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aussearcher
9th April 2012, 08:29 PM
Hi everyone,
I've recently acquired a '98 Disco 1 V8. The transfer box is leaking from the input shaft. The Haynes manual I have says that you have to drop the entire gearbox and transfer case assembly out. I have however been told that you CAN get the transfer off whilst leaving the gearbox in the car. Is this true, and if so, how hard is it - and also to get it back in? I have access to a hoist and a transmission jack. Or do I just bite the bullet and pay someone else to do it?
Thanks!

Blknight.aus
9th April 2012, 08:39 PM
doable... 3 strong blokes makes it nice and easy....

aussearcher
9th April 2012, 08:54 PM
Thanks - any tips?

langy
9th April 2012, 09:12 PM
Yep
- get a LR manual and an Electronic Parts Catalog on CD from the SHOP ( top toolbar). The EPC will help in determining parts numbers.

- plan on replacing the intermediate shaft o-rings and the output seals as well as the input seal.

- Use the cut-off-bolts tip from the manual to aid assembly.

- Avoid the dealerships re parts. There are a fair number of specialist LR parts suppliers.

- If you run out of friends, take the handbrake assembly off before removing the TC. This lightens the load so 1 strong person can handle it.

- number the bolts' location when you remove them. If you put a longer bolt in the wrong place it will lock a gearwheel.

bee utey
9th April 2012, 09:14 PM
Thanks - any tips?

Guide pins. Cut the heads off two 200mm long M10 bolts, screw them instead of two of the short bolts, slide the case off along these to prevent damage to the seal. Make a steel bracket to bolt to the lower cover plate to attatch to your trans jack to keep the box level on the way out.

jimbob292
9th April 2012, 11:02 PM
The bracket diagram for the transfer box, auto box brackets can be located in the rave cd, very good, i had one made up and bolted it to my 3 ton trolley jack, so easy once it took the strain.

Hardest part was removing all the bolts and propshaft.

It'sNotWorthComplaining!
13th April 2012, 06:05 PM
after you have done it, light a fire and use the Haynes manual as fuel and BBQ a couple of snags and sink an ale.
That's all the Haynes manuals are good for

Blknight.aus
13th April 2012, 06:48 PM
after you have done it, light a fire and use the Haynes manual as fuel and BBQ a couple of snags and sink an ale.
That's all the Haynes manuals are good for

thats not true at all...

you can use them for lots of other things...

door jams, leveler blocks, wheel chocks, desk protectors, paper mache, BB back stops, slingshot targets, cutting bases, draught stoppers, the covers used to be good as gaskets, back filler for bogging walls, coasters,

aussearcher
13th April 2012, 08:19 PM
Yes, I have to say I've found the Haynes less than informative on a number of matters! Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'll let you know how I go.

zapata1
13th April 2012, 10:28 PM
Its a big job in one sense if you have the tools and confidence to do it have a crack. however i blew the auto in my 85 rr and had to drop the transfer case lt 230 like yours and that cost about 800 to take it out and put it back in. so at a 75-100 per hour thats a pretty big labour cost....thats in regional victoria not city prices? good luck.

It'sNotWorthComplaining!
13th April 2012, 10:50 PM
thats not true at all...

you can use them for lots of other things...

door jams, leveler blocks, wheel chocks, desk protectors, paper mache, BB back stops, slingshot targets, cutting bases, draught stoppers, the covers used to be good as gaskets, back filler for bogging walls, coasters,
They are definitely no good in the bush, I found bark softer than a haynes page for dunny paper

7knightsfishing
16th August 2014, 02:43 PM
after you have done it, light a fire and use the Haynes manual as fuel and BBQ a couple of snags and sink an ale.
That's all the Haynes manuals are good for
Love it!