Hi Lift Jack lifting points on Puma

[GlennWA]

Hello all.

I have learnt so much these last few weeks on this forum it is amazing! I notice many people have a high lift jack horizontal across the rear bumper which looks like a fantastic mounting location and is on my list of Defender additions. Is there a specific mounting kit people are using?

Also does the standard Puma have any jacking points or locations where a high lift jack can be positioned? Or is it best to use straps through the hubs/wheels or items such as ARB's lift mate?

Cheers

Glenn

[marting]

Those mounts are made by Dolium. Google them to see their full product range. Plenty of good stuff for Defenders.
All the products are available through Opposite Lock Stores.
Cheers, Martin

[goingbush]

you can buy / make an adaptor for the high lift that uses the original LR jacking points

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1373.jpg

[gitney]

Hi Glenn,
U probly already know but the front jacking point are below the front bumper in line with the chasis rails. You just need to pull off the little rubber plugs. These are the round holes like in the back bumper so you still need the high lift jack adapter.
Cheers,
Chris

[Beckford]

I bought one of these adapters through the Mulgo Expedition Centre.

Buy 4x4 Land Rover Toyota Nissan Accessories and Parts Online | Web Store | Expedition Centre Australia by Mulgo (http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/)

[Loubrey]

Glenn,

That adaptor is an absolute must if you want to use a Hi-Lift jack, but keep in mind that its still very easy to do serious damage to yourself and your car if you're not familiar with a Hi-Lift... The easiest way to destroy your wheel arches is to use that wheel strap arrangement and the jack leaning into the lift or worse, slipping and pulling the top over.:eek:

I always find it rather amusing when you see a 200 Series Cruiser carrying a Hi-Lift without a single hard surface to lift on.

[Allan]

I bought one of these adapters through the Mulgo Expedition Centre.

Buy 4x4 Land Rover Toyota Nissan Accessories and Parts Online | Web Store | Expedition Centre Australia by Mulgo (http://www.expeditioncentre.com.au/)

Thanks for that, I've just ordered one from Mulgo:D.

Allan

[flagg]

Glenn,
I always find it rather amusing when you see a 200 Series Cruiser carrying a Hi-Lift without a single hard surface to lift on.

Yes, I always get a good laugh about this. And I see it so much! It's hilarious.

Also, remember that the jack can - and will - fall very easily to one side or the other. The risk of this is increased because 99% of defenders are jacked from the front or rear in the jack holes.. which means that it is more likely for both front or both rears to be lifted at the same time.. which IME means the thing will fall to one side or the other if you haven't double chocked both opposing tires.

Be very careful with hi-lifts, especially when you are jacking from the front or the rear.

[TimNZ]

I've really got to question the value of a High Lift Jack. I've had my one for about 8 years now and all I have really used it for is to move a chook shed. I don't like to use it to change tyres because of it's inherent instability, however I still carry it on a trip, (with the chain winching kit), "just in case". On some vehicles I see them fitted to it appears that they are there more as a statement than a tool.

Cheers,

[goingbush]

The inherent instability of the hilift comes in useful, plenty of times I've used it to jack the car up as high as i can & push it across . As stated not that safe for changing a wheel when used on the front or rear but its a ripper when jacking on the slider, something you probably can only do on a Defender without risk of damaging a door.

[GlennWA]

you can buy / make an adaptor for the high lift that uses the original LR jacking points


The original LR jacking points?? I had a quick look at the owners manual online and the only jacking points it refers to are under the axles for changing a tyre with a bottle jack. I don't have a Defender (...yet :)) and am researching my options so if someone can enlighten me on the original LR jacking points on a Puma it would be most appreciated.

Cheers

Glenn

[Summiitt]

If you look under the bumber on the front, there are 2 rubber blanks, pull these off and that's where the factory high lift goes, on the rear there are 2 holes on the rear crossmember. Interestingly, my 110 puma came with a factory high lift jack, but my 130 puma ute came with a hydraulic bottle jack?
I use my normal high lift quite often on the farm particularly when carting firewood, a set of maxtrax and a high lift and there's not much I can't get the landy out of.

[Didge]

The adaptors for defenders are generally $65. I made one from a solid bar and a piece of rectangular hollow section (100 x 50 x 3 wall thickness) that I squashed a bit in the vice and gave some encouragement with a cold chisel and hammer to fit the vertical flange under the hi lift tongue. Cost - $5 - half an hour including a bit of welding.

[Loubrey]

Well, calling the OEM jack a "Hi-Lift" is a little generous...:D

There seems to be no actual logic as to which one of the two jacks you end up with in your new Defender. The vast majority now is the bottle jack, but every now and then you find one with the old “180 Degree – Take you 7 years to jack” model fitted.

In Africa the inherent instability and pivot action of the round Hi-Lift adaptor is actually used in a recovery technique. On completely unmaintained roads over there, you find that the centre median between the two wheel tracks gets higher and higher as the road wears out and eventually it gets to the point where just about any axle will hang up. Recovering yourself you need to jack the car as high as you dare, and then deliberately push it sideways so the jack falls over to the side and your wheels end up on top of the median for the inside wheel and next to the road on the outside wheel.

This is however not for the faint hearted or inexperienced and not something to be tried without proper tuition...

Glenn,

Original LR jacking points - 3:10.

LROTV High Lift Jack Vs Air Jack - YouTube

[GlennWA]

Be very careful with hi-lifts, especially when you are jacking from the front or the rear.




This is however not for the faint hearted or inexperienced and not something to be tried without proper tuition...

Glenn,

Original LR jacking points - 3:10.

Thank you Loubrey for the informative video and also to others who have reinforced the dangers of High Lift Jacks. The video also includes warnings and an appropriate demonstration. Thanks

[DeanoH]

I've really got to question the value of a High Lift Jack. I've had my one for about 8 years now and all I have really used it for is to move a chook shed. I don't like to use it to change tyres because of it's inherent instability, however I still carry it on a trip, (with the chain winching kit), "just in case". On some vehicles I see them fitted to it appears that they are there more as a statement than a tool.

Cheers,

+1

I've carried one for years and have never really needed it. I put it in the same category as the 2nd spare wheel, supposedly useful to have but really just dead weight. Though Murphys Law says the minute I leave either behind I'll need both.:( I carry two bottle jacks, one short one long, which I reckon is a far more versatile (and safer) combination. I also have a winch for if I really get stuck.

Deano:)

[Tusker]

you can buy / make an adaptor for the high lift that uses the original LR jacking points

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/05/1373.jpg

I've never had much success with these.

It's rare in the bush that the vehicle is dead level. Anything off camber, forget it.

Even at home in perfect conditions, they jam. The hi-lift goes straight up. The vehicle gets raised in an arc. It must & will jam eventually.

The hilift can be used under parts of the bullbar, and are brilliant with rock sliders, if they are strong enough. I've also got reinforcing around the rear cross member, making use here easy.

A couple of other points:

- As a jack, they're a pain with long travel suspension. Bottle or trolley jacks are much easier.

- When they play up, it's not when lifting. It's releasing them, getting them down again that's the problem. They stick when at the top of the rack. WD40 beforehand helps, there are bags for the tongue, but the best insurance is - don't store them in the dust. That is, don't mount them to the rear cross member.

- Their load rating is when about 6" up. When 6" from the top, the load rating is only 10% or so of the stated rating. Believe me, when you see the rack bow under load, you get nervous.

- Replace the stupid top extension, if its not already lost, with a Jackmate.

BC4x4.COM four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad and fourwheeling site. (http://www.bc4x4.com/quick/2002/jackmate/)

Opposite Lock carry them I think. This really adds to the versatility of the hi lift.

Regards
Max P

[goingbush]

I've never had much success with these.

It's rare in the bush that the vehicle is dead level. Anything off camber, forget it.



Thats where the LR adaptor is great, The Jack won't slip off & its stuck in the hole & you can jack on any angle. even sideways




Even at home in perfect conditions, they jam. The hi-lift goes straight up. The vehicle gets raised in an arc. It must & will jam eventually.

News to me , never had it happen.



The hilift can be used under parts of the bullbar, and are brilliant with rock sliders, if they are strong enough. I've also got reinforcing around the rear cross member, making use here easy.

A couple of other points:

- As a jack, they're a pain with long travel suspension. Bottle or trolley jacks are much easier.

Agreed, If I can use a bottle jack I will, Much safer & usually easier




- When they play up, it's not when lifting. It's releasing them, getting them down again that's the problem. They stick when at the top of the rack. WD40 beforehand helps, there are bags for the tongue, but the best insurance is - don't store them in the dust. That is, don't mount them to the rear cross member.

Too Right, Can of WD40 is essential, they have to be lubed up to work & that attracts the dust & gums them up.



- Their load rating is when about 6" up. When 6" from the top, the load rating is only 10% or so of the stated rating. Believe me, when you see the rack bow under load, you get nervous.

Yes you don't want to jack too high, the higher you go the less stable.
Great if you want to jack the car up & push it over which I do frequently,
but Ive never seen the rack bow under load, you might have a chinese knock off jack


- Replace the stupid top extension, if its not already lost, with a Jackmate.

BC4x4.COM four wheel drive, 4x4, offroad and fourwheeling site. (http://www.bc4x4.com/quick/2002/jackmate/)

Opposite Lock carry them I think. This really adds to the versatility of the hi lift.

Regards
Max P

Sweet, nice bit of kit, think I'll fab one up. Got nothing better to do thisarvo, (no work when its raining)

The other thing wrong with the high lift if you store it vertical on the back of the car, the handle fills up with water & you get nice & wet the next time you swing the handle, Tip - drill a hole in the bottom of the handle.

[Tusker]

I won't post publicly some of the ridiculous situations we've recovered from with the hi lift, but there's one hint I forgot earlier:

The hi lift handle is ideal to sacrifice & use to sleeve a bent track rod. You'll never get it off again, but at least you can drive home carefully.

And don't whack the track rod on a rock or the eucalyptus anvil trying to straighten it. You'll end up with two kinks. Use the hi lift & drag chain to straighten it enough to accept the handle. Think cross bow, with the tongue right on the kink. It works, but takes some force. Again, not for the inexperienced.

Regards
Max P

[flagg]

I won't post publicly some of the ridiculous situations we've recovered from with the hi lift, but there's one hint I forgot earlier:

The hi lift handle is ideal to sacrifice & use to sleeve a bent track rod. You'll never get it off again, but at least you can drive home carefully.

And don't whack the track rod on a rock or the eucalyptus anvil trying to straighten it. You'll end up with two kinks. Use the hi lift & drag chain to straighten it enough to accept the handle. Think cross bow, with the tongue right on the kink. It works, but takes some force. Again, not for the inexperienced.

Regards
Max P

:eek::eek:

[goingbush]

And you reckon high lift jacks are dangerous
:wasntme:


http://www.defence.gov.au/news/armynews/editions/1110/images/15sayagainphotonov18.jpg