Show stoppers

[wmd]

Hi all

I plan on slowly building a spares kit that will hopefully cover some of the major parts that can leave you stranded. in a 300tdi defender

I know there are hundreds of potential show stoppers on any vehicle .


So I am trying to make a list of parts that can be changed track side.

It might cost a bit to have it all just sitting there and the added weight but when you travel to remote places on you own it better to be prepared .

Now for all you out there with more experience what can be added to the list or taken off it?

Hoses
Belts
Wheel bearing
Uni,s
Shock ,one of each
Water pump
Alternator
Clutch master ( ?)
Vacuum pump
Thermostat

[lewy]

I am trying to do the same thing,disco just keeps eating the spares kit though.

[flagg]

Good idea for a thread. :) I would go for an alternative battery charging method over a spare alt. Much more useful.

If you carry a clutch master, carry a slave as well.

Don't forget all the usual wire, glue, bolts, etc.

Before you leave on your trip, change each item you has a spare with only the tools you take with you.

[newhue]

just a different spin on it. If you are going to buy all these parts and carry them for spares, why not replace all those parts before you go and travel lighter by leaving the old parts behind. If you have done your homework well before you go, chances are very small new parts will fail out past tim buck too, or at all.

Sure carry tools, glues, zip ties, fuses and those small things, but one could almost tow a trailer with spare parts. In my experience (non Land Rover) I have replaced all sorts of things and carried the old parts as spares only to never use them. The same for those just in case new parts.

[Josh_WA]

Don't forget the obligatory length of fencing wire.... :) so many uses when things rattle to bits.

[Sith]

Don't forget the obligatory length of fencing wire.... :) so many uses when things rattle to bits.

And you can turn it into a hook and pull spear grass out from around the exhaust before you turn it into a bbq :cool:

[Josh_WA]

And you can turn it into a hook and pull spear grass out from around the exhaust before you turn it into a bbq :cool:

Yeah good point.... we could almost have a uses of fencing wire thread, it would be almost endless.

[Reads90]

This is what I took in my 90 when I went around Australia.
Did not use any it apart from the wheel bearings. But would still take it all again. In fact still lives in the back of the car now.

Full Spare set of water hoses (euro style, so can be replaced with staight bits of hose, which can bought anywhere )

CV joint

Viscous fan,

Water pump,

Master Brake servo

Master brake cylinder

Slave cylinder

A couple of wheel bearing kits with gaskets

Stub axel

Prop UJ's

Spare rear prop, spare props bolts ( only spare prop as when I bought my 90 into Australia you could not get them for a 90 in Australia )

Alternator

Front axel brake hoses

Front breaded brake hoses.

Fan belts

Air filter

Brake pads (full set for all round)

Master clutch cylinder

5 Ltrs of Engine oil, ATF, EP90,Radiator coolant

WD 40

Brake fuid

[langy]

Grease.
(drop the vac pump.. you can use the brakes without vacuum)
Small vice grips (If a brake line fails)
(drop the heater hoses) Two 5/8 blanking plugs with jubilee clips (take up less space)
Spare diff,hub & TC output seals. ( TC seals are a mid level show stopper - if one of them go, you can limp for a fair distance. They are reasonably easy to replace provided you have a decent 1/2 inch socket set).
Hub spanner ( Grind the sides of a big ordinary screwdriver so it fits in the holes of the hub spanner - handy to use to tighten/release the hub nuts.)
9/16 12 point socket ( To get the brake calipers off if you need to do a hub)
handful of spare wheel nuts.

[Nero]

Uni,s


Wouldn't bother with unis unless you are planning to carry around a stinking great vice to assemble them with.

[wrinklearthur]

Wouldn't bother with unis unless you are planning to carry around a stinking great vice to assemble them with.

Not easy but can be done track side, in the absence of a workshop bench and vice.
You will need to use a hammer, a half inch socket set, wheel jack and a sturdy block of wood ( should be carrying those things anyway ).

Park the vehicle to be fixed over a large hole, so you can sit underneath ( in the shade ), bolt the broken UJ up to the diff flange, using a socket that just fits snug on top of the circlip, hold up in place with a bit of pressure from the wheel jack, tap the outside of the yoke opposite the the side with the socket under pressure, do this to all four caps and their circlip's so they are now loose from rust and grime, ( you will need to jack up and spin a wheel to reposition the flange aligning the caps up each time ).
Remove the circlip's and then by using your hammer, tap the propshaft yoke across, popping out one cap then the other, start with the caps in the propshaft first and finish with the caps in the flange.

If you want to save as spares any of the old needle rollers and cap's that are still ok, using the jack and socket, push the other side cap through as far as it can go, then using some multigrips, take off the protruding cap with its needles carefully and put aside in a clean safe place.
Invert the socket and using it against the exposed end of the cross, push the cross and the opposite cap, back the other way, ( you will need another socket against the first one to get enough travel, ).
Take note and mark the flange showing where the grease nipple is, so on reassembly the grease nipple is aligned correctly with the other two on the propshaft.

Assembly is the reverse procedure of all above.

When finished a couple of pumps with the grease gun and you are done in time to clean your hands for dinner.

[Reads90]

Not easy but can be done track side, in the absence of a workshop bench and vice.
You will need to use a hammer, a half inch socket set, wheel jack and a sturdy block of wood ( should be carrying those things anyway ).



Pretty much how I do it all the time anyway :-) did not have a vice at home for a long time

[strangy]

I'm going to upset a few people here but anyway.....if someone feels the need to carry half the stuff mentioned in this thread, they probably shouldn't go with that vehicle as it is.

If there is that much doubt about the longivity of master cylinders, shocks, unis, brakes then why not change them before you go?
Even if a serviceable shock breaks it isnt a show stopper.

IMO, hoses,clamps, belts, oil, water, a wheel bearing kit, tools, a tube of "Silastic" and an Epoxy "quick metal", cable ties, electrical tape, fuses, is enough for most trips anywhere in Oz with a suitably maintained vehicle.

[wmd]

your right Strangy
But no mater how new or well serviced , things will fail .

Find a vehicle that never breaks down ?

[Loubrey]

First rule of long distance remote travel is to avoid being on your own (single vehicle). Not always possible, but if you need all the spares listed on the previous posts you have to question the condition and suitability of your car...

IMO you just want the vehicle to get going again until you reach somewhere semi civilised to do proper repairs, and as we live in the 21st century this means anywhere you can receive a parcel.

A 300 Tdi would only need the spares that would stop it dead in it's tracks. A serpentine belt, spare water pump, a spare fuel filter and that's about it. Add the usual cable ties, glue, mastic, wire, jubelee clips etc and you should make it to the next post office.

I'm with Strangie on the pre-trip service on top of a well maintained service regime. Driving a Puma is a different prospect (I have one, so I'm allowed to say that!) and I know nothing about petrol Defenders, but the question was asked about a 300Tdi specifically. They are tough enough to have a temporary fix in the bush until you get to somewhere you can assess the damage and make appropriate arrangements for repair.

[Psimpson7]

just a different spin on it. If you are going to buy all these parts and carry them for spares, why not replace all those parts before you go and travel lighter by leaving the old parts behind. If you have done your homework well before you go, chances are very small new parts will fail out past tim buck too, or at all.



This in some cases is a bad idea.... the amount of people who change stuff before trips only to have the replacement fail, or not be fitted properly is way too high....

I tend to carry too much stuff, but the only thing i have ever needed in the last 3 long distance trips I have done, was a radiator due to damage.. and I didn't have one of those.

I do try and keep on top of maintenance though and change stuff pretty much straight away if I am not sure about it.

On top of Loubreys comments definetely also take a wheel bearing.. if they fail, you are in trouble. Also silicone sealant can fix a lot of stuff. It got us 200km in fnq filling up a fist sized hole in the radiator

[VladTepes]

Yeah good point.... we could almost have a uses of fencing wire thread, it would be almost endless.

As you wish !

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=1641273#post1641273

[goingbush]

.... the amount of people who change stuff before trips only to have the replacement fail, or not be fitted properly is way too high....



What The !!!

Well whats the point of carrying said spares in the first place if they are just going to fail once you use them ???

Im going away on an extended 12 month round oz trip in my 05 TD5 Defender in May / June. Im going over the whole car and replacing / upgrading everything that might need doing in the next 50,000 klm / 12 months.

Change the stuff you think will need doing NOW , before you go, and if they do fail before you go then you will be glad you can fix them now and know how to do it yourself.

No point weighing your truck down with spares, In 30+ years of trips Ive learned its a waste of money / space / weight and time taking a spare parts shop with you. Prepare your truck properly, there is a HUGE difference between Roadworthy and Bushworthy

In the case of a properly prepared vehicle there is only a handful of bits you will need to carry.

In the event you break something you didn't anticipate take a Sat Phone & a list of regional Airport FBO's tell them your going to get a part delivered and can they drop it off to your gps co-ords, might cost a grand or so but could save your life.

[roverrescue]

300tdi show stoppers.
The real show stoppers are engine no go up&down or wheels no go round&round?

Round&Round
-300tdis have an R80 gear bag. Pull off the PTO cover plate and check the gear bag main shaft for wear. If its worn replace the input gear with a drilled gear & contemplate changing out the main shaft (I wouldn't bother).

-Wheel bearings as mentioned above pretty important. Carry spares and seals. May as well fix it properly and not need to do it again.

Engine up&down
-The only ancillary you cant bodge along without for long is the waterpump. Problem is the serpentine belt relies on stable bearings and pulleys on the alternator and PS pump. Sooo, just carry some idler bearings (3204), a waterpump and a shorter belt that runs water pump off crank & idler. If/when the PS pump dies or alternator dies, shorten up the belt and keep moving. If the water pump dies well you have a spare.

- Its also not a stupid idea to carry a timing belt and a couple of pushrods and rocker arms. Bugger all weight wise and if you or another 300tdi pops its rubber band chances are a new belt and a couple of rods/arms will get you moving. This is one where I am happy with used bits. If I ever have to do a trackside t-belt repair I would definitely revisit the timing case once I get to a workshop.


The problem with changing out stuff for new before leaving is that with the quality control of "new" parts there is never a guarantee that a new part wont fail. If I could be bothered I could start a list of "new" parts that failed soon after correct fitting from timing belts to water pumps to suspension bushes.

I carry a lot of tools and workshop supplies and find myself helping others out more often than not.

I am happy to do this and ALWAYS feel useless the times we decide to have a last minute weekend up the cape. Pretty much swags, engel and fishing gear - stripped down tool kit but not long range setup. Then sure enough you come across old mate who you could have helped if only you had all the gear onboard?

Live and learn, carry a tow rope!

My opinions anyways.

Steve

[Psimpson7]

What The !!!

Well whats the point of carrying said spares in the first place if they are just going to fail once you use them ???



What didn't you get?

I said that changing parts that haven't failed just before (i.e within a couple of weeks) leaving on a trip isnt always a good idea... And..well it isn't.

I didn't say, if a part is failing, dont change it....

We had a club trip were a propshaft UJ came out on someones car because a circlip wasnt fitted properly when they changed it. Luckily it didn't really cause any drama, but that was more luck than judgement. The joints had all just been changed as preventative maintenence.

I have other examples where people have changed or upgraded parts a week or two before leaving (and in several cases, completely unnecesarily) on long trips with not great results....

As RR has also said above, new parts can fail, especially with most people choice to fit the cheapest of whatever they can find....

cheers

[goingbush]

Last two posts say it all, don't buy cheap rubbish.
If you need to rely on your Landrover only use OEM, Genuine or better, that goes for preventative mtce or for parts to keep in the spares box, whats the point in changing the part if the new rubbish is not going to last another 100,000 klm.

[roverrescue]

You can't always rely on gen-u-whine though... of my three stories (tbelt, wpump, Radius arm bushes) all came in purdy plastic bags with an expensive green sticker on the outside.

Buy cheap and you just increase the odds of doing the job again!

S

[goingbush]

You can't always rely on gen-u-whine though... of my three stories (tbelt, wpump, Radius arm bushes) all came in purdy plastic bags with an expensive green sticker on the outside.

Buy cheap and you just increase the odds of doing the job again!

S

Tell me about it, I had a genuine Toyota Timing belt & Tensioner fail 20,000 klm later & turn my 80 series TD into scrap value on the Cape Leveque road !!
Lucky i had a satphone !!!

[2stroke]

Weren't the idlers 6203? One thing I found handy is the grey 15a clipsal terminal strip (593/15). The little brass screws fit nicely inside the flared ends of steel brake lines, if you need to disconnect a brake or 2.

[roverrescue]

Ahhhh, yeah that four digit number that defines a bearing. Your probably right 2stroke!
Ive never been known for me memory

S