Steering column disconnect point for body lift?

[Graeme]

Is there a usual point of disconnection of the steering column when the body is lifted off? My D4's steering is now rattling badly over rough ground immediately after a body lift and there is looseness somewhere in above the rack. I suspect the bolt/s haven't been tightened but knowing just where could be useful before I start pulling things off tomorrow morning.
TIA

[justinc]

Certainly Graeme, there are 2 points, the steering column can be undone from either BUT IIRC LR usually specify the top one, closer to he firewall, you will need a Torx socket, and it is not easy to reach you will need a few extension bars from underneath.

JC

[Graeme]

Thanks JC. With my wife wriggling the steering wheel, grabbing the uni just above the rack indicated the looseness was further up. Looking at the workshop manual there appears to be a couple of possible points, hence the question. I'll make sure I get to inspect or feel the top point. The rattling sounds close to the steering wheel which aligns with your info.

[justinc]

Thanks JC. With my wife wriggling the steering wheel, grabbing the uni just above the rack indicated the looseness was further up. Looking at the workshop manual there appears to be a couple of possible points, hence the question. I'll make sure I get to inspect or feel the top point. The rattling sounds close to the steering wheel which aligns with your info.

Graeme I would check it very quickly and do NOT drive the vehicle, the issue isn't that it may rotate in the sleeve, it is keyed in, but the shaft is telescopic and IF the bolt drops out the shaft literally falls out of the top 'clamp'. The bolt IS loctited BUT don't risk it.

JC

[CaverD3]

Get the dealer to recover it fix and return it to you?

[Graeme]

It will be investigated thismorning. I hadn't considered that one shaft might rotate in another because I expected some sort of spline but that it could come apart or at least wear the components badly. It was only whilst driving around some rough paddocks late yesterday that the bad rattle occurred. Prior to that it was only a bit of a rattle crossing ruts and pot-holes, after which I spoke to the service person with whom I had been dealing. No loose wheel nuts or suspension bolts could be seen at the earlier inspection (the lower wishbone bushes had been replaced too) but after the paddock rattles it became a steering column issue. Hopefully its only a loose bolt rather than a missing bolt.

Recovery is a last resort option as I desperately need to use the vehicle to tow my box trailer. The D4 + trailer is my farm ute and I've been without it for 3 weeks and crop sowing must get underway.

[Graeme]

There is no movement in the top connection. The bolt is in place and in the straight ahead position the bottom of what appears to be a new bolt is visible. However the whole shaft floats about as it goes through the grommet in the firewall. The shear joint under the dash is intact and there's only a little movement as the shaft exits the steering column mount. It seems that the knocking is from grossly excessive movement in the sliding joint as though its been damaged during refitting of the body. The uni joint is OK, as is the coupling directly above it. I haven't been able to access the sliding joint.

I'm waiting for a call from the dealer's service dept but I don't expect the particular person on deck to have the knowledge to help.

[justinc]

There is no movement in the top connection. The bolt is in place and in the straight ahead position the bottom of what appears to be a new bolt is visible. However the whole shaft floats about as it goes through the grommet in the firewall. The shear joint under the dash is intact and there's only a little movement as the shaft exits the steering column mount. It seems that the knocking is from grossly excessive movement in the sliding joint as though its been damaged during refitting of the body. The uni joint is OK, as is the coupling directly above it. I haven't been able to access the sliding joint.

I'm waiting for a call from the dealer's service dept but I don't expect the particular person on deck to have the knowledge to help.

A relief that the bolt was in and tight:), the sliding joint movement is almost undetectable IIRC when all bolted up, so yes I'd be checking another or get them to rectify ASAP.
Maybe they forgot to unbolt it when starting to lift the body:eek:?
It is in the step by step instructions quite clearly though...

JC

[CaverD3]

Recovery is a last resort option as I desperately need to use the vehicle to tow my box trailer. The D4 + trailer is my farm ute and I've been without it for 3 weeks and crop sowing must get underway.

Not good timing.:(

Worst case if it is them then they should provide a loaner?
Alto always give me a loaner.

[Graeme]

I wasn't expecting to find the shaft floating about in the grommet. However if the female section of the collapsible shaft has been stretched/opened-up then that would probably explain the movement. How much play does it need before it allows rotation?

The wheels were balanced along with the wheel alignment but they shake considerably, making it difficult to steer smoothly around bends at speed. I was going to get then rebalanced locally but perhaps the steering vagueness is partly due to the looseness in the steering column. Overall, I think I will have to take the vehicle back.

Edit: Service dept wont advise over the phone. As there's only 5-10mm steering wheel rotational movement its unlikely there's any danger of a male shaft turning inside the female section, but it can be monitored regularly until its fixed.

Thanks JC.

[Graeme]

Their loaners don't have tow-bars. Its also a full day's round trip to the dealers.

[justinc]

I wasn't expecting to find the shaft floating about in the grommet. However if the female section of the collapsible shaft has been stretched/opened-up then that would probably explain the movement. How much play does it need before it allows rotation?

The wheels were balanced along with the wheel alignment but they shake considerably, making it difficult to steer smoothly around bends at speed. I was going to get then rebalanced locally but perhaps the steering vagueness is partly due to the looseness in the steering column. Overall, I think I will have to take the vehicle back.

Edit: Service dept wont advise over the phone. As there's only 5-10mm steering wheel rotational movement its unlikely there's any danger of a male shaft turning inside the female section, but it can be monitored regularly until its fixed.

Thanks JC.

Graeme, the shaft can't rotate in the sleeve it is quite a snug fit, and is keyed to only fit in one position. Hopefully they can get it sorted ASAP.

JC

[Graeme]

the shaft can't rotate in the sleeve it is quite a snug fitUsed to be a snug fit... I expect a new collapsible shaft assembly is required - rather like my pto shafts that are reasonably good fit when new but get sloppy with use. I hope in due course I can get them to have the part on hand and do the swap whilst I wait. I suspect its only a half-hour job as long as the shaft can be readily withdrawn from the rack end and probably with the uni joint still attached.

[Graeme]

Today I finally got to check the tightness of the bolt above the collapsible section after having read about someone else's front end rattles being due to a loose steering column bolt and found the bolt not fully tight. The rattle is no more. Its a pity I didn't investigate further earlier as the constant column rattle made the car feel like an old bomb.

However whilst searching for the source I discovered that either the right inner tie-rod end or the rack's inner bush is very loose, so probably a new rack will be needed. I can't really hear any noise from inside the cabin yet the looseness is more than enough to cause improper tyre wear. I can't understand why the looseness wasn't discovered at least during the wheel alignment that was done after the lower wishbone bushes were replaced. I wonder how many other of these vehicles have an undetected worn rack or joint.

[justinc]

Good news about the bolt being the only issue, but should've been tight:mad::mad:

The rack; did you rock the steering with the engine off? It'll sound pretty horrific but isn't too bad, however a rack knock with the pump running....or vertical play in the inner rack end, well:(

These things seem to be a little light duty in a few areas, I have heard of many with rack replacements, I have one with a leaking rack, and there are numerous other issues such as control arm bushes etc that fail even with moderate offroad use. I have 1 D3 where all the wheel bearings, several control arm bushes and 1 CV have been replaced already:(

JC

[Graeme]

The bolt went a good half a turn, not loose by any means but wasn't clamping the top shaft. I re-read one of your earlier posts and realised I should have tried tightening the bolt at that time - hindsight is great sometimes!

The steering wheel was slowly rocked after having tightened the column bolt and without the engine running. There is a distinct clunk only at the driver's end of the rack. Pulling the tie rod down hard or pushing it up hard stops most of the clunk but doesn't particularly reduce the notchy movement felt, especially when turned to the left. There is no looseness at the tie rod end ball joint and there is no equivalent noise or movement at the passenger end of the rack.

The vehicle is having a sensor problem that triggers restricted performance officially diagnosed tomorrow (LR wont rely on my Faultmate) so I'll see if there's time to diagnose the steering rack noise too.

[Graeme]

The rack; did you rock the steering with the engine off? It'll sound pretty horrific but isn't too bad, however a rack knock with the pump running....or vertical play in the inner rack end, well:(
The service people have the same opinion as you and confirmed there is nothing wrong. That suits me just fine!

The D4's certainly pleasant to drive again now that the constant rattle has gone - just need to get the power back. 2 wks ex UK for the sensor.