where to start{new toy is here}

[mfc]

seems everywhere you look theres something to do...{as expected}
so ill pop up a few pics and start asking questions...
1/ on a 1955 86" are the D tail lights {as fitted} or the pork pie{i beleave the term is } correct ?
2/ what are youre thoughts on the heater...not shure if its even functional yet
3/ wagon top looks a little off to me but it dosent seem to be cut down ,but
then again i havent looked at many wagon tops
seems to be little rust and what there is has been cut out . fire wall needs a
little work on the drivers side{ on the fold above the vent and below window}

engine smoking more than i do posibly running on 3 cilinders
new wiring loom but not wired corectly

[mfc]

few more pics
wound it over by crank and theres pressure on each cilinder so wouldent that indicate the valves are working {ie not stuck open} pulling the plug of cylinder 3{from front} produces less change than the oither 3 plus the generator pully wobbles like the back wheel on my first bike ,groans and grinds a little to...
guess ill compression test it tomorow{ps there is spark on cyl 3 }

[klonk]

Nice truck, very tidy.

I have a genuine 86'' - 109'' operators manual, it shows pork pie tail lights in all photos of short and long vehicles.

The wagon top looks fine , the straight sides make a differance if youre used to looking at the S2 onwards wagons that are tapered inwards at the top.

If your compression test comes up reasonable try changing the engine oil some engines seem to like certain brands of oil better than others. maybe faulty sparkplug ?

Just a couple of other things, that heater is a shocker and so is the windscreen wiper motor, Im sure both would look better if fitted to Klonk ;).

Cheers Steve

[mfc]

comp readings dry from front of car 110 130 130 130
wet 120 130 140 130
unshure if the ht leads are in the right order either could someone pop up the order as i cant find it in the stuff i have

[mfc]

comp readings dry from front of car 110 130 130 130
wet 120 130 140 130
unshure if the ht leads are in the right order either could someone pop up the order as i cant find it in the stuff i have..
i wonder if i should pop a little squirt of distalate down the plug holes and leave it overnight......or ?????
plugs set at .032" points gap at.040 ....

[101RRS]

I will give you $10 each for those pork pies :).

Nice looking series 1.

Garry

[klonk]

Firing order 1 3 4 2, spark plugs 030 thou, points 015 thou, tappets IN 010 ex 012. Compression should be 125 PSI with a hot engine.

Try a valve set then recheck compression. Diesel down the bores wont acheive much, it will run past the rings into the sump if the rings are stuck, Change the oil and give it a run, make it pull and work hard for a few outings and see what happens.
I run Caltex delo 400 in my old 4.2 diesel patrol when i first got it the caltex dealer warned me that it would burn oil and smoke a bit and then slowly stop as it gave things a clean out, it did and doesnt burn oil anymore.

Cheers Steve

[101RRS]

I will give you $10 each for those pork pies :).

Garry

Ok - your going to make me broke here - $20 each:D

I think the earlier 86s had D lights but it was the 88 that initially had pork pies and later maybe the beacons.

[mfc]

" Change the oil and give it a run, make it pull and work hard for a few outings and see what happens."


that was the plan........
got the oil and fresh fuel{it runs smoother with clean plugs and points } BUT.............

can you get and change the front bearing in a dynamo? {pn 242672 or lu227698} the whole pulley is shaking and screaching ,illl try and repack it if i can get it apart ...

the cars going but i cant seem to get it to go far lol
the long drive and fresh oil were my intent ,but it has to be on the qt .With the lights now working it will be a night run when Mr plod's asleep

it hasnt been driven more than a km or two since 2009 so it realy needs a run

[mfc]

should i either punch or drill these out ,or take it into town and try and find an old school auto leccy ? was thinking that the rivets could be replaced with small bolts whatcha all think?
{you can see where its been grinding away}

[chazza]

Before you change the oil add some engine flush such as Nulon, or Cost Effective Maintenance Cost Effective Maintenance - Home (http://www.costeffective.com.au/) to help free the rings if they are stuck.

I have used both products and have been very impressed with them :D

The Pommy S1 Club has new distributor cap and rotor arm. UK Land Rover parts dealers such as LR Series can do the acorn nuts and plug caps; new HT cable with braid covering, is available from a variety of places such as Autosparks.

Nice car by the way!

Cheers Charlie

[mfc]

cheers
ive got an oil flush but have heard differing opinions the other to yours is that the gunk it frees up can block oil passages etc ..
thanks for the tips on ignition bits im shure ill need them ....main issues the dynamo bearing atm

[mfc]

some drill out some bolt in ,far as i can find out the series 1's c39 are riverts {else mines been riveted in} and the c 4.... are bolts or circlips
bearing remains "hoffmann 115 england "

[chazza]

cheers
ive got an oil flush but have heard differing opinions the other to yours is that the gunk it frees up can block oil passages etc ..


Anything that could block an oil passage would need to be able to get through the strainer, and it would probably reside in the bottom of the sump at the moment.

If it concerns you, then take the sump off and scrape the accumulation of years out; clean the strainer and fill the sump with Savings brand, el-cheapo oil and engine flush, which will remove only carbon and oil tarnish and after a suitable interval drain and refill with a good oil such as Penrite Classic.

I don't think cleaners will break off pieces, which would block an oil passage, because being a detergent they keep the dirty bits in suspension,

Cheers Charlie

[mfc]

moot point atm without dynamo bearing ..
I was hoping to give the thing a decent run before heading west for 4 months....
guess ill hit the bearing shops tomorow

[wrinklearthur]

moot point atm without dynamo bearing ..
I was hoping to give the thing a decent run before heading west for 4 months.... guess ill hit the bearing shops tomorow
You wouldn't live very far from a good supply of those generators, slip over to the hobby farm next door and have look at their grey Fergy (12 volt model).

My series one motor used to smoke a bit, but it wasn't the rings, the oil used to find it's way down the inlet valve guides and after holding back going down hill, you gave the motor a bit a accelerator at the bottom and she would lay a smoke cloud!
Be careful flushing a really old motor out, as lumps of gunge can come loose, do as chazza suggests and clean the sump out, but first try to find a new cork sump gasket.

As the motor uses oil, the spark plugs do suffer, replace them with some Champion N21's they are a hot plug and they tolerate oil in a cold motor and afterwards, if the motor runs on after stopping , the heat range can then be reduced back to a N12.
Another trick is to create a air gap with the spark plug lead this gives a higher voltage but short timed spark, the old timers jammed a match into the spark plug cover and pulled the lead back away from the top of the spark plug until the motor ran smoother .

Have a look at the holes in the rear tub where the 'D' tail light's are fastened, I believe they had a different pattern to the pork pie lights, the old girl may have had an earlier rear tub fitted. Tell us where the horn is situated now and what is the chassis number, the one stamped in the chassis not on the firewall plate, but if they coincide that's perfect.

That hard top was a option for that model, so where the door tops and passenger side wiper motor! I rather the soft top but finding a complete set of bows and door rails is hard.
.

[mfc]

You wouldn't live very far from a good supply of those generators, slip over to the hobby farm next door and have look at their grey Fergy (12 volt model).

My series one motor used to smoke a bit, but it wasn't the rings, the oil used to find it's way down the inlet valve guides and after holding back going down hill, you gave the motor a bit a accelerato<?xml version="1.0" encoding="windows-1252"?>
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<div><textarea name="message" id="vB_Editor_QE_1_textarea" rows="10" cols="60" style="width:500px; height:200px" tabindex="1" dir="ltr">[quote=wrinklearthur;1669264]You wouldn't live very far from a good supply of those generators, slip over to the hobby farm next door and have look at their grey Fergy (12 volt model).

My series one motor used to smoke a bit, but it wasn't the rings, the oil used to find it's way down the inlet valve guides and after holding back going down hill, you gave the motor a bit a accelerator at the bottom and she would lay a smoke cloud!
Be careful flushing a really old motor out, as lumps of gunge can come loose, do as chazza suggests and clean the sump out, but first try to find a new cork sump gasket.

As the motor uses oil, the spark plugs do suffer, replace them with some Champion N21's they are a hot plug and they tolerate oil in a cold motor and afterwards, if the motor runs on after stopping , the heat range can then be reduced back to a N12.
Another trick is to create a air gap with the spark plug lead this gives a higher voltage but short timed spark, the old timers jammed a match into the spark plug cover and pulled the lead back away from the top of the spark plug until the motor ran smoother .

Have a look at the holes in the rear tub where the 'D' tail light's are fastened, I believe they had a different pattern to the pork pie lights, the old girl may have had an earlier rear tub fitted. Tell us where the horn is situated now and what is the chassis number, the one stamped in the chassis not on the firewall plate, but if they coincide that's perfect.

That hard top was a option for that model, so where the door tops and passenger side wiper motor! I rather the soft top but finding a complete set of bows and door rails is hard.
.

yea id prefer soft top to, but i guess the hard top has its benifits and i can take it off in summer..... re the chassis no is it stamped into the chassis above the rear left side spring hanger? if so i cant find one any thoughts?
ps ill try the match idea

by the way the horn {type without the trumpet} is mounted behind the grill on the left side ,by a single bolt into a threaded hole in the rad suport

[mfc]

for future reference the bearing in the front of the dynamo can be replaced with a fag 6202.2rsr $7 odd

[mfc]

arthur .. chassis and vin match ,engine no 1000 lower ....
new fuel and oil in ..

still smoking and rough ,but much less so, i could'nt get the champion n21
plugs so used a nkg item {ill try the match thing today and also just
realised i gaped the plugs incorectly}

ill have a look at the timing today and see if i can get a vaccum gauge on it
,oil up the distributor and have a look at the advance

one reason it had little power was the accelerator linkages slipping around {it hits 40mph now and thats as far as i wanta push it}

the blow by has reduced a lot but still there and still puffing out a plume
when lifting of the throttle but id expect that as its been layed up
any ides as to the differing holes in regards to pork pie lights v d lights as mentioned by authur above ?
cheers mark

[wrinklearthur]

I was going through some old threads and noticed yours, so hows the progress and did you find a gasket set to do those inlet valve seals?
.

[mfc]

hi arthur
yea , still plodding along posibly approaching rego after xmas. fixed up all the wiring and wired in blinkers ,mirors on ,roof off {lol}... The smoking ,after a few short drives, has settled down to a level that should pass roadworthy , running fairly well at the moment .
ill pop up a few more curent pics a bit later.