Motorbike racing photography

[p38arover]

Ok, what is the secret of good motor racing photography?

I spent the weekend at the Formula Xtreme/Aus Superbikes (run by TerryO of this forum) at Eastern Creek and took a lot of pics.

Practically none were any good.

Owing to the lighting conditions on Sat (overcast/rain) I was at ISO 800 to get reasonable apertures at 1/1000th sec shutter speed. I used shutter speed priority all weekend. I had vibration reduction turned on. I was using both a 100-300mm and 18-200mm zoom lenses. Initially I was using a monopod but changed to a tripod for Sunday.

As I was doing the pit exit marshal's job, it meant I was right at the point where turn 1 commences at the end of pit straight so the bikes are really at top speed - 180-190km/h for the 650 Hyosungs a couple of friends were racing (and they were slow) and probably closer to 260km/h for the superbikes.

I'm starting to think that, even with panning, 1/1000th wasn't fast enough for where I was positioned.

Tell me if my maths is wrong:

Assuming 150km/h..

= 150,000 metres/hour = 150,000/3600 metres/second = 42 metres/sec = 42mm/millisecond

i.e., the bike travels 42mm in 1/1000th second! No wonder the images are blurred. For the superbikes, that movement could be in the region of 75mm.

As I was marshalling, I couldn't move to a location where speeds were slower.

I tried both autofocus and manual focussing and it's hard to say if I have a focus or shutter speed problem - I think shutter speed.

A couple of pics are below to illustrate what I mean. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/591.jpg

Details: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fk89sWO1pajW1_byLLN3ltMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?full-exif=true

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/592.jpg

Details: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QvfK7S6nF_VQCOeQZyN44tMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?full-exif=true

[Chucaro]

On the very first image I think that your PP is not the best and perhaps the glass if not sharp enough to get a good shot.
There is not enough info in the image (pixels) to improve it to my standards of presentation, however I give it a go on my LT.
I hope that you do not get upset by doing it so.
Please remove the post if you think that I have acted improper.

[p38arover]

No problem, Arthur. Happy for you to play with the images.

Certainly the glass isn't brilliant.

The 18-200mm lens is a Sigma 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DC Sigma 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DC DSLR lens full review Cameralabs introduction (http://www.cameralabs.com/reviews/Sigma18200mm/)
Cost about $500

The 100-300mm is an older Pentax-F SMC 100-300mm f4.5-5.6 - Cost only $55 off eBay. SMC Pentax-F 100-300mm F4.5-5.6 Reviews - F Zoom Lenses - Pentax Lens Reviews & Lens Database (http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/SMC-Pentax-F-100-300mm-F4.5-5.6-Zoom-Lens.html)

Both pics were taken with the Pentax lens.

The pic of the two bikes was cropped.

Uncropped:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/588.jpg

This was taken with the Sigma:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/589.jpg

Picasa album link (not many pics yet): https://picasaweb.google.com/104305294933439203395/20120319EasternCreek#

What is PP? Post production?

[Chucaro]

PP is for post processing.
The best is taken the shots in raw so you can fix an image when it is under exposed.
Try to look the histogram in your camera and expose to the right.
Under exposed images loose information that it is hard to recuperate and also show more ISO noise.
Instead of explain to you in my spanglish cross with ozitralian I am recommending THIS LINK (http://www.naturescapes.net/092004/gd0904.htm) with good info about the histogram.

Cheers

[300+]

In the second shot I think you managed to take a technically great shot of the wrong subject - you seem to have nailed the Armco spot on. Shame the bikes may have been the intended subject.

Not that I've ever done that. Not me. No never.

:cool:

More seriously, moving away and across the frame at that speed is a serious AF challenge.

Steve

[Jeff]

You find most of the professional motorsport potographers will take their best photos in slow corners. That way not only are they easier to focus on, but also the field bunches up mid corner. In the faster corners you need to see them coming, not just when they get there. On slower corners you also get more of that knee-down look.

I went to the Isle of Man once and the bikes there appear from behind stone walls and hedges at great speed, so you get a lot of photos of empty race track, or a fornt or rear wheel only.

My wife loves taking photos at race meetings while I race, and it has taken years of practice to get the location and the timing right. I don't know about settings on the camera, I have enough on my mind on race day, but I will ask.

Jeff

:rocket:

[p38arover]

I agree, Jeff, about slow corners. As I said, I was locked into being at pit exit as there was only me there to operate the lights, flags, show the 5 min/2 min/30 sec (and other boards) and to close/open the exit, etc. If you know Eastern Creek, you know the "slow" bikes don't even back off into turn 1.

I also got a lot of empty track or half a bike in the pix. The speed was the reason I tried pre-focussing and snapping the shot when the bike reached the focus point. One problem is that it's hard to get a focus point on an empty track surface. :(

Where I was located was right near where the word PITS is in this diagram: http://www.eastern-creek-raceway.com/pdf/EC_General_Map.pdf

[p38arover]

PP is for post processing.
The best is taken the shots in raw so you can fix an image when it is under exposed.
Try to look the histogram in your camera and expose to the right.
Under exposed images loose information that it is hard to recuperate and also show more ISO noise.
Instead of explain to you in my spanglish cross with ozitralian I am recommending THIS LINK (http://www.naturescapes.net/092004/gd0904.htm) with good info about the histogram.

Cheers

Thanks Arthur. I don't know a lot about using the histogram.

I was taking the pix in RAW but I also don't know a lot about post processing.

I'll try again next weekend at the Barry Sheene Festival of Speed. http://www.barrysheene.com.au/

[Pedro_The_Swift]

If it was easy Ron,,
imagine how many "Media" vests they'd have to issue---;):p

[p38arover]

I was talking to the producer for the Speedweek showing of the events. For some HD video which will go to air, he was using his Canon EOS DSLR. He set up for a few shots from where I was working.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Addressing the shutter speed issue. I assume 1/1000 was as quick as you could go given the conditions on the day, limiting yourself to ISO 800 and, the big restrictor, f3.5 - f6.3.

For this sort of thing an f2.8 lens will allow you to get 1/4000 of a second without too much problem due to the relationship between shutter speed and aperture.

The shallow depth of field at f2.8 shouldn't be a problem as you are looking at a relatively thin object.

Of course with an f2.8 lens you an get the shutter speed but the challenge remains to get the AF working quickly enough. Having said that, if your on a tripod, have a play with Manual focus and continuous drive.

Using MF will allow the camera to shoot quicker making your chances of getting that perfect shot that much greater.

Hth
J

Sent using Forum Runner

[p38arover]

I could have gone to ISO 1600 but I haven't tried it recently with this camera. The last time I tried my Pentax at 1600, it gave quite grainy results.

Looking at my EXIF data, I can see I could have gone with a faster shutter speed but it wasn't until I got home and viewed them on the computer that I saw the images were blurred,

A long f2.8 lens is outside my budget.

I was using MF quite a bit to get over the problem of focussing delay - and also the camera not letting the shutter release until it was in focus.

I've got plenty more rounds of FX-SB to take more pix.

I just noticed that the images as displayed in Picasa 3 (and thus in this thread) are significantly degraded over those displayed in both the Pentax Photo Browser and the Capture One imaging software packages.

[Yorkshire_Jon]

Hi Ron,
Sounds like your doing everything right.

Have a play with ISO 1600 and see what the images are like.

If you can't increase the shutter speed anymore, you need to slow down the action and move to a slower corner.

One food for thought option though, thinking outside the square. How-about hiring a 70-200 or 300mm f2.8 for those special weekends when you need to capture the action?

J

Sent using Forum Runner

[p38arover]

I didn't know one could hire lenses, Jon. Food for thought.

Regrettably, as I work as a marshall, usually on pit exit or the grid, I don't get a chance to move about.

However, next weekend at Eastern Creek I'll be a spectator so I will have a chance. I might need to carry my lightweight tripod or my monopod, though.

Here's a couple form another thread:


No. 39 - Jump Start (Wakefield Park 2011).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/553.jpg

and on the main straight:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/554.jpg

[slug_burner]

Does you camera have multiple modes e.g., sports, portrait etc.

In sports mode on my camera, the focus does not impede the operation of the shutter and it will operate on demand. I also use the continuous shoot/motor wind mode which gives me bursts of successive exposures.

Slowing the speed of the subject is not restricted to speed on the ground it is the traverse across the lens that determines the shutters speed requirements to freeze an image. Panning will reduce the traversing speed. Also taking pictures head on or going away will also reduce the traversing speed, you will just have to cope with focal distance changes and changing size of image therefore stick to long lenses. Not all good images require crystal clear frozen motion, a little blur can be good to show speed of subject, usually best to blur the background.

Once you know your limits try for shots that best suit your situation. As a marshal you probably had opportunities with respect to proximity to the bikes others will not have. Hopefully this does not mean just pictures of the bikes on their trailers.

[p38arover]

Actually, Jon, I hadn't thought about what shutter speed I needed until I did the calculations mentioned in my earlier post.

This weekend I'll experiment a lot more. The screen on the back of the K100D ain't great for viewing images so I'll need to move them to a netbook which I could take with me.

I had a look for rentals but it seems that Pentax is not catered for. I'm not looking to do this for a living so I can't justify buying, I'm only doing it for fun and as a learning exercise.

At the moment, it's not equipment that is limiting me - it's lack of skill. :(

[Yorkshire_Jon]

...
In sports mode on my camera, the focus does not impede the operation of the shutter and it will operate on demand...

I agree with the rest of the stuff you say, but... Id be very surprised if above is true. Even on the fastest USM L series Canon lenses the camera still won't take a shot until the AF says its in focus. Using the AF to focus is slower than the system not focussing at all (ie. using MF) and hence slows the camera's ability to record multiple shots and thus increasing your chances of missing "the" shot! This is the very thing Ron has already experienced and figured out the (MF) solution!

A cool trick for MF on a tripod in this situation is often to take a shot using AF, thus letting the AF set the focal length, then switch to MF and leave the focussing ring alone. This then allows you to play with other variables, knowing that each frame, whilst under/over exposed will be in focus.

I would also shoot in jpg not RAW in continuous mode. This will allow the camera to make better use of its buffer and allow you to shoot more continuous shots before things start to grind to a halt when the camera is writing to the card. Of course you can't do as much editing afterwards, but at least you'll have captured the shot!

The cheaper / slower the lens, the more pronounced the issue.

J

[VladTepes]

Thats what I was going to raise... seems the AF will always slow down things. Do the professional guys use MF or do they just have VERY VERY VERY expensive lenses (and bodies) that have AF thats quick enough?

[Bushie]

Ron, a thought bearing in mind I've never used it, but does the 100D do focus trapping (or catch in focus) ?

Basically set the focus point and press the shutter, it doesn't actually fire though until something is in the frame and in focus.


Martyn



Martyn

[Chucaro]

The images are not sharp because they are under exposed and in some cases a crop.
If you look at the last image posted (and on the main straight:) you will see that in the histogram the information is to the left and with lot of info lost on the RHS.
Even in the image posted which have very little pixels to play by draging the LHS adjusting point on the bottom of the histogram towards the left you will see that the image can be improved considerable.
As I said before underexposed images also have big ISO noise which causes lost of information.
In the camera forum on the birds using kit lens there are many good photos taken with cheap lens with good exposure technique.

Cheers

[p38arover]

Does you camera have multiple modes e.g., sports, portrait etc.

In sports mode on my camera, the focus does not impede the operation of the shutter and it will operate on demand. I also use the continuous shoot/motor wind mode which gives me bursts of successive exposures.

It does have sports mode - I haven't used it. I have been using Tv (shutter priority) for this work. I'll try sports mode. I have tried continuous mode but I didn;t use it last week end.


Slowing the speed of the subject is not restricted to speed on the ground it is the traverse across the lens that determines the shutters speed requirements to freeze an image. Panning will reduce the traversing speed. Also taking pictures head on or going away will also reduce the traversing speed, you will just have to cope with focal distance changes and changing size of image therefore stick to long lenses. Not all good images require crystal clear frozen motion, a little blur can be good to show speed of subject, usually best to blur the background.

Yes, that's why I was panning using the tripod (too hard to hand-hold a long lens). Again, I was using the approach or retreat of the bikes to reduce the apparent speed of the bikes. Also, my position in relation to the track, i.e., less than a metre from it, meant that side-on shots of the bikes were out of the question owing to bike speed.


Once you know your limits try for shots that best suit your situation. As a marshal you probably had opportunities with respect to proximity to the bikes others will not have. Hopefully this does not mean just pictures of the bikes on their trailers.

It does. I have access to the pits but that's about all.

I can get a few shots of the bikes going out onto track if I have help at pit exit. Unfortunately, when one is the only person at pit exit, it's often too hectic to get anything.

This was taken with my old iPhone (hence the poor quality) as I stood on the grid to line up the bikes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/546.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/810.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/547.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/545.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/548.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/549.jpg

[slug_burner]

I agree with the rest of the stuff you say, but... Id be very surprised if above is true. Even on the fastest USM L series Canon lenses the camera still won't take a shot until the AF says its in focus. ....

J

Jon,

I can't say I looked it up in the handbook so you could be correct. From my experience I have never had the sports mode, which shoots continuously while you hold the trigger, give a hint that it is shooting at a different frame rate. That in itself is not proof as it may be that the first shot can be delayed but I just have not noticed it.

[p38arover]

Ron, a thought bearing in mind I've never used it, but does the 100D do focus trapping (or catch in focus) ?

Basically set the focus point and press the shutter, it doesn't actually fire though until something is in the frame and in focus.

I thought about that on the weekend. Actually, I could have checked. I have downloaded the K100D manual in PDF onto my iPhone just so I could always have it on me.

I think the *istD had it so I assume the K100D does. I'll check.

[slug_burner]

It does have sports mode - I haven't used it. I have been using Tv (shutter priority) for this work. I'll try sports mode. I have tried continuous mode but I didn;t use it last week end.



Yes, that's why I was panning using the tripod (too hard to hand-hold a long lens). Again, I was using the approach or retreat of the bikes to reduce the apparent speed of the bikes. Also, my position in relation to the track, i.e., less than a metre from it, meant that side-on shots of the bikes were out of the question owing to bike speed.



I like the ones where you have maximised your advantageous position next to the track.

Like this one

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/810.jpg

and

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/03/545.jpg

as Arturo says a bit of PP and you get a bit more crisp if that's what you're after.

[MacMan]

I dabble in this professionally and even with bleeding edge gear, it's still an skill which only comes with perseverance, lots of mistakes, plenty of time rethinking shots and some luck sprinkled on top.

There was a comment about the Canon L USM lenses not allowing the shutter to fire without AF confirmation. It's not actually a function enforced by the lenses. My 1DMk4 has 4 settings in the AF system, two of which allow the user to fire the shutter regardless of what the AF is doing or saying, the other two give priority to AF tracking. I can't speak for other models since this is the only one I use for fast moving targets.

Ron, the advice with the slow moving corners is good for lots of reasons. With offroad bikes, so much of the good stuff happens into and out of corners. Panning is absolutely critical with ANY shutter speed unless they're coming straight at you or departing on the same path. Be creative with your composition. Try things that don't initially seem promising.

There's nothing stopping you shooting if your AF isn't up to catching speeding bullets. Preselection of focal point and timing will allow you to take surprising pictures with basic gear.

Also, great things can happen right up close. I was only about 5 or 10 metres from this guy if memory serves. Corner speed was down to less than 80kph but I was really swinging through and around the corner.

http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/bpu/1D4R0162b.jpeg

With patience and some careful trials you can go very slow indeed with shutter. With shots like this it's rare that you can capture everything in focus, but in so many shots the movement ads drama to the moment. Anyone who rides knows what this feels like. Bike working hard, tunnel vision looking through the corner but a mind full of serenity.

http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/bpu/1D4R9770.jpeg

I do mostly offroad stuff. I find it way more challenging, especially the rally events where the there's only one chance to get the shot and the fast guys are always at the front. There's no chance for a trial run!

Cyril Despres at the Australian Safari last year before he left the event.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Here's Jacob Smith who came second to older brother Todd. Jacob was riding with a broken foot. Rod who came third had a broken hand. They're tough cookies.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[MacMan]

I forgot to add, one of the things that I LOVE about the higher end Canons and Nikons is that it's possible to operate the AF with one button so the shutter button only takes the shot (or meters and shoots if you're using AV/TV modes). This means I can start and stop the AF anytime without upsetting the metering. It's probably less of a concern for your track work since there are fewer instances of shadows and more consistent light.

[p38arover]

Great shots, Macman. The type to which I aspire. With the road bikes, one can even see the detail in their leathers.

Do you shoot hand held or with a tripod/monopod?

Even with a monopod I find it difficult to steady a 300mm lens. I usually end up with the lens resting against a post.

[p38arover]

I forgot to add, one of the things that I LOVE about the higher end Canons and Nikons is that it's possible to operate the AF with one button so the shutter button only takes the shot (or meters and shoots if you're using AV/TV modes). This means I can start and stop the AF anytime without upsetting the metering. It's probably less of a concern for your track work since there are fewer instances of shadows and more consistent light.

I can set the camera so the AF is done via the Menu OK button on the back of the camera thus separating it from the shutter button.

[p38arover]

I like the ones where you have maximised your advantageous position next to the track.

<snip>

as Arturo says a bit of PP and you get a bit more crisp if that's what you're after.

Wakefield Park is a bit better than Eastern Creek for me.

Re PP, I'm really not that well up on it so I really don't know what to do. :confused:

[isuzurover]

...

Cyril Despres at the Australian Safari last year before he left the event.

http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/bpu/GHRS7671.jpg

Here's Jacob Smith who came second to older brother Todd. Jacob was riding with a broken foot. Rod who came third had a broken hand. They're tough cookies.

http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/bpu/110929_GHRS7643.jpg

Great pics! Finally some interesting 2-wheeled action ;) :wasntme:

[MacMan]

Great shots, Macman. The type to which I aspire. With the road bikes, one can even see the detail in their leathers.

Do you shoot hand held or with a tripod/monopod?

Even with a monopod I find it difficult to steady a 300mm lens. I usually end up with the lens resting against a post.

It depends on the lens and the situation. For the Safari shots I relied heavily on a monopod, only because I had one chance to get the shots I wanted. I was doing media work for the winning team and had to deliver for each day's press releases. It was a nuisance carting it everywhere though. For nearly all the shots I used a 70-200 F4.0L with image stabilisation (IS) but often turned the IS off because it doesn't always play nicely with a hard mount.

For track work I will often shoot with the same lens, IS on but off hand. The key to offhand work is to get your stance and support correct. It's very similar to shotgunning - support the camera with your leading hand under the lens, and put most of your body weight on your leading foor. With the panning shots, it pays to pick a bike 3 or 4 seconds before it ends up where you want to shoot. I take these kinds of panning shot with both eyes open. Once it's as close as the bike in the first shot I'm actually watching where it is with my left eye more than the right, almost sighting it over the lens. Stability comes if you swing from the knees and the hips rather than trying to track with your neck, mainly because the arms move less that way and I find it's my arms which introduce the really destructive wobble. Next time you're out at the track near a corner, just practice tracking the bikes without shooting. That way you start to get a feel for how much you need to move (it's a surprising amount) and you'll find the blackout time when the mirror is up less confusing. Then, pick your time, establish correct exposure and shoot in manual mode. If you can get down to 1/500 and still keep the bikes looking sharp you're getting the hang of it.

One of the super things with the 1D is the very short blackout time. It can rattle off 10 frames a second, but I normally knock it down to 5 or 6 unless I'm doing pass through shots with preselected focus. It does have some drawbacks though. The AF system is extremely complex and requires careful setup for each kind of shot. Set badly, and it will take pictures as bad as a ten year old pawn shop dunger. It took me a long time to come to grips with it and I still get caught sometimes.

I've used other bodies in the past but there's a reason that you see lots of these and Nikon D3/D3s bodies out there mounted on big lenses. Once you know what you are doing they make it much easier. But you can LEARN what you need to learn with anything.

[MacMan]

Great pics! Finally some interesting 2-wheeled action ;) :wasntme:

The only bad motorcycle is the one that doesn't go... I love them all, but these rally guys are amazing.

[MacMan]

If you want some more eye candy, try this.

http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/GHRPR/110923/Press%20Release/GHRPR_110923_1116_Web.JPG

Full size here. (http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/GHRPR/110923/Press%20Release/GHRPR_110923_1116.JPG)

2011 Safari winner Todd Smith.

http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/GHRPR/110929/GHRPR_110929_GHRS8119_web.jpg

Full size here. (http://www.sevenpoint.com.au/GHRPR/110929/GHRPR_110929_GHRS8119.jpg)

[p38arover]

I'll come back to the other points later as I'm just about to go out, however.....


For nearly all the shots I used a 70-200 F4.0L with image stabilisation (IS) but often turned the IS off because it doesn't always play nicely with a hard mount.

.... this reminded me that I'd read a warning (somewhere) to turn I stabilisation (shake reduction in the Pentax is in the camera, not the lenses) off when panning. I'd forgotten and I hadn't.

[MacMan]

Have a look at http://ghrhonda.dirtbike.com.au/blog/ Isuzurover.

Ron, I find half the fun is taking pictures of the other stuff that goes on around the track or bivouac. The Safari was fascinating for a change of scenery.

I'm already looking forward to the Condo 750 and Finke this year. In 2011 the team went to Dakar for the first time. They took 2012 off from Dakar to focus on development, but are giving it another nudge in 2013.

[p38arover]

Mongrel! Your pix are so good I feel embarrassed to show my feeble attempts! :(


:D

[slug_burner]

MacMan,

Great photos, I downloaded the full size images and zoomed in and still had sharp images.

What a diverse forum we have. South American Dakar! How's your Spanish, I am not at translator standard but I would not go hungry, thirsty, ...

Did you go the 70-200 f4 for the weight saving over the f2.8? I splashed out on the 2.8, I like it but don't lug my gear far from the car or have to hold it all day.


Ron,

A few people on here are practiced at PP and know what packages to use etc. I am sure they would help you along. I have an old copy of Photoshop which I can play around on but I am not a wiz. I only play around on special occasions when I turn one of my photos into a Christmas card for the family or have to use a photo for some special purpose.

You can polish a t..d but it will still be a t..d. It is better to start with a good picture. Work on knowing your equipment and getting your technique sorted instead of becoming PP wiz.

[300+]

Hi Ron, I think I'm not bad at landscape pictures, mediocre at wildlife and woeful at motorsports.

As a result I'm planning on some practice at Eastern Creek this Sunday. I will PM you my phone number and maybe we can compare cockups?

Cheers, Steve

[MacMan]

MacMan,

Great photos, I downloaded the full size images and zoomed in and still had sharp images.

What a diverse forum we have. South American Dakar! How's your Spanish, I am not at translator standard but I would not go hungry, thirsty, ...

Did you go the 70-200 f4 for the weight saving over the f2.8? I splashed out on the 2.8, I like it but don't lug my gear far from the car or have to hold it all day.


Thanks SB.

Spanish not flash, but the guys told me that it's very easy to get along with pretty much everyone so long as you're wearing team gear. Nobody goes hungry unless they're a vegetarian.

I'm very fussy with the focus, primarily because my pictures are also used by the team's sponsors for their own advertising. Their logos and gear have to be sharp and look good.

I have the 4.0L for two reasons - at the time of purchase it was sharper than the first generation F2.8L IS lenses, but it was also very much cheaper. The relatively light weight and slimmer shape is good, but it's still far from discreet. I would very much like one of the second generation F2.8L IS 70-200s because the larger aperture gives the AF more light and kicks off another 18 cross type sensors for the AF. The F4.0 lens means that the centre AF point is the only cross type sensor active. Doesn't sound like much but when trying to nail shots of fast bikes with cluttered backgrounds it's still easy to completely muff the focus.

[MacMan]

Ron, remember that good photographers never show people their duds :D

For all the camera gear in the world, everyone ends up with bad ones from time to time.

[p38arover]

Ron, remember that good photographers never show people their duds :D

That would mean I'd never show anything! :o

That bike under the canopy is terrific. The detail is there and in focus.

[MacMan]

That particular pic was taken with a 24-105 F4.0L IS mounted on a 5DMk2 - the main camera I use for product photography, people and general scenery shots. The resolution of that body is so good that you really can't get away with using cheap lenses. With my Sigma 50mm EX DG Macro F2.8 it is absolutely amazing. The AF on that body is flat out no good for motorsport, meaning if I want to use it they have to be pre-focus and pray type shots.

The Safari is an amazing event with so much interesting stuff going on, regardless of whether you're into two wheels or four.

Have a look at http://ghrhonda.dirtbike.com.au/blog/ if you've interested. All the Safari pics are mine and I'll be at Condo over Easter doing more of the same.

[MacMan]

I had a busy Easter :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/899.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/900.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/901.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/153.jpg

[300+]

I've just revisited this thread and noticed you have a cracker of an image here:






https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/810.jpg



I've taken the liberty of editing it a little. Bear in mind that the image was only 87KB so there is a lot of image detail lost to compression. This makes any editing a very tough job as you exaggerate any artefacts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/04/811.jpg

I did five things:

Croppped it.
Boosted the exposure as you are slightly underexposed.
Increased contrast to restore the dark track after I boosted the exposure.
Added some sharpening.
Decreased the vibrance & saturation. I wanted to boost them to really make it pop out, but the compressed image started looking very un-natural. So I went the other way.

I think the same edits on the full sized raw would look really good. You may even be able to boost the saturation without getting the same strange effect I was seeing.

The more I look at other people's images the more I realise that almost nothing is exactly as shot.

Cheers, Steve

Cheers, Steve

[vnx205]

I guess all you motorcycle/camera enthusiasts will be at Wakefield Park this weekend, 21st-22nd April to take some photos of your own. :D

Formula Xtreme Calendar (http://www.formula-xtreme.com.au/xtremema.nsf/CalendarPage?openform)

[p38arover]

Is it this weekend? :o

I've not seen anything from TerryO.

[vnx205]

I had a letter from Gloria back in about November or December with the form to complete.

[clubagreenie]

Aren't you glad about the advent of digital? When I started, with a 2nd hand Pentax spotmatic, box of lenses (all screw on no quick changes), all manual everything on a media we called filum spooled into a manual fill canister you could cram almost 100 shots into, 2-3 of which would be worthy.

PP was during printing adjusting times, light levels and even dodging with your hands across parts of the image to reduce exposure in parts of the image. I haven't really taken a picture since I could no longer buy Ilford 1000 in 500m rolls locally.

[PSi]

My best efforts from first attempt at photographing racing motorbikes, at wet Malaysian MotoGP 2009. First pic's cropped a lot tighter than I would've liked because these guys are so fast he was right at the left side of the frame with more empty space behind (right of pic). No media vest, shot as spectator from grandstand.
Shot with Nikon D700, at 400mm from 70-200 f2.8 (VR1), 2X teleconverter.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=45924&stc=1&d=1334583452

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=45926&stc=1&d=1334583764

[p38arover]

Shot with Nikon D700, at 400mm from 70-200 f2.8 (VR1), 2X teleconverter.

Nicely done, too!

Mongrel! :mad:





:D

[p38arover]

I had a letter from Gloria back in about November or December with the form to complete.

I probably won't be there - unless I can fix my fuel tank leak this week (my LPG system isn't working, either).

[loanrangie]

At Doohan's last race at Philip Island i raced out onto the track while he was doing his victory /goodbye cruise and trying to find him in the viewfinder of my 300mm lense, couldnt see him so moved camera away and he was just about to run me over so needless to say i didnt get that shot i wanted .

Some nice shots there fella's .

[p38arover]

At Doohan's last race at Philip Island i raced out onto the track while he was doing his victory /goodbye cruise and trying to find him in the viewfinder of my 300mm lense, couldnt see him so moved camera away and he was just about to run me over

Try keeping both eyes open and sighting with the unimpeded eye. I find that works with a video camera.

[loanrangie]

Much easier now with digital slr's, you can fire off thousands of shots to get the one good shot and just delete the rest.