Slack in the DRIVE train

[fid-def]

Defender county 110 Isuzu 4bd1 - Salisbury rear with maxdeive shafts and members on rear and standard on from (LR diff)

Need a bit of advice on the clunk on gearchange. I think the slack is in the front diff. Jacked up each wheel one at a time and rotated the wheel till the prop shaft started to turn. Both back wheels mesh up almost straight away and prop shaft turns. on the front I have about 75mm rotation on outside of tyre before the propshaft moves (same both sides). from memory (long rebuild) when I put the front axle together the CVs had no noticable play. The diff however was rebuilt by ALL 4X4 at Kotara and I put it in as supplied. I assume the diff needs adjustment but don't no for sure and don't know how to adjust it (shims I guess).

Any views gratefully considered.

[tonic]

Check all your rear bushes, trailing ARM, a frame ball joint,etc, might not be in drive line

[fid-def]

Bushes all replaced and A frame balljoint re kitted - all tight. still think it's in the front.

PS lot of posts haha

[centy]

still check the bushes.
on my car i replaced all the suspension arms with brand new arm n bushes 18 months later the bushes are gone, not worn but gone.

[fid-def]

mmm.. only done 200k since rebuilt

[steveG]

Have you checked for worn splines on the front drive flanges?
You could pull the front prop shaft out, lock the center diff and test drive it to see if the clunk is still there.
How long ago was the front diff rebuilt? The cross pin can wear in the carrier and create a lot of backlash.

Steve

[fid-def]

Front splines into drive members seems like a solid fit. Diff rebuilt 3 years back but vehicle only just finished so only 200km driven. With the cross pin wear is that just a replacement pin ?

[steveG]

Front splines into drive members seems like a solid fit. Diff rebuilt 3 years back but vehicle only just finished so only 200km driven. With the cross pin wear is that just a replacement pin ?

Gotcha. Was thinking it had done a fair few since rebuild.
No, the ones I've seen wear the carrier itself :( If its only done 200km since it was rebuilt then I would expect its OK.

Thinking about it a bit more, that 75mm rotation would be about normal I reckon.
Was the transfer case rebuilt or looked at during your rebuild?
If you put the handbrake on, gearbox in gear, can you rotate the front output shaft much? (need to take the front shaft off or lift a front wheel to check).

Steve

[fid-def]

ok another job for the morning

[fid-def]

just rechecked the rear and get 30mm play front moe than double that. I'll continue to investigate

[DeeJay]

just rechecked the rear and get 30mm play front moe than double that. I'll continue to investigate

They allow for that much in a RWC it is not unusual. I assume you mean 30 Deg rotation before taking up the slack?

[fid-def]

not degrees millimeters. Rotate wheel till slack takent up and prop/diff flange moves. Then pick a point on the outside edge of the tyre and rotate wheel in other direction till prop starts to turn. wheel travel on rear is 30mm but on front it's more than double - shouldnt they be close to the same?

[steveG]

not degrees millimeters. Rotate wheel till slack takent up and prop/diff flange moves. Then pick a point on the outside edge of the tyre and rotate wheel in other direction till prop starts to turn. wheel travel on rear is 30mm but on front it's more than double - shouldnt they be close to the same?

Can't say I've actually measured mine, but I'd expect the front to have a bit more than the rear as there are extra splines (inner axle to CV) and the CV itself.
60mm on the front doesn't sound bad to me. Pretty sure mine would have at least that, and no clunk.
Have you driven it without the front propshaft yet?

Steve

[fid-def]

steve i haven't had a chance yet but will pull the front prop out on Friday - really interested to see where the noise is coming from. If it's coming from the back and there's no real slack in the rear diff or half shafts, where else could it be - the A frame is all good new bushes and ball joint kit. I guess we'll see if the clunk is there. Still think it's up front in diff..... To be continued

[fid-def]

Tonic you got it first time its the A frame ball joint. Mine is a Boge self leveler that I want to replace - I have a later model defender (for spares) without the sef leveler is this compatible and is the ball joint removable on that or is it a sealed unit

[isuzutoo-eh]

Boge self leveller is seperate to the ball joint, the one from the defender will be compatible but the actual ball joint is cheap to replace. The rear springs may need replacing if they are original spec to suit the load leveller though.

[fid-def]

Boge self leveller is seperate to the ball joint, the one from the defender will be compatible but the actual ball joint is cheap to replace. The rear springs may need replacing if they are original spec to suit the load leveller though.

Thought I might remove the Boge as I'm pretty sure it doesn't work and go with the simpler A frame end piece with ball joint.

[isuzutoo-eh]

You can just remove the Boge unit and leave the rest of the brackets. They don't get in the way. I'm putting a working Boge back in mine when I get the money to upgrade shocks/springs etc.
if you do get rid of the Boge bits, can I please have them? ;)

[fid-def]

Hi Mark

I'll try to get time this weekend or next to pull the boge out. You're welcome to the unit. You ever get around North Sydney that's where I work.

[fid-def]

CLONK GONE! A frame ball joint replaced. Feels like a different vehicle - excellent. TONIC said it in the first post. The problem was that the ball joint on the bracket has a removable and greasable top cap. The balljoint had pushed right up through the cap. New one much better design and only $50 or a bit less. Thanks for all the feedback. I was convinced that the ball joint was ok.... Wrong!!

[fid-def]

You can just remove the Boge unit and leave the rest of the brackets. They don't get in the way. I'm putting a working Boge back in mine when I get the money to upgrade shocks/springs etc.
if you do get rid of the Boge bits, can I please have them? ;)

Boge unit out yours if you want it Mark

[dick180641]

I got tired of the 'clunk-clunk' on a trip to the Cape some years ago so I pulled whole Leveler out at Bamaga, no bloody difference! Replaced the $60.00 BALL JOINT, rides like a dream