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View Full Version : D4 Front End Alignment Advice....Please



Disco4SE
24th March 2012, 09:06 AM
Hi all,
I have my D4 booked in for a wheel alignment at my local Tyrepower store, first thing Monday morning.
Have noticed that when I turn the engine off, the front and rear lowers slightly because of the 200Kg or so that I keep in the back, and the OL bullbar at the front.

Now, in my way of thinking, the engine should be kept running whilst the wheel alignment is being done, therefore the level of the vehicle will replica the level that it is on the road. If you turn the engine off then do the alignment, it would have lowered unevenly, which in turn would alter once you are driving on the road.

Hope this makes sense.

Your opinions prior to Monday would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Craig

101RRS
24th March 2012, 09:13 AM
To do correctly by the book you need to get the dealer to lock the suspension first and then you gingerly drive (25kph ??) to the wheel aligner (if not the dealer) get the alignment done and dry gingerly back to the dealer to get it unlocked.

Garry

Robocop
24th March 2012, 09:28 AM
Can it be locked out using a faultmate?

Disco4SE
24th March 2012, 09:45 AM
Would / could my theory of keeping the motor running work??

Cheers, Craig
BTW: Thanks for your quick responses so far

kiwirich
24th March 2012, 09:52 AM
Hi Craig,

From the D3 forums, It seems that putting the Suspension into "Tight Tolerance" is the answer.

As I recall, Normal tolerance is 20mm permitted difference & Tight is 3mm.....

Or somethig like that

Richard

101RRS
24th March 2012, 09:57 AM
Would / could my theory of keeping the motor running work??

If you open a door before you turn the engine off and then turn off and leave a door open during the wheel alignment it should not move - maybe.

Garry

Disco4SE
24th March 2012, 10:01 AM
If you open a door before you turn the engine off and then turn off and leave a door open during the wheel alignment it should not move - maybe.

Garry
Interesting theory Gary. Will see if it works.

Heading out for a while now. Will check the forum again later.
Please keep your advice coming.

BTW: This forum is invaluable.

Cheers, Craig

Graeme
24th March 2012, 11:15 AM
When mine was done prior to having a Faultmate which can set TT mode, the engine was switched off through the open driver's window after the doors were closed then the main suspension ecu fuse removed to prevent any adjustment.

However I wouldn't get mine aligned at tyre outlet - I went to a specialist alignment and mechanical workshop. They set the left side slightly differently to the right to cater for road camber. That was 50K kms ago and the tyres fitted 40K ago are wearing well, even though I raised the front 10mm using Faultmate soon afterwards.

Celtoid
24th March 2012, 12:31 PM
Would / could my theory of keeping the motor running work??

Cheers, Craig
BTW: Thanks for your quick responses so far

Hey mate,

Not on it's own. My understanding is that the suspension will continually try to adjust...even a little, will/may stuff the result.

There are lots of places that claim they can do a D3/4/RRS properly but few that actually can.

I had an insurance claim done for some minor damage that I had underneath my car and it was done by a brand new BMW place that RACQ recommended. They had a 'state of the art' workshop and stated that they could check and alter my alignment no worries at all.

I thought nothing of it until a few months later when my car got serviced by LR and the alignment was out by miles. In the BMW to LR timframe my car had never been off the road nor hit any big holes, etc.

Conversly in the timeframe between that LR service and the one I got a couple of weeks ago, my alignment had only shifted a little but was still within spec. I've had the car off road probably a dozen times in that timframe and that has been weekends and weeks at a time.

I wouldn't go outside LR. I know in most cases they won't do it but they will send it to somebody that knows what they are doing, after LR lock it down.

Cheers,

Kev.

Disco4SE
24th March 2012, 02:01 PM
I know a fellow AULRO member had his done through two different dealerships and wasn't happy with the result from either.
This is why I thought I'd give the local guys a go. Known them for about 10 years and they are confident that they can get it right, as they have done several Disco's before.

Wait and see I suppose.

Thanks heaps for your advice. Think I might try removing the suspension fuse as Graeme mentioned.
BTW Graeme - Which one is it?????

Cheers, Craig

Graeme
24th March 2012, 03:06 PM
Engine bay fuse 26 (20A) in my D4 is the main suspension ecu supply.

Disco4SE
24th March 2012, 03:42 PM
Engine bay fuse 26 (20A) in my D4 is the main suspension ecu supply.
Thanks for the info Graeme.

Cheers, Craig

boofdtl
24th March 2012, 07:14 PM
Mate do them all the time and have no probs with them at all bring it in if you like and will do it for you i am there monday and tuesday then got for 3weeks off but can get you in if you want.......

Robocop
24th March 2012, 08:06 PM
Very interesting. I was about to ask the same alignment question. I just came back from a 1750km round trip. Prior to this I used my faultmate to reset the height 20mm. By eye I couldn't see an issue with the front end, however, the rear at times I swore I saw positive camber. I did bring my faultmate + tough book with me but left it on & it was flat. My fault. Anyway on my return home I noticed additional wear to the outer edges of the rear tyres. I have since lowered it to standard height but wondered about a rear end alignment.

Graeme
24th March 2012, 10:13 PM
Mine chopped-out the 1st set of tyres by around 25K, mostly on the left side. The alignment was within LR specs but both front and rear left were at the wrong end of tolerance whereas the right side were at about middle of the specs range.