Update to EAS Valve Block O-rings renewal guide

[PaulP38a]

As just posted to rr.net and the Range Rover P38 page on FB...

Another update to the EAS Valve Block Renew guide at http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/ (http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/eas-valve-block-renew/) to include a new diagram showing the connections between the EAS Driver and solenoid covers... should be useful if you forget to mark the covers before removing them.

There is also a new version of the offline version of the page (65MB download).

Cheers, Paul.

[DT-P38]

On the weekend, I have just been through my first full valve block rebuild with a good P38 buddy here in Melbourne (Martin - RovinRangie). Both of us were pleased that our expectations of a hard job were shattered! It worked out to be a walk in the park!

Pauls Hard Range kit and instructions are fantastic and make an expensive (if buying new EAS) or long and tricky (DIY'ing) job cheap as chips and really easy to complete. Thank you very much Paul, great stuff!

FYI, I have done some bits and pieces recently while chasing down issues with my poor performing EAS. But it seemed like you fix it for a week or two and then the next bit goes out. First I reco'd a couple of suspect solenoids... good for 2 weeks and going silly again... then the rest of the solenoids... good for 3 weeks then going silly (but differently) again... so now having done the lot I am pretty confident all will be good from here on. You can see the crap parts as you replace them and its evident some parts work harder than the rest in this gizmo.

So anyway, anyone out there having EAS troubles... don't muck around, just take half a day in the shed or where ever and follow Paul's guide. You won’t regret it. I would also add that it’s probably a good idea to re-co your air compressor at the same time.

I'm pretty sure Hard Range sell a kit that has both lots of bit’s in it through e-bay. Compare the cost of the kit to a new (or even second hand) valve block and compressor. It's like 10% or something silly like that. Like Nike say... Just Do it!

[51jay]

I tried to overhaul myEAS block a while ago using Pauls repair kit. Everything was fine except I found the check valves were obviously quite worn and the refurbished unit wouldn't hold pressure. I have been unable to aquire new check valves and ended up getting a new unit from the UK.
Has anyone else come up against this problem
Incidently I still haven't been able to get my faultmate working,so haven't been able to clear faults. As a result I have been running the car with the EAS completely cut out and just pump the 4 corners up to 800mm from ground to centre wheel arch, need resetting about every 4 or 5 days

[adm333]

Jay

I have the freeware EAS software and cable and can probably help you clear the faults.

Not sure about the Faultmate but could take a look at it.

Let me know

Dave

[PaulP38a]

Hi Jay - didn't you buy that MSV-2 from me last year? and you also got a licence for your RRC as I recall?

Give me a call on the weekend if you want, and we can talk through the FaultMate issue. I should be able to help out.

If you don't have my number at hand or find it on one of the Tax Invoices I sent, PM me yours and I can call you.

...or if Dave gets there first, great. Feel free to call me anyway.

Cheers, Paul.

[51jay]

Hi Dave, I thought you sold your P38A. I'm not in Bris anymore, we sold out Enogera and now live in our retirement house in the beautiful Scenic RimSEQ.
Thanks for the offer though. If you ever feel like a nice drive in the country send me a PM.
Hi Paul, Yes thats me, I still have both cars. I get the faultmate out every now and then and have a fiddle but there is usually some problem I can't get past so it gets put away again.
Whats a good time to call you on the weekend I'LL get everything set up and ready to go first.
cheers Jay

[PaulP38a]

Early Arvo will be best for me Jay.
Cheers, Paul.

[Robsrod 58]

Hi all,
May I make a suggestion with the valve block overhaul procedure.

Rather than using a small blade screw driver to remove the O rings, i think a better tool would be a piece of brass or brazing rod about 6 to 8" in length and about 2mm in dia, flattened at the end, slightly rounded and polished. The reason why is that this is softer than the other metal parts of the block, so you would be less likely to damage or score them when removing the rings.

I learn't this after many, many years working on pneumatics in the aircraft industry.

Rob

[Hoges]

Good point: that why I obtained a plastic crochet needle ($1) with the hooked end, from Spotlight. Ideal for the job ;)

[PaulP38a]

Funny you should mention that Hoges. I was in Spotlight today (on a mission for the missus) looking at needles, and thought I should buy a set for the o-rings.

Thanks for the tips guys. I have updated the guide and credited you.

Cheers, Paul.

[redandy3575]

Hi all, looks like it's now my turn to do the overhaul. I found air leaking out of the valve block exhaust outlet which completely drains the air out of the system overnight.

I've read up your guide there Paul, and i'm confident to have a crack at it. Wish me luck!!!

[DT-P38]

If you want to do the VB rebuild while still having use of your car you can borrow the untouched spare I have and reco it.

You can then just swap it over when it suits you and then give me yours when your finished. When trouble shooting, it helped me a couple of times to have the second one to look at and get my bearings.

Good luck either way, let me know if you want a hand... alternatively, you have my number if you have any prob's when doing it.

Dave

P.S. I also have some Hard Range VB Rebuild kit's on hand if you need one before Paul or Andy can get it down here.

[mechanic2you]

Hey Guys

A more simple tool would be an old wiper blade steel stiffener (the outer support of the blade) as the end has a cutout on the side of the stiffener

Hope this helps

[p38arover]

Good point: that why I obtained a plastic crochet needle ($1) with the hooked end, from Spotlight. Ideal for the job ;)

That's been the usual recommended tool. Mine is metal. Hang the expense! :D

[redandy3575]

That pellets that goes inside the dryer, where do you buy this from???

[Hoges]

You can 'regenerate' the dryer material quite simply

If you are able comandeer the kitchen oven for few hours :eek:... empty the dryer material onto a flat tray and spread it out evenly. Set the oven to 110 deg C, bring it to temp and then place the tray of desiccant in the oven for 3 hrs. Let the oven cool and put the dryer material into a coarse sieve and get rid of the powder (causes problems in the valve block). Put the (now) cool desiccant material back into the dryer...!
A little kitchen chemistry can be fun and rewarding!;)
cheers

[p38arover]

I must get around to drying mine. See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1265842-post416.html

[redandy3575]

Ok, so far so good the valve block has been completely reco'd. Just in the process of doing my compressor and got hung up at the piston. How do you loosen the piston crown to get the seal off? the centre piece i cannot see how it is possible to loosen without a special tool, any suggestions??

[redandy3575]

You can 'regenerate' the dryer material quite simply

If you are able comandeer the kitchen oven for few hours :eek:... empty the dryer material onto a flat tray and spread it out evenly. Set the oven to 110 deg C, bring it to temp and then place the tray of desiccant in the oven for 3 hrs. Let the oven cool and put the dryer material into a coarse sieve and get rid of the powder (causes problems in the valve block). Put the (now) cool desiccant material back into the dryer...!
A little kitchen chemistry can be fun and rewarding!;)
cheers

Will try that:)

[PaulP38a]

Ok, so far so good the valve block has been completely reco'd. Just in the process of doing my compressor and got hung up at the piston. How do you loosen the piston crown to get the seal off? the centre piece i cannot see how it is possible to loosen without a special tool, any suggestions??

A long 4mm and 5mm Allen key is all that is needed to remove the piston.

Did I not send you a link to the guide? Oops, here it is http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-Cseal-Install.pdf

Cheers, Paul.

[redandy3575]

A long 4mm and 5mm Allen key is all that is needed to remove the piston.

Did I not send you a link to the guide? Oops, here it is http://hardrange.com/downloads/manual/HRA-Cseal-Install.pdf

Cheers, Paul.

You have now, thanks. It makes sense now, but what if you don't have a pipe cutter? Will multi grips do??

[PaulP38a]

You have now, thanks. It makes sense now, but what if you don't have a pipe cutter? Will multi grips do??

Stanley knife to trim the old seal off and expose the lip, then a flat-head screwdriver to prise off the ring.