I just want to understand why..

[marco110]

Hi

I explain my problem:
fault code: P0625, ok, but: 14.4V the alternator load normally and suddenly, 13.2v and warning light lights up!
I switch on all the lights, the rear defrost and heat fully (high Consumption electric), warning light goes off, and read again 14.4v ???????????
This should not be the opposite?
no leakage of electric current to the battery, and despite the warning red light, alternator charging properly with a minimum 13.7V without Consumption electric .........
alternator died said my reparator , but another problem? Wath the .......? https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/926.jpg

regards

marc

[Graeme]

The brushes could be worn or sticking or the regulator could be faulty.

[marco110]

Hi

Yep , it's the regulator !

unit HS, but impossible to find spare parts!! :mad:
need to buy a new one , so 388€ ....

For "help" other D3 owner :
Function hidden Auto-radio

Turn on the radio,
Press once for 20s on the right button (display VIN)
Support a 2nd time for 20s, then with the right button, move to the left ..

You should see a choice, Voltage or something with style 130, then right onto the engine off battery voltage and engine running.

for me :
engine off : 12.5
engine running : 14.6

When red light come on : 13.2.....sometimes : 12.2 :mad:

Fault code is PO625 , erased with my FCR , but come back after "few" time...

1 hour to take off the alternator ...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/924.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=414&u=11171791)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/925.jpg (http://www.servimg.com/image_preview.php?i=413&u=11171791)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/d3-d4-rrs/44457d1331509569-i-just-want-understand-why-sam_0641.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

Id be checking each and every earth and each and every electrical connector between the Alternator the battery and the ECU prior to rebuilding the alternator.

yours is electronically controlled and it may be reading phantom voltages.


Landrover were crap at electrics when they didnt matter and are no better now that they do.

[Graeme]

Were all the mounting bolts tight?

[marco110]

Thank you all.
I did control my electrical system: everything is ok: no current leakage, earth ok ......I have all the technical book for the D3 (if it's someone interested let me know, I can give to you)
Anyway, I order a new alternator, my "concerns" is that I regret that we can not buy spare parts!

I keep my old alternator and continue my search, it will serve as spare parts ...
Nobody knows where to find the regulator for these models?

Regards

Marc.

[unseenone]

The parts can be obtained. Based on a conversation on the subject, the company I talked to could supply the parts, but gave a number of reasons which I cannot recall now, why it was not a good idea to try to rebuild our particular alternator.

They build custom alternator solutions, such as high amperage, custom made alternators, double alternators, and much more. Amperage has high as 300. Custom mounting / installations such as double and triple alternators. My impression is that they know their stuff.

I don't know if they export, but if something turns up, and you need stateside assistance let me know.

In any event, if you are determined, here is a starting point;

Alternator Parts, REGULATORS, RECTIFIERS, PULLEYS, BEARINGS, REPAIR KITS, NATIONS AUTO ELECTRIC (http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/altparts.html)

Nation Starter & Alternator,Tractor Auto,Marine,Truck,Small Engine (http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/)

[marco110]

Hi

Thank you!
I will visit the website!
Surely as I need you, my English is limited!

regards

Marc.

[unseenone]

I found this "how to" guide to replace the diodes. It may help in your search to repair alternators. They picked up the parts for this job at http://www.woodauto.com/ in the UK.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11480/Replacing_the_Diode_Pack_on_A_Denso_Alternator.pdf

[bbyer]

I did a bit of mostly unsuccessful looking for parts re the alternator on my 4.4L petrol V8 LR3. As such, I was most impressed re the above post showing repair of the diode assembly. I might add that when I tried to pull apart my alternator, about all I succeeded at was in destroying the small Phillips screw heads; hence I was not too successful at disassembly. I turned it into a big deal.

I am also not convinced that the internal electrical design of the regulator has not been upgraded in some subtle manner from the early production units; from what is called an A design to a B design if it can be said that even applies to these PWM controlled units.

In my searching, I was however able to determine the regulator type now to be Transpo part number IN6349; and per the pdf link following, the pin layout is provided. http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15405/Regulator_Plug_IN6349_drawing12.pdf

The pdf shows both the Land Rover and Ford pin naming for the 3 pins when looking into the receptacle of the Transpo IN6349 regulator.

Also provided are the Transpo pin names that are in common use and that some may be more familiar with plus some comments re a Ford testing procedure that requires some specialized analyzer.

The pin numbering and order is different on the 4.0 petrol V6 but below seems to apply for all the other engines.

The pin on the far left is called #1 in the LR electrical wiring diagrams and is Battery Voltage Sensing, (BVS); the middle pin, #2 receives a Pulse Width Modulated, (PWM), signal from the Engine Control Module, (ECM), and the right pin, #3 sends a PWM signal back to the ECM. Terminal Pin #2 on the LR wiring diagrams is called Alternator Control or ALT CON; Pin #3 per LR is called Alternator Monitoring or ALT MON.

Pin #1 is similar to what in older designs used to be called A or Batt, and now S or Sensing and in this design; it also provides power to excite the alternator at startup until the PWM instructions over ride the battery voltage info. Land Rover calls the electronics under the pins a Smart Regulator, ironic, as it has to follow orders from the ECM rather than give the orders - new age thinking I guess. This is different from older design internal regulators that look at just the battery or the electrical buss voltage and then decides itself what to do.

It is almost like we are back to the external regulator designs of old, except that the ECM may decide instead of telling the alternator to make more power, to instead, load shed, and hence shut down the heated windscreen, seats, or whatever other electrical loads it decides are appropriate. My view is that the "smarts" are in the ECM and that the "regulator" should be regarded as dumb.

[RFollia]

I've used www.woodauto.com some times to completely rebuild ad unobtanium-made YLE10113 alternator (MM A127 from a RRC).
However, regarding the D3 alternator it might (I underline it) possible to swap rectifier with that of th Ford Focus and Volvo one.
External unit appearance is different, BUT:
-Both are Denso
-Both put up the same output (150a)
-Both are from the same family (I mean, 104210****)
The D3 V8 one is 1042103690 and 1042103691
The Focus one is 1042103521
Even the regulator plug looks the same but exits in a different position

According to that guy (see video)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=playe...WUiBwP_4Q# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=tuWUiBwP_4Q#)!
the rectifier is the same for all the alternator families, the only thing that changes is the battery post (M6, M8, and the length of it). BUT you can swap the terminal from your old unit into the new one (as he says in the video)
The only thing to check is if the rectifier's dimensions are the same and it phisically fits
in theory going from that big family of alts
the regulator could be Denso OEM 1266003640 or VRG47325 (from woodauto). Will not fot as the plug exits in a different angle, but maybe internals could be swapped.

and the rectifier diode pack RTF40173 from woodauto too
You can see it in ebay as well, even with the video together
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-C-MAX...23265bdf01 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-FOCUS-C-MAX-VOLVO-S40-ALTERNATOR-RECTIFIER-TO-FIT-DENSO-ALTERNATOR-/150967410433?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23265bdf01)
The dimensions, appearance and layout look nearly the same as the one in Flack's pdf in disco3.co.uk

Some more news,
looking for Transpo IN6349 I found the Denso OEM equivalent
which turns out to be 1266003490
and googling that code there's somebody out there who stocks it
ERA EC (http://www.eraspares.com/ec/TabelloneCategoria.asp?IdCategoria=1502&Pagina=78#)

Cheers from Spain and Happy new Year to all of you

[RFollia]

Well,
some more news about the ubiquitous D3 Denso Regulator.
Seems the chinese are taking up!
Welcome To OESD -- NIS-349 (http://www.oesd.com.tw/front/bin/ptdetail.phtml?Part=nis349&Category=321715)

Cheers from the other side of the pond
Robert

[timdo1]

Hi everyone,

I think the alternator on my wifes has just gone. The output voltage is fluctuating between 13.3 and 10 so i guess the regulator is stuffed. I spoke to the dealer and they said $408 for a rebuild. That seems a bit high, can we replace the regulator or not? Where do i find one in Melbourne? A rough idea of price would be great

Thanks for your help.

Tim