View Full Version : New Ashcroft Rover Differential? can anyone confirm
butundede
11th April 2012, 07:53 PM
There are rumours that Ashcroft is going to make a super diff to fit the Rover housing? Can anyone elaborate on this? Timeline?
Would be a great solution to the shortage of ABS Salisbury units out there.
Cheers Bob
dullbird
11th April 2012, 08:11 PM
with any luck the man himself will answer you he frequents this forum a fair bit...
I might change your title to attract attention
TimNZ
11th April 2012, 08:15 PM
Would be nice! I'd personally like to have a drop in replacement for the current "P38a type" that would use a standard (LR) rear prop.
However, I'm still on my original diff after 60,000km's, so perhaps LR have started making them out of a higher grade of cheese?
Cheers,
Tim
P.S. Come on Dave, (Ashtrans), you know you want to build them! :)
Psimpson7
11th April 2012, 08:29 PM
could it be the Force 9, which is already available?
Ashcroft Transmissions - Force 9 Axle (http://www.ashcrofttransmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=336)
dullbird
11th April 2012, 08:36 PM
I have been made aware of another thread talking about this very subject going very badly off topic talking about sals etc...and people getting noses out of joint
I'm going to ask politely that you all please keep this specific thread on topic.
Any tangents and deliberate off topic posts will be deleted without warning.
If you dont like this then please dont post
CJT
11th April 2012, 08:47 PM
could it be the Force 9, which is already available?
Ashcroft Transmissions - Force 9 Axle (http://www.ashcrofttransmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=336)
They have the Force 9 available but it is not currently suitable for ABS, however I have been told it should not be too hard to fit the ABS parts etc.
Drover
12th April 2012, 05:40 AM
I have read a little about this and know that there is at least some interest from Ashcroft Transmissions to build a bolt up replacement for the Rover rear diff.
This new diff centre is not the Force 9
From what I have read the replacement will need a complete new housing for the CW/P gears as the current Rover version has a problem with the bearing spacing on the pinion, allowing it to flex - causing the weakness.
I am with TimNZ on this, Dave you know you want to and I know that you can sell at least one straight away.:D
butundede
12th April 2012, 09:27 AM
I would think there would be a big market for these centres. With Sals diffs becoming rare and all the Pumas being sold!
Slunnie
12th April 2012, 10:07 AM
Something along the lines of the Dana44 as a drop in would be nice. Same 8.5" CW/P as LandRover is, but with a stronger hypoid design and it should just drop in. New casting like they've done with the Force9 but much simpler - be unreal!
justinc
12th April 2012, 02:56 PM
Something along the lines of the Dana44 as a drop in would be nice. Same 8.5" CW/P as LandRover is, but with a stronger hypoid design and it should just drop in. New casting like they've done with the Force9 but much simpler - be unreal!
Comes in 3.54:1 too:)
Stocker D30 were only 2 pin, at least the ones in J**ps are...are the D44 4 Pin Simon?
JC
clubagreenie
12th April 2012, 03:08 PM
For the price, the F9 looks like a go if you consider the cost of lockers, brake upgrades, axles, cv's etc etc... And the ability to fit other rover bits (esp in the brake dept) to keep it "std" or known.
I'd take a pair for the D2.
uninformed
12th April 2012, 03:50 PM
I have been made aware of another thread talking about this very subject going very badly off topic talking about sals etc...and people getting noses out of joint
I'm going to ask politely that you all please keep this specific thread on topic.
Any tangents and deliberate off topic posts will be deleted without warning.
If you dont like this then please dont post
Im sorry, but of the Ashcroft threads I have read all talk was relevant to the topic, whether it be the Ashcroft locker (and people wanting a Sals version) or the P38 type rear diff thread and varrious ideas and opinions being posted to see a bigger picture.
Maybe the confusion is coming from those calling P38 diffs, Rover type or being months behind the 8 ball on already discussed topics.
Ashcroft have a fantastic reputation for customer service. If I was serious about purchasing an upgrade for any of my rover stuff, and I was capable of posting on the Internet, I would probably email, or even yet phone Ashcroft to get up to date correct info.......
Now is the OP confused and thinks the "maybe" P38 diff upgrade is a Rover type upgrade/ Or does he mean the "Force 9" which IS designed around the rover housing?
I havent seen anything posted on a whole new 3rd member for the Rover type housing, I couldnt see it making sense with everything else they already produce???
I have been wrong before though.
cheers,
Serg
butundede
12th April 2012, 04:49 PM
If I had a spare $13000 or $14000 and wanted to build a comp truck I would most definitely slot in the Force9 setup. But I don't......
uninformed
12th April 2012, 04:54 PM
yes but we need clarification....Is it the Rover type diff? these can be built plenty strong enough (Using Ascroft locker and HD R&P, plus various brand axles and a few different brand cvs) for any LR tourer. Or is it actually the P38 type in question???
TimNZ
12th April 2012, 04:59 PM
yes but we need clarification....Is it the Rover type diff? these can be built plenty strong enough (Using Ascroft locker and HD R&P, plus various brand axles and a few different brand cvs) for any LR tourer. Or is it actually the P38 type in question???
I would say looking at the OP's avatar he is talking about the P38 type.
Regards,
uninformed
12th April 2012, 05:08 PM
I have read a little about this and know that there is at least some interest from Ashcroft Transmissions to build a bolt up replacement for the Rover rear diff.
This new diff centre is not the Force 9
From what I have read the replacement will need a complete new housing for the CW/P gears as the current Rover version has a problem with the bearing spacing on the pinion, allowing it to flex - causing the weakness.
I am with TimNZ on this, Dave you know you want to and I know that you can sell at least one straight away.:D
As I said, I could be wrong, but what you are describing is the discussion on the P38 type rear diff as fitted to late model 110 and 130. Not only is it the close bearing spacing on the pinion, but the thin Ring gear.
People have also been referring to the P38 type rear diff as the "Puma" diff, giving more confusion! first of all Puma is a bloody engine code name, and 2nd the P38 type diff is only found in the REAR of 110 and 130, all front and 90 rear diffs are Rover type
uninformed
12th April 2012, 05:11 PM
Something along the lines of the Dana44 as a drop in would be nice. Same 8.5" CW/P as LandRover is, but with a stronger hypoid design and it should just drop in. New casting like they've done with the Force9 but much simpler - be unreal!
Slunnie, Im not sure if you know already, but keith from Rovingtracks has done this already. He was contracted by the UK Mil to do some HD complete axle set ups. From my memory he used specaial made 44 housings for the front. The UK took order of his rears, but ran out of money for his front design. Ill see If I can chase up more info for you.
goingbush
12th April 2012, 05:28 PM
Slunnie, Im not sure if you know already, but keith from Rovingtracks has done this already. He was contracted by the UK Mil to do some HD complete axle set ups. From my memory he used specaial made 44 housings for the front. The UK took order of his rears, but ran out of money for his front design. Ill see If I can chase up more info for you.
Very good idea, esp since you can get 3.54 Dana 44 gear sets.
CORVETTE DANA 44HD 44 3.54 RING AND PINION YUKON GEAR | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CORVETTE-DANA-44HD-44-3-54-RING-AND-PINION-YUKON-GEAR-/330466827132?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf15b9b7c)
Seems an obvious way to go
That Force9 reminds me of a ford 9" but built for a tank!
uninformed
12th April 2012, 05:42 PM
Very good idea, esp since you can get 3.54 Dana 44 gear sets.
CORVETTE DANA 44HD 44 3.54 RING AND PINION YUKON GEAR | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CORVETTE-DANA-44HD-44-3-54-RING-AND-PINION-YUKON-GEAR-/330466827132?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf15b9b7c)
Seems an obvious way to go
That Force9 reminds me of a ford 9" but built for a tank!
The Force 9 was originaly based on the Ford 9 inch diff, but due to problems Ashcroft found with it, they designed their own R&P to suit their needs.
There are many aftermarket Ford nine upgrades Diff wise in the USA. Even a HD hi pinion unit called the Tru-Hi9
dullbird
12th April 2012, 06:01 PM
Im sorry, but of the Ashcroft threads I have read all talk was relevant to the topic, whether it be the Ashcroft locker (and people wanting a Sals version) or the P38 type rear diff thread and varrious ideas and opinions being posted to see a bigger picture.
Maybe the confusion is coming from those calling P38 diffs, Rover type or being months behind the 8 ball on already discussed topics.
Ashcroft have a fantastic reputation for customer service. If I was serious about purchasing an upgrade for any of my rover stuff, and I was capable of posting on the Internet, I would probably email, or even yet phone Ashcroft to get up to date correct info.......
Now is the OP confused and thinks the "maybe" P38 diff upgrade is a Rover type upgrade/ Or does he mean the "Force 9" which IS designed around the rover housing?
I havent seen anything posted on a whole new 3rd member for the Rover type housing, I couldnt see it making sense with everything else they already produce???
I have been wrong before though.
cheers,
Serg
No need to be sorry serg I have put in a simple request
whether you think other threads have gone off topic or not others have felt they have. which is why I placed the request in this thread.
I agree with you though would be good for the original poster to clarify what he means by a super diff...and if he is in fact talking about the force 9 then perhaps I will lock this thread and direct him to threads which already talk about it as there is no need to flog a dead horse.
uninformed
12th April 2012, 06:26 PM
agreed, but half the confusion, derailing is coming from people referring to the P38 type diff as a Rover or Puma diff. So the topic just goes in circles with some answering with correct information based on questions asked about the wrong diff type etc....
Drover
12th April 2012, 06:47 PM
Defender's 2007 to current use a p38 rear diff and a Rover front.
For info direct from the Dave Ashcroft refer to the thread below, most will be explained -
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144708-life-puma-rear-diffs-4.html
PS : see how didn't call a "Puma" a "Puma"
uninformed
12th April 2012, 07:04 PM
Defender's 2007 to current use a p38 rear diff and a Rover front.
For info direct from the Dave Ashcroft refer to the thread below, most will be explained -
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144708-life-puma-rear-diffs-4.html
PS : see how didn't call a "Puma" a "Puma"
I think you will find that is 2003, not 2007. And they are only found, in the defender range, on the 110 and 130. The 90's have Rover type front and rear. I had actually thought the P38 type rear diff appeared a little earlier than 2003 ON A FEW vehicles here in Oz......
justinc
12th April 2012, 07:12 PM
In this instance, OP has a P38 rear diff in his 2003/4 110. It has currently worn flanges and halfshafts (surprise surprise) and we are currently looking at alternatives rather than replace axles etc on a diff that is basically useless.
A Sals is on the cards but hard to obtain, a reworked stronger drop in to his original housing will be fine, OR maybe we should be fitting a D1/ Rover housing and an ARB or Detroit with Maxi axles??
JC
uninformed
12th April 2012, 07:26 PM
JC, not sure how many you have done, but seems like you swap a few. Have you thought about contacting some one like Ruffstuff Specialties for a price on custom housings and chose a diff center you think best. Add LR 110 stub axles, hubs brakes etc. Im sure they could sort out offset and A frame ball joint fixture easy.
I have emailed keith, when I hear from him I will forward the info to you. PM me your email if you like
butundede
12th April 2012, 08:16 PM
As JC has said I have a P38 type diff. Sorry for any confusion.
Cheers Bob.
Yorkshire_Jon
12th April 2012, 09:36 PM
Yep, 2003 is correct for P38 in the rear of 110's.
I have a late 2006 110 with a P38 diff and it's now complete wih Ashcroft locker:)
Sent using Forum Runner
PAT303
12th April 2012, 10:07 PM
With the huge numbers of rover ABS diffs from D1's that are worth nothing to buy and having HD internals straight off the shelf from many suppliers I think that would be the better way to go for 99% of people here. Pat
revor
12th April 2012, 10:48 PM
I have been summoned..
Hi Guys, it's been a while, just haven't had time to get out to the forums much recently, very busy.
Serg suggested I come over and describe some solutions there might be for the brilliant P38 Diff in the back of the later 110's.
Unfortunately there is only one drop in solution and that's the Force 9 in a D1 housing thats a lot of money and really geared for competition use, ratios that are usable might be a pain to get if you plan on keeping 3.54's (Dave could speak to that better than me)
A couple years back I worked with Dynatrac in California to build a "super Salisbury" for MOD in the UK Based on a Dana 60 we supplied it with an ARB, 4.1 gears, giant 35 spline axles on custom stubs and hubs. It's a beast, some of you guys might have my 35 spline conversion on their Sali, it's based on that. The housing is available and could be built as a 24 spline axle using some of the components ffrom the P38 axle, I'd have to check on a current price. My guess is tha it might be cheaper to import a Salisbury from teh UK and build it to current specification.
The Dana 44 could fit as a drop in, we looked at that many years ago, in development we decided to use 12 bolt GM gears, we made one casting and decided the Toy conversion was a better deal.
The Dana 44 came as a drop in for Corvettes and Shelby Cobra's. The ones I've seen are aluminum housings, there might be something new out there These days I just haven't looked.
A guy could also drop a D1 housing in it and put a Hilux diff in it but I don't think I've ever seen a 3.5ish ratio in a Hilux.
That's what I got, not a lot of good news I'm afraid.
Slunnie
12th April 2012, 11:58 PM
Comes in 3.54:1 too:)
Stocker D30 were only 2 pin, at least the ones in J**ps are...are the D44 4 Pin Simon?
JC
Good question JC, I'm not sure! They would be after fitting a locker though.
Slunnie, Im not sure if you know already, but keith from Rovingtracks has done this already. He was contracted by the UK Mil to do some HD complete axle set ups. From my memory he used specaial made 44 housings for the front. The UK took order of his rears, but ran out of money for his front design. Ill see If I can chase up more info for you.
Thanks for this, I had no idea about that
I have been summoned..
Hi Guys, it's been a while, just haven't had time to get out to the forums much recently, very busy.
Serg suggested I come over and describe some solutions there might be for the brilliant P38 Diff in the back of the later 110's.
Unfortunately there is only one drop in solution and that's the Force 9 in a D1 housing thats a lot of money and really geared for competition use, ratios that are usable might be a pain to get if you plan on keeping 3.54's (Dave could speak to that better than me)
A couple years back I worked with Dynatrac in California to build a "super Salisbury" for MOD in the UK Based on a Dana 60 we supplied it with an ARB, 4.1 gears, giant 35 spline axles on custom stubs and hubs. It's a beast, some of you guys might have my 35 spline conversion on their Sali, it's based on that. The housing is available and could be built as a 24 spline axle using some of the components ffrom the P38 axle, I'd have to check on a current price. My guess is tha it might be cheaper to import a Salisbury from teh UK and build it to current specification.
The Dana 44 could fit as a drop in, we looked at that many years ago, in development we decided to use 12 bolt GM gears, we made one casting and decided the Toy conversion was a better deal.
The Dana 44 came as a drop in for Corvettes and Shelby Cobra's. The ones I've seen are aluminum housings, there might be something new out there These days I just haven't looked.
A guy could also drop a D1 housing in it and put a Hilux diff in it but I don't think I've ever seen a 3.5ish ratio in a Hilux.
That's what I got, not a lot of good news I'm afraid.
Thanks Keith, that awesome - some really interesting info!
justinc
13th April 2012, 07:23 AM
Thanks Keith! Hope all is well over there?
I suspect that we would probably travel the Sals OR a beefed up D1 housing route and Locker/axles etc as the Force 9 whereas it is an awesome bit of kit is a bit outside the budget of a strong reliable tourer.
This particular application isn't about heavy loading either, so conceivably a D1 rear housing should suffice, but have to check permissable axle weights I guess first to remain 'legal'.
We may just have to settle for a Sals it is just getting hard to find a good used one, ABS compatible.
JC
Slunnie
13th April 2012, 07:45 AM
... and here is me thinking that I need to check the ARB locker applications guide to see what has a Dana44 and then to work out what has a drop in type diff..... hmmm, where is my old Frontera V6!
uninformed
13th April 2012, 06:33 PM
so what would be ideal, is to use the P38 type housing and supply a drop in 3rd. Keeping 3.54 gearing and 24 spline axles, with the option of upgrading. Of coarse a locker option to. So what 3rds will fit and are common?
rick130
13th April 2012, 08:39 PM
so what would be ideal, is to use the P38 type housing and supply a drop in 3rd. Keeping 3.54 gearing and 24 spline axles, with the option of upgrading. Of coarse a locker option to. So what 3rds will fit and are common?
In that case, if a Rover pattern 3rd drops into the P38 housing, the Jack Mc hypoid/Lolux centre as Bill suggested in the other thread.
IIRC he mentioned Jeff had 3.54 CWP's made and they were pretty nice.
zapata1
13th April 2012, 09:23 PM
Don't know about that but there ashcroft lockers are selling so well they sold out.:)
TimNZ
13th April 2012, 09:31 PM
In that case, if a Rover pattern 3rd drops into the P38 housing, the Jack Mc hypoid/Lolux centre as Bill suggested in the other thread.
IIRC he mentioned Jeff had 3.54 CWP's made and they were pretty nice.
I don't think they do Rick, otherwise Ashcroft could just supply the Rover Diff with their upgraded ring and pinion.
Slunnie
13th April 2012, 10:44 PM
I don't think they do Rick, otherwise Ashcroft could just supply the Rover Diff with their upgraded ring and pinion.
Rover diff will drop in to a P38 housing, but a P38 diff wont drop into a Rover housing, so based on that the Toy should be a comparable conversion to a P38 housing as it is to a Rover housing - although I'm not sure how the P38 housing CW cut out affects things.
uninformed
14th April 2012, 10:35 AM
I don't think they do Rick, otherwise Ashcroft could just supply the Rover Diff with their upgraded ring and pinion.
I think Rick is talking about the physical size. The Rover type R+P is different design to the P38type, so you cant just switch R+P.
When I say drop in, I mean fit. The only diff center to bolt straight in is going to be the original P38 type. This is about what removable 3rd centers will physicaly fit in the housing.
The Toyota 8 or so inch hypoid has been mentioned. Now I know most will say they are a huge improvement over the Rover, but I have read a bit over the last few years and the mubblings arnt quite agreeing with that anymore. For my way of thinking, if you are going to the trouble of doing a custom job in the P38 type housing, make it as good as can be within reason.
So if a larger Toyota or Nissan center fits, then thats a start. What ever I would choose would have to be common and have a 3.54 or very close ratio....
Im guessing a diffferent 3rd would require either the studs being removed and weled up, or a spacer ring inbetween. The rear cover may have to be cut off and replaced if the ring gear is going to fowel....not such a bad thing as the cover is probably only 3mm thick....
rick130
14th April 2012, 12:12 PM
I think Rick is talking about the physical size. The Rover type R+P is different design to the P38type, so you cant just switch R+P.
When I say drop in, I mean fit. The only diff center to bolt straight in is going to be the original P38 type. This is about what removable 3rd centers will physicaly fit in the housing.
The Toyota 8 or so inch hypoid has been mentioned. Now I know most will say they are a huge improvement over the Rover, but I have read a bit over the last few years and the mubblings arnt quite agreeing with that anymore. For my way of thinking, if you are going to the trouble of doing a custom job in the P38 type housing, make it as good as can be within reason.
So if a larger Toyota or Nissan center fits, then thats a start. What ever I would choose would have to be common and have a 3.54 or very close ratio....
Im guessing a diffferent 3rd would require either the studs being removed and weled up, or a spacer ring inbetween. The rear cover may have to be cut off and replaced if the ring gear is going to fowel....not such a bad thing as the cover is probably only 3mm thick....
Serg, the problems have been with the reverse cut/high pinion TLC fronts, apparently the standard low pinion in the rear (or front) is plenty strong enough and much stronger than the Rover diff.
Bill for one reckoned they are a good thing and Jack Mc make a casting for it to be a bolt into a Rover housing.
With a 3.54:1 CWP the pinion head is 21mm larger than a Rover pinion. (and I'm trying to find the thread where this was discussed :()
[edit]
Found it !
Actually it was Bill and Matt (Rovercare) who both said they are a good thing http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144708-life-puma-rear-diffs-3.html
rovercare
14th April 2012, 12:44 PM
Serg, the problems have been with the reverse cut/high pinion TLC fronts, apparently the standard low pinion in the rear (or front) is plenty strong enough and much stronger than the Rover diff.
Bill for one reckoned they are a good thing and Jack Mc make a casting for it to be a bolt into a Rover housing.
With a 3.54:1 CWP the pinion head is 21mm larger than a Rover pinion. (and I'm trying to find the thread where this was discussed :()
[edit]
Found it !
Actually it was Bill and Matt (Rovercare) who both said they are a good thing http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/144708-life-puma-rear-diffs-3.html
Yes, in comparison to the rover stuff
This has got me thinking, when I build the p38 I'm thinking of diff conversions and what to do, I have a jacmac hypoid 3.54 centre hidden away, oh well it's a while away
PAT303
14th April 2012, 02:50 PM
Rover diff will drop in to a P38 housing, but a P38 diff wont drop into a Rover housing, so based on that the Toy should be a comparable conversion to a P38 housing as it is to a Rover housing - although I'm not sure how the P38 housing CW cut out affects things.
I ask Dave that Slunnie as thats what I was going to do but he said it can't be done for some reason. Pat
PAT303
14th April 2012, 02:55 PM
I think Rick is talking about the physical size. The Rover type R+P is different design to the P38type, so you cant just switch R+P.
When I say drop in, I mean fit. The only diff center to bolt straight in is going to be the original P38 type. This is about what removable 3rd centers will physicaly fit in the housing.
The Toyota 8 or so inch hypoid has been mentioned. Now I know most will say they are a huge improvement over the Rover, but I have read a bit over the last few years and the mubblings arnt quite agreeing with that anymore. For my way of thinking, if you are going to the trouble of doing a custom job in the P38 type housing, make it as good as can be within reason.
So if a larger Toyota or Nissan center fits, then thats a start. What ever I would choose would have to be common and have a 3.54 or very close ratio....
Im guessing a diffferent 3rd would require either the studs being removed and weled up, or a spacer ring inbetween. The rear cover may have to be cut off and replaced if the ring gear is going to fowel....not such a bad thing as the cover is probably only 3mm thick....
Serg,IMHO the Toyota diff isn't a big enough improvement over the rover to justify the time or cost as all Tojo owners who get serious upgrade them so they aren't an upgrade,I've seen plenty of broken ones too but I don't bother saying anything about Toyota's anymore,I'm to biased apparently. Pat
uninformed
14th April 2012, 03:28 PM
Pat, most of the stuff I have read is from the USA, they are built Toy diffs and when comparing a built Toy in a rover housing to a built rover, they are falling a little short of the so called big improvement. Like you said, if your going to upgrade, why do 10% when you could possibly do more.
I have no horse in this race other than wanting to see bad things move in a better direction. I have a Sals with MD locker so it does me fine. I would prefer a fabbed housing with a removable 3rd.
If I had the time and a few $$$ I would source a p38 housing and some 3rds (say Nissan and Toy 60) and see whats what....but alas im busy and broke.
btw the Ruffstuff sixty9 housing for D60 has better ground clearance than a D60/Sals
PAT303
14th April 2012, 05:49 PM
I just want a stronger diff for towing/touring,I've got no need for a force 9 style diff and neither do 99% of people here. Pat
uninformed
14th April 2012, 06:03 PM
Pat, have you spoken to Ashcroft, is their locker/carrier better at supporting the ring gear compared to the stock carrier?
PAT303
14th April 2012, 08:38 PM
Mate I'd be happy with a 3.5 HD CW&P. Pat
justinc
15th April 2012, 07:18 AM
Mate I'd be happy with a 3.5 HD CW&P. Pat
Exactly, the real only weak point in these IS the CW and P, the 4 pin carrier is more than adequate, and obvious axles are OK at 24 spline but easily upgradable.
JC
uninformed
15th April 2012, 09:10 AM
regarding the carrier, I wasnt so much thinking the 2 pin four pin argument, but wondering about carrier flex and how well the carrier supports the ring gear.
PAT303
15th April 2012, 10:38 AM
Even with a locker the weak points still there,as JC posted the carriers more than strong enough,look on ashcrofts site and compare the thickness of their CW to the original.Why they didn't just do it properly is beyond me. Pat
olbod
15th April 2012, 11:53 AM
Trying to get my head around this Puma weak diff discussion.
What actually breaks and under what circumstances ?
Is it a front or rear diff issue or both ?
Is it an issue that should concern all Puma owners or is it just a pot luck kind of thing ?
If I buy a Puma should I not worry about it or live in fear of being stuck in the CSR with a stuffed Diff ?
I own a 20 year old D1 which came with 10 spline axles, I new what to do about that but this Puma thingy, I would be a new chum!!!
Ta.
Robert.
PAT303
15th April 2012, 01:36 PM
Olbod,the P38 diff is set up with backlash from the factory for some reason that no one can explain so the CW&P teeth don't mesh correctly.Think of your fingers meshed together,one hand is the CW,the other hand is the pinion,the more they slide together the stronger the contact. Pat
TimNZ
15th April 2012, 02:18 PM
Hi olbod, the issue is with the P38 style diff fitted to the rear of the 110's and 130's. If I remember correctly from what Dave Ashcroft explained in another thread the biggest problem is the short distance between the pinion bearings. This allows the pinion gear to move out of alignment with the crownwheel under load. (No doubt if this isn't correct or complete someone will add to this).
As for failing, I personally haven't heard of diffs getting to a point where the car is undriveable. The early symptoms of a problem appears to be a leaking pinion seal and/or a whine/dry running sound.
In saying that I have done 60,000kms without an issue with either diff in my 110.
Cheers,
olbod
15th April 2012, 04:05 PM
Thanks.
So, If a diff lock was fitted by a real Landrover mechanic, would that be sufficient to fix the problem and would or could the backlash be reset at the same time ?
LandRover spares here in Mackay do a good job of fitting ARB air lockers
into Landies. I would trust them before the local ARB installers !!!
I would prefer an Ashcroft locker, but ?
Ta.
Robert.
TimNZ
15th April 2012, 04:48 PM
Changing the diff center won't help I'm afraid as the problem lies with the diff casing design. :(
I'm personally hoping Ashcroft make a drop in replacement diff.
Cheers,
uninformed
15th April 2012, 06:30 PM
P38 type dif,f not Puma.......palm to face.
IMO the design is a problem, but the factory set up is a major contributor. As I have stated in other threads, the only reason I can see multipule warranty claims from indivdual owners, is the LR dealer mechanics are grabbing complete 3rds off the shelf, already set up by LR UK and just bolting them in. Hence the problem can reoccur.
It is not just the close pinion bearings, but the thin crown wheel that allows deflection. I would like to see pictures of the OEM carrier and a good Ashcroft carrier before I said that no difference would be made to deflection. If the crown wheel is better supported that must help.....maybe it doesnt.
I believe there is enough meat in the 3rd member casting to allow for bigger bearings on both carrier and pinon....
TimNZ
15th April 2012, 07:48 PM
I believe there is enough meat in the 3rd member casting to allow for bigger bearings on both carrier and pinon....
I doubt bigger pinion bearings would help, it's the distance between them thats the problem. This is why a few of us would be happy if Ashcrofts developed a new complete center with a longer "nose" that would accept an off the shelf sals length prop, (with a locker option of course :) ).
Cheers,
Drover
13th April 2013, 01:27 PM
Check out "life of puma rear diff's" thread.
Pictures of the Ashcroft casting and complete drop in diff centre.
And lots of info.
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