View Full Version : Urgent Hlp Pls - Manual Unlock Sequence D2 00
landyprincess
24th April 2012, 11:06 AM
Hi,
I hope you are well.
I am in a sorry state of affairs and urgently need to get this sorted so really help someone can help
My key fob is stuffed in that....
1. I need a new battery, pressing a button (lock) does not engage the usual red light indicator.
2. The other day the rubber button to disarm the alarm fell out, thinking nothing of it... I should of....
3. I am missing what looks like a micro switch from the on the circuit board where the missing button is - grrrrrrr
So, aside from the above - I had read a while ago that there is a manual unlock sequence that can be performed as well as having read this link here Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/alarm.html), however that relates only to a PS3 right???
OR, is the EKA procedure the same across the board.??
I have a 2000 D2.
Also, in my owner manual - exactly where would I find the security code?? I have a couple of plastic label type stickers with barcodes as well as a silver small elongated round tag with some numbers punched onto it - there are 4 digits in total... would that be the security code?
I don't have my RAVE CD (lost a while ago - ugh) ....
At present:
1. I can unlock/lock the vehicle manually with the key.
2. Doing this, the red indicator on the dash flashes profusely and after about 5 seconds slows down flashing considerably
3. If I open the door the alarm sounds and inserting the key into the ignition does nothing to stop the alarm....
I'd be really appreciative is someone could confirm what the manual unlock sequence is for my D2 00 - or PM me if you can....
Also, does anyone know where I can purchase the micro switches from. I have a link to one in the UK but would prefer closer to home...
Thanks,
Lp
Scouse
24th April 2012, 11:20 AM
Also, in my owner manual - exactly where would I find the security code?? I have a couple of plastic label type stickers with barcodes as well as a silver small elongated round tag with some numbers punched onto it - there are 4 digits in total... would that be the security code?
It's not recorded in the owners manual but it may be recorded on your radio security card if you have a LR card, not a Eurovox one. Chances are you just have the Eurovox card though.
The small tag will just have the key cut code.
Call a LR dealer, give them your VIN & they might give you the code over the phone. You may need proof of ownership so they might not help - worth a try though.
The EKA sequence differs slightly from models but the procedure is in the owners handbook.
michaelp
24th April 2012, 12:30 PM
Hi
you will still need your 8 digit EMERGENCY ACCESS CODE
But here is the procedure if you get it
alpick
24th April 2012, 12:47 PM
if you know / can find someone with a nanocom it can read your EKA
good luck
joe.woods
24th April 2012, 02:17 PM
I had a similar problem, I changed the battery then used a paper clip opened up and shorted the micro switch which opened the door and let me drive my D2, I bought some micro switches from the UK and had them soldered on...works a treat, I have some spare switches if you like send me your postal address and I'll have some switched posted to you.
Good Luck Joe:D
landyprincess
24th April 2012, 02:45 PM
Hi All,
Everyone... .sincerely, thank you sooooo very much for your help and the information you have provided me with.... (I have my EKA code from a very helpful member :cool:)
Before I commence any sequencing I have a couple of dumb questions!! :eek:
1. Is there a certain length of time i need to wait BEFORE each turn. For example if the first number is 7.... how many seconds do I need to wait before turning the key 7 times - is there such a thing as too quick for the brains in the vehicle to register 7 quick times?
2. I called Jcar and whilst they do have some micro switches he couldn't tell me whether they had them specifically for the landrover but to bring the fob in so I could show them - has anyone purchased any micro switches from Jcar before?
3. Do the micro switches 'really' need to be soldered on? From looking at the other micro switch I can see.... looks like it's just clipped around the edges.... what location specifically would the solder go on? Is anyone able to share some insight please...
Joe- thanks, I may take you up on your offer is the above does't work out for me... i'll pm you either way...
Thanks again, appreciate the help :-D
Lp
Scouse
24th April 2012, 03:17 PM
There's no set time as all you're doing is activating microswitches in the door lock.
Jaycar are usually pretty good with things like this but it will need to be soldered in (from the back of the board, the side you can't see).
landyprincess
24th April 2012, 06:19 PM
There's no set time as all you're doing is activating microswitches in the door lock.
Jaycar are usually pretty good with things like this but it will need to be soldered in (from the back of the board, the side you can't see).
Thanks for clarifying that. Of the solder, can it be just your everyday regular solder or does it have to be some kind of 'special' solder?
I've also just tested out the unlock code/sequence and got it right on the second attempt. Not too sure what the minimum wait time is, I waited 20 odd minutes between the wrong and correct attempts. No husband in sight with our eldest though and my fob / micro switch ... his fj40 has now broken down (dead battery apparently) - it's been one of those days!!
Of the replacement buttons that I require for my fob.... I can either buy a new housing/fob with a blank key (which I don't need) or just the buttons.... my intent if I went down the path of a new housing was to just put in my circuit board given nothing would need to be programmed...
If I go down the path of new housing - other than it needing to be the correct one, is there anything particular I need to be cognisant of?
If I go down the path of just the new buttons... is there any preferred material (silicon vs rubber) etc?
Thanks again for the insight and help everyone, again appreciated :-D
Cheers,
Lp
Pedro_The_Swift
24th April 2012, 06:45 PM
Glad to see it only took 2 goes:D
There have been a LOT of posts on replacement bodys/blades/rubbers,
seems like there is good Valeo stuff on ebay now,, (if I remember correctly:p)
did you give him hell about the battery??;)
Freddofrog42
24th April 2012, 06:50 PM
A quick tip to help with deteriorating buttons on the keys is to wrap the housing with self-amalgamating tape - you can get it from Jaycar etc. Basically it's a bit like black insulating tape but it actually melds together to form a rubbery membrane which protects the buttons. Unlike isulating tape it stays flexible and doesn't have sticky edges - think of it as a bit like a bike inner tube in feel.
Has worked for me for a couple of years now but I applied it before the buttons actually fell out...
Another tip talking about locks etc and Jaycar is to spray some Lithium Grease into the ignition lock as that helps lubricate it before it breaks up totally - again mines been fine for a couple of years since doing that.
Both the above are common Disco 2 issues...
landyprincess
24th April 2012, 07:47 PM
Glad to see it only took 2 goes:D
There have been a LOT of posts on replacement bodys/blades/rubbers,
seems like there is good Valeo stuff on ebay now,, (if I remember correctly:p)
did you give him hell about the battery??;)
Hi Pedro,...
"the rooster came in flustered so I didn't bother ruffling his feathers" :angel:
...i'll scour the search function for suggestions on what others have used :-D
Cheers,
Lp
landyprincess
24th April 2012, 11:06 PM
Hi all,
i'm in need of some further clarification / help please...
I've just inspected the circuitry and that of the micro switch that hubby got from jcar (best one they recommended size wise, albeit it's higher than the original tho)... and I have a couple of questions:
1. On the circuit board (pls refer photo), you can see the micro switch intact (top right) and the broken one (bottom/middle) where the top piece appears to have separated from the base - is this normal? i.e. is the micro switch manufactured to do this?
2. Upon reeeeeally close inspection, it appears as though the solder on either side of the micro switch isn't coming into contact with the switches sides - therefore I dont know how it is fixed on... any suggestions on how to remove the broken micro switch please?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks :-D
Lp
btw - Pedro - Valeo.... is that an after market brand? re your comment ...do you mean the "range" or "brand" itself available on ebay?
Bradtot
24th April 2012, 11:29 PM
Lp your microswitch in the pic at the bottom has fallen apart the 2 small silver bits each end of the broken one are the solder bits that have to be heated with a very fine soldering iron and then the switch can be removed while the solder is melted.
Did you take what we see in the picture to jaycar so they can match up the switches as there are hundreds of the them.
You really need the switches to be the same or almost the same.
you could tempoarily remove the switch and solder 2 fine wires that you can just short together to make it work until you can get the correct switch.
if I was in your neck of the woods I would do it for you and I may even have some of those switches , but I really need to see them in front of me to identify corretly.
I used to do these sorts of repairs for a living.
Brad:)
landyprincess
25th April 2012, 12:01 AM
Lp your microswitch in the pic at the bottom has fallen apart the 2 small silver bits each end of the broken one are the solder bits that have to be heated with a very fine soldering iron and then the switch can be removed while the solder is melted.
Did you take what we see in the picture to jaycar so they can match up the switches as there are hundreds of the them.
You really need the switches to be the same or almost the same.
you could tempoarily remove the switch and solder 2 fine wires that you can just short together to make it work until you can get the correct switch.
if I was in your neck of the woods I would do it for you and I may even have some of those switches , but I really need to see them in front of me to identify corretly.
I used to do these sorts of repairs for a living.
Brad:)
Thanks Brad, I got it off in the end by gently heating both those ends. Hubby did take the complete fob into jcar (I even dismantled it for him in fear of 'someone' breaking it while trying to open it!!).... the guy said the replacement micro switch was the best one size wise they had. Perhaps Perth is different to Melb stores?? - or maybe it's just where we live! - eitherway....
The height doesn't appear to be an issue nor its width as all is aligning up there. The current issue I am having is getting the prongs on the jcar one to solder TO the points on the circuit board. The flex is beading up and I can get it to fix to the jcar points just not to both. Which makes me wonder if I am using the correct flex - it's electrical solder (silver bearing rosin core solder)?? It's what we had in the tool box...?? any suggestions??
I'm sure there is a fine art to it,... is there something I am doing wrong?
Thanks,
Lp
landyprincess
25th April 2012, 12:28 AM
Problem is now fixed... soldered and it works!...
Thanks everyone for your help, it has been greatly appreciated :-D
Cheers,
Lp
Pedro_The_Swift
25th April 2012, 07:09 AM
Good onya Lp:clap2::BigThumb:
Valeo is the brand of the original fob,,
There is something in The Good Oil
second page I think,,
Scouse
25th April 2012, 09:37 AM
Problem is now fixed... soldered and it works!...
Thanks everyone for your help, it has been greatly appreciated :-D
Cheers,
LpGreat work. Shall we ad you to the 'recommended repairers' list now?
**Attention everybody: for any D2 remote repairs, contact 'landyprincess'**
:):)
landyprincess
25th April 2012, 06:00 PM
Great work. Shall we ad you to the 'recommended repairers' list now?
**Attention everybody: for any D2 remote repairs, contact 'landyprincess'**
:):)
Thanks Scouse/Pedro...
I think i'll leave it to the professionals that do this for a living, after all - it's really not my area of expertise and fingers crossed it holds for some time until I need to buy a new unit when it comes time to part with Lp ... landrovers for some reason are not 'popular' in Canada from what I can gather (Chev/Dodge/GMC seem to reign supreme!) :-o
Cheers,
Lp
worane
15th November 2012, 01:29 PM
When I bought my D2 1999, the ignition switch was very difficult to place the key in (dry).
I squirted a small amount of Inox spray into it and it works a treat.
I am told that locksmiths use this instead of graphite these days.Just thought this may help someone.
Sharkee
15th November 2012, 09:27 PM
When I bought my D2 1999, the ignition switch was very difficult to place the key in (dry).
I squirted a small amount of Inox spray into it and it works a treat.
I am told that locksmiths use this instead of graphite these days.Just thought this may help someone.
Mine at times is impossible to get in, I wonder if this is what mine needs.
schuy1
15th November 2012, 10:00 PM
Mine at times is impossible to get in, I wonder if this is what mine needs.
I think thats an age thingy
:Rolling:
Sharkee
15th November 2012, 10:04 PM
:lol2::clap2:I guess I walked right into that one. Hey I'm tired:D
Cheers mate:lol2:
Steve
bsperka
15th November 2012, 10:37 PM
A quick tip to help with deteriorating buttons on the keys is to wrap the housing with self-amalgamating tape - you can get it from Jaycar etc. Basically it's a bit like black insulating tape but it actually melds together to form a rubbery membrane which protects the buttons. Unlike isulating tape it stays flexible and doesn't have sticky edges - think of it as a bit like a bike inner tube in feel.
Has worked for me for a couple of years now but I applied it before the buttons actually fell out...
Another tip talking about locks etc and Jaycar is to spray some Lithium Grease into the ignition lock as that helps lubricate it before it breaks up totally - again mines been fine for a couple of years since doing that.
Both the above are common Disco 2 issues...
Don't use a sticky spray like Lithium. Get a dry glide, teflon type spray, otherwise dust will collect in the grease. Also, Whitworths sell self amalgamating tape a lot cheaper than Jaycar.
bsperka
15th November 2012, 10:43 PM
Hi All,
3. Do the micro switches 'really' need to be soldered on? From looking at the other micro switch I can see.... looks like it's just clipped around the edges.... what location specifically would the solder go on? Is anyone able to share some insight please...
Lp
Clips are typically to hold the housing together. Soldering of the switch is reqd.
clubagreenie
15th November 2012, 10:53 PM
Main thing, whats the jaycar part no for the switch?
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