Methods of rust proofing? Thread?

[jimb]

I read some suggestions about best DIY Rudy proofing but cannot find them searching the forum in phone (and computer is currently dead).

Any suggestions?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps'll=-21.060579,149.162388

[ScottyD]

Hi Jim,

I sprayed mine when it was new with Lanolin after much reading. You can get it from Supercheap in small spray bottles or they will order in 4L (or was it 5L) tins and it is a natural product. I used just under 5L for the whole underneath of the car and gave it a good few coats. Its not the worst stuff the work with, but makes for an interesting day. I used a spray gun on an air compressor to apply it. I also used another air tool, forget the name, but it was like a spray gun but had a long flexible hose on the end to get to hard to reach spots.

Its only been on there for about 9months but seems to be doing its job anyway. For the first few weeks the car had a lovely waxy smell too. Dirt sticks to it like you would not believe though, so don't expect to ever have a clean underside again. It makes the car look used anyway :)

Cheers,
Scott

[Jojo]

Don't know which thread you are referring to, but all my trucks are professionally treated with Dinitrol. You could do it yourself, but it's a messy affair. As for home made corrosion protection, linseed oil is highly recommended and often used by oldtimer enthusiasts and other afficionados. And completely natural, btw.
Cheers

[kangaroo]

Can you tell me where I can source Dinitrol in Aus? Cheers

[bell1975]

Can you tell me where I can source Dinitrol in Aus? Cheers

I can't find it at the moment but there was a thread in 2011 that dealt with rust proofing. If I find it tomorrow I'll link to it here for your reference.

I'll also send you a PM on Monday that has the details of where to get Dinitrol in Australia. I enquired about ordering some a couple of years back. I've found the emails the importer sent me. It might be useful to you.

[skc]

http://www.storkawd.com.au/products.asp?BrandID={CC19D778-70B2-4CF5-A292-201326CDAB3B}&Brand=Dinitrol

[bell1975]

This is the thread (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/129883-rust-proofing-my-110-a.html#post1522311), well, only two posts, so it hardly qualifies as a thread from August 2011.

And the PM I'll send tomorrow has more details on the distributors, StorkAWD, as above. Hope this helps.

I found another mob that did the cavity wax option that is also recommended. Link here (http://por15.com.au). Select Bilt-Hamber and then Dynax S50 and Dynax UB. These are available in Australia. I still have a can of the S50 in my shed that I was going to do the internal cavities in my Disco with....one day. IIRC it was approx $50-60 for the can. I can't remember what the UB stuff was worth. UB for underbody.

[modman]

I use water based rust converters on used cars/projects then fish oil after its dry
First make sure all the dirt is washed out of the cavities- chassis, firewall, doors using a hose or high pressure lance squirting into chassis holes, door drains, front top hinge bolt holes. Strip door skins if necessary.
My 2 tricks are using a 'kero/parts washer' gun and spraying rust convertor into all cavities until it runs out( following the natural path of water)
Then once dry do the same with fish oil
Works really well in doors and the firewall
With used cars I even get a dish washing brush and the hose into cavities like doors on a Landy. The kero gun really sprays the oil up into the firewall cavities at 100psi:D
The cleaning isn't so important with new cars and fish oil doesn't stink like it used too
Dc

[Loubrey]

Over here in the West I searched high and low to find someone who will do it professionally, but not much success. Our plant (construction machinery) manager pointed me towards Valvoline Tectyl 506 if you want to do DIY. It's a petroleum distillate based wax that is not biodegradable and will act as a "apply and forget" product.

Sold by Supacheap in not so cheap 400g cans or Blackwoods in the same 400g cans, 1 liter and 4 liter tins.

Valvoline Tectyl 506 Rust Preventative, 400g - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Valvoline-Tectyl-506-Rust-Preventative-400g.aspx?pid=1528#Cross)

Rust Prevention (http://www.blackwoods.com.au/search?q=tectyl+506)

And MSDS for those Worksafe minded:

http://www.msdsonline.com.au/blackwoods/msds/MainMenu.asp

I've so far only done sections on my chassis where I've attached accessories and the like and there is a clear difference in the treated and untreated sections.

It dries in a honey coloured lacquer/wax layer that's impact and pressure washer resistant.

Cheers,

Lou

[kangaroo]

Thanks for all the info, much appreciated. Hard to choose which way to go but have read some good reports re Dinitrol so will have a go with that first.

[Cracka]

Hey Lou, does the Tectyl 506 attract dirt like some of the other products spoken about.

Mick

[Loubrey]

Hi Cracka,

Can say that it does. I got the car very dirty 2 weekends ago and used the commercial jet wash at the drive through on the chassis and everything washed off. If anything it seemed to repel the mud as it washed of much easier on the treated sections than the untreated sections.

It feels waxy to the touch (like a candle), but definitely not tacky.

I'm not personally a fan of the organic type stuff (lanolin and fish oil), but that is honestly just personal preference and no reflection on the performance of those products. Most guys on here in fact prefer those two products.

I had my last 90 in the UK professionally wax-oiled and the protections was spectacular. I'm after something similar over here and the best I've found to date is the Tectyl product.

Denitrol definitely has a very good name in Europe, but it's technically a Naphta product (Distillates (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy naphthenic) which is the same as Tectyl 506 which is in turn widely available in Australia.

Cheers,

Lou

[Flipper]

Spray raw Linseed oil and you will never have corrosion.
Put it in a spay gun with a long nozzle and saturate everything.
Linseed oil is natural and very cheap compared to chemicals on the market and will be far superior in its protection.
It will go off with a very hard near unmovable brownish tinge if you get in on the paint work. So for some some weeks after spraying keep the vehicle polished.

[Cracka]

Thanks Lou, I hadn't really planned on doing anything but I know I should:p If I do go ahead, I don't want to use something that attracts everything and acts like fly paper. As long as it cleans up and as you said easier than the untreated sections this tectyl could be a goer.


Flipper, does the linseed dry completely or stay tacky.


Mick

[kangaroo]

Thanks, will look into the Tectyl 506 as it seems to be readily available, as you said, and is similar to Dinitrol.

[Flipper]

Thanks Lou, I hadn't really planned on doing anything but I know I should:p If I do go ahead, I don't want to use something that attracts everything and acts like fly paper. As long as it cleans up and as you said easier than the untreated sections this tectyl could be a goer.


Flipper, does the linseed dry completely or stay tacky.


Mick
It sets off rock hard after a few weeks. It is very runny at first and will get into all seams, but sets like cement after a short time. I was told about this from an old timer and how they prevented cars from rusting using Linseed oil. I treat everything including my trailer with Linseed oil and there has never been a spot of rust and this being living on the coast. It is the ultimate in true protection!

[Cracka]

Thanks Flipper, well it is another option. I'm assuming that it doesn't soften or run in hot weather.

Mick

[Flipper]

Thanks Flipper, well it is another option. I'm assuming that it doesn't soften or run in hot weather.

Mick

No, and as I said before it sets like cement and that is an understatement summer or winter.
You will never have rust or corrosion with an area sprayed with Linseed oil! It penetrates everything while in liquid form and then dries off into a super hard layer beyond what any chemical cocktail can achieve.
It is the ultimate rust proofing substance and is totally natural.

[Cracka]

No, and as I said before it sets like cement and that is an understatement summer or winter.
You will never have rust or corrosion with an area sprayed with Linseed oil! It penetrates everything while in liquid form and then dries off into a super hard layer beyond what any chemical cocktail can achieve.
It is the ultimate rust proofing substance and is totally natural.

Good onya Flipper thanks for that.

Mick

[Pickles2]

I use water based rust converters on used cars/projects then fish oil after its dry
First make sure all the dirt is washed out of the cavities- chassis, firewall, doors using a hose or high pressure lance squirting into chassis holes, door drains, front top hinge bolt holes. Strip door skins if necessary.
My 2 tricks are using a 'kero/parts washer' gun and spraying rust convertor into all cavities until it runs out( following the natural path of water)
Then once dry do the same with fish oil
Works really well in doors and the firewall
With used cars I even get a dish washing brush and the hose into cavities like doors on a Landy. The kero gun really sprays the oil up into the firewall cavities at 100psi:D
The cleaning isn't so important with new cars and fish oil doesn't stink like it used too
Dc
Sounds like you've done a few rustproofing jobs....do you do it professionally or just when you need to on your own vehicles?
Cheers, Pickles.

[HardCharger]

What about Couplertec? Isn't that supposed to stop rust too?

[jabber]

Found this thread pretty helpful too:
Defender2 - View topic - Corrosion Prevention Guide! (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html)

[bell1975]

What about Couplertec? Isn't that supposed to stop rust too?

Opinions vary as to the effectiveness of these devices.

My personal experience with them is on Toyota 79 series utes that live on Fraser Island, Qld.

I see evidence of corrosion in multiple places on these vehicles -and IIRC they are fitted with the 6 pad kits. These vehicles get washed down on a daily basis with clean water (underbody hose down for anything between 10-20 minutes and a weekly exterior wash with detergent). They are also given a 0km, 10 000km, 20 000km, 30 000km Tectyl 506 treatment. And to top it off they get a weekly spray (mostly underbody but also steel components of the alloy tray fitments) with Lanox MX6.

And they still rust.

I haven't got photos to hand but if I posted some of them you'd not believe that the electronic prevention systems are that effective - maybe in some environments but IME not when they live on an island surrounded by salt water.;)

[chook73]

No, and as I said before it sets like cement and that is an understatement summer or winter.
You will never have rust or corrosion with an area sprayed with Linseed oil! It penetrates everything while in liquid form and then dries off into a super hard layer beyond what any chemical cocktail can achieve.
It is the ultimate rust proofing substance and is totally natural.

How does it go on surfaces that have already started rusting? Does it slow down/stop the rusting process or just stop new rust from starting?

[BilboBoggles]

I did some experiments with linseed oil vs Tectyl 506 vs Lanolin. I did not like the linseed oil as much because it went hard, and I found on a couple of surfaces it wrinkled up - which I did not like. I also found it quite hard to remove.

The Lanolin was not very good where road spray or road much abraded it off. It did not seem to last very long. But on inside panels it's very good.

The best for the outside was Tectyl 506 - it went on reasonably thick - gets a hard surface - but stays waxy and soft underneath. If it gets scratched or damaged the surrounding tectyl flows and fills the damage (according to the manual).. Best of all it can be removed with a hot wash or solvent.

The other rust proofer I use throughout the inside of the Defender is INOX MX3. This stuff is extremely good at seeping and it stays a liquid forever. I'm looking out now at my dirty 2003 Defender and I can see where the MX3 has seeped out of the doors and up the sides by a good 6 inches! So I know it's seeping into all the cracks and gaps in the doors. (I applied it last around Christmas time - about 6 months ago... I've done some tests with MX3 on some very thin sheet iron, and it seems to be very good at rust proofing. I've squirted that all over the inside of the bulkhead, inside the bulkhead, rear cappings, and inside the chassis.

One last trick I use to keep rust out of the floor area on my defenders. I bought some large 1/2kg packs of Silica gel on eBay. One pack under each floor mat keeps the floor area bone dry for a good month or so. Then 20 mins on the microwave on Defrost and its dried and ready to use again. (Just measure their weight when you get them, and microwave on low until it's back to that weight.)