What have I done! IIa sitting out front. [Archive]

Ozdunc

24th April 2012, 11:37 AM

I'd call it "sleeper" because it seems to be laying on the drivers side in the photo. :)

Yes, a case of post in haste, repent at leisure.:eek:

Its called Bill. I've got an 80 series Landcruiser called Ted so it had to be really.

Headlights, sidelights, indicators, number plate light and wipers ( off a boat) now work.
Brake lights are still a mystery, but the pedal switch is good.
Is the wiring sent throught the chassis? If so anyone know where it enters the chassis at the front. What I thought was the light cabling for the rear was the foot dipswitch.

I'm pretty surprised about the condition of the wiring, often the outer is rotten, but the copper core is still maleable.

It doesn't look like the brake fluid reservoir is salvageable. Can you solder them? And they seem to be made from unobtainium, so a twin plastic reservoir may be the way to go.Part:504105

Fuel filler pipe is rotten, hence why my garage stinks of petrol, and the speedo cable has snapped.
Also the fuel guage isn't working, but the guage has power, how likely is it that the sender is dead?
Washer pump works but the spigot to attach the hose from the bottle is snapped.

Wandering around underneath, the chassis and bulkhead seem in pretty good nick. They have been protected by the thin coating of engine oil that seeps out of every gasket.
THeres a bit of rust at the bottom of the bulkhead at the doors, but the pedal boxes are very good.

The out rigger have a little internal rust ( i can see rust pieces in the holes but a whack with a hammer shows it to be sound. I'll spray that once its through rego.
I think the rear x-member has been replaced once already as there's no PTO hole.

Doors have corrosion and some bog on the frames and pitting on the ali skin at the bottom.

Some of the suspension bushes have died and gone to bush heaven.

Starts first time and idles well. Runs nicely, bit noisy on the top end. Syncromesh is gone on 1st and 2nd, but thats no biggie. I'll put an engine and gearbox rebuild down as a couple of my long term goals.

Just got FC insurance from Shannons - $272 for $3000 agreed value on a standard registration, and to up the value once I start work properly is no worries. It'd be $20 more to insure for $6000. I think thats pretty good.

I think thats all the news for now.But I'm really rather stoked with my buy.:D

Cheers
Duncan

JayBoRover

24th April 2012, 02:07 PM

Syncromesh is gone on 1st and 2nd, but thats no biggie. I'll put an engine and gearbox rebuild down as a couple of my long term goals.
It's definitely "no biggie" - the S2a doesn't have synchro in 1st and 2nd gears. Only 3rd and 4th. If it doesn't jump out of gears on the overrun, then there's probably very little to be gained in pulling it apart. Get used to double-clutching my friend.

Bill looks pretty good. Enjoy.
Cheers
John B

Ozdunc

26th April 2012, 10:18 AM

Anzac day was a good day as far as Bill was concerned.

Did a 60km round trip to see some friends, roof off, no door tops, and he performed flawlessly.
I need to sort out the exhaust and fuel filler issues asap as its a bit fumey in the cabin? cockpit? esp when sitting in traffic.

No rocket ship off the lights - i don't want to rush that 1st/2nd change, but getting a nice snick on change so thats good - but definately holding his own at 60-70kmh on a light throttle.

Lights are all sorted, and the horn is fixed. Used some muffler putty to seal the manifold to the down pipe as the down pipe was a bit corroded. The manifold looked great though.

As requested a few more photos. I'm not sure about the stereo in the cabin. It might go - or I may just paint it so its less in yer face. Apologies for the engine bay one its was dark and the iphone isnt great under those circumstances.

Cheers

Ozdunc

9th May 2012, 11:23 AM

After a quiet week, a parcel arrived.:)

New speedo wire, suspension bushes, fuel filler hose, filler cap rubber, replacement brake and clutch master cylinder kit and a headlight switch ( which is now superfluous).

Speedo wire was a breeze to install. I'd expected that the screws connecting the wire to the transfer might be seized but nup came out nice and easily. The supporting bracket attached to one of the bolts on the PTO cover was a bit harder as the nut had seized to the stud, but the stud actually unscrewed from out of the transfer case, so same effect.
Stock standard the cable sits on the heat shield for the exhaust which I wasn't happy with so I zip tied it up out of the way. Not rivet counter correct, but...

Fuel filler hose was a bugger.
The Britpart bit isn't exactly the same shape as the original and there aren't really any instructions as the best way to go about it. That combined with the fact that the original hose slid off really easily meant I was duped into thinking it would be a doddle and didn't really go about it the right way.
The best way ( ie not the way I did it) would have been to undo the jubilee clips attaching the hose, and remove the filler hose. Cover the fuel tank opening to stop any muck getting in. Undo the jubilee on the breather hose at the top and remove the hose leaving it attached to the fuel tank ( I tried this but the hose was firmly stuck to the barb and I didn't have a replacement ).
Remove the filler cap and undo the 4 bolts holding the metal filler pipe to the body work. Pull the pipe through the bodywork, so you are free to move it around.
Using a suitable lubricate (soapy water, Lanox) push the new hose on to the metal pipe, ensuring the hose is oriented correctly so the other end points toward the fuel tank inlet, also ensure the hose is pushed a good way on to the metal pipe to reduce kinking.
Its easier to refit the metal pipe back onto the body at this point rather than fitting the other end of the hose to the tank opening, as the hose is really hard to compress. Easy is a relative term, you still need to adjust the hose position inside the bodywork as you align all the bolt holes. Give yourself a good perimeter away from the kids to allow for some swearing.
Once everything is fitted up top, work from the drivers seat to fit the bottom end of the hose to the tanks, making sure the hose isn't kinked at any point. Tighten all the jubilee clips and refit the fuel cap and you're done.
It would be a lot easier if the holes into the bodywork were larger and if I was doing it again I'd probably enlarge them by 5-10mm at the ends nearest the hose. It would also stop the hose from contacting the bodywork when fitted. The holes are covered so this 'improvement' can't be seen.

Next thing was to paint the new brake reservoir bracket, I just used some POR-15 I had lying around, and make sure the bolts holding the OEM bracket to the clutch master box could be undone.
Here I realised the bracket supplied was the mirror image of the shape it needed to be. Instead of holding to reservoirs to the left of the clutch master, as the original, it will hold them to the right. Bit of a shame but it will do the job for the moment. (I'm intending to refurb the OEM reservoir and refit in due course, but I want to keep Bill on the road.)

He goes to have the brake lines made up and the reservoirs fitted tomorrow and, fingers crossed, get a rego at the same time.

Ozdunc

13th May 2012, 12:16 PM

Bill chassis number gives:

243 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA
Body type: Basic or Station wagon
Wheel base: 88in
Engine: petrol
Model years: 1962-1971
Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD)
17091 Serial number
G Design: Six significant design modifications
Suffix used from April 1969 till October 1971
He failed rego. Nothing too serious, but needs the rh bulkhead outrigger replacing. There are some fairly ugly previous patches on the chassis in that area between the bulkhead and fuel riggers.

Ozdunc

16th May 2012, 11:26 AM

OK here's whats been done since the rego failure a week ago.

I suppose I should list what it failed on first of all.

No indicator light on dash ( there never was one, but happy to put one on as the idicator level does sometimes stay on)
Indicator flash too slow.
Exhaust doesn't exit bodywork.
Fuel tank leaking.
Rust in chassis outriggers
Oil leaking from front timing case round crank, and from the oil filter.
Holes in bulkhead need to be closed.
No rubbers round gearlevers and handbrake
No rubbers around doors.
Missing bumpstops on the front.
Leaking pinion seal.

There's also a little rust in the base of the bulkhead by the door pillars and a bit in the footwell with a hole in the corner that will need to be sealed. I'm unsure whether I'll just patch the hole to get it back on the road, then hit the door pillar rust properly at a later date or do it all now.
I'm tending to the former, but it will depend on what happens when I remove the bulkhead bolt from the outrigger. The bolt is almost rusted through and the outrigger is toast.

I've coated the bulkhead and door frames with SW2 to prevent any further rusting as most rust present is surface from being sanded back then not repainted by the PO.

I've stuck a screwdriver into the chassis going through the RHS bulkhead out rigger and the opposite side chassis rail will need a patch cut in and welded.
The front fuel outrigger is solid but a welded mess of patchs which will need to be cut out at some point and tidied. Unfortunately at somepoint the fuel tank was welded to the outrigger, so a new tank will need to go in.

There's a heap of muck inside the RH chassis rail which I want out. I've drilled a couple of 1" holes into the x-member under bellhousing to provide better drainage. Looking inside shows the original base of the x-member that was just plated over rather than being cut out. I suspect this will be the case with the fuel outrigger and the bulkhead outrigger, and the reason for the muck inside the chassis rail. I need to drill some more holes and then hose the chassis out (looking to get a Karcher drain clearing attachment).

I've ordered a heap of stuff from Paddocks, outriggers, exhaust, fuel tank, bumpstops, etc, but whilst thats coming I got some stuff from Roverparts to keep me going. Timing case crank seal(OEM), timing/ waterpump gaskets and a washer pump(priorities right?:cool:)

So the radiators drained and out. Its pretty new(within the year according to the invoice), so the hoses came off fairly easily. Fan and water pump came off nicely, probably cause the rocker cover leaking stopped any of the bolts seizing up;).

Here's a shot of inside the water gallery in the engine. Its pretty grungy.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99737&stc=1&d=1443078118

Apologies for the photo. It was dark, and I was using a torch to illuminate the gallery.

I want to flush this out. I was thinking of removing the thermostat and back flushing through the top. After having covered the alternator with a plastic bag.
Anyone got any better ideas?

Once thats done, I'll remove the starter motor and attempt to remove the crank pulley.
Whats the best way of removing this? I'm unsure of which way the bolts is threaded and which way the engine rotates under cranking. Is it possible to brace a breaker bar on the chassis, remove the coil HT lead and just crank the engine on the starter? Would that remove the nut or just tighten it?

A bit longwinded, but hopefully now I got Flickr sorted there'll be more pics.
Cheers
Duncan

bee utey

16th May 2012, 12:24 PM

Crank shaft centre bolt is normal RH thread. I usually put gearbox in 4th gear and handbrake on, should be enough to loosen the bolt.

Ozdunc

16th May 2012, 12:29 PM

So no need to pull the starter motor out?

chazza

17th May 2012, 07:39 AM

Here's a shot of inside the water gallery in the engine. Its pretty grungy.
I want to flush this out. I was thinking of removing the thermostat and back flushing through the top. After having covered the alternator with a plastic bag.
Anyone got any better ideas?

Flushing will remove some of the muck but I think the best bet would be to remove the core-plugs and attack inside the water jacket with screwdrivers etc. after you have flushed it.

All of that crap has probably blocked the radiator, so get that rodded as well.

Use a Tefba filter in the top hose when you get the engine running if one will fit (check their website), or some sort of strainer inside the hose, because muck will be coming out for months.

I have used this product before on my 3500 P6 and it completely de-scaled the cooling system, which was mainly hard-water lime deposits RMI Source | RMI-25 Cooling System Treatment (http://rmisource.com/)

Cheers Charlie

Timj

17th May 2012, 05:50 PM

"Whats the best way of removing this? I'm unsure of which way the bolts is threaded and which way the engine rotates under cranking. Is it possible to brace a breaker bar on the chassis, remove the coil HT lead and just crank the engine on the starter? Would that remove the nut or just tighten it?"

That is how I got mine off. Breaker bar rested on the chassis rail and a short kick of the starter. Didn't need much to break the bolt loose.

Cheers,

TimJ.

Ozdunc

18th May 2012, 11:23 AM

Ended up using a plumbers wrench and a lump hammer, couple of big taps and it loosened up nicely.

Rest of it came apart pretty well, well once I'd realised I needed to remove the 3 front bolts in the sump.

The crank seal was pretty hard and inflexible and had worn a groove in the pulley, so when fitting the new seal I positioned it a few mm inboard so it seals on an unworn section of the pully. To prevent the now exposed outer seating surface from getting rusty or pitted I put a smear of gasket goo over the surface. I used goo in preferance to HTB grease as I thought it was less likely to attract dirk and also migrate under vibration.

Back flushed the rad and the block, and didn't get much crud at all. The rad looks very new, so just decided to go with that for now.
Put it all back together and filled up, put in 5 litres of coolant, and let it idle for a while expecting the level to drop. But it didn't. Either the thermostat didn't open or I'm getting my units mixed up and the system only takes 8 pints not 8 litres.:rolleyes:

When I ran the engine with the cap off the coolant started to 'erupt' after a few minutes - I'm thinking that may mean a new head gasket. But that can wait til I've done the suspension bushes.
Now where's that gas torch...

VK3UTE

18th May 2012, 12:10 PM

Suspension bushes........:mad:

You will be a better person once you have survived that experience
Good Luck!

Ozdunc

18th May 2012, 12:54 PM

Yeah I reckon!
So far fell at the first hurdle. Can't even get the bolt out of the hole.:mad:

Do not pass GO, do not collect...

Ozdunc

21st May 2012, 04:50 PM

Well, springs are off and bushes out on the front - well one chassis bush is still in the chassis, but it will die this evening.
if you're going to attempt this plan to be cutting the front shackle bolts as they will be seized to the bushing inners.
You will need fire to burn out some of the rubbers, and a long metal blade on a jigsaw to cut the bushing outer sleeves from the springs. Its a fairly destructive process despite trying to save as many parts as I could I needed to destroy 3 bolts. Any very few of the bushings came out in any sort of shape resembling their original form.
I made an extractor for the bushings out of some hi-tensile (8.8) grade threaded bar, some 8.8 nuts, square washers, a small length of steel tube with an ID > the OD of the bushings and a little longer in length ( the bushing will get pushing into this as the nuts on either end of the bar are tightened). Have spares as I stripped the threads under load getting the first chassis bush out.
A 22mm (or 21mm at a pinch) works well as a drift to push out the bushing, and a 16mm socket as an drift extension once the 22mm starts to get deep into the chassis.

Ill look at giving the springs a bit of a refurb prior to fitting the bushings, as I'm waiting for some parts before refitting, and its probably easier to do the necessary welding to the chassis with the springs still off.

VK3UTE

21st May 2012, 05:22 PM

Glad to hear you survived the experience!
It's definitely worth cleaning up and lubricating the springs, it made a huge difference to my Mary:)

Cheers Simon

Unimog down under

21st May 2012, 05:41 PM

Hi Ozdunc, when I did that & stripped the nut's. I welded to nuts togeather to increase the threaded surface area, no more problems.;)
Stephen

Ozdunc

29th May 2012, 03:42 PM

My rear springs must be after market, each leaf is about 7mm and they've been doctored to be a little softer ( which isn't working ;))

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99738&stc=1&d=1443078499

and a close up of the rear
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99739&stc=1&d=1443078499

It looks like the 4th and 5th leaves have been removed and placed at the bottom of the pack to act as spacers and an additional retainer added to keep it all it place.
I'm thinking of trimming the now overlong leaves as they are doing nothing and just likely to hang up off-road, and remove the extra retainer as its got to be adding extra friction to the system.
Any reasons why I shouldn't trim them? Will cutting the leaf with an angle grinder cause any heat affects with in the metal?

Ozdunc

29th June 2012, 09:48 AM

Well folks, thanks to all the help from all on here Bill has rego!!!!:twobeers::banana::banana::banana:

A solid week of grinding, welding and painting, along with gluing rubbers and replacing dodgy ignition switches on the day of the inspection, got him through.
Mechanic was v impressed with the way he drove.

But even better! THe boss returned home after working abroad for a few months and she absolutely loves it! Couldn't wait to have a drive.

New chassis bushes are great, well worth the pain of the replacement, and I re-shuffled the rear springs to make them a bit more compliant. And it is only a bit.
The front springs could do with being re-set as theres only about 30mm between the axle and the bumpstop. Whats the stock distance for a 2.25 petrol motor?
Other option would be to trim the bumpstop by half, as it seems the front shock is nowhere near full compression when the axle hits the stop.

Anyone got any good ideas for making sure internal chassis rust is stopped/slowed down?
I've got a 4l tin of SW2 (like fish oil with out the smell) , but don't have a good way of getting a nice consistent delivery method through the small holes in the LR chassis. I've been using Penetrol in cans but they could really do with a longer more flexible hose as well. Any hints?

Next on the list is painting the footwells and getting rid of a little bit of rust in the corner of one. I'll just weld in a small patch I think. The lh door and the bulkhead corner post have been munched pretty hard by the tin worm but I think I can butt a patch in rather than cut the whole post out, I bought some new door bottom frames to replace the others, but I think I'll need a bit of practise with welding thinner metals first.

Does anyone want a SWB fuel tank and cradle? Free. Its drain gasket is leaking but other wise it seems sound. I though initially it had been welded to the rusty outrigger so I bought a new tank and outrigger, but once it was dismantled it was fine. But as I had the new tank I stuck that in.

Cheers

Ozdunc

11th July 2012, 11:31 AM

As well as setting the timing and giving the bare ali a coating of SW2 I decided to trim the front bumpstops.
The front springs are sagging by ~30mm and every speed bump or gutter hit straight on was like dropping of a 6" kerb as there was only 40mm of up travel before hitting that big block of rubber. So i measured the compressed length of the shocks and there's plenty of room to do a bit of bumpstop trimming.
I cut the stops in half, then linished the edges so the contacting surface was the same size as the uncut stop.
This gives me almost as much up travel as an unsagged spring before hitting the stop.
Took Bill for a test drive this morning after setting the timing and WHAT A REVELATION!!! The front end felt completely different. Instead of bracing at every lump and bump on the road, it truly felt like a short travel coil.
:cool:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99740&stc=1&d=1443078858

Trimmed Bump Stop.

Ozdunc

18th April 2013, 04:36 PM

OK, its been a long time between drinks as the saying goes so I thought I'd bring this thread up to date with whats happened to Bill since last July.

New dizzy cap and rotor, cause the rotor arm was looking pretty burnt out.

As documented in another thread I got the springs reset on the front, initially they gave a 40mm raise over stock but have sagged back to about 10mm under standard. Thats a bit of a shame, but the ride is much improved regardless so I'm reasonably happy. I do have a pair of number 2 leafs to fit into the fronts to try and stop the drivers side sagging so much, as it should sit higher than the passenger side, but isn't.
I haven't got round to that yet as I've just been too busy.

Other stuff

Added an overflow bottle for the series 3 radiator, its worked brilliantly.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99956&stc=1&d=1443447818

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/8282298591/

Refurbed the toolbox and added some anti slip rubber to keep everything nice and quiet.

Connected up a temp gauge I found in the boxes of bits the PO had given me in the sale. It's pretty flaky, but when it does work its in tandem with the original temp gauge in the dash. Also managed to find some vent flap handles.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99952&stc=1&d=1443447344

Talking of temps I found over summer sitting in traffic in 40deg the temp guage rising a tad, so I found a radiator shroud and fitted that. Its made a big difference temp needle hardly moves now.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99953&stc=1&d=1443447369

then it was a few cosmetic things - hasp for fuel cap, tailgate fixings, but most of all front and rear badges

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99954&stc=1&d=1443447369

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/8283360916/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/8283364256/

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99955&stc=1&d=1443447369

Other things have been done, both pinions seals, swivels and front hub rebuilds, but due to the amount of oil and grease involved I didn't go for a pictures.
Oh and some new tie rod ends

Rego is due end of the month, should be a lot less hassle than last year

Ozdunc

19th April 2013, 01:23 PM

Here's a bit more detail about the tie-rod ends as Bill seems to differ from the 2a parts catalogue

Here you can see the tie rod connecting the drag link to the steering arm. The tie-rod here is the older shouldered style RH thread (part no 231183)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99957&stc=1&d=1443448099

THe drag link is in 2 parts, the left hand side has the mount for the steering damper, the rhs is a plain threaded tube clamped at either end. I'm presuming its in 2 parts to be able to fine tune the positional relationship between the steering wheel and the LH front road wheel, without needing to disconnect the amper.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99960&stc=1&d=1443448190

Above shows the other end of the drag link (viewed from above) which screws into a later style tie-rod end with the thread going all the way to the ball. This is the only TRE I replaced as the rest seemed to be in pretty good condition (despite what it looks like).

The track rod is a replacement part from Britpart with the later style TRE at either end. Whether or not it originally came with shouldered TRE's I don't know.

TRE box - I bought this later style TRE from Paddocks, expecting Britpart, but its Atek who I think are German. Quality seems pretty good. Nice a smooth movement with a good casting and grease nipple, and no binding when screwing into the drag link.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99959&stc=1&d=1443448190

Ozdunc

23rd April 2013, 10:24 AM

Ha, ha! We live to fight another day.

Bill sailed through rego, with just a quick numberplate bulb replacement 5mins before we left the house.

Stoked!

:twobeers::banana::banana:

SimonM

23rd April 2013, 10:38 AM

Ha, ha! We live to fight another day.

Bill sailed through rego, with just a quick numberplate bulb replacement 5mins before we left the house.

Stoked!

:twobeers::banana::banana:

A good day. Bill looks awesome mate - still enjoying the experience I see :).
We will need a second car soon - wonder if I can sneak a series into the garage :angel:.

Ozdunc

23rd April 2013, 11:47 AM

wonder if I can sneak a series into the garage :angel:.

Do it, she'll never notice. :angel: And if she does, you can use the clothes argument she uses on you - "What this old thing? New? No, had it for ages." :D

SimonM

23rd April 2013, 02:51 PM

Do it, she'll never notice. :angel: And if she does, you can use the clothes argument she uses on you - "What this old thing? New? No, had it for ages." :D

The problem is she doesn't use that old trick :mad:. Sarah will probably want to drive it anyway.

Ozdunc

21st May 2013, 12:08 PM

I was getting fed up with having stuff sliding around in the back of Bill, I had a milk crate with oil, water, wire, blah and a jerry can kinda lashed down but it looked kind of scrappy.
I bought a spacecase type box from Bunnings as they were on special, and put it in the back, but it didn't look right and I'd tripled the value of the stuff in the tray, so it came out and went into Ted.
Still needed a container of sorts so I thought I'd build myself one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/419.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/8760402379/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/420.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/8761518412/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/421.jpg

Pretty simple, basically two small sides, the front piece, and a top with a hinged lid and a cutout for the jerry can. All covered in 3 coats of marine varnish.

Next up was to change the oil. I decided to try a 40W-70 oil just to see if that would reduce the engine knock. It did a bit - but it made starting on cold mornings that bit harder and the old boy didn't sound too happy on start up whilst the thicker oil got up to the top.
So this morning I decided to run 25W-70. Did the change, oil filter was weeping a bit (it has been since I got it) even with the new seal so I removed it again to see whether the O-ring was twisted. Put it back on and did it up. Topped it up with Penrite HPR40 and turned the key, instantly felt better on start up (but I'll hold full judgement until its been sitting for a while ), walked to the garage to put away the tools and turned round to find Bill dropping oil all over the driveway!!
It looked like the Exxon Valdez had run aground. Only lost about 1.5 litres but crikey it covers a lot of ground:eek:
Luckily I had a heap of rags to throw down. Removed the filter again and re-fitted - I mustn't have seated the blimmin' thing properly. Topped up again :rolleyes:. Started him up and sat under the chassis staring at the filter, revved it, idled, stared, revved, idled, stared - no sign of imminent oil disasters, but I did find where my oil leak was coming from...

The pressure sender. I snipped it up, only to have it keep on rotating. The threads are stripped!!!!:mad: Explains why the PO had blocked it off!
A good few layers of PTFE tape have it in at the mo, but I'm not sure what pressure that will hold.

So my current question is should I try to helicoil the thread or tap it out to a larger size? If so, what thread size should I go to, come to think of it what size is it now? 3/8" BSF?

gromit

22nd May 2013, 11:35 AM

The track rod is a replacement part from Britpart with the later style TRE at either end. Whether or not it originally came with shouldered TRE's I don't know.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/380.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/8662029198/)
TRE box - I bought this later style TRE from Paddocks, expecting Britpart, but its Atek who I think are German. Quality seems pretty good. Nice a smooth movement with a good casting and grease nipple, and no binding when screwing into the drag link.

Just reading through this thread and I hate to disappoint you but.........the TRE supplier is probably Indian
Ample Auto Tech (Pvt) Ltd. - ATEK (http://www.productpilot.com/en/suppliers/ample-auto-tech-pvt-ltd-atek/en)

A lot of aftermarket parts seem to be made in India, just re badged/re boxed Britpart, Bearmach etc.
I just got a taper roller bearing for a Series Diff. In a Bearmach box, only the part numbers of the inner & outer races etched on the bearing, no brand name. Another taper roller was in a Timken box with a Bearmach sticker, inside was a genuine Timken bearing (either luck or old stock ?)
Karson is another Indian supplier. I've had swivel hub seals, drive flanges and bearings in Karson boxes.

Regarding the pressure sender. I'd fit a thread insert, helicoil or similar, but I can't confirm the thread (possibly 1/8" BSP or BSPT ?).

Colin

Sitec

22nd May 2013, 11:47 AM

Great pics in this thread! Good work. Series vehicles are addictive.... First there was one.... ;)

Ozdunc

22nd May 2013, 06:12 PM

Just reading through this thread and I hate to disappoint you but.........the TRE supplier is probably Indian
Ample Auto Tech (Pvt) Ltd. - ATEK (http://www.productpilot.com/en/suppliers/ample-auto-tech-pvt-ltd-atek/en)

A lot of aftermarket parts seem to be made in India, just re badged/re boxed Britpart, Bearmach etc.
I just got a taper roller bearing for a Series Diff. In a Bearmach box, only the part numbers of the inner & outer races etched on the bearing, no brand name. Another taper roller was in a Timken box with a Bearmach sticker, inside was a genuine Timken bearing (either luck or old stock ?)
Karson is another Indian supplier. I've had swivel hub seals, drive flanges and bearings in Karson boxes.

Regarding the pressure sender. I'd fit a thread insert, helicoil or similar, but I can't confirm the thread (possibly 1/8" BSP or BSPT ?).

Colin

Thanks for that Colin, I've no problem with Indian stuff, or anywhere in the world as long as its made right. I was talking to a bloke in Hong Kong last year who has some light fittings designed by him and made in China, and he was saying he'd spent ages choosing a factory and he's getting a great quality high end product, but he's having problems selling them, even to the Chinese, cause they're made in China.
I must confess to thinking ATEK were German cause of the writing on the box:angel:

Doing a bit of googling I'm pretty sure the sender is 3/8" BSF thread, and it's a fairly small jump in size to 1/8" BSP which is the common size for senders for a lot of cars.
I'd prefer to stay original if possible but helicoils seem really expensive compared to buying a reasonable HSS tap, but there's a LR specialist not far away who might have the kit and suitable inserts, otherwise I'll tap it out and accept a non standard sender.

If I do go for a 1/8" BSP sender, does anyone know what pressure I should be looking at? Tridon do 0.2 bar, 0.3 and 0.4 bar (3, 4.5 and 6 psi) options which seems quite low. I thought its was about 20 psi at idle and 60 at speed (but I'm not sure where I got those figures from so they could be completely out:p )

Ozdunc

23rd May 2013, 03:35 PM

I'll reply to my own question:eek:

2a oil pressure senders - part#90519864 are 3/8" BSF and 0.65bar (9.1psi)

THese seem to have been in use from Series 1 through to mid way through series 3.

Later S3 (petrol and diesel) and 90/110 used PRC6387 which is M10x1 fine and 0.5bar (7psi)
(Also of possible use is Tridon TPS048 which is M10x1 and 0.5bar)

There's also the option of picking up a Tridon 1/8" BSP sender, 0.4bar (5.5psi)

Now which sender size to go for?
3/8" BSF is 9.525mm OD, so assuming a clean strip of the threads that should be a starting hole size.
Now M10x1 is a OD of 10mm with a tap drill size of 9mm, so cutting a M10x1 thread into our current hole would produce a thread depth half the height intended. Might work but not ideal, although the act of cutting the thread might deform the aluminium to give a better thread height than theoretical.
But it turns out better than 1/8" BSP, which has a OD of 0.383" (9.73mm) and a tap drill size of 11/32" (8.7mm)

So where to from here:rolleyes:

I think helicoil or similar first off, then an M10x1 tap with plenty of PTFE tape for a secure fit, and if that doesnt work I'll look at converting to a spin on filter housing.

gromit

23rd May 2013, 07:51 PM

Option 1, replace the oil filter housing. Someone must be scrapping a motor somewhere and could let you have the housing cheap.
Option 2, drill and tap oversize. Get someone to make an adapter 3/8"BSP internal and external to match the new thread. Loctite adapter in place and fit original oil sender.
Option 3, drill and tap M10 fine and fit Tridon sender.

I think you'll struggle to get a 3/8" BSF helicoil.

Regarding the ATEK parts....I wonder if the 'plan' was to put some German writing on the box so that people thought that they were a German manufacturer. I've noticed that the Indian parts never have a country of origin on the box.
The only issues I've had with Indian parts is most rubber items decompose before you get the vehicle back on the road.

Colin

chazza

27th May 2013, 02:07 PM

BSF Helical are available here V Coil Helical Wire Insert Thread Repair KIT FOR BSF 3 8 X 20 3 8" | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/V-Coil-Helical-Wire-Insert-Thread-Repair-kit-BSF-3-8-x-20-3-8-/160855037782?pt=UK_Measuring_Tools_Levels&hash=item2573b51756). I have bought some and they are very good :D

Forget about plastic tape and use Loctite Master Pipe Sealant (or a name like that) Read the directions though, as some metals such as aluminium need Loctite Primer on them to make it cure quickly,

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

31st May 2013, 07:19 PM

Well it's a moot point now which thread to go for. Turns out the head is cracked and will leak regardless.
I'm going to use a later adapter and convert to spin on filters, if only to prevent anymore ecological disasters in the driveway.

Ozdunc

21st June 2013, 11:19 AM

Still waiting for the adapter, with the supplier not answering my emails :censored:

Bit peeved about that, but there is a bright side! I'm attacking some of those jobs you just stick on the back burner.

My passenger side footwell has a plate bolted over it, so I was presuming it covered up something nasty. So I pulled it off...
...and it was.
The upper part to the pan had a few holes where the rust had got through, but they were up behind the splash guard in the wing so you couldn't see them from the other side. my initial reaction was to cut out the section and re-weld a section in, then I looked at the back side of the plate that was covering the holes and I could see reside of many colours of paint. So this was a 'repair' of many moons standing, and whilst there were holes in the bulkhead there was no sign of rust. I attacked the area with a hammer and screwdriver and it was solid, so I rather than trying to fold myself in half cutting and welding in the footwell I decided to reinstate the 'repair'.
First thing was to pull out the floor and gearbox panels, degrease them, etch and hit with 2 coats of POR-15, then did the same with the footwells and under the wings, once that was dry, I refitted the 'repair' panel with a layer of Sikaflex marine in the area where the holes were in the foot well, and roughly bolted it in to position. Then working from under wing I added Sikaflex into the holes and made it good.
I could have used bondo but as its not showing, I like the fact that the Sikaflex is waterproof and flexible. And now the footwell has a double skin its most likely stronger than the original pressing.
I don't have a photo atm, but with a new coat of paint it looks pretty good.

Another thing I've decided to do is refurb my Zenith, and this is where I need your help.
I've bought a Zenith service kit and had a look at the list of contents and checked them against what was in the kit, and I've got way to many bits and they don't seem to tally with the parts diagram.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/398.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9097873026/)
Parts listing. The circles and squares are the parts in the kit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/399.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9097869154/)
Parts diagram.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/400.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9097870316/)
Parts corresponding to the listing and diagram.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/401.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9095639647/)
Parts that seem not to correspond to anything in the diagram.

Some of these a pretty specific - the volume control screws must be depending on manufacture date or something, but the copper washer for example (I'm presuming it must go somewhere affected by fuel inside the carb)
Maybe it will all become self explanatory once I open it up, but does anyone have any ideas??

Cliffy

21st June 2013, 11:26 AM

Nice bus. I love those late IIa's

UncleHo

21st June 2013, 10:47 PM

G'day Ozdunc

In regards to those tie rod ends,yes,the Series 2/2a and from memory the Series 1's all have shouldered tie rod ends originally,the tie rods also have the thread countersunk back into the rod,the shoulder is where you place the clamp,BUT,the Series 3 models did away with the shoulder/ countersunk and went to a full thread rod and end,this then made the clamped surface as the peaks and hollows of the thread,and if worn would cause problems.

There is a possability that you vehicle could have a mixture, the 2a's had shouldered units,being a " suffix "G" vehicle it may have a fairly straight gear lever that should de-note a full synchro gearbox,but age will negate the synchro/baulk rings the more cranked gear levers were the standard earlier 2/2a units which were non-synchro on 1st & 2nd.

When tuning a 36IV Zenith carby the mixture needle is IN=weaker and OUT= Richer opposite to a early Holden Stromberg ! They also have a habit of warping at the air horn join from being over tightened,face up using fine wet & dry on a piece of glass,a louvre will do,float lever I'd critical 1/2 inch from top of float bowl face,adjust by bending float ears up or down to suit,but do it evenly,and the centre large "O" ring must be in good condition and seal correctly.

cheers

Ozdunc

24th June 2013, 02:15 PM

Thanks for the info on the rods and the tips on the carby Uncle Ho.

I've got the cranked gear lever so its definitely the older non syncro box

As promised here a few pics of my painting
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/242.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9121736279/)
Under the wing, you can see the splash guard had been already chopped for the original fix

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/243.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9123961510/)
The new plate, and the new paint job. It looks a little rough, but I wasn't after a pristine finish as its going to be covered with a mat, and the super shinyness should fade with time
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/244.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9121740053/)
I should probably paint the bellhousing cover and the ugly plate on the bulk head

chazza

25th June 2013, 07:48 AM

G'day Ozdunc

,BUT,the Series 3 models did away with the shoulder/ countersunk and went to a full thread rod and end,
cheers

Early S3's had the shouldered TRE; that is why it is so important for us all, to see what is actually on our cars before replacing them,

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

2nd July 2013, 01:56 PM

Well its all change with Bill at the mo.
These forums are dangerous. I picked up this at the weekend

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1569.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9190060060/)

The current engine needs a rebuild, which I still intend to do, but getting the time and having the old boy off the road meant I was avoiding doing the necessary. Then the engine above came up for sale. It was just meant to be.

It should be a fairly simple swap as the engine came with all the ancillaries. I'll document the job as it goes along. I've never done an engine swap before, so feel free to stick an oar in if I appear to be getting it wrong (which is more than possible :) )

First thing was to remove the grill and disconnect the LHS side lights in the wing. First problem - no connectors. So I added some
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1570.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9190436464/)
I removed the bonnet - this is really easy to do alone IF you have no roof. Disconnect the bonnet stay, and remove the split pin from the hinge. Lean the bonnet against the windscreen, and go stand on the front seats. Grab either side of the bonnet and side it sideways, once out of the hinges its light enough to lift up and out of the way. I stuck mine in the tub on a bit of cardboard.

Remove the floor and gearbox covers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1571.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9190463990/)

Drain the coolant, disconnect the top and bottom hoses, then unbolt the front panel from the winds and front support, lifting it off with the rad still attached.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1572.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9187672601/)

And thats pretty much where I'm at today.

Ozdunc

2nd July 2013, 02:09 PM

Ozdunc

2nd July 2013, 02:16 PM

OK next question:angel:

Currently my brake servo gets its vacuum by plumbing into the inlet manifold just under the Zenith
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1566.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9187644787/)

The new engine is a series 3 donk and has a basic EGR system to catch blow by and its plumbed into the same port below the Zenith

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1567.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9187657453/)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1568.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9190456108/)

Can I use the same port for both purposes, by adding a T-piece between the PCV and the inlet and connecting the servo pipe to it?

Ozdunc

2nd July 2013, 02:34 PM

OK final question for today

Alternators.

Current model is a Lucas 15AC - there are 4 wires in the loom leading to it, 2 of the wires join up and seem to go into the same hole, theres a slightly thicker wire connecting to the + terminal, then another wire connecting to an unmarked terminal. One of these wires is the one that connects to the Bosch RE55 regulator on the bulkhead.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1564.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9187647569/)
Looking at the wiring diagram - one wire goes to the indicator/charge light (probably the one that connects to the regulator), but the rest all seem to end up connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid. Why do that? Why not just one thicker wire?

Ok the new alternator is a Lucas 14AC with 2 terminals (+ve and IND) - how do I wire it up seeing as I have 4 wires in use currently? Do I need a regulator? How can I tell?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1565.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9190446222/)

Sorry for so many questions, but I'd rather ask than bugga up my wiring:wasntme:

Ozdunc

3rd July 2013, 10:37 AM

Ignore this post I'm an idiot.

Feel free to chime in with any hints :)

Ozdunc

3rd July 2013, 11:21 AM

The new engine came with an electronic dizzy.
Now my current Ducellier dizzy only seems to have 2 connections to the coil - the high tension lead and a thin wire (lo-tension?)from a +ve terminal on the coil. I'm presuming the dizzy grounds through connection to the block.

The new dizzy has 3 leads - hi-tension, a red wire (lo-tension?) and a black wire - do I just connect as before but run the black wire back to the -ve terminal on the coil?

There also a wire connected to the -ve spade on the coil at the moment. I've tried to trace it but it just disappears into the loom, any ideas what that might be?

Finally do I need a certain type of coil for electronic distributors?
Its got an Echlin GX80 atm, with 'No external resistor required' written on it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1520.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9190467320/)

Is my coil currently wired incorrectly?
In every negatively earthed system I've seen on the web, the ignition feed is wired to the +ve terminal on the coil, and then the -ve terminal has the wire to the dizzy.
On mine - the ignition feed is connected to the -ve and the dizzy wire to the +ve.
It works fine, so does it matter which way a coil is connected as long as its consistent?

Ozdunc

4th July 2013, 02:16 PM

It works fine, so does it matter which way a coil is connected as long as its consistent?

To answer my own question above.
Yes it does matter as it reverses the polarity of the spark ( the spark arcs TO the centre electrode, instead of FROM) and reduces the effectiveness of coil by about 15%. This will only show itself up as the coil reaches the upper limits of its design, in a 2.25 that only runs to 4300rpm you may never notice.
However you should notice the spark plug ground wire getting shorter

Ignition coil polarity (http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm)

I will be sorting out the polarity before fitting my new dizzy.

I'm writing this brain dump here, so when I refurb my engine and try to refit it I have some idea of how this alternator is connected.:eek:

My current alternator wiring appears to be a bit of a bodge.
A 15AC alternator requires 3 wires, B+, DF, IND
B+ to the battery (or battery side of the starter solenoid)
DF to the voltage regulator
IND to the INDicator light

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1495.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9187659849/)

I have 4 .
#1. The one from the voltage regulator (the purple wire to the left), joins with one (#2)of the two wires coming out of the black conduit, they then enter the plastic housing (near 15AC 12V writing) and it looks like the wire loops round to attach to the IND diode plate (far right inside the plastic housing).
#3. The brown wire with the yellow spade cover attaches to the B+ terminal ( and is the other wire from the conduit )
#4. The black wire in the centre (seems to come off a terminal on one of the brushes) - I'm thinking this must be the DF and this should link up with the voltage regulator at some point

Wires #2,#3,#4 all disappear into the wiring loom never to be seen again.

OK what of the 14AC - this has an internal regulator and only needs the IND and B+ terminals (ie the 2 wires in the black conduit #2, #3).
So if I fit those, turn the ignition and the charge light comes on - it should be good.

Ozdunc

8th July 2013, 11:13 AM

Another post answering my own questions;)

The EGR/PCV should be connected before the carb, connecting afterwards can upset the air/fuel ratios.
Bill's inlet hose doesn't have the fitting to attach this, so I think I might just rig up some sort of catch can and pipe to the there.
The brake servo will connect back to the manifold port.

Ozdunc

8th July 2013, 11:19 AM

More progress

Engine out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1294.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9233772717/)

An oily, sludgy mess on the cross member, but no rust:twisted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1295.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9236556042/)

Blurry shot of the engine bay - it'll need a bit of cleaning and I might as well paint the chassis whilst I'm in there
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1296.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9233775739/)

Awaiting rebuild
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1297.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9236558568/)

Ozdunc

12th July 2013, 03:25 PM

Well progress is slower this week, as it seems to consist of cleaning the engine bay. Since I've got the engine out I might as well take the time to give it a bit of a spring clean.
Its amazing how baked on mud can get:eek: I've got black panels that turn out to be green, and chassis rails with a solid coating of dirt that needs a wire brush and scraper to get off.
And then areas where there have been oil leaks with a gooey coating of oily twigs, feathers and who knows what.
Good news is that it all looks in pretty good condition underneath it all, but it going to take another while before its anywhere near painting.
I'm almost considering re-wiring.

Almost. But no. All the wiring works and its an extra expense to add the list of Landie related expenses that seem to blowing out my budget:wasntme:

Anyway some progress elsewhere
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1119.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9265352391/)
Swapped the S3 plate for a new AP 2a 9.5" pressure plate

Looked at the top hat release plate for the clutch and its pretty scored, and since I was planning to replace the thrust bearing, I thought I might as well replace this, so I'm awaiting delivery of that and a gasket set. It should give me the chance to sort out why my slave clutch linkage hits the grease nipple on the front propshaft as well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1120.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9265351377/)
Scored 'tophat'
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1121.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9268126336/)
but the splines look OK

Ozdunc

18th July 2013, 04:29 PM

OK, painted the rear of the bulkhead, the chassis from front back to, and including, the gearbox x-member, and the battery tray and airfilter seat with POR-15

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/649.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9313440078/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/650.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9313439424/)

I didn't take the chasis back to bare metal, I wire brushed it, degreased it, painted it with Metal Ready to etch , degreased it again as i wasn't happy, then anything that was still there was judged to be of sufficient quality that it wasn't going to peel off, so it got painted over.
Not the best finish in the world, but its a chassis not the Mona Lisa:p

Ozdunc

19th July 2013, 01:30 PM

Whilst I had the paint tin open I did the rest of the bulkhead in the 'cockpit'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/594.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9316300141/)
Gearbox bellhousing cover

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/595.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9316301693/)
Blending in that horrible aluminium plate

I should degrease the gearbox whilst its all accessible.
When I finally roll Bill back outside the garage floor is going to need a REALLY good scrub!

Ozdunc

22nd July 2013, 10:23 AM

Its cleaning time!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/415.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9337408153/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/416.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9337406991/)
You could eat your dinner off it!

And added some new wing mirrors and new wipers. Hopefully they'll wipe rather than smear

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/417.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9337413715/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/418.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9340201426/)

Wipers look at bit modern for the arm but hopefully a bit of paint will blend the arm in til I get round to finding a proper wiper motor and associated bits.

Ozdunc

25th July 2013, 10:11 AM

Before I took out the engine, I drew a little picture and wrote on it everything that was disconnected and roughly where it was connected from

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/330.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9360169849/)

I tick them off as I undid them, and then i'll tick them again as I reconnect them. Hopefully this will prevent me from missing something.

Also the spin on oil adapter I ordered has arrived. I'm planning on putting this on the new engine and keeping the old one should I ever decide to do a full restore on Bill

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/331.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9362948308/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/332.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9362949334/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/333.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9360174169/)

Its pretty nicely machined, but you need an M10 thread oil sender from a later S111 or 2.5 Defender

Ozdunc

1st August 2013, 10:06 AM

Still waiting for clutch mechanism parts to arrive...

...tumbleweed rolls by...

So I pulled the clutch withdrawal mechanism in preparation

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1578.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9412997002/)
All gone.

Disconnecting the cross shaft I found that one of the pins was held in with a nail, and the rubber grommet to the bellhousing was on backwards, leaving the cross shaft protruding through a 1" big hole. Rather than refitting correctly someone had wrapped the shaft with a thin foam strip and clamped it with a bit of coke can and a nut and bolt. A bit Heath Robinson but it kinda worked!
I'm planning to fit the grommet the right way round :D

Pulling the mech off revealed some pretty good news - there was minimal sludge at the bottom of the casing, and all the components looked to be in good condition.
The top hat withdrawal sleeve is actually in good condition, what Id though was scoring is actually how the face is machined.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1579.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9407747656/)
And from the inside - with a quick wipe of the mating face and the bottom of the casting (to the LH side of the pic) - I haven't touched the fork prongs or the bearing.
Bearing is as smooth as silk. If only I'd had X-ray vision I could have left this completely alone and had the engine in by now. Oh well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1580.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9407745138/)

Since I have a new FAG bearing, and a top hat and cross shaft bushings coming I may as well continue with my plan to change them all, but I'm going to leave everything as it is until the parts arrive. I'd hate to press the top hat out of the bearing and risk possible damage only to have to refit due to parts getting lost on route.
But planning ahead, a 26mm socket should make a very suitable drift, sits on the bust nicely with a bit of play once inside the inner face of the bearing.
Yet to figure out the best way of holding the casing whilst drifting the top hat out.

garrywlh

2nd August 2013, 05:58 AM

Thanks for this. Shows me how much I still have to learn! Very little of what you have written makes any sense at all to me at this early stage. :eek:
Since you are rebuilding the clutch, may I ask what you reckon is the problem with mine. I am having increasing difficulty getting Hedley into gear without horrendous crunching whenever I try, and yet sometimes, it slips in gear just fine. Would this be a clutch adjustment issue, or something more complicated? Is this something I could put right while the drivetrain is still all together, or will I have to wait until I pull the engine out?
Many thanks.
Garry

Ozdunc

2nd August 2013, 10:59 AM

Mate, I'm no expert. I'm just winging it as I go along:D

My usual technique for troubleshooting is to always trying the simple things first.
1st and 2nd have no syncro so they're always going to be notchy.
I'd be checking your clutch pedal height, master cylinder adjustment and slave cylinder adjustments first of all, as these can be done easily.
Then I'd probably try bleeding the system, testing the integrity of the seals in the cylinders.
After that if it doesn't work I'd move on to the clutch, maybe the springs are tired, the plate is worn, and if none of that checks out its the gearbox.

The proper LR manual for the 2a has a pretty good troubleshooting guide for the gearbox in it - if you dont have one, you should get one. And the parts catalogue - just seeing all the pieces that make up a part often makes working on it much easier.

series3

2nd August 2013, 11:31 AM

Hey Dunc,

Where did you source the spin-on from? I have only had luck from Canada so far...

Sam

Ozdunc

2nd August 2013, 01:09 PM

Paddocks.
Part No ETC5347.

Can't rememeber the price as it was in with a bunch of other stuff, they're not cheap though.

garrywlh

2nd August 2013, 04:18 PM

Ozdunc

2nd August 2013, 05:07 PM

The Haynes is pretty good but not a patch on the proper LR workshop manual.
Itd be a good investment as you're doing a ground up restore.
It's full title is "Land Rover Series II and IIa Repair Operation Manual", reference AKM8159

garrywlh

2nd August 2013, 08:32 PM

Thanks once again. Never heard of it. I thought the Haynes was the only workshop manual. I have just ordered a Repair Operation Manual. I need all the help I can get. :cool:

chazza

3rd August 2013, 10:38 AM

Never heard of it. I thought the Haynes was the only workshop manual.

Have a look at this shop and you will find that most books are available for Land Rovers.
Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 Books | Manuals | Paddock (http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-series-2-and-3/books-manuals.html)

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

7th August 2013, 12:34 PM

Whilst still waiting for the clutch bits over the weekend i installed the spin on oil adapter to the engine, and coated the headers with penetrol (I have no idea how long it will last once the old fella is back running, but if it retards the rust even for a little while its good, plus it looks nice:) )

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1306.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9453853753/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1307.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9453857473/)

Ozdunc

7th August 2013, 12:58 PM

Then yesterday the parts arrived! Huzzah!

So I removed the cross-shaft and fork and drifted out the top-hat bush from the release bearing
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1301.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9456371854/)

Then compared the new bearing and bushing to the old set, they are close but not close enough. New one on left, old on right.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1302.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9453588677/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1303.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9453593793/)

I looked at the differences and the width of the hat is the same as is the overall height and internal diameter (at the bearing end) , but its the bearing thats the issue. The FAG bearing is 72mm across (the SKF original bearing is 70mm), and won't fit in the casing.

Another difference in the hat is in my current one there is a ridge the accepts a rubber seal to prevent oil leaking out along the input shaft

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1304.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9456373128/)

Here's the casing casting with the number stamp on it incase anyone can shed any light on the matter.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1305.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9456370700/)

Some other info that might help:
the bearing is a SFK 98207
case casting A528708
release fork 264807S

Gearbox 25400489A

Luckily the bearing and the hat are in good condition as are the seals and brass
bushes, so I'm going to drift the bearing back on and refit the whole unit with a new gasket
Hopefully the engine will go in the weekend
:cool:

garrywlh

7th August 2013, 03:56 PM

thanks so much for this helpful info on this Dunc.

btw, your advice about my clutch problem was spot on. I persisted with adjusting the pushrod at the slave cylinder and, whadayaknow - smooth, quiet gear changing on all gears. :)

cheers!

Ozdunc

8th August 2013, 09:37 AM

Excellent news. Nice to know there's no gremlins in the gearbox.

The clutch unit is back on with new gaskets and the gearbox filled with oil.

Is it just me, but its a great feeling putting clean fresh oil into a component:D

Ozdunc

12th August 2013, 11:32 AM

Well its been a big weekend - the new engine is in! Huzzah.

But before that here's the bellhousing for one last time
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1013.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9489109055/)

The grommet fitted as it should be - its a right pain to fit though. You need to get the grommet over the end of the clutch release unit at the same time as forcing the lip of the grommet through the bell housing. Took me about 40mins and much grunting and sweating to do this 'simple' job.

Fitted some new clutch pins to the cross shaft
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1014.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9491909218/)

Definitely use the proper hardened pins, the old ones were showing signs of the pressure they get put under. Hard to show on a photo but you could feel the ridges down the the pin shaft.

OK, so here we go - engine in!!!!!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1015.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9489110125/)

Tip: don't think you can shortcut and put the engine mounts on before getting the bell housing to mate - it doesn't work and you end up scratching your newly painted chassis
Tip2: 2 heads and 4 hands are not negotiable.
Tip3: 4ft length of 4x2 timber aid in wiggling from the front of the engine and a length of 2x1 to wiggle the gear box helps that final seating together.
Tip4: Remember to put the 'box in gear

In the above photo you can see the PCV (the green disc by the carb). I'm not to sure about adding oil back into the inlet manifold after the carb incase the air/fuel mixture gets affected( I might be over thinking this ), and I needed the port for the brake servo anyway. So I rigged up a catch can

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1016.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9491906870/)

It's just a length of fuel hose into a small unused paint tin with some steel wool scourer pads and a breather hole
I'll keep an eye on it and depending on how much oil it collects I'll decide what to do.

Mostly back together - connected the battery and was much relived to see a charge light and the oil pressure light come up
Still need to put the cooling system back together and connect the lights but its looking a lot more like it should.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1017.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9489112829/)

SII Josh

12th August 2013, 06:24 PM

awesome stuff, loving the pics

chazza

13th August 2013, 07:32 AM

Tip3: 4ft length of 4x2 timber aid in wiggling from the front of the engine ...

I agree - both my S3 and S1 are conveniently supplied with a front cross-member, which acts as the fulcrum for the lever and makes a hefty push rearwards absurdly easy :D

Nice job Dunc!

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

14th August 2013, 12:13 PM

Cheers chaps!

I'm almost there. I've connected the headlights back up, and chopped the exhaust ready to mate to the headers, just need to connect the chopped bit back in and add some coolant.

Then prime the oil filter and pump ( I'll dribble some oil over the rockers and down the push rods as well) and it'll be time to turn him over!!!

I'm very excited, but a little bit scared as well. :)

ezyrama

14th August 2013, 07:33 PM

Looking good Dunc, Its a great feeling when you get one back together, Cant wait to fire Ralph up (Hopefully next weekend).
Cheers Ian

Ozdunc

15th August 2013, 11:19 AM

Exhaust is connected to the headers

The end of the headers were sized so that the OD of the standard exhaust was the ID of the headers so you could slip one inside the other. Pretty cool :cool:

However in practice the slight bend/shaping on the tube where they would join meant they weren't going to fit without much force and or reaming the ID of the headers. So I trimmed the exhaust to butt up instead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/894.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9514462902/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/895.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9514460970/)

After cutting and a nice coating of Penetrol:D

To join the two ends I had a reducing sleeve made up by my local exhaust place. Done while-U-wait and only $20 with clamps, can't complain about that.

Bit of wiggling and all set up. Its a nice snug fit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/896.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9511674323/)

But wasn't happy with the clamp positioning - if you twist them to minimise how much they hang down, they'll knock on the chassis once its moving. So I'm trying some stainless Jubilee clips.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/897.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9514459756/)

As you can see much smoother and more aero-dynamic :angel:

Ozdunc

19th August 2013, 11:26 AM

A weekend of highs and lows and highs again:D

Removed the rocker cover and using a 2 stroke oil syringe dribbled oil over the rockers and down the pushrods, removed the plugs and stuck <5mm of oil into the plugs holes, and left that to seep around for 40mins or so.
Meanwhile filled the oil filter and screwed in on - didn't spill a single drop then used on of the casting ports on the filter adapter to prime the oil gallerys. The oil was vertical rather than using the horizontal oil sender port, so no mess.

Turned the starter motor over twice for 5 secs a time and the oil pressure light went out:cool: Reconnected the plugs leads, pushed Bill out the garage into the light, and turned the key. Stalled a couple of times, getting fuel into the carb, then started running, gave it some herbs and plumes of smoke came out.
This I think was due to the oil I'd put in the chambers, and the fact that the low idle mixture screw was completely out on the carby.
Charge light went out on idle, so I'm thinking I got the alternator wiring OK.
Played with the idle and mixture screws and got it to idle quite nicely, not perfect but no puffing and no smoke.
Tried rolling backwards and forwards in the driveway but gears were graunching, esp changing from first to reverse and vice versa.

Adjusted the slave cylinder to the manual, no change so played around with the pushrod setting until noises seems to go away.
Put the bulkhead panels and the floor in, ready for the maiden journey.
Reversed down the drive, and out on the street, which is a little uphill. Engine was losing power under load and needed a few herbs to move, then there was a soft pop from the gearbox/clutch area and Bill had no drive. Nothing in any gear, and I'm stuck halfway out into the road.:(

Out with the tirfor and I winched my forlorn little truck back towards the garage.
A this point I had to leave it for the day as it was getting dark, I was a little despondent.

A new day dawned and I had a plan.
I re-bled the slave. No change, hmmm.
I disconnected the pushrod completely from the cross shaft lever as I thought maybe that my fettling yesterday had over adjusted the pushrod and that the clutch plate wasn't clamping down properly. Disconnected, I then thought I can check the clutch operation by key starting the truck and having it bounce forwards. Started it and it sat there idling happily with no sign of movement:no2:
At this point I'm getting a bit down and thinking I've mucked up the mating of the engine and bellhousing and cracked or broken the clutch plate somehow, so I resign myself to having to pull out the gearbox and start again. I pull out the mats on the drivers side, and it hits me - the big red lever is sitting in the middle. All this angst and my only issue is a neutral transfer case :facepalm:
Do I feel like a complete plonker or what?

Reconnected the slave, realising that the pushrod is nothing like the one in the manual, set the slave to be at the top of its stroke when the clutch fork is just touching the bearing. And with the transfer case now in high, the gearbox shifts beautifully.

I'm still having a few issues with timing and fuelling as its not running too well under load, but it is going backwards and forwards under its on power. I'm calling it a win :banana::twobeers::banana:

My exhaust fix - didn't. Jubilee clips don't give enough clamping force to make the sleeve airtight, actually neither do the other clamps, but combined with some exhaust bandage it works very well.
Although after wrapping and hardening the bandage I realised that the exhaust had rotated and was touching the gearbox mount and is probably the source of my vibrations in the bodywork. I'll sort that later.

He's back together and looking good. I'm happy.
Cheers

pk.hoarder

23rd August 2013, 10:35 PM

" I pull out the mats on the drivers side, and it hits me - the big red lever is sitting in the middle. All this angst and my only issue is a neutral transfer case :facepalm:
Do I feel like a complete plonker or what?"

Dunc, a complete plonker would have realised this AFTER removing the gearbox! Good work, glad to see it coming together!

Ozdunc

11th September 2013, 01:07 PM

Been and gone to the UK for a couple of weeks to see the Olds ( and just happened to pick up a coil whilst I was passing Dingocroft :D )

Whilst I was there Dad and I went to the Imperial War Museum airfield at Dunsfold in Cambridgeshire. Amazing place. They have SO much really cool stuff - the first test Concorde, a Blackbird, a B52D Superfortress, Vulcan, Canberras, Tornadoes, Harriers, etc it was awesome, plus a load of old engines to stare at.
There also a cool Land Warfare display in one of the buildings, whats really good is the building opens to the outside on 3 sides, so all the tanks, trucks, etc are given a run every once in a while, in the mud!!
Whilst I was there I saw a SAS D90. Apparently these are nicknamed 'Dinky' as they're the smaller version of the 110 Pink Panther ('Pinky')
Here's a couple of shots...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1159.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9674404638/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1160.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9708400008/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1161.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9708402538/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1162.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9705169701/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1163.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9708405456/)

Ozdunc

11th September 2013, 01:23 PM

Haven't done anything since before going to the UK to sort out the hesitation on accelerating, but I have chucked on a new coil and put a new spade on the ignition wire.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1156.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719527273/)

I'm wondering whether it might be worth fitting a relay to that ignition feed and running a thicker wire to the coil, might give a bit more oomph to the spark.

The main reason for not trying to sort out the running was because my canvas truck cab arrived :cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1338.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9722756880/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1339.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9722758028/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1524.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719530409/)

Its not a simple install (there were no destructions for starters) and you need to install some extra tiedowns on the back of the tub

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1523.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719531403/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1157.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9722761190/)

And rivet the metal leading edge of the canopy to the windscreen surround, plus adding fittings to hold the tonneau bar. None of it hard but it took a couple of trial fits and a bit of time to get right.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1158.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719533391/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1525.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/9719534465/)

but I'm pretty happy:D

Ozdunc

11th September 2013, 02:29 PM

Ozdunc

11th September 2013, 02:44 PM

And I also forgot to mention...:angel:

Chatting to Tim at Dingocroft, I mentioned the differences between the clutch release bearing and tophat sleeve (see a few pages back). He seemed to think that my original parts are part of the fully sealed clutch withdrawal unit found on the later gearboxes.
The giveaway is the seal inside the tophat and a smooth input shaft, rather than the usual spiral version.

Wonder why my gearbox has a A suffix?

garrywlh

12th September 2013, 05:31 AM

And I forgot to to say that whilst I was at Dunsfold, they were setting up for the AirShow on the weekend. I got to hear a Rolls Royce Merlin engine at full bore from 50 metres away as they were fine tuning a Spitfire ready for her fly past on the weekend (anniversary of the Battle of Britain)

:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::c ool::cool::cool::cool:

Very cool indeed. My boy and I went to the Battle of Britain Autumn Air Show at Duxford last year. What a hoot. The Spitfires were fantastic, but the Sally B - the only operational B-17 in Europe - was the highlight of the day for me. Here is a 2 min video (http://youtu.be/tjZssl-QMHE) of her that I shot.

Dinty

12th September 2013, 05:50 AM

I'm curious about an image in post No 83, image No 2 showing the 'Dinky' and in the background is an International 4 x 4 as designed & used by the Australian Army, makes you wonder why/how it got there, cheers Dennis:angel:

Ozdunc

12th September 2013, 09:27 AM

Sally B was sitting on the tarmac but sadly for me she was unmanned. Beautiful plane though, up there with the Lancaster.

Dennis, that part of the display was on the Gulf war and the whole display contained trucks and tanks from all nations. It starts at WW1 with trains, horse drawn carts and towed guns, and evolves through WWII with US, German and Italian through to the current day. All* the vehicles have seen active service, apart from one Tiger tank which was a repro built for 'Saving Private Ryan'

* It might not be 'all' but most the vehicles and planes in the display had personal histories of where they were deployed and in the case of the planes the dates they were flown to Duxford

Ozdunc

16th September 2013, 01:14 PM

Replaced the new carb with the old one (after giving it a bit of a clean) on Fri night.
Turned it over took a while to fire up, and sounded a bit off when idling, so I checked the timing it was about 2deg ATDC. I can't have tightened the dizzy too well.
Anyway, reset it back to 6deg BTDC and took it for a spin.

WOW!!!! Its got some power!!!

(Power being a relative term, mind:p )

Didn't have a great amount of time but did about 6km, enough to warm him up. Got back, nice idle, but chuffing from the exhaust a bit too often, checked the timing again sitting at ~8deg BDTC
Its running nicely with no pinking, and from what I've read about electronic dizzys they allow a fair bit of extra advance over points, so for now I'll leave it as it is.
Gave the idle screw a 1/4turn out to reduce the chuffing to about a chuff/min (that's a registered term of measurement:angel:)
Then I ran out of petrol. Luckily Bill was idling in the driveway when it happened. Fuel gauge has suddenly stopped working :censored: How does that happen?
Come to think of it the temp gauge isn't working either, maybe theres something afoot with the voltage regulator thingy behind the dashboard. Hmmm...

Ozdunc

17th September 2013, 10:11 AM

Fuel gauge is working:imwithstupid:

Removed the float from the tank and played around with it - worked like a charm. Just doesn't register less than 5 litres in the tank.

Now a question about the water temp sender - where is it? Is it the triangular 3 bolt sensor to the right of the thermostat as you look at the engine from the front of the truck (this i'd assumed was the cold start sensor), or is it the sensor that sits under the thermostat above the timing cover and accessed from the left hand side as you look from the front (I'd assumed this was the water temp sensor)

If I'm wrong it would explain why my temp gauge isn't working - I haven't connected it:oops2:

Ozdunc

19th September 2013, 03:11 PM

I have connected it right. I'm not a complete numpty.

Gauge is working fine, so I've just ordered a new sensor...

...and a halogen light upgrade.:cool:

And some 3" rear lights to replace the busted originals I took off a year or so ago to get through rego.

Ozdunc

14th October 2013, 10:38 AM

Well not much to report over the last few weeks, Bill has being doing the runs to the garden centre and general whatnot.
Running really well, but but a bit of a pop on overrun so I suspected I could probably do with a couple more degrees of advance on the dizzy.

So this weekend I decided to tune it a bit more. I'm pretty happy tuning by ear but being a bit OCD (engineering background) I was never convinced about the idle speed it was set at.
So I toddled off to Repco and bought a cheap digital tacho to run off the coil. Then rather than tune by ear I thought I'd use the vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture.
Bill was nice and warm now thanks to the shopping trip, so I rigged up the tacho to sit on the air filter box and plugged the vacuum gauge into the port for the brake servo.
Vacuum was 20Hg with a nice steady needle and idle at bit high at 600. Apparently 18-20 is a good number.
Dialling the fuel out a bit more gave 21Hg and an idle of 650rpm, so I reduced the idle down to 500. Vacuum stayed at 21Hg. Couple of snaps of the throttle all good.
Had to leave it at this point yesterday.

Got up this morning and started Bill up, idle was steady but sounded low. Gave it a few mins to warm up on a light throttle, then headed of for a drive round the block.
What a dog! It was stuttering under load and hesitant/kangarooing after slow corners.
Drove back to house and check the engine temp block was 71deg so warm enough. Plugged the tacho and vacuum gauge back in ad Hg was still steady at 21 but the idle was at 430rpm.
Now I'm not sure what difference ambient temp makes when tuning but yesterday it was 34deg and this morning it was 13.
Anyway reset the idle to 550 (500 seemed a bit low and the wings were vibrating heaps), and went for another drive. Totally different car! Instant response to throttle, etc.
Then decided to set the timing via the vacuum gauge, started at 6-7deg, highest Hg reading was at ~10degBTDC, backed off 1Hg (as setting to the highest vacuum reading will throw your advance out at higher rpm and leading to pinking). Its now running at about 8deg.
Another drive, even better low speed throttle response (maybe not pulling so hard it the middle revs, but that might be my imagination) and no pinking under load up a steep hill.
I'm sold on the cheap tacho/vacuum gauge method of tuning, as it give you a empirical set of numbers to go off, and I do think I've got a more responsive tune than I had going by ear and certainly over the book settings.

It'll be interesting to see how he drives on the next cold start, I may have to reconnect the choke to the dash.
And I may set the idle speed to around 600 as it just seems smoother at that point - anyone know whether 8:1 compression engine have a different idle to 7:1?

And finally, just cause everyone loves piccys - heres a couple of Bill out in the sun
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/836.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10257971166/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/837.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10257778956/)

Ozdunc

18th October 2013, 04:42 PM

Well I haven't restarted Bill again as he's in the garage, but thinking about the choke reminded me my dash layout was pretty random, so I pulled it apart to move the switches to where Mr Land Rover had decreed they should be.

Pulling the dash off and digging around I found this
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/583.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10340807766/)

Which is probably the reason I don't currently have a choke:oops2:

Now I think the switch is still complete but I will need a new cold start/choke assembly. These appear to be like rocking horse doo.

I've found some generic assemblies and even a old 69 choke cable off a Mini Cooper (big $$$ though), but none of them seem like they'll enable the switch to be fitted.
I think I just fit a generic one as the lever looks pretty similar to the original style, but if anyones got any bright ideas about how to integrated the switch back in I'd be interested.
Cheers.

Ozdunc

22nd October 2013, 12:41 PM

Well it was chemical clean out day over the weekend, and what better vehicle to cart loads of nasties around?
Started up first time, idle a little low to start but fine after about 5mins. Headed off the recycling point, a round trip of about 30km. On the way back I thought I'd give Bill his head and see what he could do.
Got to 100kmh :MileStone:
On part throttle and only slowed up cause there was a car infront. I believe he may have more in him!!!:cool:
Also took in a long steep hill, sat in 3rd and kept pace with the traffic, going from 30kmh to 60kmh. Pulled strongly, no signs of pinking and no lugging.
I'm pretty sold on the vacuum tuning.
Sunday - the boss wanted to go to the hardware store and take Bill, but she wanted me along 'just in case'. No worries says I, but nothing's going to go wrong, he only needs spark, air and fuel and he's got plenty of all 3.
And true to my word it all went off without a hitch, and a big grin on the boss' face.
Following morning and more chores - heading off to exchange a couple of things before work, had an hour before I needed to leave.
Started no worries, got to where I needed to go. Jumped back in Bill, hit the starter and zzzzzzzzz.
Battery good, spanner on the end of the starter motor was turning ok, but no starty:(
Hard up against the kerb, with a car in front, there was no way of moving him, so a call to the NRMA was made. They were great turned up within 30mins, but no options of fixing the zzzzzzzzz. So he towed me backwards up the hill and let go, bump started no worries, so said goodbye and toddled off home (only realised when I got there, that the crank handle was behind the front seat and I didn't need the NRMA afterall :whistling: )

Pulled the starter motor (after removing the manifolds!) and this is what I found
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/320.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10413402195/)
My refurbished starter motor had a busted spring
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/321.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10413541403/)
The above pic is what it came like - the spring was always in 2 pieces, and had just been wound apart to act like a spring, but with the violence of the starter rotation the springs had moved and wound themselves together. So happy this hadn't happened the previous day with the boss driving!!

Had a spare starter so I've fitted that, whilst this spring gets replaced. Just need to find a suitable spring compressor.....

Ozdunc

4th November 2013, 11:01 AM

Not much to report.
Finally got a couple of mins to replace the spring on the starter motor.

Went surprisingly easily.

First I needed to figure out a suitable spring compressor. Now, what I did was completely dodgy and I'm not recommending it to anybody.

Cause the spring was fractured in 1/2 I didn't need to compress the spring to remove the circlip, so getting that off was as easy as slipping a flat blade screwdriver in and levering it off whilst covering it to ensure the circlip didn't fly off into the nether regions of my garage.

To make the compressor I got a small length of 50mm by 5mm flat stock steel and drilled a 25mm hole in it. You could get away with smaller say 22mm but remember you need space to put the circlip on.
I then fitted the spring and end washer, laid the metal bar across the top and used 2 clamps to compress the spring. See below -
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1555.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10658583056/)

As you can see this is completely unsafe and you shouldn't do it.:imwithstupid:
The pressure needed to compress the spring is enough to bend 5mm steel (I actually bent it one way then the other to work harden it prior to be able to successfully compress the spring), and should the clamps have slipped off there would have been some degree of chaos present shortly after.
What I'd recommend is using at least 8mm steel or cutting 2- 5mm thick bits and doubling up, and drilling 2 holes to line up with the starter motor mounting holes and use bolts to compress the spring. Much, much safer.
(The photo is a mock up and the bar was much more bent than in the piccy)

Anyway OH&S lecture over, with the spring compressed enough to see the circlip grove, I popped the circlip on pretty easily, and undid the clamps. Job done.
Starter motor will now sit on the bench, until I can be bothered to remove the manifolds and headers to be able to refit. Hopefully that will be before the current motor karks it ;)

Ozdunc

18th November 2013, 12:04 PM

Since the last post I've been having merry fun with electrickery.

Fitted a set of these 3" lights
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/570.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10915835375/)

I've been running around with a set of Defender sized rear lights since I first got Bill, and wanted something a bit more original looking.
As you can see these 3" lights not quite as big as the 'original' lights (ie pre Defender lights) I took off, but as one of those didn't have a lens cover and I haven't been able to find out what lights they actually are, I went ahead and got some of these other ones.

Wired em in, switched em on, annnnnnd...

The fuse went and the wiring melted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/571.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10915972714/)

Took the lights with the melted wiring apart to find the earth connect had got hot enough to melt into the plastic carrier, and that the earth wire wasn't even attached to the terminal, just loosely looped through a hole in the terminal then twisted back on itself
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/572.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10915883906/)

I had twisted the rubber backing plate to ensure the small drainage hole was sitting at the bottom of the light and not at the top, and I suspect I'd caused a short between the running light and brake light +ve wires.

Anyway I stripped both fittings back down, soldered and heat shrunk the earth wires to the terminals and ran a couple of new earth wires from the lights to the chassis rather than relying on a connecting screw to earth to the tub.

Still had a small issue with the brake light not coming on, because the +ve feed to the base of the bulb would twist slightly when the bulb was inserted.

Anyway all working now, but if anyone else is thinking of buying or has installed these, it would be well worth stripping them down and ensuring they are wired to your satisfaction.:eek:

Other news - I picked up a new choke cable, ending up getting the Mini Cooper version for extra $ as it was the only one that locked. No way of incorporating the switch easily so I've deleted that for now.
Also found a matching switch and Panel Lights fob (my panel lights are wired into my side lights so come on with them), so I've wired my 12V connector to the new switch.:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/573.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10915980074/)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/574.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10915976734/)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/575.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/10915850315/)
Hmmm, must straighten my gauges...

Also, I changed the economy diaphragm and spring on my Zenith. Hard to tell whether its done much for the economy, but it's a lot more flexible than the hardened piece of leather I pulled off.

Also whilst driving around I started giving the engine a few more revs and holding them for longer as part of running it in. I noticing the ticking from the head stopped. The valves had all been done, but I wonder whether anything had been sticking.
How noisy are the rockers on 2.25 petrol? Should they be quiet, or a bit of chatter should be expected?

JDNSW

18th November 2013, 01:51 PM

How noisy are the rockers on 2.25 petrol? Should they be quiet, or a bit of chatter should be expected?

The valve gear should be inaudible over fan and induction noise, even when idling. But slightly incorrect valve clearance will tick, and if the roller cam followers are a bit out of round it can be impossible to get accurate clearance. Same applies if there are depressions worn in the rockers.

John

Ozdunc

18th November 2013, 02:38 PM

Thanks John,

I'll stick it down on my list to check over.

pk.hoarder

19th November 2013, 08:36 AM

Dunc,
Jaycar & other stores have microswitches like these (I inserted a picture of one here hope it works):

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/pk.hoarder-albums-landy+bits-picture4583-microswitch-productlarge-4159.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/pk.hoarder-albums-landy+bits-picture4583-microswitch-productlarge-4159.html

The lever can be bent a bit to rest against something to open or close it when it moves (you can choose open/close by how you wire it), maybe you can somehow use one with the Mini choke cable?

5A rating should be enough for a dashboard light.

Ozdunc

20th November 2013, 08:37 PM

Thanks for that mate.
I reckon I could get one of those to do the trick.

Ozdunc

13th February 2014, 06:12 PM

Been a while :)

Bill's been going very well. Just doing the odd run around and hauling stuff (how good is having a ute!).
Been getting about 17l/100 but a lot of that has been short trips and around town so I'm very happy. I used an iphone app Speed Box, its one of the few with an odo, to work out the fuel/kms.

Anyway to business drove to Bunnings to pick up some stuff this morning, got stuff and got back into Bill. turned the key and CLICK - nada.

Bum.

This time I remembered the crank handle - worked like a charm :cool:

This evening I tried to diagnose what the problem is. The big click on turning the key sounds like the solenoid is still working. The headlights stay bright. And the starter motor is earthed to the engine which is connected by a nice new fat cable to the battery. Batt is at 12.7V
Connecting a jump lead to the +ve and connecting to the stud on the starter side of the solenoid - nothing. Direct connection to the starter stud - nothing.
Hitting the dipstick handle with the jump lead on the way past - one hefty big spark that almost welded the jumped to the dipstick!!!

From that I reckon its an internal failure in the starter, but Dog know what. There was no symptoms of pending doom.

Next step will be to fit the starter motor with the replaced spring, but that means removing the intake manifold and extractors again.
Sigh......

chazza

13th February 2014, 07:54 PM

Next step will be to fit the starter motor with the replaced spring, but that means removing the intake manifold and extractors again.
Sigh......

Dunc,
I think I have read on here that the later reduction-drive starters from a Disco fit and they are smaller and more powerful.

It might save you the hassle of removing the manifolds in the future,

Cheers Charlie

JDNSW

14th February 2014, 06:10 AM

Probably a stuck brush or similar minor problem since there were no prior symptoms.

John

Ozdunc

14th February 2014, 11:12 AM

Thanks guys,

Charlie I've got another starter thats been refurbed recently, I just took it off when the main spring failed. I'd chucked this one one as a temporary measure, but like all temporary things they have a habit of staying longer than one intended:D
And whilst its extra work, its really only 20mins to undo the manifolds and throttle connection. Which I did this morning. The thought of having to do it was more onerous than the act itself! :)

John, thanks for the pointers. It'll give me somewhere to start when I open it up.

Ozdunc

14th February 2014, 06:02 PM

Well that was easy!
An hour all up. 20mins this morning to loosen the manifolds and centre pipe join. Then 40 mins this eve to swap out the starters, put the manifolds back, reconnect the throttle and electrics and turn the key.
How often does that happen? Usually you tell the boss "It shouldn't be long" and 5hours later you're still wrestling to tap out the seized bolt.
Happy days:D time for a :beer:

Ozdunc

27th February 2014, 02:28 PM

So I've done nothing with the old starter, except put it in a ziploc bag with some of those little anti moisture sacks, and stuffed it in a box of spares. :angel:

Not that I didn't want to do it, but I really need to rebuild the LC steering box first.
Then because stripping down a steering box and rebuilding it before I next needed the LC was impossible, I decided to upgrade Bill's headlights with some halogens. And since I was doing that I might as well upgrade the wiring set up as well.

So I ran some 50amp wiring to a 30amp auto-reset circuit breaker, then on to 2 30amp relays as the power source (30). Split the 2 wires coming from the floor switch. Used the switch side of the wire as the trigger feed on the relay (86), the headlight side of the wire attached to the normally open pin (87) and ran 2 new earth wires from pin 85.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/41.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12806278923/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/42.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12806182345/)

Removed the sealed beam head light and pulled out the old plug and wiring. Managed to save the rubber bung from the back cover and pass through a new H4 plug fitting. Spliced in the wiring, then plugged in the new halogen and reflector, and screwed it back in.
THe reflectors have a plain plastic lens, which is flat, so the front end looks a little different than the traditional convex shaped of the sealed beam.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/43.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12806189995/)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/44.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12806285753/)

They work great, much better light output and much whiter light as well. Highly recommended.

Talking of lights, whilst I was doing that, I noticed my new rear 3" lights weren't working properly. Only one tail light and no brake lights.
Turns out even after fixing up the wiring the actual holders are made of toffee. The spring pushing the contacts against the bulb had actually caused the bulb retaining pins to move though the plastic til the bulb actually fell out into the cover. :censored:
And on the other side the solder on the contacts had rotated so that the brake light wire no longer contacted.
These are Tiger brand from Britpart.
To get round this I used the bulb holder and wiring from the old 2" lights and the 3" rubber back and cover (luckily the retaining screw spacing for the covers are the same) and all is good with the world.
I can't remember the maker of the 2" light fittings (something beginning with P) but the quality is chalk and cheese, so this fix should last. :cool:

Finally after reading Jonno's thread, I bought a TM4. I haven't fitting it, as I'm having a hard time finding a place where I can see it without it looking incongruous. Maybe I'll need to fab up a little metal box for it...

Johnno1969

4th March 2014, 08:04 AM

Finally after reading Jonno's thread, I bought a TM4. I haven't fitting it, as I'm having a hard time finding a place where I can see it without it looking incongruous. Maybe I'll need to fab up a little metal box for it...

Yep, I understand what you mean. I did change my mind several times about where to fit it. I will be putting in a roof console and initially planned to hide it up there. In the end, the place I chose next to the steering column is pretty unobtrusive and it is easily read and the light from it will not be in my eyeline when driving.

Ozdunc

4th March 2014, 12:38 PM

Well its been about 500kms since the new engine went in, so time for a little check over.
Rocker cover off, tappets adjusted. They were mostly correct, a couple a smidge off and one out by 0.02.
Amazing what a difference even those small adjustments make, now it purrs like a kitten at idle.

Dropped the oil, very black and a few metal flakes. Not so sure about that, but I've never broken in a 45 year old engine before. Also the catch bowl wasn't clean so it might be metal flakes from the old engine or any other number of automotive sources. I'll run this new oil for another 500km and check again then.

Pulled out the plugs and did a compression test. V happy with the results. 160psi on 1 and 3, 157psi on 2 and 4.
This is 15-20 psi up on the old engine.

Plugs looked ok, possibly slightly lean but I think OK. Number 1had a tiny bit of oil on the underside of the curved bit of the electrode, so a small bit of blow by. I probably need to drive a bit harder now.

No 1 plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1106.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12918094743/)

No 2 plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1107.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12918098553/)

No 3 plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1108.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12918412734/)

No 4 plug
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1109.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/12918106593/)

Ozdunc

31st March 2014, 01:14 PM

Nothing much to report so feel free to skip this little entry.

Over the last couple of weeks, I've just done those little un-exciting jobs like tiding the wiring, putting it inside conduit and making sure there are no rub points.
Removing the dash to find out why the 12V outlet had suddenly stopped working, checking all the connections, having it all work nicely, then stop working again as soon as I screwed the dash back together again.
It works now, but I await Mr Lucas' return...

And then I found some always live wires just sitting in the chassis, awaiting some poor unsuspecting sod to lie in a puddle and lick the chassis.

Tightening the U-bolts at JNSW's suggestion has quietened the suspension considerably, but I need to fettle with the springs to stop them catching with the chassis mounts at the front.

Rego is due soon, so I adjusted the brakes ( another job that was surprisingly easy - I was expecting seized adjusters) and was checking the truck over only to find the rubber gaiter on the handbrake and the hi/lo lever are completely perished. They're only 2years old max, the rubber quality must be pants.
I've ordered some new ones, so has anyone got any tips to help preserve the rubber this time around???

Ozdunc

10th April 2014, 02:42 PM

Big week down at Bill's house, more for the event than amount of work done.

Another year of rego!!!:banana::twobeers::banana::ehigh5:

To be honest didn't need to do much.
The rear plate light had stopped working, but that was the rubber grommet holding the connector to the bulb had perished, A zip tie and a rub down with some wet'n'dry saw that working again.

Changed out the handbrake and hi/low lever gaiters. You can see below how perished they'd become in only 2 years. Hopefully the vulcanisation is better in this batch.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/927.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mXgLez)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/928.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mXgNTT)

New ones in place
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/929.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/mXiDAG)

Weird sitting in the garage watching your work get driven up onto a hoist and given the once over. The garage was pretty thorough in the underside inspection. I'm very glad I spent 5mins wiping down the sump/gearbox/transfer.

Also on Dave's suggestion I checked the filter on the brake booster. Well there wasn't really a filter just a crumbly mass of once-was-foam, and there seemed to be a missing return spring for the valve that allows air into the back of the main diaphragm when the brake pedal is pressed. So maybe that wasn't sealing properly and not allowing the vacuum in the non-piston side to build up fully.
Having expected just to need to clean the filter I had no parts on hand, so I improvised.
I cut some low density foam from a lump I had lying around, and used a spring from a bicycle wheel quick release.
Took it for a drive - and I didn't die.

Brakes were very good. I even got full lockup in an emergency stop at 50km/h.
There's a hiss as the brake is initially depressed, but I think thats because I can now hear the air rushing in to fill the vacuum behind the main diaphragm when the valve opens, there's certainly no ongoing hissing is if there were a vacuum leak.

Getting rego is cool, but getting your keys back with the mechanic saying 'that's in good condition.' is doubly cool :cool:

Cheers

Ozdunc

12th May 2014, 11:09 AM

Way back in the mists of time when I bought Bill, he had no vent levers on the bulkhead. The vents just flapped around merrily in the breeze, but summer waned and the cold winds started to blow from the south and again the season of the Ugg was upon us. I bought some vent levers and they did a mighty fine job of keeping the vents closed and the Ugg winds out of the cabin.
But there was a problem, the levers had no handles which meant the Princess was unable to open and close then without much wailing and gnashing of teeth.
Verily, there was trubble at' mill.

Trubblesome vent handles
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/882.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/dBYomj)

I set to finding a solution to to this problem, which after many years of searching I did - Sugru.
It a silicone based gunge that you can shape, bonds to almost anything and dries hard enough to sand, but with a rubbery texture.

So using a mold made from the plastic tube packaging that my new centre punch came in, I made some handles.

Here's the mold, after I'd removed it. Basically a 10-12mm plastic cylinder
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/883.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nifgmv)

Packed it with Sugru and pushed it over the lever arm
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/884.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nifjRY)

Left it for 3-4 days to cure, then cut off the mold
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/885.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nBvRcV)

And there you have it. A nice little handle bonded to the lever, much nicer to use:)

Ozdunc

12th May 2014, 11:11 AM

Hmm, not sure why the piccys are so small. Just did what I usually do but blimmin' Flickr changed its interface again!!!:mad:

Ozdunc

12th May 2014, 12:19 PM

Forgot to say Sugru is quite expensive.
Apparently you can make your own very easily, look up Oogoo on the Googlemachine.

Sugru dries harder than Oogoo, so I imagine there will times one will be better than the other.

Choice. Its a wonderful thing.

Ozdunc

9th July 2014, 02:18 PM

Finally got around to fitting the TM4 temperature watch dog.

The head unit I fitted underneath the 'dash' using velcro
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/854.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ohPdMF)

The engine temp sensor I fitted to the hole at the front of the engine that is used for the lifting hook, and the trans temp sensor to one of the studs holding the inspection plate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/855.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oe1Gu9)

After driving around I noticed the engine sensor was recording pretty low temps, which I think is caused by the overly efficient fan so I made up a shroud

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/856.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ofZQTu)

But this wasn't too successful as the bolt head is still getting full airflow, although it was now reading 56-57deg up from the low 50s.

I've since moved the engine sensor to as close to the temp sensor as possible and the trans sensor to a bolt lower down on the box (although I might move that again) Engine is reading 67 which I think is about 10 lower than actual (using a IR temp gun) and trans temp is sitting around 50

Fitted door tops and rubbers. Needed to swap out the felt runners on the drivers door, but that was surprisingly easy. I was expecting the screws to have rusted in but it was alright.

Also picked up the ultimate LR accessory
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/857.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ohPeC8)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/858.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oe1Hf7)

Johnno1969

9th July 2014, 04:47 PM

Terrific accessory! Best on the market. I used to have one of those. Did lots of miles and never let me down once.

Ozdunc

10th July 2014, 05:59 PM

Cheers mate.
She's pretty nifty.
Got her from the rescue home near by. She's a blinding little thing, I've got no idea why anyone would have dumped her.
Still their loss..

Ozdunc

12th August 2014, 10:28 AM

Got round to swapping out the broken tappet adjuster. I probably would have left it longer as it hadn't been too long since I'd set them last, but I realised that the head bolts needed a tweak since my engine was rebuilt with a copper gasket, and I'd bought a Gunson MicroAdjust Tappet Adjuster.

Drained the coolant (should have done this warm to open the thermostat).
Filter off, disconnect choke, dizzy vacuum advance and moved the choke cable and rocker vent tubing out the way.

Rocker cover off, then I loosened the smaller shaft to bracket bolts a 1/4 turn, then slackened the tappet adjusters to unload the valve springs, otherwise the shaft is still under load as you removed the fixing bolts and you risk damaging the threads.
I then cracked the head bolts a 1/2 turn in the reverse order to the tightening sequence in the manual. You'll need to remove the spark plugs to do this.

Once the head was de-tensioned I removed the 5 head bolts holding the rocker shaft assembly to the head, and the shaft to bracket bolts, and removed the rocker assembly.

I then needed to removed the sheared tappet adjuster. This took a bit of effort as where it had sheared had distorted the threads and it took a lot of twisting with some mole grips backwards and forwards to get it out. At one point I though I may need to dismantle the whole shaft to cut the tappet adjuster off, but thankfully it didn't come to that.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1008.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oFSequ)

Refitting took a bit of effort as the springs between the rocker arms had pushed everything out. I can see why its suggested to use the rocker cover to hold the assembly as it would stop this spring creep. Wasn't a option for me as I needed to be able to get at the broken adjuster.

I tightened the head bolts in sequence to 40lb ft, then the 5 shaft to bracket bolts to 18lb ft, head bolts to 55, then head bolts finally to 65lb ft, then re-checked the shaft to bracket bolts again.

Now I roughly adjusted up the tappets, then cracked out the Gunson adjuster thinking this was going to be a nice efficient way of doing things.
I was wrong.

It's basically a locknut socket with a handle with a spring loaded screwdriver coming down through the middle of the socket. You tighten up the tappet adjuster bolt until you hear a loud click, then back it off a set number of clicks until .10" clearance is reached. Then tighten the locknut. Easy.

Problem was I couldn't figure out what the set number of clicks should be. Everytime I tried to set the baseline the number of clicks to get .10" was different. I'm not stupid, I trained as an engineer, but for the life of me I couldn't figure out what could be wrong either with my usage or the tool itsself.
So I went back to the tried and trusted screwdriver, spanner and feeler gauge. Bingo.

I'd noticed a bit of coolant at the junction of the head and block in one spot, so rather than bolting it all back together, I turned the engine over on the starter to clear out any coolant that might have seeped into the cylinders whilst the head was de-torqued. (cue my observation about draining warm coolant).

Refit everything removed in the correct order, refill coolant, and start it up.
Ran beautifully, idle might be slightly fast when fully warm, but I'll look at that some other time.

Pulling plugs was good as it showed a nice uniform colour across all the plugs, the slight oil on the number 1 plug at 500kms was completely gone

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/08/1009.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oppBqY)

Next job is to fit the recon brake booster I've picked up, the old one is slowly getting more intermittent in its boosting.

Ozdunc

10th September 2014, 06:16 PM

Seems like this is turning into a monthly update. I really need to pull my finger out.

Anyway replaced the brake booster last night from this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1221.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9U6FD)

to this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/09/1222.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSpqdY)

Ooh shiny.

It was a nice easy swap. A good tip I found was to put gladwrap over the reservoir and screw the cap back on causing a partial vacuum and the brake fluid to drip out quite slowly.

The booster bled very easily and I had a nice pedal feel. Only thing is a slight leak from the threads round the bleed nipple (not the port) despite a good tweak on tightening. I'll give it over night for any more signs of weeping and if so I'll add a wrap of PTFE tape

chazza

10th September 2014, 07:29 PM

Only thing is a slight leak from the threads round the bleed nipple (not the port) despite a good tweak on tightening. I'll give it over night for any more signs of weeping and if so I'll add a wrap of PTFE tape

Nice car and nice Woofo Dunc!

If the bleeder leaks cobber, it needs fixing properly, as the brakes are a safety system. Take the bleeder out and examine the end of it, if there is a ridge or signs of corrosion try a new bleeder; if it is a ball type, replace the ball and give it a whack with a drift and hammer and then replace with another new ball,

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

10th September 2014, 07:42 PM

Thanks Charlie,

Will do.
This is a new nipple on a recon'd unit. I'd thought that since the fluid wasn't coming out the port the nipple had sealed and it was a small amount that was being forced out via the threads as it was screwed in.
Maybe new nipples ain't as good as old nipples :angel:

I can take the old bleeder nipple from the old booster that sealed OK.

Ozdunc

11th September 2014, 05:22 PM

Thanks for the advice Charlie.

Using the old nipple worked a treat, fitted better in the threads as well.

chazza

11th September 2014, 07:49 PM

... fitted better in the threads as well.

I have encountered a similar thing with flare-nuts as well ;) Makes me wonder if we have been sold poorly made parts, or ones with the wrong size thread but a similar pitch!

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

14th October 2014, 05:42 PM

So another month rolls round...

The brake booster is working wonderfully, assisting as it should. :)

Back in the midst of time I had my front springs reset, but quite quickly, despite being a much better ride, they sagged back down somewhat and I would hit the bumpstops sometimes.
So I bought 2 no2 military wrap leafs at the princely sum of $10 ea + postage. This was back in Oct 2012.

I have just got round to fitting them :D

First thing was to remove the front springs and separate the leaves
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/989.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pEmnst)
Having a MAPP gas torch was invaluable to bend the retainers out the way.

Once apart I gave all the leaves a scrub with wire wool

Below are the 2 new leaves as per LR spec 4.2mm
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/990.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/po9aoW)

Here you can see the difference in camber - new to the left
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/991.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pEAiyx)

And below all the leaves apart drying prior to a good greasing, old leaf at the top and the new leaf second from right.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/10/992.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/po6HCH)

What I've done is cut the wraps off the old leaf and put it back in the spring, so I have is effectively 2 no3 leaves and a 10pack spring either side. I also chamfered the leading edges of the springs where they hit the next spring to try to prevent ridging.

I've left the retainer clamps open and depending on how things go I may drill them out and put a bolt through them rather than heating them and bending them over again.

I've only just put them back on and bolted everything back up, but it's lifted up by at least 30mm. There's 110mm on the drivers side between the top of the axle plate and the chassis rail (ignoring the bumpstop as mine are trimmed a lot) and 105mm on the passenger side.

Bouncing up and down to settle every thing prior to re-tightening felt pretty supple still. I don't think the extra leaf will make the ride too harsh at all.

If it does I can always trim it and put it further down the pack.

JDNSW

14th October 2014, 07:43 PM

Make sure the bolt type wrap at the front end of the spring does not interfere with the track rod or drag link. On mine it would, but I think the position of the wrap varies slightly.

John

Ozdunc

15th October 2014, 09:56 AM

Cheers John,
they look to clear but I haven't done a lock to lock test, or fully cycled the suspension yet, but thanks for the reminder as I may not have remembered until the 'clonking' started happening

Dinty

17th October 2014, 03:26 PM

Well I would not have tried 'Mapp' gas on the wrap over retainers, I do have Mapp gas gear x 2, but only use it for soft soldering, I do have Oxy/Acetylene but I'm reluctant to use it often, and I do have a full set of springs that need taking apart and cleaning, so Thank You for the tip on the 'Mapp' gas, sorry about your thread hi-jack, cheers Dennis :angel:
ps I do have a couple of sets of new springs and having fitted a set of them to a Series 2A 109 I did find the bolt type retainer fouled the drag link, so I removed the bolt and bent over the tab,,

Ozdunc

21st October 2014, 11:56 AM

Well I finally managed to go for a drive. There's a definite improvement in the ride - its not hitting the bumpstops over speed humps at walking pace like it did before and its generally less 'jouncy' (technical term - jiggly and bouncy at the same time:angel:)
I still need to cycle the suspension to check any potential clangs with the tie rods and the clamps, which from John and Dennis' comments I suspect there will be. Then I suppose I decide whether to bend the clamps back over or cut them off a few mm proud of the top of the spring - that would stop the rotating but leave them more able to droop on extension.

Its currently sitting at 100mm DS and 105mm PS from flat on the axle to the chassis ignoring bumpstop.
Anyone got an idea what is stock height? (I've seen it somewhere but bugga'd if I can find it again)

Ozdunc

23rd October 2014, 02:07 PM

Right after cycling the suspension through pretty much its full range lock to lock, the clamp tabs do hit.

The inner most tab on the front clamp on the driver's side contacts the track rod end attached to the pitman arm on full right under full compression.

On the PS the trackrod hits both the clamp tabs on the clamp just in front of the axle on full left turn under full compression. Actually the trackrod connects with the spring itself under full compression.

Now I need to make the decision to bend the affected tabs down or just cut them off

chazza

23rd October 2014, 08:14 PM

I had the same problem on mine and cut them off.

A possible solution is to have the springs hot-reset, which will lift the chassis higher and hopefully give more clearance,

Cheers Charlie

JDNSW

23rd October 2014, 08:23 PM

Ozdunc

24th October 2014, 06:09 PM

I had the same problem on mine and cut them off.

A possible solution is to have the springs hot-reset, which will lift the chassis higher and hopefully give more clearance,

Cheers Charlie

Have you had any problems with the leaves rotating with the clamps off?

Problem with lifting the chassis ( and I think I'm a bit over stock now) is that with standard shocks you lose downward wheel movement, so you end up replacing shocks, lowering the bumpstops to compensate for the longer shock on compression and before you know it you're driving round with a 6" lift and 35s.
That's the other car:p

chazza

25th October 2014, 11:21 AM

Have you had any problems with the leaves rotating with the clamps off?

I only cut the top off the one that was fouling the steering rod and my car isn't running yet; however; Isuzurover removed the ones on his car to allow more drop. I recommend reading this thread here; especially what Ben says http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-iii/48812-parabolic-leaf-springs.html

You are correct about the standard dampers limiting travel; isuzurover recommends dampers from a coil spring suspension, if a swag of leaves are removed,

Cheers Charlie

Ozdunc

22nd January 2015, 10:13 AM

After a long while something needed doing on Bill.
He had a 3 week layup over Xmas and on my return I noticed the rear hub leaking from the drive flange.
I had a gasket and felt washer lying around so pulled the drive flange (after lifting the wheel high enough to stop any diff oil dripping out).
Well found the reason for the leak - there was no gasket! No idea how it had managed to be leak free for so long. Replaced the gasket and the splined felt washer only as the hub had no play and felt good when rotating.

Even though i lifted the wheel I still had a bit of oil leak out so I topped up the diff oil. Whilst under the truck I thought I'd check the transfer and gearbox.
The transfer needed about 5-600ml of EP90, but the gear box was high and came flooding out.
There must be something acting as a pump to push the gear oil between the boxes, as usually any oil going between the boxes goes from gearbox to transfer as the transfer is lower.

Rather than pull the boxes at the moment, cause nothings leaking, I'm thinking of linking the gearbox and transfer filler holes with a bit of hose to pipe the oil back where it should belong.
Does any one know what thread size the filler plugs are?

Ozdunc

2nd February 2015, 02:25 PM

Well, I think the filler plugs are 3/4 BSPT, but that little project is on hold whilst I sort other things.

The drivers door top has been a little wiggly ever since I fitted it for winter. To be honest its knackered, and well past its serving date.
Anyway it finally split and has been splaying out giving a good 20mm gap at the top front corner, so this weekend I thought I'd patch it up

Quality previous repairs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1030.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r2hMvo)

The final failure point
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1031.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qJP2Eq)

The bog dug out
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1032.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q5n5p7)

Not much to weld to
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1033.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q5zEo4)

Patch shaped to fit
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1034.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qZ5yqf)

Scabby welding
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1035.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qJPeaQ)

I've never welded thin rusty metal like this and found it pretty hard to get the welder set up. The lowest setting wasn't getting any penetration, and the next setting was blowing holes, plus it doesn't help that what you're welding to varies in thickness as you're moving around.

So its definately not the prettiest job, but it does seem to have done the trick. Doors sitting flush and not wobbling.
All good til the next bit gives way :D

Ozdunc

19th February 2015, 10:07 AM

Got fed up with the windscreen washers missing the glass so decided to do something about it. Out with the Sugru and I made a little platform to tilt the spray head back a bit.

Holding the spray head in place whilst the Sugru sets
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/337.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rfyCwb)

Works a treat and is pretty unobtrusive.

Next I decided to try and find the source of the ticking from my engine, so I bought a engineers stethoscope.
GET ONE OF THESE! They are magic. So much better than using a bit of dowel or a long screw driver as both ears are on the job and you don't get the intrusion of external noise.

I still havn't found the cause of the tick, but I do know its not tappets, cam or valve related. Its from the front (drivers left side) of the engine and it seems to be external to the engine.

Whilst I was prannying around with that I stuck the vacuum gauge back on just to confirm nothing was amiss, and it isn't. Its marvellous. But I did think the idle was a bit high, so I attached a daggy tacho (via the bulkhead vent and bonnet gap:cool:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/338.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qYeuMH)
With showed the idle was fine at 550rpm, my ears must be off.

Anyway went for a drive and the tacho was saying things that my ears weren't believing - the engines making a racket and I'm only doing 3000rpm. (you know what's coming don't you:D )
Yep, went home and checked the tacho setting and... it was set to 6 cylinder, so its reading 2/3 lower than the actual rpms - no wonder the idle sounded fast!
Now on the proper settings, with the idle actually 500rpm it sounds so quiet, sometimes I thought I'd stalled changing gears.
I've kept the tacho attached for the mo, as its really nice to drive off rpms and really get a feel for what the engine can do. I think I was babying it a little before.
I think the next project will be to fit a prettier tacho, a voltmeter and dash vacuum gauge.

TTFN

JDNSW

19th February 2015, 10:27 AM

......
I think the next project will be to fit a prettier tacho, a voltmeter and dash vacuum gauge.

TTFN

Many years ago I fitted mine with a 2" tacho next to the ventl lever straight in front of the driver. very useful for speed checks.

I don't have a vacuum gauge, but do have voltmeter and oil pressure on a sub-panel next to the speedo.

John

Ozdunc

1st March 2015, 06:19 PM

Well the wiper switch went and died on me. In the pouring rain obviously:D

Luckily I had a spare headlight switch kicking about, so I set about replacing the switch.

Whilst the dash was out I finally got round to replacing the voltage regulator for the fuel sender and temp sensor. I'd paid a bit more to get an OEM one but it turned up in a little blue box so possibly i didn't get what I'd paid for.
Here's the original
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1494.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r6HJqZ)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1495.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rkSSwJ)

And here's the replacement

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1496.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r4Rndc)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1497.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r4RmK8)
They are very similar bar the name stamped on the rear and the back mounting plate being attached upside down.
Anyway I decided it wasn't worth the few dollars difference to kick up a fuss and decided to fit it.
It works anyway. I now have a working fuel sender that shows when the tank is full - never happened before:D

Also replaced all the brake fluid, used one of those bits of hose with the non-return valve and it was a easy as...
Apart from flicking brake fluid all over myself taking it off one of the nipples.:angel:

Finally the next project turned up in the post
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1498.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qroCJ8)

Ozdunc

12th March 2015, 04:20 PM

I am now a fully fledged boy racer:burnrubber:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1082.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/quUdzj)

Progress is being made on the other dials, but you'll have to wait for piccys :angel:

Johnno1969

15th March 2015, 10:12 PM

I like the sound of the engineer's stethoscope. D'you reckon you could send me a PM or something with a little info on how much/where to get 'em/brands etc etc?

Cheers,

John

Ozdunc

17th March 2015, 03:01 PM

PM sent John.

In case anyone else wants to know - they are a Stanley Mechanics Stethoscope. I got them from Supercheep in the tool section where valve compressors and whatnot live. I think about $25-30.

Ozdunc

17th March 2015, 03:30 PM

Project 'Gauge' is coming along

I started off with a broken Smiths gauge set out of a Jag 4.2 that I picked up for 10 quid at an auto jumble back in Blighty last year

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/840.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDhAfk)

As you can see it was missing the centre clock, and when I took it apart to look at the state of the electrics in the gauges themselves the printed circuitry on the rear delaminated, so it was fairly toast.

To round it off, the gauge fronts were molded with the surround, whilst the gauges them selves attached to the rear plastic plate, which meant taking them off the surround and using them individually was going to mean fabbing up some casing and a platform to sit them on.
So I did what any sane person would do - chucked it in a corner and left it.

On to today. I've got all my shiny new gauges but all the bevels are different shapes and different colours. So picking up the old 4.2 gauge front I realise the bevels will come off if I unpick the glue and bend off the backing tabs.
Pulling of the new gauge surrounds and a bit of trimming. Voila!! From silver to black.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/841.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDhfYL)

Then I chopped up a hack saw into a very narrow blade and cut out the gauge fronts on the 4.2 surround

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/842.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDhk3Y)

I was contemplating leaving the surround whole and having a couple of dummy gauges in the 2 spots I wasn't going to use, but then looking at how to mount it in the cab I decided to cut it down to 3 gauges wide and sit it in the gap between the dash and the steering column.

I've mounted the gauges using Sugru, as there wasn't a lip for the bezel to sit against once the gauge fronts had been removed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/843.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDnPBe)

It's holding very well. I've tried to separate them from the surround, but I can't do it, so I think they'll hold.

Anyway here's the finished product

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/844.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rDhAhK)

Still need to mount the unit and connect up the gauges but that's for another time...

Ozdunc

7th April 2015, 03:52 PM

Well Operation Gauge has been put on hold as several other things have come to light.

I've finally got the gauges fitted
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1089.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rZQmha)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1090.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rFvm7D)

But they need connecting up.
The eagle-eyed amongst you will notice that the gauges have swapped places, I couldn't get the vacuum gauge in against the steering plate. Even with the gauges swapped it was a very tight squeeze, but it allowed me to straighten the sawn edge and level the oil gauge which was in slightly tilted so the Smiths name wasn't quite horizontal which would have bugged me.

First issue that has delayed Operation Gauge was oil dripping from the bellhousing!!! At first I thought the dreaded main seal, but the smell was all wrong and the oil was clean, so it had to be coming from the gearbox.
Opening the filler plug the oil level was high again and the transfer low.
My options are - open the box and prevent the bearing that is rotating from doing so with a bit of bearing fit, or join the 2 filler plugs with a bit of pipe.

Being the slacker that I am ( and not having anywhere near the time to strip a gearbox) option B was implemented
2 1/2" BSP to 1/2" barb brass fittings were purchased along with a length of fuel hose.

At transfer
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1091.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rHg87Q)

At gearbox
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1092.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rHnRWe)

You can see the hose is pretty close to the exhaust, so I made a small heat shield
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1093.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rHeP7G)

It makes a small difference enough to keep the hose temp under 100deg (the exhaust is about 145 at that point, but I've only run it for small distances at the moment. I'll either try and get a 90deg BSP/barb fitting or sleeve the fuel pipe with a small section of silicone hose.
Anyway no more leaks from the bellhousing:BigThumb:
So far:angel:

Anyway rego is coming up so its time to tackle the leaky sump, but on Bill's last voyage prior to draining the oil I came to a halt, felt a small pop/thump through the pedal, and the brakes stayed on. Couldn't drive forward. I reversed out of the way, got out the jack and raise the front wheels one at a time, both turned no problems.
I had the dog with me and some frozen food in the tray so I decided to make a dash for it with binding brakes as it was only a km or so home.
Start back up and drove off only to have the brakes work perfectly!!!

So thats got me worried, I don't like intermittent problems esp of the braking kind, so I'll give the brakes an overhaul.
I've ordered new pistons, pads and springs, the booster is new, maybe I should get a master as well??

Anyone got any ideas what might have caused the braking issue? Or how to test for a faulty master?

JDNSW

7th April 2015, 07:25 PM

Most likely cause for the sticking brakes is a sticking master cylinder. This is likely to be due to a corroded bore or swollen cups. Reversing will have freed to shoes and given a little extra back pressure in the line to free the master cylinder. (There are other possibilities, including a similarly sticking wheel cylinder, or oil on a brake shoe)

John

Ozdunc

9th April 2015, 10:12 AM

Thanks John, I think the MC is the only thing that hasn't been touched in the last few years - the brakes were rebuilt at the wheels just before I bought it, so it seems a logical place to start.

Is it worth going for a TRW/Lucas MC over a Bearmach one? Happy to pay the extra for better quality, but would be peeved if its only a bit of badge engineering out of the same factory.

JDNSW

9th April 2015, 03:51 PM

......
Is it worth going for a TRW/Lucas MC over a Bearmach one? Happy to pay the extra for better quality, but would be peeved if its only a bit of badge engineering out of the same factory.

For what it is worth, what I did last time I had to replace a brake master cylinder on my 2a was to get the old one stainless steel sleeved and overhauled. Haven't installed it yet as the temporary one is still going.

John

Ozdunc

10th June 2015, 02:41 PM

Been meaning to write this down for a while so this might be a long one :)

Back at the beginning of April, my leaky sump became too much for my OCD, so it was time for a oil change and a new gasket.
I got a Payen gasket which is still paper but about 1mm thick instead of the standard thin one.
Drained the oil out, no bits (yay!), cleaned the old gasket off the sump and gave it a clean up

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/642.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sMBCXv)

Dropping a straight edge over the sump and the engine facing showed no noticeable warping.

I then decided to make the gasket leakproof with 4 coatings of Hydromar Blue. one on the sump on on either side of the gasket and one on the engine mating surface.
So far this had taken about 20mins to do once the oil was out.

Then came the mission - refitting the sump! What a bloody palaver that was. Dunno why, but trying to support the sump whilst feeding bolts through the pan and into the block whilst not disturbing the gasket took me nearly 3hours and almost drove my wife to distraction with all the swearing coming from under the car:wasntme:

And it still :censored: leaks.

Under the engine looking up

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/643.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sMq895)

There Bill sat for a week or so until I could face doing some more. Changing the filter made me pull my finger out on completing the gauges as I need to plumb in the oil pressure hose to the pressure switch outlet

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/644.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sKhPWE)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/645.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sMC2wc)

If you look carefully you can see the hose exiting from the middle of the brass adapter.

I drilled out an existing hole in the firewall to 1/2" and fed the oil pressure pie, vacuum gauge pipe, plus tacho feed through.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/646.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sv3xww)

Here is the birds nest of wiring and piping to run a pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, voltmeter and tacho. It doesnt look this bad really, I stuck the camera up behind the guages.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/634.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u3kuJL)

As you can see I had a slight weeping of the oil piping, but nipping up the brass joiners sorted that

Ozdunc

10th June 2015, 02:54 PM

Then it was on to the brakes.

I decided to go for a new MC.

This was nice and easy to fit and didn't need the pedal removing

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/641.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u5igAu)

Ignore the slight fluid where the hose fits in, the photo was taken just after fitting.
Having the remote booster made bleeding very simple, as I only had to bleed as far as the nipple on that, rather than all 4 wheels. Which was great as it was only a couple of months since I'd replaced all the fluid.

I'm still having some intermittent pressure coming back through the brake pedal, which I think is vacuum related, but to be sure I removed all the drums to look at the condition of the pads and the wheel cylinders.
Pads and WCs were great but the drums are quite badly scored, so I'll be getting new ones all round.

But current set up is good enough to pass rego with flying colours once again :banana::banana::banana:

I've also investigated the pedal pressure and I think it was a slight leak on the hose from the booster to the manifold, possible where I tee'd into it for the vacuum gauge feed.
All seems to working fine now and the booster passes all the integrity tests, so hopefully I'm done until the drums arrive.

crackers

10th June 2015, 05:29 PM

Here is the birds nest of wiring and piping to run a pressure gauge, vacuum gauge, voltmeter and tacho. It doesnt look this bad really, I stuck the camera up behind the guages.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/634.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/u3kuJL)

I'm going to call you on this. Where is the 'bird's nest' and what is there to feel embarrassed about? Mate, if I can get my wiring that neat, I'd be ecstatic.

As for the leaky sump, you might be facing issues around the sump holes themselves from some gorilla who's overtightened things. As for your dramas getting it back on, simply applying any sort of goop automatically makes things a billion times harder to put back together - it's a subset of Sod's Law and has no rational reason (see my signature). :angel:

Cannon

10th June 2015, 07:20 PM

Bird's Nest?????

you're joking aren't you?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/631.jpg

Ozdunc

11th June 2015, 05:03 PM

Ha ha. Alright its not that bad, but its visible slightly. Unlike behind the dash where it really is a bird's nest - but out of sight out of mind :D

Ozdunc

17th September 2015, 04:24 PM

After putting in the voltmeter and running around I could see that the info I gleaned from the interwebz about the Lucas 14AC later models having an internal reg was complete tosh. That combined with a tired old battery made longer journeys a bit of a lotto to see whether Bill had enough juice for the return trip. So I decided to fit the new pattern 17ACR.

Well didn't this open a full can of worms.

Trial fitting onto the Series 3 alternator bracket the 14AC was bolted to
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/447.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wzaNiE)

left the alternator either hitting the engine mount
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/448.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xwbCh6)

or too far forward
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/449.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xwMcqD)

So I went to the old engine and scavenged the old dynamo mount which had been used to mount a 15AC
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/450.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xu9G35)

This still left the alternator hitting the engine mount, as the 15AC has a big cut away at the back that the 17ACR doesn't have.

Here you can see the differences in the alternators, from the top 14AC, 15AC 17ACR

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99743&stc=1&d=1443094032

And specifically the cut away in the 15AC
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/451.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/x7mH3b)

So there was nothing for it but to fab up a bracket from 6mm plate and 75x50 RHS tube
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/452.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xLLjms)

Attached to the 17ACR
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/453.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y4nuWg)

Compared with the 14AC and OEM bracket
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/454.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y23z2G)

In position (after a few fittings to space fore and aft)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/455.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xLL8Z5)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/09/456.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y4nq14)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/77077238@N08/20853426230/

Wired it up and the first job was to head to the battery place for a new one.
Starts by breathing on the key, and a noticeable improvement in the headlights.

Took at while but very happy with the results :cool:

Ozdunc

22nd September 2015, 12:35 PM

Hmm. Not sure what going on with the photos at Flickr.

I set them to public, any one got any hints?

Ozdunc

22nd September 2015, 05:35 PM

Super weird. If you click on the photos you can see them in another tab, but thats a bit irritating. I'll try and sort it out as soon as I can

Phil B

23rd September 2015, 05:32 AM

Thanks for the write up
I am considering this mod and now I know what is required
Phil

Ozdunc

9th November 2015, 10:15 AM

Reporting back on the alternator upgrade.

Its definitely worthwhile. I can run halogens and wipers without dimming at standstill, and it might be my imagination but Bill seems to be running smoother, certainly starts quicker.

About a month ago, I replaced the brake drums. Comparing between old and new, my old ones were way past runout and should have been binned about a decade ago.
I kept the current pads as they had very little wear, but was prepared to swap if I was getting any pulsing, etc.
All good and brakes work great after a few trial runs the get the adjusters dialed in.

I also bought the correct wiper set up, bar the centre wiper tube which is unobtainium ( but probably very fabbable :) ). The decision now is whether to fit the motor and wipers now or to hold off until after I've painted...

Finally my rear stop/tail lights are driving me mad, now the weather is getting hotter the plastic bulb holders are distorting and the bulbs are falling out.
I've done a bit of fettling trying different holders but they all seem to suffer from the same problem.
Next time I'll try trimming the spring to provide less push against the bulb, and hopefully that will stop the holder distorting.