only issue was the Landie would not start I could not have been very diligent when marked its position, pulled the exhaust again and adjusted till it started in P and N and the R lights were on, took 2 min, bolted up test drove up the gears in and out of reverse with no flashing lights.

Once again thanks every one.

Joe

John W
7th March 2012, 12:57 AM
I wish I was so lucky. Did the same service to mine some time back but no improvement. I suspect the loom from the box to the ECU but presently lack the time and motivation to explore further.

OffTrack
7th March 2012, 06:53 AM
I wish I was so lucky. Did the same service to mine some time back but no improvement. I suspect the loom from the box to the ECU but presently lack the time and motivation to explore further.

See if you can find someone local with a Test Book/Nanocom/Hawkeye to read the EAT ECU codes.

I've posted a compilation of diagnostic flows for Disco P-codes here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostics/144559-discovery-2-p-codes.html#post1631098

Gearbox related faults include: P0600, P07xx, P188x.

You'll also need a copy of the Electrical Library pdf from RAVE (linked in the post above).

There is an overview of EAT ECU diagnostics attached to this post:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostics/136510-evo-showing-transmission-fault-2.html#post1553858

cheers
Paul

John W
7th March 2012, 08:11 PM
Thanks Paul will look into it.

John W
7th March 2012, 08:37 PM
Yep just cracked the piggy bank and ordered a nanocom. Will work out how to explain the credit card to the misery of finance when she comes home later! It had better sort all my little nagging issues

sniegy
7th March 2012, 09:44 PM
Another place to check is the metal "P" clip that sits top the transfer case, the wiring loom that runs through it which is covered in a foil type sheath can wear away & as mine did I had 2 wires cut. Same circumstances, would sometimes come on then eventually got worse.
The loom is relatively easy to remove & then resolver & fix.
HTH
Cheers.