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Andrew D
8th April 2012, 11:25 AM
Guys,

My rear brake lights no longer work. (all three)

I have checked the fuses and they appear to be ok. The reversring lights work (fuse 25). Have also check fuse (31 or 33) and appears to be ok.

Any other suggestions for the fault. Could it be the break pedal switch. (How would you know).

All other lights works ok. (Indicators/hazards , tail, rear fog and reverse lights).

Regards
Andrew

P.S. thanks Pedro.

D2 D2a 2003

biggin
8th April 2012, 12:10 PM
Fuse 25 supplies brake lights and reverse lights. As you have reverse lights, fault must be either brake switch or harness wiring.
My money would be on the brake switch not making when the pedal is pressed.
I'm not really sure on the setup with the brake switch, but it shouldn't be too hard to test.

bobslandies
8th April 2012, 01:33 PM
If it is anything like my '91 RR Classic it is quite likely that the brake light switch has fallen out of its mounting hole.

The design has a sliding tapered inner piece that is supposed to spread the outer mounting flange on the body of the switch and hold the switch assembly in the mounting hole. The switch plunger that contacts the pedal also has an adjustable centre ratchetting section. Even a new one comes loose and then - no brake lights.
Hope this helps.

Earlier types had a simple screw thread adjustment with locknuts. Much more reliable!

Bob

Wasa57
8th April 2012, 01:53 PM
Unless you have blown 3 globes, probably the pedal switch.
R&C 4X4 have one listed for $13.05 plus $4.61 postage - under 20 clams delivered to you from the old dart!
Lots of other cheap D2 goodies listed.

Andrew D
9th April 2012, 10:15 AM
Thanks guys,

Just got home and the cruise control didn't cancel as easy when using the brake so I'm assuming it's related to the switch.


Regards
Andrew

Andrew D
9th April 2012, 12:00 PM
Back to the drawing board.

Pulled the switch and tested for resistance when open and closed and looks ok.

Inserted a piece of electric wire across the multi-plug which goes into the brake switch and this ideally should have put the brake lights on but no go.

What's next. Brake Lamp Relay? (Harness wire and where to start?).

Regards
Andrew

biggin
9th April 2012, 12:24 PM
Firstly, with the ignition on, check that you have 12v at terminal 1 (green/orange wire) of the brake pedal switch connector and ground. Then short out terminal 1 and 3 (green/purple). This should put 12v at the brake lights.
If still no 12v at brake lights you have a wiring harness problem.:(

Andrew D
9th April 2012, 01:05 PM
Biggin

What about the brake lamp relay. Just looking through the workshop manual and it indicates from the ECU is a brake lamp relay and all ABS,TC & HDC should work (which is my case). Only thing is I cant find the brake lamp relay.

What's the likely outcome if it's the wiring harness. Is it big dollars or is this a 'how long is a piece of string question'.

Would like to eliminate the brake lamp relay first.

Will have another go at your procedure but still maybe the brake lamp relay.

Regards
Andrew

biggin
9th April 2012, 01:50 PM
If you look at page 43.1 (Exterior Lamps - Brake and Reverse Lamps) of the electrical circuit diagrams in RAVE you will see that fuse 25 directly feeds the brake pedal switch which puts power directly onto the brake lights. If you don't have 12v on terminal 3 of the brake switch when it is operated, then you will have no lights. If you do, and still have no lights then you have a wiring/connector problem.
My understanding is that the relay is for the SLABS ECU to bring on the brake lights automatically when in hill decent mode, but I stand to be corrected here.
Anyway, the relay is independant of the brake light operation via the brake pedal switch.
Hope this makes sense.:D

Andrew D
9th April 2012, 02:23 PM
My understanding is when in HDC mode the ECU use the brake light relay when braking force is being applied (same). Not sure what's involved with the harness and why it would give way.

This maybe one for the mechanics.

Regards
Andrew

Andrew D
9th April 2012, 03:02 PM
It was the brake light switch (or has to be).

Did the check you suggested plus I closed the circuit with a off-cut of electric wire. +12v at the plug with the multi meter and lights on with the closing of the circuit. (What did I do wrong with the first short circuit? I didn't have the keys in the ignition at one click prior to start engine). Rookie's Mistakes 101.

Will be getting a new brake light switch.

Regards
Andrew

Marmoset
14th May 2013, 09:19 PM
Andrew,

Did the new switch sort this? Just had the same issue crop up on my car today, lights work so it all points to the switch - new one ordered.

Cheers

Rich

Andrew D
15th May 2013, 09:44 PM
Rich

Yes, fixed my problem. You can use a piece of wire to confirm by closing the circuit but wouldn't be to conerned either way.

I ordered mine from the UK and waited 2 weeks for it to arrive:D. Anything to save a buck.

A mototrist on the Bruce Highway at the twin BPs gave me the heads up that I had no breaklights (only doing 20km/hr in a traffic jam over Christmas). At the point of no return as I was heading to Noosa Heads.

Regards
Andrew

chuck
4th February 2023, 01:02 PM
Just confirming an old thread.

All three brake lights are not working.

Cruise control does not cancel via brake aaplication.

Reverse lights are working.

All fuses seem to be ok.

Reading thru thread it would appear i need a new brake pedal switch??

Anyone know where to buy one in stock in Melbourne??

Expertise welcome.

sierrafery
4th February 2023, 07:02 PM
You can try to adjust the existing switch and check if the connector is well plugged, depress the pedal and pull the plunger out of the switch's body to max allowed maybe it works

chuck
5th February 2023, 08:37 AM
Got the switch out & disassembled.

Plunger is not travelling full depth and gets stuck half way in allowing only limited travel.

Got to try & find one in stock due to limited timing until car goes back in for RWC.

Tins
5th February 2023, 10:26 AM
Got the switch out & disassembled.

Plunger is not travelling full depth and gets stuck half way in allowing only limited travel.

Got to try & find one in stock due to limited timing until car goes back in for RWC.

Gee, they do seem to be thin on the ground...

I haven't seen him for a while, but there was a member on here from I think Kyneton (or Kilmore, "K" seems to stick) who wrecked D2s. A SH one would get you out of trouble. I'll try and remember his username. Maybe someone else will have clearer memories.

EDIT: Possibly no help, but I believe it's the same switch in the P38.

chuck
5th February 2023, 12:51 PM
Yes Autofarm & Engineering in Kilmore East

Will ring them tomorrow morning.

Got number plate late fitting from them on Thursday.

Cheers