DIY pop top roof conversion - 110 defender [Archive]

jay_guess

19th March 2012, 07:14 PM

Ranga

19th March 2012, 07:46 PM

I've often thought a side hinged roof like the Dormobile would be best, but have it fold out a full 180 degrees (sort of like a roof top tent). This would give you heaps more usable room.

digger

19th March 2012, 11:46 PM

would a roof top camper be better value, and can move cars if you update?

leaves top for you guys and inside for the tin lids..

jay_guess

20th March 2012, 05:34 AM

would a roof top camper be better value, and can move cars if you update?

leaves top for you guys and inside for the tin lids..

too top heavy - and makes parking in multi story a nightmare!

also the wind noise when not being used and a pain if you have to fit it each time you want to go away camping.

180 degree roof is an intresting idea - but i can see problems with the canvas already.

Any other thoughts?

digger

20th March 2012, 07:16 AM

Motorhome Gallery - RV Roof Air Lifter Systems (http://www.rvairlifters.com.au/motorhomegallery/motorhome_gallery.html)

examples of dormobile style and straight lift tops......(not shown on l/r's)

pop top, lifting roof, camper conversion, recreational vehicle conversions - mulgo pty ltd - australia (http://www.mulgo.com.au/p3_Pop-Top.html)

shown on a defender... although a high roof when closed doesnt look too bad.. will still make some car parks a challenge.

BUT

"Pricing
Ranging from $9500.00 to $12000.00 incl GST depending on your specifications. Please call us for a quote."

ouch!

this one is from South Africa I believe but check it out, wow!

LandRover Defender | GRTravelTops (http://grtraveltops.com/node/12#)

another Sth African one

2003 Land Rover Defender 110 Td5 | A nip here, a tuck there (http://www.driveout.co.za/wheels/articles/2003-land-rover-defender-110-td5-nip-here-tuck-there-%E2%80%A6)

just for laughs, (although I like the concept. no drilling etc just fit!) here is a lift roof for the series vehicles! From Canada I believe

X-Panda-Cab camper (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LandRoverCaravan/XpandaCab.htm)

jerryd

20th March 2012, 01:27 PM

You need one of these ;)

jay_guess

21st March 2012, 10:01 AM

You need one of these ;)

Also interesting, but is it not impossible to buy the diy kits in OZ?

I am surprised more people haven't tried to make a lifting roof themselves - landy nuts seem to be willing to make everything else!

danialan

24th April 2013, 12:48 PM

Sorry old thread, but I have just seen it.

We did our own pop top and it was very easy. I can't understand why there are not more of them either? We never saw any in our travels of Australia. There are heaps of them in Germany.

Cost in 2003 was:
$1500 Aluminium and welding of spacer/roof. The main thing is the 10 (or 11cm?) spacer panel to clear the rear door. The biggest pain was making the original roof flat at the front (as it goes up around the windscreen). Next time I would just use a series model tropical roof as this is already flat. I used 4 large hinges accross the front as this is what was available at the time. A long piano hinge would have been better. I riveted on a rubber strip over the hinge to seal it, and sikaflexed automotive rubber around the other three sides. We used pine slats for the bed. These could be slid together to create more room.
$800 painting (456 savarin white)
$800 canvas and stitching. We had big fly screen windows on all 3 sides.
$300 gas struts - these need to be out side the canvas to allow it to fold in better (lessoned learned).

The pop top was an awesome thing. Undo two clips, give it a little push and job done. You have standing room and can access all your gear. A roof top tent simply doesn't compare. Jaffle our pop top did us proud for 10 years, including a 12month trip around Australia and 18 months through Russia/Mongolia and Europe. We are a bit lost without him :(

Our current plan is to make a 130 station wagon, then put on a left side hinge and have the roof fold over 180degrees. Us sleeping on fold out and kids at roof level over the front and back seats. Just have to find an unmolested 300tdi 130 dual cab....

Here are some scans of photos of the build.

Hope this helps,
Alan

danialan

24th April 2013, 12:51 PM

More photos

130man

27th April 2013, 07:39 PM

Hi Danialan, looks like a very neat piece of work. Congratulations. My Trayon camper folds out to the passenger side and one of the benefits is the shaded area this creates, not to mention the full length headroom. The Trayon uses pivoting aluminium poles and cross bars which are pulled into position as the top opens. The middle poles are extended to tension the canvas and maximise headroom. A pair of fairly strong gas struts aid both the opening and the closing action. Cheers, 130man.

TeamFA

1st May 2013, 07:30 AM

Danialan, that's awesome. We're going to do this conversion at some stage, looking at the Mulgo one, but your effort is inspiring. Can I ask if you used any plans or templates?

Did you get any engineering approval for the conversion? This seems to be the biggest hurdle to overcome with a DIY, from my research.

Cheers!
Michael (TeamFA)

jaketravels

26th May 2013, 04:02 AM

Hello, we are looking at a pop up roof for our Defender 110. We have seen some of the German pop up roofs. I would like to make my own and the hardest part to fabricate is the hinge over the windscreen.
Do you have any more photographs of your build please.

danialan

26th May 2013, 07:23 AM

Thanks for the kind words people. We loved that car.....

@130man we had a Trayon for about a year recently. A 1830 tapered model which was specifically designed for 130 dual cabs apparently. Was great but too small for four of us. Co incidentally we met Ken and Irene the original owners of Trayon last week - very nice people. From the trayon comes the side fold idea, but we want more room for the four of us, better weight distribution, so a full length of roof fold over, and only one piece of equipment (the car) to worry about. Possibly do more of an ultimate style frame for the canvas with more vertical walls - though this may be not so good in the wind? Oh and I would recommend to join CMCA - super cheap insurance $400 for 130 and Trayon!

@TeamFA - Thanks. We had no plans other than seeing an internet photo of a German one. So other than a couple of photos we had no actual plans. In the end we used 3mm plate Aluminium folded into a C with strengtheners for the spacer. Next time I would use 2mm box section with rivinuts to fasten to the body. We had a 3mm bit of 50mm angle the length of the pop up roof on both sides to add a bit more stength. The German conversions use box here too. This is to give more strength to the roof, for roofracks which appear to be necessary on European "expedition" vehicles. I wanted to keep the height down. Ours had a 12kg 120watt solar panel bolted to the roof for the whole time with no ill effects. We also had 2 double sea kayaks on ours at times (combined weight about 70kg) with no issues either. Though ours wasn't really planned for this. The angle to which it popped up was determined by lying in the bed with our arms outstretched plus a bit, then getting the canvas and struts made to suit. I think it was around 30degrees?

We had Qld Blue modification plate for it (K1 roof mod i think). This was no problem in 2003. The inspector said it was probably stronger with the pop top roof than original. Not sure if the rules have changed since? The vehicle was registered in Qld as a "campervan" so Qld Transport shouldn't have any issues.

@jaketravels - The long piano hinges use a 6mm pin. Should be available at nut and bolt shops? Two solid hinges would easily do the job. Just looks neater with the continuous piano hinge. The hardest part is making the old roof flat at the front - use a series roof. Then you can use the old roof front section where it bolts onto the windscreen without having to shape this, and possibly the gutters over the doors.

Let me know what you would like photos of?

Ranga

28th May 2013, 09:46 AM

Our current plan is to make a 130 station wagon, then put on a left side hinge and have the roof fold over 180degrees. Us sleeping on fold out and kids at roof level over the front and back seats.

As per my earlier quote, that's exactly what I had envisaged when thinking about a conversion. I agree that this method would provide the most usable space, and a side awning to boot!

Please keep us updated with your progress. This is about the only better option for us than the Trayon we pickup in a few weeks.

PS - thanks for the heads-up about CMCA insurance. The cost for the Defender and Trayon combined is still cheaper than just the Defender through Shannons!

danialan

29th May 2013, 07:04 AM

Ranga - PM sent. Have fun with the Trayon.

juddy

29th May 2013, 08:36 AM

I would like this one, it a fantastic idea...

MITIC Cellule 4X4 Tracker - YouTube

Ranga

29th May 2013, 09:34 AM

I would like this one, it a fantastic idea...

Buy my canopy and whack a roof-top tent on it :p :wasntme:

juddy

29th May 2013, 11:08 AM

Out of my price range......:mad:

jerryd

30th May 2013, 07:48 AM

Out of my price range......:mad:

Sell that old ex army workshop and buy it ;) :wasntme:

jerryd

30th May 2013, 07:51 AM

I would like this one, it a fantastic idea...

MITIC Cellule 4X4 Tracker - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STSolQKnrIs)

That certainly looks the goods, but I'd hate to think what that would have cost to put on the road.

sclarke

12th June 2013, 07:56 PM

Used VW kombi roof??

danialan

18th June 2013, 02:58 PM

It's a Landcruiser Troop Carrier but this is real DYI Buschtaxi.net • Aufstelldach "einfach" selbst gebaut (http://forum.buschtaxi.org/aufstelldach-einfach-selbst-gebaut-t19652.html)

I like the fibreglassing the roof idea, it makes it neat. At one stage he wishes he had a Defender shape roof as the Troopys narrow towards the front and also curves length ways! Defenders are real easy, as you just unbolt and reuse the original roof.

It's in German but I'm sure you can translate it - the pictures tell the story anyway.

Ranga

18th June 2013, 08:28 PM

That front hinge looks like a lot of work for not much gain.

danialan

19th June 2013, 10:20 AM

Yeh, I thought that the front hinges were pointless too. Only gives a smidge more foot room. He says he originally wanted the roof to go up horizontally, but couldn't get it to work.

A bit more space at the front end does allow the bed to be a bit shorter, giving more internal standing room at the back with the bed down (if that makes sense).

This guy sliced the roof and back body off a perfectly good 100 series Buschtaxi.net • Endlich wieder TOYOTA LC :-) (http://forum.buschtaxi.org/endlich-wieder-toyota-lc-t23113.html)

So all you D4 owners you can have a pop top too - out with the angle grinders :D

danialan

10th September 2013, 07:29 PM

And another way of doing it. But you need two roofs, heaps of bent aluminium and welding. HUbdach-Eigenbau (http://streuner.yawron.de/streuner/Basteleien/Seiten/Hubdach_Eigenbau.html#0)

jerryd

11th September 2013, 09:01 AM

I still think the originals are best with a genuine 8 foot headroom,and you can still stand up and walk through when the top bunks are in use :)

An original interior pic showing the space available

blue_mini

11th September 2013, 09:35 AM

I think the side lifting ones are the best, mainly because you can walk to the back of the front seats at full height. Saves crouching or bending over as you move forward.
You don't have any storage space in the bunks with you though like the forward folding roofs.

Ranga

11th September 2013, 04:47 PM

I agree about the side lifting, but think it would be better if it unfolded a full 180 degrees, like my Trayon camper. That would give a lot more space for sleeping,plus a built-in awning!

danialan

11th January 2014, 08:02 AM

dylanhenley

19th February 2015, 05:42 PM

And for some more ideas, another DIY version of the front hinge 110 pop top - 110 lifting roof (has begun in earnest) - Tools and Fabrication - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=85932&page=1)

Mate do you have any other pictures on the build of this? I have a 110 and I am considering doing the same as you. It looks awesome by the way, I like that you have been able to keep the same roof shape.

danialan

23rd February 2015, 10:03 AM

Hi Mate,

I was wondering if you might have any more pictures of the build process for the 110 rooftop conversion you did? It looks awesome by the way. Did you have any dramas with ceiling height with the slates being low?

Dylan

Hi Dylan

I don't have many pics of Jaffles build, as it was done in 2003, before we had a digital camera. I have attached scans of the remaining photos I took. What where you looking for pictures of? I might be able to find a later photo or take a measurement from my 130.

There are a lot of photos in the build thread of my 130 station wagon pop top that may help - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/185072-130-station-wagon-side-fold-pop-top-build-5.html I used box section for the frame this time, and it looks far neater from the inside than the C-section I used on Jaffle. Box section allowed more DIY as no need for a bender. I just took the cut to size aluminium in to get welded. For a 110 I would definitely use a series roof, as the front is already flat and you would only need to chop and fill the rear of the roof.

I have the same ceiling height in my 130 and it is fine. I just took some measurements and I have approx 99cm vertical height from the drivers seat cushion (where it meets the backrest) to the roof. I am 1.84m tall and this gives me about 9cm of space above my head when seated.

Any more questions feel free to ask.
Alan

dylanhenley

23rd February 2015, 02:12 PM

Hi Dylan

I don't have many pics of Jaffles build, as it was done in 2003, before we had a digital camera. I have attached scans of the remaining photos I took. What where you looking for pictures of? I might be able to find a later photo or take a measurement from my 130.

There are a lot of photos in the build thread of my 130 station wagon pop top that may help - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/185072-130-station-wagon-side-fold-pop-top-build-5.html I used box section for the frame this time, and it looks far neater from the inside than the C-section I used on Jaffle. Box section allowed more DIY as no need for a bender. I just took the cut to size aluminium in to get welded. For a 110 I would definitely use a series roof, as the front is already flat and you would only need to chop and fill the rear of the roof.

I have the same ceiling height in my 130 and it is fine. I just took some measurements and I have approx 99cm vertical height from the drivers seat cushion (where it meets the backrest) to the roof. I am 1.84m tall and this gives me about 9cm of space above my head when seated.

Any more questions feel free to ask.
Alan

EDIT: I see what you mean about using a series roof now but does it cause that much more drama to use the original?

From what I understand, I would need to trim the original roof up a tad length ways because the extra piece you added between the windscreen and roof is on an angle rather than vertical. So I would grind out a bit (the difference needed) from the flat of the roof where it joins the incline running down to the windscreen. Does that make sense?

Would the cost of the series roof be cheaper than the extra aluminium?

Sorry about all the questions, I am just trying to ensure I plan it properly. Thanks for your help!

TeamFA

23rd February 2015, 02:17 PM

I guess I'm just trying to understand the build a bit better. Did you have to shorten the original 110 roof to make it fit? I'm unsure what you mean when you say that a 110 roof is not flat? Are you referring to the incline from the back of the front seats to the windscreen?

Sorry about all the questions, I am just trying to ensure I plan it properly. Thanks for your help!

I think you'll have to shorten the roof, whether or not you use a 110 roof or a series roof. Have a look at some of the pics overhead to see the overhang at the rear when the roof is sat on top in line with the front...

The flat roof is at the front, as you can also see from the pics above. The Defender roof is curved downward at the sides at the front, to curve around the curve of the windscreen corners. The series have sharp corners on the windscreen. Have a look at the pic from the front above where you can see the windscreen curve.

danialan

23rd February 2015, 02:57 PM

I guess I'm just trying to understand the build a bit better. Did you have to shorten the original 110 roof to make it fit? Yes, you have to shorten the rear of the roof. This is due to the roof siting about 10cm higher, due to the frame which is needed to get up above the height of the rear door opening (pic attached) - You can see that the lower frame bolted to the body is just higher than the rear door gutter height. By continuing the slope of the windscreen, up and back, it means the roof now sits further back. One of the photos in the last post shows the rear of the car with the roof hanging over the frame by the amount that it needs to get cut. You can also see in this photo how we cut a section out of the rear of the original roof, so we didn't have to fabricate the roof gutter over the rear door.

I'm unsure what you mean when you say that a 110 roof is not flat? Are you referring to the incline from the back of the front seats to the windscreen? The defender's windscreen is taller than on a series land rover. If you look at the front of defender's roof it is arched at the front to go up over the windscreen (photo attached). I put a photo of a series land rover roof in the last post, and you can see it is flat at the front (or level with the sides). To use a defender roof for a pop top you would need to fill the front arch of a defender roof (which was a pain and is time consuming to do). You can see this fill panel in a photo of post #8 in this thread. This area also needs to be quite strong, as this where the hinge is attached in a front opening pop top.

Sorry about all the questions, I am just trying to ensure I plan it properly. Thanks for your help!
Hey no worries. Ask away

dylanhenley

23rd February 2015, 04:21 PM

Yes, you have to shorten the rear of the roof. This is due to the roof siting about 10cm higher, due to the frame which is needed to get up above the height of the rear door opening (pic attached) - You can see that the lower frame bolted to the body is just higher than the rear door gutter height. By continuing the slope of the windscreen, up and back, it means the roof now sits further back. One of the photos in the last post shows the rear of the car with the roof hanging over the frame by the amount that it needs to get cut. You can also see in this photo how we cut a section out of the rear of the original roof, so we didn't have to fabricate the roof gutter over the rear door.

The defender's windscreen is taller than on a series land rover. If you look at the front of defender's roof it is arched at the front to go up over the windscreen (photo attached). I put a photo of a series land rover roof in the last post, and you can see it is flat at the front (or level with the sides). To use a defender roof for a pop top you would need to fill the front arch of a defender roof (which was a pain and is time consuming to do). You can see this fill panel in a photo of post #8 in this thread. This area also needs to be quite strong, as this where the hinge is attached in a front opening pop top.

Hey no worries. Ask away

Yeah sorry, I understood what you meant but flat series roof after you posted this...

So the filler bit you are referring to is just the arch from where the windscreen was. Could you not just have a piece cut from 3mm and wielded onto the extra 100 or 110mm base which has been added or would that not have enough strength to attach the hinge onto? I don't suppose you would have a photo that shows the hinges at all?

danialan

23rd February 2015, 06:07 PM

So the filler bit you are referring to is just the arch from where the windscreen was. Could you not just have a piece cut from 3mm and wielded onto the extra 100 or 110mm base which has been added or would that not have enough strength to attach the hinge onto? I don't suppose you would have a photo that shows the hinges at all?

I don't really follow what you are asking, but anything is possible. There are a million ways to do the pop-top on a Defender as can be seen in the links etc on this thread, and I am not saying that the way I did mine is the only way. It is simply the way I did my one.

Aluminium is fairly cheap, it is the costs involved in getting it folded and welded that costs alot, unless you can do this yourself.

I have attached a photo of a hinge from Hesch AT - Hubdach Landrover Defender 110_Roof Top Tent Defender 110 | Offroad Hesch (http://www.offroad-hesch.at/produkte/offroad-hesch_hubdach_defender_110/) You can see the top filler panel and hinge. The top is a bit taller than mine as they put a box section around the perimeter of the roof. I think I remember they use 10mm piano hinge.

Extec do a different profile of the box section around the hinge (pic attached), though I haven't worked out what the advantage of this "step down" bit is? They also do a tricky pop top with hard sides Space-Tec? Hubd?cher since 2002 - Ex-Tec GmbH (http://shop.ex-tec.de/index.php?cPath=1_14)

Here is a link to Space Camp SF, they do a few different styles. This one reuses the original unshortened roof, with no "frame" underneath. This only raises the height of the car 15mm - 4x4camp - Aufstelldach Zusatztank Getriebesatz off road gear (http://www.4x4camp.eu/layout.htm) Doesn't appeal to me. They say you can put 120kg load on the rear of the roof. (pic attached of hinge area)

You can put those sites into Google translate or something for a translation.

dylanhenley

23rd February 2015, 06:49 PM

I don't really follow what you are asking, but anything is possible. There are a million ways to do the pop-top on a Defender as can be seen in the links etc on this thread, and I am not saying that the way I did mine is the only way. It is simply the way I did my one.

Aluminium is fairly cheap, it is the costs involved in getting it folded and welded that costs alot, unless you can do this yourself.

I have attached a photo of a hinge from Hesch AT - Hubdach Landrover Defender 110_Roof Top Tent Defender 110 | Offroad Hesch (http://www.offroad-hesch.at/produkte/offroad-hesch_hubdach_defender_110/) You can see the top filler panel and hinge. The top is a bit taller than mine as they put a box section around the perimeter of the roof. I think I remember they use 10mm piano hinge.

Extec do a different profile of the box section around the hinge (pic attached), though I haven't worked out what the advantage of this "step down" bit is? They also do a tricky pop top with hard sides Space-Tec? Hubd?cher since 2002 - Ex-Tec GmbH (http://shop.ex-tec.de/index.php?cPath=1_14)

Here is a link to Space Camp SF, they do a few different styles. This one reuses the original unshortened roof, with no "frame" underneath. This only raises the height of the car 15mm - 4x4camp - Aufstelldach Zusatztank Getriebesatz off road gear (http://www.4x4camp.eu/layout.htm) Doesn't appeal to me. They say you can put 120kg load on the rear of the roof. (pic attached of hinge area)

You can put those sites into Google translate or something for a translation.

thanks heaps for your help mate. I have a pretty good idea what to do now! I'm probably 6 month off starting or so which will give me plenty more time to research it! You're 130 conversion thread has helped heaps too.

danialan

20th June 2015, 01:09 AM

To help with some pop top ideas, attached are some photos of 110 pop tops from the 2015 off road show at Bad Kissingen in Germany. To see photos of the other vehicles at the show go to this thread - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/general-chat/220859-abenteuer-allrad-bad-kissingen-germany-2015-anyone-going.html

First up, using a series land rover roof. I believe these pop tops (2 different cars) were done by Evo Campers - Evo-Camper (http://www.evo-camper.de/)

They use a shorter box section around the top of the body, and have an extension out the front (above the windscreen) to keep the original roof length. They also keep the arch above the rear door, and in the (pop top) roof.

danialan

20th June 2015, 01:17 AM

Off road Hesch from Austria: - Hubdach Landrover Defender 110_Roof Top Tent Defender 110 | Offroad Hesch (http://www.offroad-hesch.at/produkte/Offroad-Hesch_Hubdach_Defender_110/)

Has a very solid look with a 10mm front hinge pin! Manfred said this way he doesn't get any returns when people go overboard loading up the roof. He also does some tricky cover plates inside at the front, above the windscreen.

danialan

20th June 2015, 02:24 AM

Alu Cab from South Africa: - Alu-Cab | Flip-roof conversion : Land Rover Defender (http://www.alu-cab.co.za/index.php/component/virtuemart/campers/flip-roof-conversion/land-rover-defender-detail?Itemid=0)

At the rear, where the rear door rubber goes around the underside of the new body frame, I am not sure why they bothered welding on the strip of aluminium, along and around the arch. It is far easier to reuse the angled strip that came off the original roof, to hold the door rubber. See pic of Hesch above where they reuse this strip.

I also still haven't worked out what the advantage of the "step down" section at the front of the box section frame near the hinge is? It seems like a lot more work for no real gain. I am obviously missing something?

Here the front where it bolts onto the windscreen panel is simply bent sheet aluminium, with a 6mm aluminium strip welded on along the flat section. This and the other internal photos show the shape of the aluminium for the frame. A "c" with raised ends to allow a cover face plate, of angled aluminium, to be bolted on. This would allow access to bolt this frame to the body without using rivnuts. The riveted on rain gutter looked a bit cheap.

danialan

20th June 2015, 02:37 AM

Something different again, not sure who did this one? This time using the Defender roof, but making the fill-in section at the front vertical, so the sides of the roof at the front sit forward of the hinge. The lower section (under the hinge) is also vertical. By doing this they have been able to keep the length of the original roof the same. Only needing to make a fill in panel to the arch (where the rear door opening was).

Then a different one with a wind deflector for the hinge at the front. Not sure who made this one either?

samuelwest

1st July 2015, 06:54 AM

Hey Guys

I am new to the forum and I have just purchased a low KM defender 300 tdi 110. I am planning a pop top conversion, has anyone attempted to DIY a conversion? Any help with parts or photos would be hugely appreciated. The first main hurdle I can see it to source a suitable waterproof hinge for the front - I am aiming for sleeping 2 adults in the roof space and the 2 kids on fold down beds.

Mulgo is an interesting conversion but too $$$ for us - the conversion costs more than the landy!

Again and help or ideas much appreciated,

Cheers,

Jay

centaflex hinge would be a great water proof hinge for the front of a pop top. struts Australia sell them online. I fitted them to a canopy I built and they where perfect. I will be using them when I build my next pop top, also electronic linear actuators to raise and lower the top would be cool.

sam

maxthomas

1st July 2015, 08:56 AM

I have also been looking into poptop conversions as my rooftop tent can be annoying to bolt on and off between trips away.
Alucab in South Africa has released a 'kit' flip roof conversion called the ICARUS.
Alu-Cab | Flip-roof conversion : Land Rover Defender (http://www.alu-cab.co.za/index.php/component/virtuemart/campers/flip-roof-conversion/land-rover-defender-detail?Itemid=0)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1373.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1374.jpg

Ranga

2nd July 2015, 02:34 PM

wish they would do one that flips 180 degrees like Danial's - this is still the most effective use of space IMHO.

danialan

21st December 2015, 10:32 PM

A video of a french workshop assembling an Ex-tec pop top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vXJmQgjrFI

And some photos of a Extec pop-top with the hard sides (Ex tec Hard tent) that we saw recently - Space-Tec Hubdach Hard-Tent - Ex-Tec GmbH (http://shop.ex-tec.de/product_info.php?products_id=22)

This has 6mm hard "plastic" sides, with what looks like a bonded vinyl hinge. The idea is to stop the flapping in high winds, it is also supposed to be better insulated from cold and noise. With only the window at the back it would be fairly warm I suspect. These guys said the little round windows at the back of the roof let out alot of heat, as its at the highest spot when opened.

The little hooks are how the roof is kept closed when traveling.

danialan

21st December 2015, 10:47 PM

Some pictures of another variation of the 110 pop top theme. This one has used a series windscreen frame. This saves having to curve the lower aluminum frame up and around the curve in Defender windscreen frames. This would obviously reduce some vision.

The checker plate roof overlaps the lower frame at the sides, and at the back. I thought I had some better photos, but I cant seem to find them.

I am keen to see it popped up, so I will go back and try and track down the owner.

danialan

11th May 2020, 06:02 AM

Another variation on the theme from Oryx solutions.

Only adds minimal height to the car when closed, but you lose about 15cm of bed width and some length. In Europe they cost less than half the price of an Extec, Hesch etc Pop top.

For 110's - Pop-Top Roof for Sleeping, fits for Land Rover Defender 110 | Pop Top Roof Defender | Equipment for Defender | Vehicle Equipment | Oryxsolutions (https://www.oryxsolutions.de/en/vehicle-equipment/equipment-for-defender/pop-top-roof-defender/1895/pop-top-roof-for-sleeping-fits-for-land-rover-defender-110)

For 90's - Pop-Top Roof for Sleeping, fits for Land Rover Defender 90 | Pop Top Roof Defender | Equipment for Defender | Vehicle Equipment | Oryxsolutions (https://www.oryxsolutions.de/en/vehicle-equipment/equipment-for-defender/pop-top-roof-defender/2371/pop-top-roof-for-sleeping-fits-for-land-rover-defender-90)

TeamFA

12th May 2020, 11:14 AM