Front Axle Question

[outback jeff]

Hi all,
I am just wanting to know if someone can tell me if a Series III front axle will fit under a Series I. The axle I have needs work, so if the Series III one I know of will fit it will save a lot of money.

Cheers Jeff

[goingbush]

It will fit a later series one with the wide front springs & rear shackles.
Wheel track will be a little wider so you should also put a series 2 or series 3 back end in it as well. Using standard rims the outside of the tyre will be in line with the body work

[outback jeff]

Thanks Goingbush looks like I will have to find a rear one as well.

Cheers Jeff

[russellrovers]

[QUOTE=outback jeff;1652303]Thanks Goingbush looks like I will have to find a rear one as well.

Cheers Jeff[/what do you need to keep to s1 jim

[goingbush]

Thanks Goingbush looks like I will have to find a rear one as well.

Cheers Jeff

One thing to watch The rear one will need to be from a SWB unless your prepared to move the spring perches as the LWB springs are on the outside of the chassis rails instead of directly under them.
..Don

[outback jeff]

Thanks Don, I'll keep that in mind

Jim, the front axle I have is in need of a major overhaul and I was just trying to find an option that doesn't cost as much. Do you have front Series I axles for sale?

Cheers Jeff

[russellrovers]

Thanks Don, I'll keep that in mind

Jim, the front axle I have is in need of a major overhaul and I was just trying to find an option that doesn't cost as much. Do you have front Series I axles for sale?

Cheers Jeffyes i have for sale ring me n 0428732001

[outback jeff]

yes i have for sale ring me n 0428732001

Thanks Jim, it will be later in the week , I'm out on site for a few days.

Cheers Jeff

[JDNSW]

A bit more work, but probably not any more expense - just swap all the bits from the later axle, keeping only the axle housing and half axles - I'm pretty certain everything else will fit.

A few things to watch in either case - Most threads on the S1 will be BSF, but S3 will be UNF with maybe some metric if it is late. A particular thing to watch is tie rod ends. Tie rod ends from Series 1 up to early Series 3 used a shank into the tube with about a centimetre unthreaded. Later S3 are fully threaded. These two types must be matched between the tie rod end and the thread - failure to do so has resulted in fatal accidents. The thread on the taper bit that goes through the hole in the arm does not matter, and the tapers are all the same.

John

[outback jeff]

A bit more work, but probably not any more expense - just swap all the bits from the later axle, keeping only the axle housing and half axles - I'm pretty certain everything else will fit.

A few things to watch in either case - Most threads on the S1 will be BSF, but S3 will be UNF with maybe some metric if it is late. A particular thing to watch is tie rod ends. Tie rod ends from Series 1 up to early Series 3 used a shank into the tube with about a centimetre unthreaded. Later S3 are fully threaded. These two types must be matched between the tie rod end and the thread - failure to do so has resulted in fatal accidents. The thread on the taper bit that goes through the hole in the arm does not matter, and the tapers are all the same.

John

Hi John, is it the whole half shaft or is it only the piece from the uni back to the diff?

Jeff

[JDNSW]

Hi John, is it the whole half shaft or is it only the piece from the uni back to the diff?

Jeff

Only from the uni back to the diff, (note that early 80" have a completely different half shaft with a Tracta joint not a U-joint) but easier to swap the whole shaft. Note that lwb and late swb S3 have 24 spline outer ends and have matching drive flanges, so if your S3 has these and you are using the S1 half shafts you need to use the S1 drive flanges.

Note that the top swivel in the S1 had spring loaded taper steel/bronze bush replaced during S2/2a production by a straight railko bush and thrust washer - a much improved system, that the S1 setup is best converted to (unless you are a stickler for originality).

John

[Lost Landy]

Only from the uni back to the diff, (note that early 80" have a completely different half shaft with a Tracta joint not a U-joint) but easier to swap the whole shaft. Note that lwb and late swb S3 have 24 spline outer ends and have matching drive flanges, so if your S3 has these and you are using the S1 half shafts you need to use the S1 drive flanges.

Note that the top swivel in the S1 had spring loaded taper steel/bronze bush replaced during S2/2a production by a straight railko bush and thrust washer - a much improved system, that the S1 setup is best converted to (unless you are a stickler for originality).

John

Just my 2 cents worth of info there are 2 types of set ups for the series 1 swivel berings you have the early style used from 1948 to 1953 then the later style from 1954 to 1958 the 2 types are not interchangable!