View Full Version : Cracked Flexplate With Audio
999
17th March 2012, 09:25 AM
My D2 (TD5 Auto) has been of the road for a 2 1/2 weeks now.
First I had to get it trayed home (Fuel Pump died), I replaced the pump and was back on the road. But going to work accelerating on to east link my motor did not sound right no loss of power or anything so I turned up the radio :shock: (yes ignorance is bliss). Well I got home that night and terrible racket my d2 was making was still there.
I had a suggestion that it could be the the timing chain tensioned, so I checked that out and it all seemed good. The noise was coming from the back of TD5 near the bell housing I was thinking big end bearings, bent conrods, cracked pistons, broken valves or springs.
I left it for a week and this morning I pulled the inspection plate of the bell housing and this is what I found
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/696.jpg
Here a video to emphasize the racket a broken flex plate may sound like
Broken Flexplate :: flpate audio video by 2000cats - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid204.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid204.photobucket.com/albums/bb241/2000cats/Broken%20Flexplate/MVI_1932.mp4@@AMEPARAM@@vid204@@AMEPARAM@@204@@AME PARAM@@bb241/2000cats/Broken%20Flexplate/MVI_1932@@AMEPARAM@@mp4
So my question is is this a driveway fix or am I better to pay a mechanic/transmission specialist if so any recommendations in Melbourne.
It'sNotWorthComplaining!
17th March 2012, 09:49 AM
if you can take the Auto and transfer case out from the vehicle then it could be done in a drive way, but they are very heavy, once the auto is removed a flex plate is relatively easy to replace, The Flex plate unbolts from the converter, and the converter is pryed back into the bell house on the auto,and removed with the auto ,strap it in place to stop it falling out and retain fluid.
The flex plate is bolted to the crank at rear of engine.
it's all do'able depending on tools and experience, but it's a big job in a drive way.
Blknight.aus
17th March 2012, 11:43 AM
depends on what tooling youve got in your garage and how many mates you have to help out.
If you can pull a trans or an engine its an in driveway job.
999
17th March 2012, 12:01 PM
I reckon I'll give a go myself, even though I don't have a garage or a shed. It will have to be done on some yellow tongue flooring laid on top of the gravel drive.
With the money I save from labor I should be able to go shopping at Ashcroft's and put in a uprated torque converter and front cdl housing at the same time.:D
I'll just need to by a trans jack or an adapter.
lewy
17th March 2012, 01:10 PM
how many labour hours would it take in a proper auto shop,surely not long with the correct equiptment.
999
17th March 2012, 02:56 PM
Probably at least 6 hours plus fluids and filters. It will probably take me a full weekend.
Barefoot Dave
17th March 2012, 05:09 PM
999, the long answer will be posted as soon as I shift house and compile a tutorial on Remove and Replace a ZF from a D2. In driveway WITHOUT special tools. It will be called 'An Idiots Guide (because you have to be!)'
Mate, It can be done. Somebody here recently posted it takes them 2.5 hours?!
MR Automotive quotes $1000/ 10hours with all the good gear and a couple of helping hands.
Unless you've done this before/ have the time (more like 20hrs for unskilled)/ have a replacement car/ are prepared for a lot of frustration along the way, then pay the nice man the money!
If that doesn't disuade you, search for my recent thread 'What to do while the Autobox is off' for a list of also-check items.
I ended up doing the Rear Main seal and Torque convertor Oil seal. Time constraints prevented me doing the intermediate housing seal.
PM if you need more info.
Dave.
999
17th March 2012, 05:37 PM
^^I must be a sucker for punishment, I own a land rover:o. I'm lucky that I have alternative transport so I'm not constrained by time. It would be easy to drop it into a shop and leave it for someone else to fix, but I'd rather spend the money on extra parts. I've already changed the head. It cant be much worse. At least you can work while lying down.
Rear main seal was on already on the cards the cards while I had it out and anything else I can get to, Maybe I'll get the prop shafts rebuilt and balanced as well while shes off the road.
Blknight.aus
17th March 2012, 06:08 PM
good plan, my last auto swap out took 8 hours in the yard
Oaka
17th March 2012, 06:16 PM
I say go for it. It is an Australian tradition for the underqualified to attempt the unlikely in their backyard.:D Just work safely and enjoy the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
mattg
17th March 2012, 07:12 PM
999 thanks for the Video that might explain a the racket my truck makes as well.
I'm with you I would rather by the tools and some extra toys then pay the nice man.
I like your point about lying down.
I'll check mine tomorrow now I have heard yours.
Murray from MJ Discovery in Coffs Harbour fits 2 pressure plates to stop it happening again. anyone heard of this and how does everything go back together?
cheers
Matt
999
17th March 2012, 07:22 PM
thanks for the Video
That is one of the main reasons for my post. I searched for quite a while for video or audio of TD5 cracked FP and all I could find was a few YouTube videos of American trucks with the same issue. So I made a point to record the racket for any other LR owners benefit. Wish you luck in your search for your issue.
northiam
17th March 2012, 07:24 PM
Would removing the engine be easier for the backyarder?
mattg
17th March 2012, 07:54 PM
Would removing the engine be easier for the backyarder?
How do you figure that when you need an engine hoist for that and that is not good on a gravel drive. an adapter on a trolly jack for the auto has to be easier doesn't it
a question for the planning, would you take the tranny out with the transfer case still attached or the the transfer out first?
??
Matt
mattg
17th March 2012, 07:58 PM
Cheaper then I thought, if you have the jack already
TRANSMISSION JACK ADAPTER 500KG GEARBOX TROLLEY NEW!! | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRANSMISSION-JACK-ADAPTER-500KG-GEARBOX-TROLLEY-NEW-/200388750773?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea819adb5#ht_4539wt_956)
might get one myself.
Matt
northiam
17th March 2012, 08:06 PM
If the gentleman has a gravel driveway he may have a tree or overhead beam to use this!
Block and Tackle Chain Block Hoist 1 Ton NEW in box | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Block-and-Tackle-Chain-Block-Hoist-1-Ton-NEW-box-/130601992940?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e687c42ec)
Blknight.aus
17th March 2012, 08:10 PM
depends on the adaptors youve got or made.
It can be easier to pull the engine but as a backyarder it depends on what youve got to work with and what you're willing to spend.
IMHO its about 50/50 as to which is easier to pull in the box v engine stakes but my preference is to pull the engine unless the gearbox or Tcase need to come out for repair.
In this case I'd be pulling the engine because doing so makes accessing the sump gasket easier, and will allow you easier access to the cooler for flushing reasons. It also means no chance of dropping the TC and it still leaves good access to the front of the Auto and the TC if you decide to rework the front seals.
999
17th March 2012, 09:32 PM
I know its going to be hard work. I've always done my own repairs, ever since I had to replace the cv and passenger side lower wish bone of my father's Subaru when I was 18. (something about grassed bushland tree stumps and P platers) only time I've rolled both front tires off the rims.:twisted:
I've also had to replace a upper front ball joint on a WB van on the street (that was an eye opener having a front left wheel drop up under the front guard on the bend of Sydney Rd just before Pentridge) Ah to be young again.
So I'm not too daunted by the task at hand. Whether I rip the motor or attack from underneath seems here nor there to me.
Davo
18th March 2012, 01:12 AM
It is an Australian tradition for the underqualified to attempt the unlikely in their backyard.
We have the quote of the year! You've just described my entire adult life. I'm framing that and putting it up in my carport.
mattg
18th March 2012, 07:17 AM
We have the quote of the year! You've just described my entire adult life. I'm framing that and putting it up in my carport.
I agree Dave. true Genius at work.:D
Tank
18th March 2012, 10:40 AM
How do you figure that when you need an engine hoist for that and that is not good on a gravel drive. an adapter on a trolly jack for the auto has to be easier doesn't it
a question for the planning, would you take the tranny out with the transfer case still attached or the the transfer out first?
??
Matt
Then how the hell are you going to move a jack with a 100++kilos of gearbox balancing on a gravel driveway, engine out is the easist and quickest, can always roll the car back with the engine on the hoist, Regards Frank.
justfishing
18th March 2012, 11:30 AM
Hello,
I did mine in the garage up on 4 axle stands and tranfer box first then the auto box be careful of the wiring loom it is very short as it is attached to the transfer case, I managed to pull it all out from the gearbox ecu not good hours of joining wires. anyway, very do able takes 2 full 10 hours days not a quick job just mesure the TC from the face to the face of the bell housing as the TC goes down 3 times the last one is a little tricky also before you start REMOVE your crank sensor with all the jigging around on and off it gets broken, I found out the hard way.I changed all the input and out seals while it was out on both gear boxes
Hope this helps
Ian
Pierre
18th March 2012, 06:17 PM
It's easier on a TD5 than a V8... there are fewer bolts to undo. It's just fiddly and "H"eavy.
Pete
999
18th March 2012, 06:29 PM
I'll definitely be making up an adapter to facilitate the removal of the transmission. I don't plan on trying to balance it on a trolly jack.
I'll make up a scissor lift contraption with a cheap bottle jack, scrap steel, timber and threaded rod.
Blknight.aus
18th March 2012, 06:39 PM
I reckon you want to make that onto a trolly jack...
999
18th March 2012, 09:44 PM
I reckon if I make something like this I shouldn't have to many issues.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/623.jpg
mattg
19th March 2012, 05:21 AM
If you can make that then changing a tranny wouldn't be to hard.
cheers
Matt
Davo
19th March 2012, 12:52 PM
Cheaper then I thought, if you have the jack already
TRANSMISSION JACK ADAPTER 500KG GEARBOX TROLLEY NEW!! | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRANSMISSION-JACK-ADAPTER-500KG-GEARBOX-TROLLEY-NEW-/200388750773?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ea819adb5#ht_4539wt_956)
might get one myself.
Matt
That actually looks quite good. I see they've sold more than a few . . .
George130
19th March 2012, 06:50 PM
Biggest PITA is undoing the bolts between the torque converter and the flex plate.
I fould I have 2 options.
1 remove sump and go in from there.
2 use spanner through that inspection hole. Can take 30 mins to an hour to get the first bolt back in this way.
I have done it a few times now.
If you have space to run a load strap over the chassis rails like in the defender then 1 strap and a trolley jack will work nicely. To get the box out from under your rig you will have to raise the car or remove the bell housing from the box.
999
10th April 2012, 06:55 PM
What a ***** of a job, took me 4 1/2 days. But now I have new flex plate (the old one was broken at 2 bolt locations), also have a cdl and heavy duty ashcroft torque converter. :D
Davo
10th April 2012, 08:31 PM
What a ***** of a job, took me 4 1/2 days.
No surprises there, but congratulations - you did it!
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