Electronic distributor setup - advice please

[pfillery]

I'm thinking about an electronic dizzy for my series 3 with the holden 186. I'm tossing up between an original used bosch unit and some of the new electronic setups you can buy, I take it the proper bosch would be easier to get parts for than some of the chinese made ones?

What I don't know, and hopefully someone can explain because I really haven't had to do a lot of work on the motor, is to fit an electronic distributor, how easy is the fitting, setup etc? Sellers all claim it fits straight in out of the box and are ready to run, but looking at the gear on the bottom, is there a particular way these are supposed to fit in (considering they can go in any position)? This may seem like a stupid question but as I said, I haven't previously had a lot to do with holden motors or fitting or removing distributors. Obviously there are no points to be adjusted but one needs to be sure that when the motor is in a certain position, the dizzy is firing in that same spot too.

Any tips for the mechanically inept?

[bee utey]

Timing 101: set the engine to no.1 at a few degrees BTDC BEFORE removing the distributor, then work out where no.1 is on the replacement dissy body, install the dissy so the rotor lines up with no.1 cylinder mark and the pickup teeth are aligned. You will need a timing light to set the timing accurately after starting.

The sellers are broadly correct in saying it is a plug-n-play item but you are better off running a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil positive terminal, removing any ballast resistor from the circuit. Chinese distributors are an unknown quality, I would rather buy a good used OEM dissy, install a new genuine Bosch ignition module and install with a matching coil. Do not under any circumstances use a points coil with the electronic dissy. Fit a new plastic drive gear or a steel gear off an oil pump or your old dissy if so fitted. The plastic drive gears have a use-by date and will break.

If you doubt your ability to do any of this ask an auto electrician to fit one for you, then its his fault if he stuffs up.

[Wolfman_TWP]

I put one of these into my LR with Holden 186 Red Motor. The motor now starts first go, and runs like a charm.. Sorry, tried to get the picture of it only, but I could only get the link. But will give you an idea what is available. This is a complete kit, with the dissy, leads and coil, all ready to go. The kit is a little expensive, but well worth it. No more points to replace, and stuff up at the wrong time.

HOLDEN 6CYL COIL IGNITION LEADS ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-6CYL-COIL-IGNITION-LEADS-ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-/120863136876?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c24011c6c)

Found some photos I took of the exact same kit, I installed on my 186 Red Motor.


Wolf

[MuckUte]

I wouldn't waste my money on one of the knock-off distributors, they aren't known for being very reliable.

When buying a HEI dizzy try to get one that comes complete with cap, leads and coil. If you can look at it before purchasing check to see that there is not to much play in the shaft either up and down or side to side.

To get the new distributor timed right, start with you old one and pull the cap off but don't loosen the retaining bolt, rotate the engine by hand until the notch in the middle of the rotor button lines up with the notch in the outside of the distributor housing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/602.jpg

On the points dizzy the notch is fainter but still near the vac advance unit. If your old dizzy was installed correctly this mark should also line up with your number 1 spark plug lead, It would pay to check this now as you will need to match this on the new distributor.

Now you can remove the old distributor and chuck it in the bin but keep the bracket and bolt that hold it down.

Now install the new distributor. When fitting make sure the vac advance unit and the ignition module are clear of the block so there is room to adjust the timing. Once you get the two notches lined up tighten the mounting bolt and on with the cap and leads.

Mount the new coil, the green wire from the dizzy goes to the -ve terminal on the coil and the brown goes to the +ve terminal along with your power feed from the ignition. These HEI distributors need a full 12v so if you have either a resistaance feed wire or an inline resistor now is the time to bypass these.

All that is left now is to turn the key and fire it up. I would still check the timing to make sure it is spot on.

If it doesn't start, first off check you have spark by taking one of the spark plugs out and with the lead connected with the threaded section grounded crank it over, there should be a nice fat spark. If you have no spark check for 12 volts at the coil, if you have power then there is a problem either with the coil or the ignition module in the distributor. The coil can be checked with a multimeter but i'm not sure about testing the module but a google search should turn something up.

If you have spark check the firing order and timing and make sure there is still fuel in the tank ;)

[Wolfman_TWP]

I wouldn't waste my money on one of the knock-off distributors, they aren't known for being very reliable.

When buying a HEI dizzy try to get one that comes complete with cap, leads and coil. If you can look at it before purchasing check to see that there is not to much play in the shaft either up and down or side to side.

To get the new distributor timed right, start with you old one and pull the cap off but don't loosen the retaining bolt, rotate the engine by hand until the notch in the middle of the rotor button lines up with the notch in the outside of the distributor housing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/602.jpg

On the points dizzy the notch is fainter but still near the vac advance unit. If your old dizzy was installed correctly this mark should also line up with your number 1 spark plug lead, It would pay to check this now as you will need to match this on the new distributor.

Now you can remove the old distributor and chuck it in the bin but keep the bracket and bolt that hold it down.

Now install the new distributor. When fitting make sure the vac advance unit and the ignition module are clear of the block so there is room to adjust the timing. Once you get the two notches lined up tighten the mounting bolt and on with the cap and leads.

Mount the new coil, the green wire from the dizzy goes to the -ve terminal on the coil and the brown goes to the +ve terminal along with your power feed from the ignition. These HEI distributors need a full 12v so if you have either a resistaance feed wire or an inline resistor now is the time to bypass these.

All that is left now is to turn the key and fire it up. I would still check the timing to make sure it is spot on.

If it doesn't start, first off check you have spark by taking one of the spark plugs out and with the lead connected with the threaded section grounded crank it over, there should be a nice fat spark. If you have no spark check for 12 volts at the coil, if you have power then there is a problem either with the coil or the ignition module in the distributor. The coil can be checked with a multimeter but i'm not sure about testing the module but a google search should turn something up.

If you have spark check the firing order and timing and make sure there is still fuel in the tank ;)

For me to setup the timing properly, was that I have had 2 HR's. So I still have the original workshop manuals. I did the same thing that you suggested. Mine fired up first go. It just needed fine tuning as per HR manual. On my kit, the coil bolted up in the original Holden coil position. Which was great. And all leads were perfectly sized up for the spark plug positions. I'm so happy with this kit, that I've ordered another for the 202 in the other Landy..

Wolf

[pfillery]

I wound up getting a tested bosch unit with cap, leads and coil for $100 which compared to the $125 and up for the Chinese made ones was pretty good. Just out of interest does anyone know the ignition module part number for these at all? I might replace it to be on the safe side then I'll have the old one as a spare. Obviously time will tell if the cap and leads are ok and I'd say I'll put new plugs on too (ones that are better for the running on gas).

I have a copy of the 186 manual so hopefully fine tuning data will be there. Will have a play once it arrives.

Also I can't see any sign of a ballast resistor so hopefully should get a good 12v at the coil already, will check this though, I'm a bit reluctant to run a relay - in my mind another thing that can go wrong and overcomplicating what should be a very simple system.


I wouldn't waste my money on one of the knock-off distributors, they aren't known for being very reliable.

When buying a HEI dizzy try to get one that comes complete with cap, leads and coil. If you can look at it before purchasing check to see that there is not to much play in the shaft either up and down or side to side.

To get the new distributor timed right, start with you old one and pull the cap off but don't loosen the retaining bolt, rotate the engine by hand until the notch in the middle of the rotor button lines up with the notch in the outside of the distributor housing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/602.jpg

On the points dizzy the notch is fainter but still near the vac advance unit. If your old dizzy was installed correctly this mark should also line up with your number 1 spark plug lead, It would pay to check this now as you will need to match this on the new distributor.

Now you can remove the old distributor and chuck it in the bin but keep the bracket and bolt that hold it down.

Now install the new distributor. When fitting make sure the vac advance unit and the ignition module are clear of the block so there is room to adjust the timing. Once you get the two notches lined up tighten the mounting bolt and on with the cap and leads.

Mount the new coil, the green wire from the dizzy goes to the -ve terminal on the coil and the brown goes to the +ve terminal along with your power feed from the ignition. These HEI distributors need a full 12v so if you have either a resistaance feed wire or an inline resistor now is the time to bypass these.

All that is left now is to turn the key and fire it up. I would still check the timing to make sure it is spot on.

If it doesn't start, first off check you have spark by taking one of the spark plugs out and with the lead connected with the threaded section grounded crank it over, there should be a nice fat spark. If you have no spark check for 12 volts at the coil, if you have power then there is a problem either with the coil or the ignition module in the distributor. The coil can be checked with a multimeter but i'm not sure about testing the module but a google search should turn something up.

If you have spark check the firing order and timing and make sure there is still fuel in the tank ;)

[bee utey]

Bosch BIM024 module was made for these distributors. Put a new genuine one in the dissy and keep the old one as a spare. Set the idle timing to around 8-10 degrees BTDC.