2010 D4 3.0 SE replacement steering & tyres

[timg]

I thought I would share my recent experiences with my beloved D4:-

Last month I had a slight shudder when braking at 110km/h. It was due for its 26k service so I mentioned it to the dealer (Purnell). I was told the steering rack needed replacement (including steering wheel). Apparently it is a known issue although I thought it was just the brake pads or rotors. The steering was replaced (over 2 days) under warranty and the shudder has gone !! All is good again.

Then yesterday I replaced the 4 x OE Wrangler tyres with the same type again. I only got 30k out of them which I thought was a bit low considering I have done 99% bitumen work so far. The Goodyear shop mentioned the tyre wear showed bad wheel alignment. The dealer had quoted $600 each but I got a good deal with the local Goodyear Autocare shop - buy 4 for the price of 3. They were $506 each fitted plus wheel alignment. Interestingly though the Goodyear shop said the D4 needed to go to the dealer to be put in limp mode so the wheel alignment could be done correctly. Luckily there is a dealer close by (Hunter Prestige) and they did this at no charge. I hadn't heard or read about this before. The message on the display said "Air Suspension not in Customer Mode".

[discotwinturbo]

I have a shudder breaking down a steep hill. Was going to get pads and rotors checked out. Only down 9500km.

I have had a wheel alignment by someone that has done a few D4's. No issues at all and no limp mode reqd. Tracks perfectly when driving.

[WhiteD3]

I've got a shudder too at 22,000. Service due in May.

[drowell]

Curious. I am overly fussy with wobbles and alignment and my D4 is the best car I have ever had. I put Bridgestone Desert Duelers on my XC90 which wasn't ever designed for off road and it needed a balance every 5000 or so. I had a BA Falcon prior and it needed the discs skimming every 5000 to 10000 . It was horrible. The Volvo only got 30000 out of a set of disc rotors so when it was due for the third set at 60000, I was convinced to put DBA rotors on. Same brand as the Falcon - absolutely horrible.
My point is that my D4 is great at 37000 km with the std tyres or the alternate wheels which have GY MTRs on. Bloody noisy but they track fine. The car has done some pretty rough stuff too. 9200km through the Oodnadatta, Strzelecki and Birdsville tracks including the Simpson Desert. Some good ones and some not so good I guess.
I hope you. Get yours sorted. Otherwise a lovely car.

[Disco4SE]

Just about to clock over 90,000 Klm's in my D4.
Never had a shudder or balance problem.

Cheers, Craig

[BobD]

The dealer told me that my January 2010 registered D4 had a new steering rack, new brake rotors, new suspension bushes and some new stuff on the steering wheel before I bought it, due to the shuddering brakes problem. At 64,000 they are just faintly shuddering again when braking on a hill at speed. Don't know what mileage the work was done at, though.

[irondoc]

My 2011 2.7 D4 had a shudder when i turned the wheel - steering was "greased and tightened" initially, that didn't help and the steering column was replaced. Dealer said if it didn't fix it, I would need a new steering rack. It is better, but the shuddering is still there a tiny bit.

When i go for next service, I will ask them to replace the steering rack
cheers
lucas

[White D4]

Hi All, I just had my 2010 TDV6 in for it's 60k service and asked again for the third time to have the vibration that still comes through the steering wheel fixed once and for all.

I was told it was my brakes, new brakes fitted still there, then it was my Continental Cross Contact ATR tyres, not the case as still did it with original wranglers fitted.

Turns out that there is an issue logged by Land Rover UK that if this occurs then the steering wheel, hydra bushes, column and power steering unit required replacing under warranty. Took 2 days and now vibration has gone thank goodness.

Land Rover were very good about it but his taken over 12months to finally fix.

Cheers
Paul

[Beamin]

Last month I had a slight shudder when braking at 110km/h. It was due for its 26k service so I mentioned it to the dealer (Purnell). I was told the steering rack needed replacement (including steering wheel). Apparently it is a known issue although I thought it was just the brake pads or rotors. The steering was replaced (over 2 days) under warranty and the shudder has gone !! All is good again.

Interesting. I have started getting a wobble in the steering wheel when braking at 110km/h. No sign of it when cruising at that speed or any other speed, or when braking around town. First noticed it at a bit over 60,000km. I had it looked at yesterday by a LR workshop and the diagnosis is that there is a problem with the wheels. The fix involves some sort of high-speed balancing of the wheels by a specialist workshop that will take a week to complete(!!??) The LR guy was quite certain it was not a brake issue and previous attempts to fix this problem by changing the brakes have not been successful. He didn't mention the steering rack/bushes, etc but said this is the 4th set of wheels they've had to send away for this work.

Has anybody else heard of this fix? I can't tell you whether it works as I haven't had it done yet. It will be a couple of months before I can leave the car with the dealer for a week, but I'll report back when it's done.

[Disco4SE]

I had my front lower hyrdo bushes replaced @ 67K but didn't notice a wobble prior to this.
Apparently the OEM hydro bushes are inferior and they replace them with some you bute neoprene ones.

Not far off 100K now and all good.

Cheers, Craig

[Robocop]

Is this what I'm to expect next? I should've just kept my Defender. At least I could service it myself!!!

[discojools]

No wobbles from my D4 with 50k on.. Had a slight wobble on my RRS TDV8 after the discs were changed at 70k. Very slight though. Car gone now ..quite sad... Have Def 90 for wife now. Bit of a change!

[disco4me]

Hi All, I just had my 2010 TDV6 in for it's 60k service and asked again for the third time to have the vibration that still comes through the steering wheel fixed once and for all.

I was told it was my brakes, new brakes fitted still there, then it was my Continental Cross Contact ATR tyres, not the case as still did it with original wranglers fitted.

Turns out that there is an issue logged by Land Rover UK that if this occurs then the steering wheel, hydra bushes, column and power steering unit required replacing under warranty. Took 2 days and now vibration has gone thank goodness.

Land Rover were very good about it but his taken over 12months to finally fix.

Cheers
Paul
Hi Paul,
I'm interested in your findings. I had mine in for a vibration early on at cruising speed (around 110) which I thought was the dash. They pulled it to bits and reassembled it but the vibration was still there so they ended up replacing the cowling under warranty. Needless to say the vibration and buzz through the dash is back even to a level where my wife can notice it in the passenger seat. On a long drive up to Exmouth I used the time to try andfound out where the culprit was and I found that if I pushd the steering wheel up towards the dash the vibration/noise went away.

Could this be the same issue? As a side line I have developed a "bump" in the steering on right hand turns very noticable on small roundabouts. Not sure if they are related to each other

Cheers,
John

[White D4]

Hi John

I dont have a bump and the shudder is gone but i do have the slight vidration back, i have determined it is something under the dash but have not been able to locate it, its not that bad and is only really heard now on smooth surfaces, i have been advised it might be my all terains as they can be noisey.

Cheers
Paul

[GregMilner]

I've had the steering, brake discs, column and wheel replaced twice under warranty, about a year apart, because of a slight wheel wobble under light braking from freeway speeds. The dealer said it was a common problem known to LR and they had had to do it on a number of discos and RRSs from 2010 model year on. Seems to be okay on mine now. Mostly. The last replacement was a couple of months ago.
They seem to be very good with their warranty work, no arguments, they just do it.

[dk71]

[QUOTE=drowell;1649500] I had a BA Falcon prior and it needed the discs skimming every 5000 to 10000 . It was horrible.


Had same, xr8 and with the extra weight on the front end, brakes were useless. Miss the v8 roar with the manual though.


Slightly off topic, but have d4se and lost an original wrangler the other week with a bit of limestone through the top, not the sidewall. Tyre guy says he hasn't seen anything like it before, just my luck. An inch cut, in the middle, through the wires. The local tyre bloke has been looking for a 20k or thereabouts to replace because a patch is not an option.

1. Anyone got a spare after their recent move to new boots, best I put two tyres with similar tread depth than one? I am in Adelaide, but Melbourne would work for a pickup.

2. What's the prefered tyre now, for 90% black stuff but with enough grip that I don't embarrass myself when I go off road? See cooper have released a 19" and others have talked about the general and the Pirelli's

If I can't get a second hand with similar depth, will it cause any problems, or just advance wear on what is left on the originals?

Thanks

D

[Celtoid]

[QUOTE=drowell;1649500] I had a BA Falcon prior and it needed the discs skimming every 5000 to 10000 . It was horrible.


Had same, xr8 and with the extra weight on the front end, brakes were useless. Miss the v8 roar with the manual though.


Slightly off topic, but have d4se and lost an original wrangler the other week with a bit of limestone through the top, not the sidewall. Tyre guy says he hasn't seen anything like it before, just my luck. An inch cut, in the middle, through the wires. The local tyre bloke has been looking for a 20k or thereabouts to replace because a patch is not an option.

1. Anyone got a spare after their recent move to new boots, best I put two tyres with similar tread depth than one? I am in Adelaide, but Melbourne would work for a pickup.

2. What's the prefered tyre now, for 90% black stuff but with enough grip that I don't embarrass myself when I go off road? See cooper have released a 19" and others have talked about the general and the Pirelli's

If I can't get a second hand with similar depth, will it cause any problems, or just advance wear on what is left on the originals?

Thanks

D

Hey mate,

On the Wranglers......quite frankly they are crap in retrospect!!!!

I found mine really good on the road, surprising in the offroad stuff I tackled (except mud) but then started getting punctures once the tread got below 60%. Two in one weekend on gravel roads....right through the tread.

At $600 a pop (I believe), it's pretty rich!!!

I changed to Scorpion ATRs and haven't looked back. Drive on the road is different but not in a bad way...they feel stronger....more rigid.

Grip on road is just as good, although maybe a fraction noisier....a fraction.

Off road, the ATRs are much, much better.

I still think that they are too exy but money well spent compared to the Wranglers.

I haven't had them long enough to know but I believe that they wear better and are not prone to getting punctures at any stage in their life.

Cheers,

Kev.

[Beamin]

I had mine in for a vibration early on at cruising speed (around 110) which I thought was the dash. They pulled it to bits and reassembled it but the vibration was still there so they ended up replacing the cowling under warranty. Needless to say the vibration and buzz through the dash is back even to a level where my wife can notice it in the passenger seat.

Getting a bit off-topic, but I had a buzz in the dash that was eventually traced to a loose glovebox. Not the lid, but the glovebox itself. Tightened up and the buzz has never returned.

However, this topic seems to be about a different problem, a wobble felt through the steering wheel typically when braking at freeway speeds, unlikely to be fixed by tightening the glovebox.

[Beamin]

I'm curious why the steering wheel gets replaced in this job. I can understand the rack and the bushes, but why the steering wheel? Does anyone know?

[irondoc]

My problem ended up being some sort of earth wire/strap rubbing on the steering column.......

[GregMilner]

The steering problem has ended up being the least of problems on my car. LRA are shipping a whole new engine under warranty for mine, after only 30,000kms.

[discotwinturbo]

Greg, you have certainly been through the wars with your sport.
Let's hope after this, you have years of trouble free motoring.
I had a D2 2.5lt 5 cylinder new in 2000.....at 76 kms on the clock (not 76000) it went bang. It was a tough decision to come back to LR after having a trouble free Nissan and VW.....touch wood so far so good.

Brett.....

[chr9]

Looks like an old thread but let me add anyway because I found this helpful.

I am running a D4 2012, just about 6 months old and 12k down the clock.

It started 3 weeks after the purchase with some clicking noises from the steering and it took 3 shop visits and the vehicle being towed to find that the steering track rod was loose.

Since then I have been struggling with steering wobble - several wheel balances, which helped a little but did not eliminate it and it is still going. There is a service bulletin however many of the parts that should be replaced are apparently already re-done for my model.

Up for another check-in with the shop in 2 weeks let's hope this will get me closer to a fix.